Transom/floor replacement recommendations

 G'day gents, 

 

I've just purchased a Southwind 640 platinum SF and it turns out the transom and floor needs replacing. Can anyone recommend someone/a company that is trustworthy and can do this kind of job? I understand it's going to be fairly pricey.. but after what I spent on the boat, I'm committed now. Also, is there any way that the fibreglass shell has been effected? 

Located Mandurah, but happy to tow it to Perth for the right repairer.. I've already hoisted the motor off so it is ready to go. 

 

thanks in advance 

 

 


Posts: 546

Date Joined: 20/02/11

 Greg from GT Fibreglass.

Sun, 2016-11-06 07:41

 Greg from GT Fibreglass. He's in Wangara/Wanneroo but worth the drive. Spend the extra $ to have it foam filled while you've got the floor up. There's nothing like a bit of peace of mind.

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Mulie

Jackalchub's picture

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Date Joined: 10/03/12

 I like the idea of the foam,

Sun, 2016-11-06 09:31

 I like the idea of the foam, but in my case the foam has gotten wet somehow.. and never dried.. pretty unfortunate but someone has glassed over the rotten floor.. then put a glass floor in to cover it up and sell it! I'll get a quote from GT tomorrow.. thanks mate 

z00m's picture

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Date Joined: 10/05/14

Hull

Sun, 2016-11-06 07:44

If you're asking if the fibreglass hull has been affected, you would see it from the outside if it has been deformed by some broken structure. Also look for cracking on the underside of the hull. The fibreglass won't be affected by the waterlogged stringers/floor/transom. 

Jackalchub's picture

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 Good to know, the hull looks

Sun, 2016-11-06 09:32

 Good to know, the hull looks solid.. you can scrape the stringers out with your fingers though 

ranmar850's picture

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Date Joined: 12/08/12

That's a shame

Sun, 2016-11-06 13:47

 That is a nice looking rig. As others have said, the hull will be fine unless the weakness bought about by the lack of stringers and soft transom has put undue loading on it. This happens all the time with glass boats, the very worst part of owning them, IMO, as it can be hard to spot on initial inspection by the unwary. . If the replacement job is done correctly, it will be better than new and will last a lifetime. It only happens because of shortcuts by manufacturers, and will affect brands which some people will defend to the death.

z00m's picture

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Not just manufacturers

Sun, 2016-11-06 14:57

It's not just shortcuts in manufacturing - a lot of owners with no clue drill a hole or put in a screw without thinking they are letting water into their stucture. A screw or bolt is not watertight without some form of sealant. 

Jackalchub's picture

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Date Joined: 10/03/12

 After a few tough days,

Sun, 2016-11-06 15:48

 After a few tough days, that's what I needed to hear. Got it out a couple of times before I knew how bad it was and the ride was awesome. Just got to find the right person/place to get it done well. Any ideas of costing? 10k?

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Date Joined: 28/10/08

Swarbricks

Sun, 2016-11-06 14:03

 Swarbrick and Swarbrick Yachts in Sparks Rd, Henderson do  this sort of work all the time.  Highly recommended.  

ranmar850's picture

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Date Joined: 12/08/12

Yes, what z00m said

Sun, 2016-11-06 17:14

 Forgot to add that, perfectly well-built boats are undone by clueless owners or even some so-called professional installers. Just drill holes through, or sel-tappers in and bolt 'er up. or think they are being really high tech by sticking a bit of silastic/sikaflex in there.  

Jackalchub's picture

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Date Joined: 10/03/12

 So In this situation is

Mon, 2016-11-07 06:01

 So In this situation is resin the best way to seal? I'm inexperienced with glass boats, but I thought sika wasn't too bad? Once my transom is rebuilt I will have to drill/mount everything back on it 

z00m's picture

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Date Joined: 10/05/14

Resin is best

Mon, 2016-11-07 07:29

Yes, Resin is best for sealing up screws and bolts into a cored laminate.

There are some good products you can buy now that are 2 part and mix in the nozzle as they come out of the calking gun to make application easier. Mount everything up dry to start with and then go back, remove and add resin to the hole. Resin doesn't stick to metal very well so screws can generally be removed when required. Just be sure to clean any excess resin as you go because once it dries it has to be sanded off.

ranmar850's picture

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My input on what is a good sealant.

Tue, 2016-11-08 13:24

 I have been told by a wood and fibreglass boatbuilder of long experience that 24hr Araldite is the best sealant for any hole drilled through or into  marine ply. Drill holes slighly oversize, then smear it heavily through the hole, work it in to the laminate. Then smear a very light amount of a release agent , inox or CRC will do, on the bolt and fit it up. You can do away with the release agent, but You'll have a hell of a job getting that bolt out later.  Same holds for putting screws in. If you need to plug holes, use a hardwood dowel carefully shaped down to size, again the 24 hr araldite liberally on, then hammer home and cut off level. You can reduce the face a little later if you want a colour matching filler later, or hammer it below flush.

There are also other marine two pack fillers available which will do this, but he reckoned that just plain fibreglass resin isn;t the best thing for it, as it is a bit brittle. but it would certainly be better than sika.

Jackalchub's picture

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 Good info mate, thanks.

Tue, 2016-11-08 13:29

 Good info mate, thanks. Spoke to a boat builder today and he said resin struggles to really sink into the marine ply.. works a lot better with standard ply. Going to be a long road to get this boat back in business, huge range on so called quotes.. finding someone who wants to do the job is the hardest part 

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Date Joined: 09/10/06

 Im not sure if hes still in

Tue, 2016-11-08 17:25

 Im not sure if hes still in business. His website is still up but. Go see Paul at Northshore boats. Hes in Henderson 

chris raff's picture

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 Sorry to hear mate .. be

Tue, 2016-11-08 19:21

 Sorry to hear mate .. be spewing . What a scumbag the seller is intentionally covering up the issues and knowingly selling it in this condition . I presume the amount you paid was based on the fact the vessel was at least sea worthy . Therefore the sellers intent was to rip someone off and by doing so maliciously jeopardising you and your families safety .

 
If your of the opinion that this was the case , I’d be inclined to get a mouth piece to write up a letter outlining potential legal action and give the seller the opportunity to compensate you . If it was a licensed dealer who done the dodgy this thread would 3 pages long by now .  I know it’s buyer beware purchasing privately but if the intent of the seller was to sell a product knowing that it was unsafe then that puts a different spin on it IMO .  
 
I can also appreciate you most probably just want to move on , in that case at least invite the prick’s Mrs out for a coffee 
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Intelligence is like a four-wheel drive. It only allows you to get stuck in more remote places.”

Jackalchub's picture

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 Hey Chris, thanks.  Yeah

Tue, 2016-11-08 19:58

 Hey Chris, thanks. 

 

Yeah it's disappointing and surprising that he put a higher value on an extra few grand instead of our lives. He has received a letter.. and it will go further.. but I have to be fairly diplomatic at this stage and ultimately focus on getting it fixed/back on the water. In the meantime, His Mrs will receive daily texts. 

The_Wanderer's picture

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 Another vote for Paul at

Thu, 2016-11-10 14:29

 Another vote for Paul at northshore boats for the southern end of town and Greg in wangarra. One fishing mate has a nothrshore and its very well built and another mate has had repair done on his  Carribean by Greg. IF it was me I wouldnt hesitate to use these two.

On a side note did you get a hull inspection done prior to purchase?