Suzuki DF90-115-140 exhaust issue

I love the Suzis on my boat, reliable smooth quiet despite pushing up to 600hrs. Ive serviced them religeously and checked compresssions etc.

But a couple of months ago while googling some service info for my pair of DF115's, I was pretty suprised to come across this

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/395845-suzuki-df140-engine-holder-corrosion-fix.html

and ALOT of other similar threads from both US and Aus. I hadnt heard about this before and was pretty suprised, but given the sort of use my boat gets (remote long trips with the kids etc) and being an engineer I decided to bit the bullet and have a look.

 

NOTE-the pics below that have a corrosion hole were borrowed off another website-the repair ones are mine.

Mine had plenty of meat there in both engines

Basically Suzuki designed the DF90/115/140 to have an O2 sensor fitted in the exhaust/engine holder casting but must have decided at the time it wasnt required. The hole was removed completely from these outboards around 2007 so is only an issue up to that date.

Interestingly the new "Lean Burn" Suzukis, is really just the addition of an O2 sensor (experts correct if Im wrong!)

One of the rare less smart Japs at the factory then decided to use up the seacontainer load of mild steel plugs to fill the hole.

The combination of hot exhaust gases, salt water and galvanic reaction then proceeds to corrode away the engine holder until it blows thru and burns the wiring loom which runs past that point. This brings up a 3:2 alarm code

I believe a faulty thermostat (causing cold combustion) increases the acidity of the exhaust gases also.

Anyhow, I found a mob in the US who makes aluminium plugs specifically to replace these and at about $15 each plus $10 post they were on my doorstep in 10 days.

I also ordered magnetic drain plugs for the gearboxes (should be standard in any machinery).

Couple of days back my flights to work were delayed for a day so I thought f++k it, lets do it.

Stb engine first, covers off, 8mm allen key socket-FK, no go. Loaded it til hex was buggered.

Opened port covers, same thing, but it came loose when forced to the limit. With some trepidation I looked in and was glad to see plenty of meat there.

Fitted the Goldplug then went back to the stb.

Out with the welder, and welded a bolt onto the plug.

It took a fair bit of force (18" bar) but came loose, quick internal inspection (phew all good in there) and fit the Goldplug

If the hole blows thru, a new engine holder is about $US1K plus about 6 hrs installation or it is possible to weld up the hole as quite a few have done but Im happy to have caught mine early sorted it.

 

When I get home in a month I'll have to take it for a test run to the islands 

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fishy fingers's picture

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i take it these pics are not yours or are they

Fri, 2014-07-25 20:09

 I have read the same Rob but I also read somewhere that the problem was with earlier models (mine is 2012) and suzuki had addresse the problem

 

whoops just commited the cardinal sin and not read the post properly...I see they are yours!!

gillyL's picture

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 hope so iam about to lash

Fri, 2014-07-25 20:10

 hope so iam about to lash out some coin on a 90

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Rob H's picture

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problem was fixed (no hole

Fri, 2014-07-25 20:29

problem was fixed (no hole there after 07) so no more issue.

Ive had a Yam F115 and these DF115's and they are both great motors-top engineering hence why I was so suprised to find such a stupid mistake by them.

Sorry should have said, couple of the photos with the corrosion hole in were robbed off the Hull Truth

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 Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...

 

 

The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

Everyone's just winging it.

 

fishy fingers's picture

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i thought so

Fri, 2014-07-25 20:34

!Iwas sure I had seen them before!

southcity104's picture

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Gday Rob

Fri, 2014-07-25 20:14

 Cheers for the heads up. A few months back I had a go at removing that plug. No love. Allen key to half inch socket then and extension to a strong bar. Might have to go your way with the welder. 

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Rob H's picture

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hey Tony, if you go with the

Fri, 2014-07-25 20:27

hey Tony, if you go with the welder, use a 1/2" bolt and 2mm rods. Pull the wiring loom/rubber seal well up out of the way.

