Hydrastar Actuator Install
HI Guys
Just chasing a bit of advice on a couple of issues before I get my trailer inspected. I have a Carribbean Reef Runner and a couple of weeks ago I was trying to work out what it weighed on the trailer. In the end I had it weighed and it came in at 2.25t all up full of fuel (225L) and the ususal crap that I carry. The Dunbier trailer it sits on is in pretty good nick but only rated for 2t.
I decided to upgrade the trailer so with a little help from the guys at Martins I have installed new springs and discs brakes. I bought a Hydrstar actuator a hydraline brake line kit which meant I didn't have to make up my own lines which was a bonus.
I have two issues though, I have been told you cant use plastic cable ties to secure brake lines to the axles. This means either using stainless steel ties, hose clamps, drilling into the axle to mount brackets, welding tags or something else. Having said that I have had a look at a heap of trailers in the last couple of weeks to check setups and I reckon the majority are using plastic ties to secure the lines to axles including brand new trailers on display in a couple of yards. I am going to give it ago and see what happens;
the other issue is the actuator install. The ones that I have seen all seem to have the brake fluid output value to the front of the trailer and the cabling to the rear. I cant find any info to suggest they cant be turned around I just havent seen anyone who has done it. The install instructions just say find a flat spot in a convenient position to run wires. They also say to avoid unnecessary bends in the brake lines and keep the distance as short as possible. I would have thought having the output at the back facing the brakes would have meet that criteria rather than the other way around. Does anyone know of any drop dead reason I shouldnt mount with the cabling at the front and the brake output at the back.
Thanks for any help.
Mick
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
Honestly do it right, do it
Honestly do it right, do it once.
Do your break line properly. I used P clips and riveted them in place. This was only along th axles as the rest was in the frame.
I put my Hydrastar with outlet to the back and wiring to the front. Works great there simple as to install your shouldnt have a problem. Anything specific PM and and i should be able to help. Don't forget your hotwire in the car to power the hydrastar!
I converted mine from US to AUS and took it over the pits, get the wrong guy and they will go over it and pick everything! Are all your lights correct? Clearance markers etc ?
Vinnie
mickconn
Posts: 47
Date Joined: 24/03/13
Cheers VinnieI have used
Cheers Vinnie
I have used riveted p clips all the way down the length of the trailer just wasnt keen on drilling into the axles. Dumb question maybe but can you rivet into a solid axle?? Just ali rivets?
Glad to hear there are no issues with brake output at the back, I had a mate make up a braket but it will be much easier facing the way I want it to. I am getting an auto sparky to wire it up and the controller in the car so that should be good. He has done a heap of these.
I think everything else is good lights, markers, tyres etc. Never know until I get there I guess.
Thanks again
Mick
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
I used Stainless riverts.
I used Stainless riverts. Went in fine
Look up the VSB it will tell you everything you need to know about trailers if you haven't already!
Rob H
Posts: 5745
Date Joined: 18/01/12
Why do you need to run
Why do you need to run across the axles, are you going down one side, to that brake set then across to the other side?
The correct way (practically speaking may not be noticable) is to run down each side of the chassis from a t piece at the the front, this avoids any bias of the brakes during activation.
A bias may cause a sway if fluid pressure reaches one brake set before the other rather than an equal length to each brake set, this is also what Brett Martin recommended to me.
Either way though Id definitely avoid drilling into the axle and use either the plastic or better SS ties if your setting it up that way.
May even find, if you get a real nazi inspector, that he fails it for drilling into the axle- quite unlikely but expensive if he does.
Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...
The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.
Everyone's just winging it.
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
Yeh but most kits come with
Yeh but most kits come with hoses that go across the axels. With rivets in the axels thats what the guys at freo trailers do so I doubt you would get pinged.
I wouldn't risk cable ties. Just go stainless at least
Rob H
Posts: 5745
Date Joined: 18/01/12
yeah no worries, Im about to
yeah no worries, Im about to knock up a new ally trailer chassis for my boat so thats good to know.
Did you use one of those flexi hose kits as well Vin? Looks easier than the hard lines I fitted on this trailer-what sort of cost?
Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...
The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.
Everyone's just winging it.
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
Didnt you just finish yours?
Didnt you just finish yours? Haha
Yeh I used, so easy! $150 for standard kit $250 for stainless braided.
Rob H
Posts: 5745
Date Joined: 18/01/12
I used the box section steel
I used the box section steel chassis, but not entirely happy with it so Im going to replace the whole chassis I think, just drop the new frame on the same suspension cradle.
Also swap to roller rather than skids
Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...
The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.
