Johnson/Suzuki 90hp 4 stroke issue

Hi Guys,

i have a Johnson 4 stroke (suzuki dt90) which failed me yesterday.

we were 20nm off hillarys yesterday, went to start the engine, everything lights up but no ignition, not even a click.

all batteries have full charge, all fuses (external to outboard) ok. im 90% certain its an issue with the key barrel/kill switch. we ripped the whole thing apart trying everything to diagnose but no luck. (not that easy with sea sickness kicking in)

anyway called whitfords sea rescue and got picked up for the long tow home. legends

 

has anyone else had similar problems? im going to try more diagnostics today and if i cant get it sorted call a marine mechanic/electrician.

does anyone have any marine mechanics/sparkys that they recommend. i want to get the outboard service at the same time

 

regards

 

Nick
 


Gav475's picture

Posts: 397

Date Joined: 16/11/11

elimination

Sun, 2016-04-24 10:16

 mate that sucks when things break at sea but at least you got home safe. Problem definitely sounds electrical and maybe even a seized starter motor which is what happened to me, in my drive way thankfully.  If you are NOR give this bloke a call.  He is very good and doesnt rape you on price    Mick 0438903945

Stevo81's picture

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Date Joined: 16/04/12

 X2 for Mick at Marine

Tue, 2016-05-03 14:19

 X2 for Mick at Marine Masters. 

He's actually honest too which is rare as rockinghorse shit when it comes to Perth marine mechanics in my experience...

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Perry Home's picture

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Date Joined: 07/10/10

Could be as simple as

Sun, 2016-04-24 10:32

 The motor being slightly in gear.  It's worth moving the fwd control fwd then bringing it back to upright which should put the motor into neutral. Yeah I know it sounds silly but whilst occupied fishing thinking of the next spot etc the simplest matters can catch us out.  Give it a test in the driveway. . Can't hurt. 

Posts: 5797

Date Joined: 18/01/12

Once again, start at the

Sun, 2016-04-24 11:46

Once again, start at the simplest stuff.
As Perry says, try the start in gear lockout and also the kill switch (as you have) by bypassing it.
A cheap multimeter ($15 at Bunnings) is worth gold at times like this.

You can go straight to the starter motor and see if it;

A-has 12V at the main terminals

B-is getting a start signal on the smaller control wire.
If it isnt getting a signal to start then it is relatively easy to bridge the main positive terminal to the trigger wire and crank it if (as you say) everything else is lit up.
 

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The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

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Posts: 56

Date Joined: 07/07/15

 its definitely not the start

Sun, 2016-04-24 12:10

 its definitely not the start in gear lockout.

im about 90% sure its the neutral safety switch. just sourcing a wiring diagram for the ingition barrel to see which cable to bridge out to test it

Posts: 5797

Date Joined: 18/01/12

 the neutral safety switch is

Sun, 2016-04-24 12:16

 the neutral safety switch is the start in gear lockout...

Think you mean the dead man switch?

Difference between the 2 electrically is that the neutral cutout switch will allow the engine to run but not start if triggered, the deadman switch will also kill the engine if running

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 Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...

 

 

The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

Everyone's just winging it.

 

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Date Joined: 08/10/13

 Is there any plugs or bullet

Mon, 2016-04-25 07:55

 Is there any plugs or bullet connectors between the controller and the motor. I had a similar problem last year and it turned out to be green corrosion in a sealed bullet connector.  Ive been fishing in a boat with a new suzuki the last week and it has a different way of starting. You only briefly turn the key and it starts ,like new cars. So it may be electronically controlled not like an old ignition system.  Id turn the key to on and put a wire straight from the battery to the strarter solenoid and see if it starts.

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Date Joined: 18/01/12

shouldnt need to.Just go

Mon, 2016-04-25 08:01

shouldnt need to.
Just go straight from the positive terminal on the starter to the solenoid and an inch away.