But if you havent yet stripped the hex, start it up on the muffs so that area gets hot then use the allen key until it gives or hex strips (nothing to lose).

Worse case though is having to drill it out, very difficult to drill out a steel plug in aluminium

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 Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...

 

 

The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

Everyone's just winging it.

 

sea-kem's picture

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 Good heads up there Rob.

Fri, 2014-07-25 20:30

 Good heads up there Rob. Mine's a 2006 DF90 so in that range. Looks like another job to the list.

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Rob H's picture

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I probably should have jumped

Fri, 2014-07-25 20:33

I probably should have jumped on here to see if others wanted to get a package of the plugs, but thought Id buy them then have a look and flog them if ok-but then I just fitted them anyhow

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 Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...

 

 

The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

Everyone's just winging it.

 

wangler's picture

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Tried to get mine out about

Fri, 2014-07-25 20:43

a year ago with the 8mm allen key, but could not budge it. Might wait for Tony to have a go at his motor 1st before I try again

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Paul_86's picture

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 Question. I've got a 2006

Fri, 2014-07-25 21:12

 Question. I've got a 2006 DF70, which I have heard is the same as the DF90, just the 90 has a different computer/tricked up a little. Anyone know if that's true? If so then I better look into the problem as well.

cheers Paul

sea-kem's picture

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 Yep virtually same motor and

Fri, 2014-07-25 21:21

 Yep virtually same motor and weight Paul. I researched this for my project boat. Def worth looking into.

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Rob H's picture

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 not as far as I know-the

Fri, 2014-07-25 21:23

 not as far as I know-the 90-140 are I believe a separate family of engines as Ive never heard the 70 mentioned in the issue.

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 Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...

 

 

The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

Everyone's just winging it.

 

Paul_86's picture

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 Yeah pretty interesting,

Fri, 2014-07-25 21:34

 Yeah pretty interesting, everything I've read previously has said they are the same engine, but just got a bit "hands on" in the garage and it looked nothing like the photos. Maybe I've got the engine year wrong. It had the bottom plug you can see, but located lower down, and the top plug wasn't there at all, so thinking it must be a newer model.

Rob H's picture

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 the bottom plug is the

Fri, 2014-07-25 21:39

 the bottom plug is the flushing port and doesnt go into the exhaust, I think the guy who edited the pic got that part wrong (borrowed off Hulltruth).

 

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 Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...

 

 

The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

Everyone's just winging it.

 

big john's picture

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Nice

Fri, 2014-07-25 21:22

Nice work Rob.

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Gold plug

Fri, 2014-08-08 12:40

 Just had a look at mine, I have one but no corrosion and it looks like that plug on the rhs is steel too.  Not sure what that one is for but if has been opened before and there is a little big of surface rust on it where someone has used an Allen key

crasny1's picture

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No engineer Rob

Fri, 2014-08-08 13:26

But can you elaborate what that would do if there was a hole in the plug area like the top photo. I have a ETEC so not an issue for me, but the old man has Susie 115's on his boat in that vintage. Ill forward this to him with interest.

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Rob H's picture

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 hey Cras, Im out at sea just

Fri, 2014-08-08 20:52

 hey Cras, Im out at sea just now with a super slow internet, but if you jump onto the Hull Truth, quite a few guys have welded a plug in there.

Alternative is to buy the engine holder and fit ($1Kus plus about 6 hrs labour)

When I get better cover, I'll chuck up a link.

Remember its only a problem pre-07 or so.

The pictures above of the holy ones were "borrowed" off THT

 

EDIT-just read your question better 

What it does is, first up starts to fill the under cowl area with exhaust fumes which trigger poor running and an engine warning (3-2 from memory) for MAP or MAF sensor (manifold air flow/pressure)

Right next to that area is the engine wiring loom which burns thru after continued running. I believe if it happens at sea you can just remove the cowl to get home if the wiring is intact.

____________________________________________________________________________

 Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...

 

 

The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

Everyone's just winging it.