Everyone's just winging it.
mickconn
Posts: 47
Date Joined: 24/03/13
Thanks guysAppreciate the
Thanks guys
Appreciate the advice, yeah I did run down one side and go across the axles. Not having done this before I checked out as many trailers as I could to see how they did it. Unfortunately I have already installed the brake line kit so I reckon I will give it a go and see what happens. As I said the trailer is in pretty good nick otherwise and the job I've done looks a lot better than some of the others I have seen. Even if its not ideal hopefully it will be found to be roadworthy. Probably should have asked for advice before I went and did most of this but you live and learn, next time. If I get knocked back for the lines or anything else I will just fix it.
See what happens on Friday.
Cheers
Mick
Bluedog
Posts: 251
Date Joined: 28/07/11
Dont put it over the pit
Dont put it over the pit with cable ties holding any lines otherwise it will fail. I wasn't any the wiser and took mine over a couple months ago and failed. Also stick enough reflectors on to keep the inspector happy as well!
wagyl
Posts: 218
Date Joined: 08/03/09
Hydrastar unit
A suggestion, place the unit cables forward lines backwards as my trailer came supplied from new from the US. I had my hydrastar unit at the front on the trailer in front of the winch post. Pulled the boat out at low tide, shallow ramp, (long trailer) and hydrastar unit got wet and stuffed. Place it up the winch post a bit so it is further from the water. New units from the USA from hydrastar4u.com at about $600.
Sulo
Posts: 256
Date Joined: 13/08/11
Just threw my Hydrastar unit
Just threw my Hydrastar unit away and replaced it with a Brake Commander. I know it is too late for you Mickconn but for anyone else looking for a brake upgrade or repair they are well worth looking at. Easy install units with remote control so no in car controller required.
Rob H
Posts: 5745
Date Joined: 18/01/12
Thanks Sulo, had a look at
Thanks Sulo, had a look at that Brake Commander after seeing your post, they are a great unit!
Mine is already set up but my offsider onboard here is in the process of setting up a car trailer and after showing him this link this morning, has bought one.
$1320, including wireless controller etc. And NO wiring required on the tow vehicle as it draws power from the lighting circuit.
We did a rough tot up against buying a US actuator and the Brake Commander actually works out similar after you buy an actuator, breakaway, controller, cable, plugs and controller installation-plus its 1/4 of the work and uses a standard 3/4" master cylinder.
Definitely what I'd use if setting up another trailer!
Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...
The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.
Everyone's just winging it.
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
Makes sense. $1320 pretty
Makes sense. $1320 pretty good!
Rob H
Posts: 5745
Date Joined: 18/01/12
http://brakecommander.com/abo
http://brakecommander.com/about-brake-commander
Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...
The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.
Everyone's just winging it.
Sulo
Posts: 256
Date Joined: 13/08/11
I actually got mine from
I actually got mine from those great fellas at Martins and I think it cost me less than that... Other things to take into consideration with the Brake commander unit for good or for bad...
No Battery so when you hook up the boat you do have to wait for the capacitors to charge. I usually put the plug in first and by the time everything is hooked up it is ready to go. Also good that there is no battery to replace every year.
The hand brake function is automatically engaged. So when the capacitors are about to run out of power after disconnecting the boat, the hand brake automatically goes on. This is a great thing security and safety wise, however if someone just has to move the boat to get at something and the remote is not there or there is no pwer to the plug it will be stuck and there is no over ride or by pass function.
The best thing is that it is a single unit for both actuator and controller. I have been tunning it for about 8 months now and am still pretty impressed with it overall.
mickconn
Posts: 47
Date Joined: 24/03/13
Well had the trailer
Well had the trailer inspected this morning and that turned out to be more interesting than expected. I dug out my rego papers last night in preparation and noticed that the papers showed the trailer having a tare weight of 550kg and an all up weight of 2400kg??? Even though it didnt have anything but mechanical brakes and underrated suspension, the trailer VIN plate showed the tare as 440kg and the ATM/GTM as 2000kg. As it turns out I could have just done the work and not got it inspected!!
Regardless, in the interest of doing the right thing I went along to the inspection place and obviously this threw the guy inspecting a bit of a curve. He ended up calling Transport and in a short space of time I had four DoT inspectors checking it out. Not that it was an issue they were all pretty helpful and easy to get on with, even though a comment about the trailer being too small for the boat started to worry me a bit. Apparently this trailer was part of a bulk licencing job and it was never actually inspected by anyone. Someone had then used the wrong codes when putting the details in the system. The only issue I have to fix is to move a side clearance light from where the manufacturer (Dunbier) put it, so its actually on the side of the mudguard. Didn't really want to argue the toss when its a a small fix but my read of the requirements is that seeing just amber from the front is ok but not a biggy. Apart from that all good even with the cable ties.
Thanks for the help and advice.
Mick