Ebay mate. Couple of bucks for a silicone coated 5m strip.

I used it as my shed lighting as I don't have it wired. Lights up a 6m x 4m shed well enough for me to do work.

 if ally, just be cautious of any current through the hull if you are going to direct stick the strips.

they are great, but corrode pretty quickly and could then possibly provide current to the hull and potentially electrolysis issues from any foreign bodies in the floor?

I'm sure there are others out there with a better idea on this than me but something to consider.

cheers

brett

 of Australia, so you dont need to wait 6 weeks, and get a better product..

 I used a 3m strip of white LEDs for my rear Fuel tank well and guled them in with rubber carpet glue, that you put on both sides, let dry, and then push into position.. tape with masking tape for extra overnight drying time.

Remember the strips do not bend well linearly, so test the position first.

The lights work really well at night shining downwards to the floor, and not stuffing up your night vision that way.

My boat was fiberglass. remember not to put the switch or connections anywhere near the fuel vapour mate.

 ..on the ends and connectors gel heatshrink and siliconed over that too - it is under the gunwales, so easily done like this for waterproofing.. if you will see the joint, silicone and Insulation tape will do.

 Yep like most people have said, if you can pick the LED light strips off ebay. If you have a look around some even have glue on the back which makes installing them really easy. I dont know how everyone else wired theres up, but trying to soldering those connections was a pain in the arse - much easier to use "LED strip light connectors" Just make sure all connections are waterproof as things will corrode very quickly. The white LED strips are really bright, personaly a little to bright for early mornings so I installed two stips, white and blue. The blue is nowhere near as bright which makes things a lot easier on the eyes first thing in the morning.

 

 

I was planning on installing mine up under the gunwales so that you can't see them directly but you will get filtered light from them. I was also going to run lights inside my cuddy cabin the same i.e. filtered light off the same swtich as I assumed that I would always have both sets of light on at the same time or should I seperate all my lights onto individual switches? I'd have to buy another swtich panel but was thinking of running my all round and nav lights off a three way switch that allows me to run my all round light alone when anchored or with my nav lights when moving.

I bought my boat in August 2014 and the first thing I did was buy a 5 metre roll of RGB strip light, a remote control that lets you change colours/effects, "Y" connector to run to both sides under the gunnels (you can cut the strips in specific places without screwing up the lights) and a 1M extension connector for the port side as I installed the controller on the starboard side under the dash. All for.... $35 including shipping which was done the day after I placed the order!

Took about 30 minutes to install. Didn't have heatshrink tube on me at the time and its a glass boat so I just used electrical tape to protect each connector. I already had other cabling running along under my gunnels so i just taped the strips to those cables every metre. After 18 months now it's working fine. I just wish I had a photo to show.

 For all my electrical connections I solder the wires then spray some of that battery terminal protector stuff ( usually a thick brown coating that doesn't set) on the join then use shrink wrap over the joint.... I find this gives a waterproof seal and have not had a problem with any of my joins.

I avoid using any crimp connectors anywhere except under the dash where the wires connect to the switches which I also spray with the battery protector spray.

Electrical tape can hold moisture so I don't like using that either and prefer to use the shrink wrap and spray and cable ties to hold the wiring up and out of the way.