Coolant flush
Submitted by dakka on Wed, 2018-01-31 14:02
Howdy All
Any chance someone can let us know step by step on how to clean and flush the radiator and block and put new coolant properly with no air leaks please. Car is a hilux 3l turbo disel cheers
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"If we all fish for the future now there will be fish in the future"
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Rob H
Posts: 5745
Date Joined: 18/01/12
What year/motor? D4D or 1KZ?
What year/motor? D4D or 1KZ?
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dakka
Posts: 275
Date Joined: 05/03/06
RobIts a 1999 ln 167 i think
Rob
Its a 1999 ln 167 i think the motor is a 5L
"If we all fish for the future now there will be fish in the future"
Rob H
Posts: 5745
Date Joined: 18/01/12
5L is not turbo, nor is the
5L is not turbo, nor is the 167?
It might have a turbo on it but aftermarket, turbos in that range are the 1KZ-TE and KZN165 not LN167
Maybe check on the plate under bonnet so I dont give you a bum steer!
Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...
The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.
Everyone's just winging it.
dakka
Posts: 275
Date Joined: 05/03/06
RobYeah its an aftermarket
Rob
Yeah its an aftermarket turbo but its definitely a ln 167 with a 5l motor i added a picture of compliance plate to original thread m8 cheers
"If we all fish for the future now there will be fish in the future"
dakka
Posts: 275
Date Joined: 05/03/06
RobIts an aftermarket turbo
Rob
Its an aftermarket turbo but its definitely a ln167 with a 5l motor cheers
"If we all fish for the future now there will be fish in the future"
Rob H
Posts: 5745
Date Joined: 18/01/12
OK, why do you want to flush
OK, why do you want to flush the coolant? Because it is overheating?
Or just as its on the service sched?
And what are you putting in?
Best in a Toyota is the Toyota Extended Life Cooant which is 50/50 with distilled or demin water.
What mechanical experience do you have?
So there is a few differences between a 5L and my 1KZ, but somewhere under the intake manifold on the block infront of the starter motor there should be a drain bung.
Almost impossible to see let alone undo.
Open bottom bung on radiator and drain, open heater on full while doing this.
But you will only get maybe 2/3 out without opening block bung and maybe 3/4 or so if you do.
Can also remove lower radiator hose/fitting and (not sure with 5L) pull the thermostat out which is likely on the lower rh side where bottom radiator hose enters.
5L may be at the top where most cars have it.
Drain, close it up, fill with water, warm it up a bit, drain again.
When you add your coolant, there will still be an estimated 1-2L of water in the heater and block.
Run it for a little bit with cap off until warmish as some air will come thru and drop the level.
Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...
The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.
Everyone's just winging it.
dakka
Posts: 275
Date Joined: 05/03/06
Cheers Rob I am fairly
Cheers Rob
I am fairly cluey mech wise I have just given the old girl a birthday new oil and filter, new fuel filter new air filter, changed gearbox and transfer case oils, new aircon pulley belt new power steering belt I have but couldn't change the 2 alternator belts couldn't get alternator to move to get new belts on so just wanting to put new coolant aswell, I bought the new organic tectaloy coolant that has a 1 million kilometre before needing to change it cheers
"If we all fish for the future now there will be fish in the future"
Rob H
Posts: 5745
Date Joined: 18/01/12
Hopefully that coolant does
Hopefully that coolant does it for you but my experience (and general consensus) is the Toyota ELC is best by a long shot especially in cars prone to running hotter (turbo).
plus if your changing coolants it much more important to get old stuff out
V belts- you need to undo the clamping bolt, tensioning bolt and the swivel bolt (usually from underneath) and there is no reason it wouldn’t move.
personally I’d find why, as it’s easier to do in your driveway than on the beach or roadside 200km from home with a broken belt, missus and kids on a 40 deg day
Tip-I don’t know of any coolant that is documented to last “1 million km” in a commercial application without testing so I would extend the use much past the sched time personally
Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...
The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.
Everyone's just winging it.
bobdefitter
Posts: 13
Date Joined: 23/05/13
Rob H is correct by saying
Rob H is correct by saying genuine coolant is best.
When I purchased my D21 Nissan I changed all the fluids but was advised by a Chief Engineer who is also a mussel car enthusiast that with the after market coolant I used was likely to so more damage than good.
After this advice I changed the coolant to genuine Nissan.
Every 10000 the ph is checked with a litmus paper and if the ph has changed much from new the coolant is changed.
The ute is close to 29 years old and the aluminium cooling spaces that can be seen have no pitting and looks like anodised aluminium.
The thermostat housing is still the original.
dakka
Posts: 275
Date Joined: 05/03/06
Cheers
Cheers Rob
I will try the v belts again I think I only loosened 1 bolt on alternator that's probably why I couldn't move it not much room when you have big hands lol. And for the coolant I only seen the other week it was on a 4 wheel drive show they were promoting it I've added a photo of it thanks again for your help. Are you a mechanic by chance and can do this if so let us know m8 cheers
"If we all fish for the future now there will be fish in the future"
Marineboy
Posts: 839
Date Joined: 14/03/14
Coolant
tectaloy have been around for many years now and make a very good product so you can be confident in what you are going to use. I also like the genuine Toyota stuff but whatever you use do yourself a favour and use stuff that you don’t need to dilute with water.
My spots are so secret even the fish don't know about them !
Rob H
Posts: 5745
Date Joined: 18/01/12
Dakka, Im a heavy duty
Dakka, Im a heavy duty fitter/marine engineer
Marine boy, every mainstream coolant I know has water in it, whether its added before or after you buy it.
Ive tried the "waterless coolant" in my Hilux over a few weeks after replacing the head 18 months back and it didnt cut it, despite quite a few calls and advice, however to their credit they refunded immediately that I requested it.
I was very suprised when I checked the MSDS and labelling at what was actually in it, but I dont have a copy here so wont say more on that.
The Toyota stuff is 50/50 and you should use distilled or demineralised water.
Many of the earlier Toyotas such as Surfs Hiluxes Cruisers had/have trouble with running hot and general consensus is that the Toyota stuff runs better in them, its not the protection side.
If you dont have one, you should buy an Engine Guardian or Engine Watchdog, and you'll see how much your stock temp gauge moves while the actual temp is moving alot.
By the time your dash gauge moves, its pretty much at its limit
Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...
The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.
Everyone's just winging it.
shortfuse
Posts: 211
Date Joined: 02/01/12
Another one for genuine
Another one for genuine coolant heard too many stories from mates in the industry for me to risk it and as previously said if your determined to go with that other stuff be 100% sure it's all out. If you haven't opened the container take it back
Trimee
Posts: 100
Date Joined: 05/01/18
i worked in parts for a
i worked in parts for a number of years and wouldnt use tectaloy in anything, even more so on a toyota.
genuine stuff is best stuff to run, it is also the same as holden red coolant.