I take from your question that you are considering making one. I can't give you exact dimensions but I think the original Pakula Witchdoctors were made from a piece of 4x2 (100mm x 50mm) pine. 500mm long wouldn't be too far off the mark. There is no rocket science involved in making these so there is some leeway with respect to dimensions.
There is a little bit of science involved. Isn't as easy as cutting up some timber. You'll obviously need to test it over and over to ensure it's swimming correctly. You don't want the tow line around your prop if it's tracking to one side.
Over the years I've made 4 witchdoctor look alikes and never had a problem with either their action or them not tracking straight. The first two were made from 110mm x 40mm jarrah and the second two from 95mm x 45mm pine. I added weight by chiselling out a slot in the bottom edge about 150mm long x 12mm wide x 12mm deep and located approx. one third (from the front) along the bottom edge. Then pour about 6 oz (170g) of lead into the slot. Splay the ends or sides of the slot a bit and that will secure the lead in the timber. If I was to make any more I would try polished stainless steel as reflectors rather than mirrored perspex. The mirrored backing on the perspex does disintergrate over time even tho the edges are siliconed. If you were handy with a router you could make the perspex flush with the surface rather than face fix the reflectors as I did.
Alan James
Posts: 2206
Date Joined: 30/06/09
Witchdoctor
I take from your question that you are considering making one. I can't give you exact dimensions but I think the original Pakula Witchdoctors were made from a piece of 4x2 (100mm x 50mm) pine. 500mm long wouldn't be too far off the mark. There is no rocket science involved in making these so there is some leeway with respect to dimensions.
grayzeee
Posts: 2283
Date Joined: 09/07/09
525 x 95 x 45 with your 45
525 x 95 x 45 with your 45 deg angle at the end
If I spent half as long fishing , as I do reading this bloody forum , I'd be twice the fisherman I am.
DazSamFishing
Posts: 1518
Date Joined: 19/08/09
There is a little bit of
There is a little bit of science involved. Isn't as easy as cutting up some timber. You'll obviously need to test it over and over to ensure it's swimming correctly. You don't want the tow line around your prop if it's tracking to one side.
chookc
Posts: 442
Date Joined: 07/01/10
you'll also need to add some lead weight to the nose to get it t
that'll be the tricky one..
barneyboy
Posts: 1392
Date Joined: 08/01/09
trial and error my friend
I have seen them welded out of sheet aluminium and they worked very well
FEEEISH ONNN!!!
Alan James
Posts: 2206
Date Joined: 30/06/09
Adding weight
Over the years I've made 4 witchdoctor look alikes and never had a problem with either their action or them not tracking straight. The first two were made from 110mm x 40mm jarrah and the second two from 95mm x 45mm pine. I added weight by chiselling out a slot in the bottom edge about 150mm long x 12mm wide x 12mm deep and located approx. one third (from the front) along the bottom edge. Then pour about 6 oz (170g) of lead into the slot. Splay the ends or sides of the slot a bit and that will secure the lead in the timber. If I was to make any more I would try polished stainless steel as reflectors rather than mirrored perspex. The mirrored backing on the perspex does disintergrate over time even tho the edges are siliconed. If you were handy with a router you could make the perspex flush with the surface rather than face fix the reflectors as I did.