Battery issue or Honda 200 issue???
just got a new 2018 Honda put on and decided to move the batteries up fed under the cab,
looka like in about a week and abit one of my batteries has died and won’t hold any load.
can kick it overnight just one 1 bat but switching over to 2 and nothing. Flick it back over and switch it to 1 and kick her over and then switch back to 2 and she charges and 13.4v the slowly oncrasss to 14v when the other batter charges at 14.8v ( good old Honda magneto). To me this sounds like I got a dead battery. Thought would be amazing. I’m running a BEP dual battery switch. Also since I have moved the batteries over and now my gauges are not indicating voltage and rpm on the digital nmea gauges and also engine temps and what not. Is there something I missed when wiring them up again?
Pic attached of how I have done it.
Scotte
Posts: 1145
Date Joined: 07/12/06
Your post is a little hard to
Your post is a little hard to read and understand so I'll try guess what your trying to say
You should only run it on 1 battery at a time and never switch that BEP switch while the engine is running .if your only running it on one battery at a time and the battery won't start the engine and your happy with all the battery wiring and terminals then I would remove that battery and test.
The wiring diagram you have drawn is correct.
When your saying that the guages aren't working do they turn on but no data or completely dead?
Also did you play with any of the nmea wiring as you mentioned that you rewired it
There is a fuse and a relay on the main nmea harness and is wired into the boats power.
Paul200990
Posts: 290
Date Joined: 22/05/19
Yeah battery diagram was
Yeah battery diagram was scratched up quail last night but all positives are going correctly to the isolator switch.
looked like the battery was a dud. Put it on the trickle charg last night and won’t hold load. Just goes down to 9v when starting off 2nd battery. Because I haven’t been around these Honda nmea gauges im
unsure when the gauges are suppose to read the voltage of the battery or the coolant temp and ect..
scubafish
Posts: 962
Date Joined: 15/08/12
thought you sorted
Did you not sort this out when you cut that cable before ?
outboard Poss + to common on switch, (Fused)
Outboard Neg - to batt 1 Neg - and batt 2 and buss bar (linked)
Batt 1 starting bat only. Poss +to batt 1 on switch
Batt 2 House Poss + to batt 2 on switch
VSR connects to Batt one and two on switch(dotted post on VSR to Batt 1 as per instillation diag).
Batt 2 Poss + Breakers switch.Then to buss Bar
NO NEG WIRES GO TO SWITCH 1&2 BOTH & OFF !!!! POSS + ONLY.!!!
When start batt 1 is full VSR will auto switch to batt 2 and charge (no need to turn batt switch to batt 2).
Sounder/radio/lights etc run off batt 2 (Bus bar )POSS +(all with separate fuses)
Batt switch goes to 2 only in emerg to start.
Start batt CCA to outboard specs.or dual AGM
House Batt 100 amp hr AGM
Buy a hydrometer from auto shop to check state of charge in your batt.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCjo65cPSkw
P.S Can wire 12v dig gauges on Dash 1 for Batt 1 and 1 for Batt 2 House.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-24V-Car-Marine-Motorcycle-LED-Digital-Voltage-Meter-Gauge-DC-Voltmeter/392127381092?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3Dbb693c2ae6644a8ab8c38c8f20c8fd21%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D202664958912%26itm%3D392127381092%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1
Batt one to Poss + too dash Tacho from Ignition and Neg to any - point.
Batt 2 ( House)Poss to buss bar Poss + and Neg - to any Neg -point.
http://img.gg/BQ91Sys