How do you tune your sounder

I am in the processing of upgrading from an old Furuno grayscale ls41oo sounder to a smicko Simrad nss7. In the past I have tuned the old Furuno according to instructions I was pointed towards on the internet.

Is this a fairly standard (accepted) way of tuner any sounder, despite their brand or capability? Will it work for the new Simrad?

This is how I have tuned the cheapo Furuno:

1) Turn off AUTO mode and select NORMAL or MANUAL on 200 kHz
2) Adjust the range scale so the bottom echo is in the bottom 2/3's of the screen
3) CLUTTER - off
4) SIGNAL LEVEL - off
5) GAIN - lowest
6) Increase GAIN until clutter appears
7) Increase CLUTTER until interference is all but cleared
8) Increase SIGNAL LEVEL to clear the light interference
9) Adjust the range / gain to suit changes in the depth.

What brand of sounder does everyone have and how do you tune it?

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Fish! HARD!


Paul H's picture

Posts: 2104

Date Joined: 18/01/07

Pretty well got it as far as

Sat, 2014-08-02 20:08

Pretty well got it as far as cranking it up and then backing off same applies with all/most sounders just a matter of the fine tuning to suit the conditions

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Youtube Channel  -  FishOnLine Productions

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Posts: 6454

Date Joined: 08/08/11

I am just reading the user

Sat, 2014-08-02 20:55

I am just reading the user manual on line and it seems I am going to have a choice of colour palettes.... makes a change from black grey and white.....

Is there any advantage of one colour palette over another, or is it just personal choice?

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Fish! HARD!

Posts: 6265

Date Joined: 26/04/14

mine hds 8 gen 2 has the same

Sat, 2014-08-02 21:03

mine hds 8 gen 2 has the same selection iam sure its just preference, changed the setting and it has made no difference but as long as you know what is what as in sand gravel reef youll be sweet

sstevee's picture

Posts: 466

Date Joined: 15/11/11

Black background on the

Sat, 2014-08-02 21:08

Black background on the furuno seems to be the go... Main reason i believe is because it is the only colour that is not used on the colour palate to identify fish (or any colour return)... So no colour is 'lost' in the background colour

JohnF's picture

Posts: 2836

Date Joined: 07/07/10

Under 150m, stick it in auto.

Sat, 2014-08-02 21:29

If your transducer installation is good, under 150m, stick it in auto.

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Boston Whaler 235 Conquest......getting the flogging it was built for.

sea-kem's picture

Posts: 14857

Date Joined: 30/11/09

 Why would you do that John

Sun, 2014-08-03 12:27

 Why would you do that John when you can fine tune them? The way mine's set up now after getting a huge heads up at Oceanside is a revelation. I only really fish the 30-40's and what I'm seeing now after manually setiing the unit up is incredible.

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Love the West!

RobertMc's picture

Posts: 326

Date Joined: 19/01/09

 I agree seakem, I haven't

Sun, 2014-08-03 16:45

 I agree seakem, I haven't been told by any particular courses but just messed around with it over time and googled it and eventually worked it out to where I'm happy with it, once you got the basics, it's all about spending the time to see what works for you.

JohnF's picture

Posts: 2836

Date Joined: 07/07/10

Yeah, I do the full manual

Sun, 2014-08-03 21:40

Yeah, I do the full manual tune when in deep water (+150m) and know the benefits but I seem to get pretty good results in auto in shallower stuff.

Your right, it may be a bit better with a manual tweak, but I don't usually take seasick tablets when in shallow water and looking down at the sounder can send me off a bit, so auto is good for me. In deep water, whole different story, catching fish is all about tweaking the sounder, gotta take sea sick tablets like smarties!

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Boston Whaler 235 Conquest......getting the flogging it was built for.