200+ motors
I was just having a conversation with a marine mechanic about why the old mans 09/10 200hp verado's batteries went flat the other week, when he started telling me about how "all new bigger motors are supposed to have a designated "starting battery", and that you are supposed to be switching batteries every time you start or cut off the motor". apparantly it is standard with all bigger motors, and that the motors are not supposed to be directly wired to an isolation switch, and would not be under warranty if they were.
has anyone heard of this???
its the first i have ever heard of it, and im not convinced it is true. if it were, it would mean i would have to change/switch batteries after every drift, which would be upwards of 50 times a day, on any standard drifting day.
I did question it, telling him its just not at all practical and that i dont know of any boat or person that does so, but his response was "yeah no-one knows how to use their batteries properly". i told him my '10 115 suzuki is not wired like that, and he replied saying its only the bigger motors that require it. i spoke of my mates 250 verado, which is by recolection not wired as he described, and he says it is wrong as well.
what do youse reckon???? does it sound right????
Rod P
Posts: 725
Date Joined: 20/05/08
The Verado does have a
The Verado does have a strange wiring system for battery's. I don't understand it myself but when the first two i had fitted in WA were installed we had to order a separate charge set up for the house bank.
They also require a particular battery type as well from memory.
reece
Posts: 522
Date Joined: 10/07/08
I think sum ones pissing
I think sum ones pissing down ya leg there mate. A mate of mine has twin 275s on a 38' center console and they are wired the same as a normal set up! He's got around 1200hrs on them with no electrical problems
Any one free to help me pull my drum lines tomorrow?
reece
Posts: 522
Date Joined: 10/07/08
I've also got a 250 yamaha
I've also got a 250 yamaha 4s on my boat an have never heard it. I run 3 batteries tho
Any one free to help me pull my drum lines tomorrow?
WADRay
Posts: 301
Date Joined: 20/12/09
You run from a little
You run from a little rain,
How about getting that beast down here so we can get some pinks :P
The_Wanderer
Posts: 735
Date Joined: 24/09/08
Yeah Rod your spot on we had
Yeah Rod your spot on we had all kinds of electical trouble with dads 235 conquest (through and australian Dealer) it resulted in the whole boat having to be rewired. in regards to batteries it was a minimum of 800CCA from memory.
Rod P
Posts: 725
Date Joined: 20/05/08
I think alot of it came down
I think alot of it came down to lack of knowledge by dealerships.
alfred
Posts: 3097
Date Joined: 12/01/07
The recommended setup for the
The recommended setup for the Verado is a separate starting battery and a house battery for everything else. Get a Blueseas voltage regulator with the starting battery isolator and you will have no more problems. Don't ask how I know.
Ben - minimum for Verados, according to the manual is 1000CCA.
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
That's interesting, i think
That's interesting, i think people are starting to go the way of VSR's with twin battery setups but most are still with a isolator and non dedicated starting battery. For peace of mind i just put 2 x Optima D31m's with there 900cca + 75ah.
carnarvonite
Posts: 8627
Date Joined: 24/07/07
Rescue boat
On the new rescue boat we run a separate battery for each engine plus another for the electronics. Had some trouble early on until we took our local sparky out and worked out some settings that didn't drag the electronics / house battery down
tim-o
Posts: 4657
Date Joined: 24/05/11
Shouldnt be much different to
Shouldnt be much different to that of a car or 4x4. A battery is only needed to start the engine, or to be used as a drain for accessorys when no engine is running, the charging system (alt or gen) should supply enough power to run everything (why you can disconnect batterys and the engine stays running) Keeping the batterys isolated just ensures you have optimum cranking power to start the engine. Isolating via a switch or soleniod is prehistoric. Voltage sensing units nowdays like rotronics and redarc etc will isolate the main starting battery from another to be used for things running when the engine is switched off (not charging) and use only the main battery to start the engine. The units then ensure the main battery gets priority charge before charging the aux battery once tge engine has been started. The output of the charging system determines the amount of draw that can be put on it before the batterys fail to get sufficient charge current. Biggest killer of batterys is vibration, thus gel batterys such as optima and oddesy last ages. Bigger boats with alot of hitech elect gear may have specific requirements, but in the end, you dont want to draw from a battery too much or at all that is to ve relyed upon to start the engines.
I am, as I've said, merely competent. But in an age of incompetence, that makes me extraordinary.