____________________________________________________________________________

 Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...

 

 

The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

Everyone's just winging it.

 

Posts: 56

Date Joined: 07/07/15

 as soon as it stops pissing

Mon, 2016-04-25 11:37

 as soon as it stops pissing down with rain ill try all this. 

Rob H: yes i did mean the lanyard switch instead of the start in gear lockout. im assuming there is some sort of contact inside the barrel when you push in the key and lock it in with the lanyard it makes contact.

when we were out there and i tried to start it i knocked the lanyard off. i clipped it back in then after that nothing. that what makes me think its that contact.

ill keep you guys posted.

Posts: 56

Date Joined: 07/07/15

 righto had a bit of a look

Tue, 2016-05-03 11:11

 righto had a bit of a look again on the weekend: my engine is not a DT90 but a DF90 (full electronic ignition and control)

when key switched to on fule pump primes. self diagnostics runs and all warning lights go off like they should

when key switched to start fuel pump primes again, but nothing else

put power direct to starter motor, thats fine

both batteries over 13v

bridged out in gear safety switch

i checked the key barrel and it does whats its meant to do according to this diagram https://www.google.com.au/search?q=brp+outboard+key+barrel+wiring&espv=2&biw=1920&bih=955&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiGmuab9rzMAhVlYKYKHa0lARQQ_AUIBigB#imgrc=eP23yaHwTfgiPM%3A

note: i do have an evinrude/brp key barrel and throttle (suzuki made the outboard, but its rebadged as a johnno.

 

can anyone tell me with those evinrude/brp key barrel as shown in this pic: https://www.google.com.au/search?q=brp+outboard+key+barrel+wiring&espv=2&biw=1920&bih=955&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiGmuab9rzMAhVlYKYKHa0lARQQ_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=evinrude+brp+key+barrel&imgrc=ROg6A-DEDtKR_M%3A

does the outboard turn over when the lanyard is pulled? or is it completely dead?

cheers 

Posts: 5797

Date Joined: 18/01/12

 DT is 2 stroke, DF 4

Tue, 2016-05-03 11:24

 DT is 2 stroke, DF 4 stroke

just checked mine.
With lanyard pulled is neither primes nor cranks.
When you say "put power direct to starter motor, thats fine" what do you mean?
To the trigger wire or main terminals? it cranked and started, or it just cranked?

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 Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...

 

 

The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

Everyone's just winging it.

 

Posts: 56

Date Joined: 07/07/15

 SHE LIVES!ok had a spare

Tue, 2016-05-03 18:29

 SHE LIVES!

ok had a spare keybarrel to test with no luck.

pulled the cover off the outboard again for another look. pulled out the computer module to retape some wires up. noticed 2 relays with rubber covers that are stuck in behind the computer.

one cover looked slightly crooked. and i mean ever so slightly! turns out it was that harness slightly pulled out of the relay. pushed it back on properly and now fixed them on with cable ties and she fired right up.

just complete bad luck for it to finally loose contact between 2 drifts out there. it must have slightly loosened over a long period of time.

thanks all for your help. always good to learn more about your motor.

 

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Date Joined: 18/01/12

 Handy to know, I might check

Tue, 2016-05-03 19:57

 Handy to know, I might check my two Suzis!
Thanks for posting up the result

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 Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...

 

 

The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

Everyone's just winging it.

 

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Date Joined: 13/08/11

I have the 140's and have

Wed, 2016-05-04 08:51

I have the 140's and have replaced the neutral switches as the threaded ends had just reached the end of their life and split away from the casing. it was still in one piece so hard to spot while on the water. It is under the cowling and is in amongst the control cables, it is worth finding and checking as it seems they deteriorate with age and then fall apart and give exactly the symptoms you have described.

I am presuming the 90's have the same system as the 140.

Hopefully you have the issue sorted, but if it happens again check here next as you may have just moved the wires enough to keep it working for a few more starts.