Drum winch installation.

This morning I began the journey of installing a drum winch. I have the "Stressfree mini NG", the name is wrong, its anything but stress free.
The first problem is where and how to mount it. The winch located in the anchor well OK room wise, but I decided the anchor well as it is, is not strong enough to take the weight of the boat at anchor say in a rough sea.
So I needed to strengthen it. I looked at using stainless RHS bolted about it, but decided that was too hard, and ugly. I then settled on beefing up the floor of the well with epoxy/glass.
According to the suppliers of the winch, I had to have a minimum of 45 degrees angle on the anchor rope to the winch for it to wind on the drum correctly.
This meant building up the floor of the anchor well about 40mm. I went and saw the girls at "Fiberglass & resin sales", and they advised me to use epoxy resin and plywood sandwiched layers.
I cut out triangles of marine ply, and layers of course weave glass cloth to suit. Because I brought ply that was only 6mm, I ended up with 5 layers of ply, and seven layers of cloth.
The girls emphasised temperature as a criticl factor, and as you know we then have had some blistering hot days.
This mornings w report was to be cool, so the wife and I got up at sparrow fart to begin.
I packed the inside of the bow area (under the anchor well) with ice, and also had a tray of ice to keep the mixed resin cool. Following the girls instructions (they also advised using ice to delay the curing), I wet the inside of the anchor well, previously ground down and cleaned, the first layer of mat, then thickened resin them a layer of pre coated ply. The operation went well, four more layers of ply and seven layers of cloth later.
Because the ply have warped a little, I have sat 5 bars of lead on the last layer.
Doing it this way, I have a large bonded area to the hull sides, and a ridged platform to sit the winch. This part of the operation went well, now I have the drain hole to finish off, and the bot holes for the winch to plug with resin as per the "West system" instructions.
After that its designing and making a suitable bow sprit.


Saulty2's picture

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Date Joined: 28/05/10

keep at it mate

Mon, 2014-01-27 09:18

sounds like you have the patience ,just hope after all that effort it all works well

Paul H's picture

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Date Joined: 18/01/07

Maybe a bit late for advice

Mon, 2014-01-27 10:10

Maybe a bit late for advice but I would have done the layers of ply outside the boat and then glassed it in afterwards (if I reading you correctly), just makes it a little easier as far as access (but can be done either way).

PS - don't worry about the ice - in hot weather just use slightly less catalyst/hardner. Did some fibre glassing on my boat just before New Years in 40 degree heat with no problems

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iana's picture

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Date Joined: 21/09/09

Thanks but!

Mon, 2014-01-27 10:43

The access opening to the anchor well was too small for me to do that, I had to cut each piece of ply in halves, or thirds, except for the first two, just to get them in.
The other point is that by taking the cloth up the sides of the well at each layer I was getting good strength.
I followed instructions, and the girls said 5/1 on the mix, the ice certainly gave me time, as soon as I removed the ice it went off.
Again the girls said, as soon as the epoxy started going off, I had to stop the job, and wait for it to harden, then regrind the surface and then continue. Apparently the epoxy has a wax that comes to the surface and has to be removed before further work, it was important that I complete the whole job in one hit for it to have max strength.

Paul H's picture

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Got you with not being able

Mon, 2014-01-27 12:58

Got you with not being able to fit it in afterwards.

From my understanding the development of wax depends on the quality of epoxy (and also something with use of additives - but I'm not well schooled or scientific enough to have a full handle on that) My understanding was that if it hasn't fully cured/hardened (still has some tackiness) a bond should still be made with any subsequent layer but once fully cured then yes will need a bit of a sand before adding another layer.

5/1 sounds like a lot of catalyst to me (sure you didn't mean 50/1) - I use around 2ml of catalyst per 100ml of resin on an average day (20-30 degrees) and around 1.5 per 100ml on hot days. Always had plenty of time to work with it (hardens in around 4 hours and fully cured overnight and ready for sanding the following day)

By all means follow the advice you were given.

Cheers

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iana's picture

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Date Joined: 21/09/09

Your using a different product.

Mon, 2014-01-27 13:31

What you are refering to is polyester resin, I used epoxy resin. Why, that was the advice given to me. Because of the ratio, its very easy to mix.

Paul H's picture

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could be right - my bad,

Mon, 2014-01-27 16:37

could be right - my bad, haven't got the tin here in front of me..

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kempy's picture

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Sounds like fun hahah we just

Mon, 2014-01-27 10:02

Sounds like fun hahah we just bolted ours on top of the deck.

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iana's picture

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Date Joined: 21/09/09

I wish.

Mon, 2014-01-27 10:48

That's where an alloy boat (or glass)with a decent bulkhead is the go. Also if the boat has a bow sprit that's made as part of the boat, now that's a dream.
But an anchor stuck out on a lever (the sprit) is going to put a lot of stress on the deck unless the mounting is designed so the load is distributed to strong points.

kempy's picture

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Yer its a bit hard when you

Mon, 2014-01-27 15:27

Yer its a bit hard when you dont have anything to secure to. This is ours fitted.

 

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Paul H's picture

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easier to see when the rope

Mon, 2014-01-27 16:39

easier to see when the rope misses the reel and free it at least..

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iana's picture

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Date Joined: 21/09/09

Apparently being able to see the rope on retrieve is the answer.

Mon, 2014-01-27 17:48

Kempy, that's cheating!, easy to maintain, no fuss. Is that boat a displacement hull!

kempy's picture

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Not sure what a displacement

Tue, 2014-01-28 07:05

Not sure what a displacement hull is.

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 A hull thats not designed to

Tue, 2014-01-28 07:16

 A hull thats not designed to plane, like trawler tug etc

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 Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...

 

 

The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

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kempy's picture

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na dont thinks its one of

Tue, 2014-01-28 08:14

na dont thinks its one of them hulls.

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spinksy's picture

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Date Joined: 06/10/10

With mine

Tue, 2014-01-28 07:33

I bolted it to the floor in the anchor well. The 45 degrees is the angle from the deck roller to the drum. Mine works fine.

seaurchin's picture

Posts: 6

Date Joined: 07/12/13

comtemplating winch too

Thu, 2014-02-06 10:40

 Hi,  good on ya doing it yourself! Sounds like you have done an awesome job! 

Mind posting some pics?  I'm contemplating an installation too but like you I'm constraint for space in the anchor well. It's a figlass cavalier.  

Jason P's picture

Posts: 521

Date Joined: 16/02/13

Winch Fitup Pictures

Thu, 2014-02-06 12:30

Some good pictures here for fitup ideas.

 

http://lonestarmarine.com.au/index.php?route=product/category&path=80

http://lonestarmarine.com.au/index.php?route=product/category&path=64

 

 

 

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 DM306

Posts: 38

Date Joined: 21/06/13

It's worth the effort. It's

Thu, 2014-02-06 11:56

It's worth the effort. It's costing me about $1000 to get fitted on my ali. I have needed some welding. $1000 will buy a lot of fishing gear

seaurchin's picture

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Date Joined: 07/12/13

Thanks

Thu, 2014-02-06 14:27

 Thanks for the link Jason