Voyager Fisherman project
Hi guys
Well its time to look at refurbishing my Voyager Fisherman.. The Valma J.. original owner named her after his Mrs. Yeah its brown hull with a cream top... may be call her "Top Deck" after this in reference to the color combo after the job is finished.
Can any of the Bunno members (or anyone else in the know) provide me with contact details for people who do fibreglass work in Bunbury?. I've been in touch with Todd from Epic Restos in Mandurah and he'll get to look at the boat when I can T up a time to see him. I used to get Kerry Bryant to do any work but he's now in full retirement. Thanks in advance for your help and responses. Happy to travel to a business if not in the greater Bunbury region so please don't discount you're recommendations just coz of where I'm located. 
lame
Posts: 315
Date Joined: 20/01/10
cant quiet renember but from
cant quiet renember but from a rough very memory either think was Bellglass used to build the pacemakers or something ???? or maybe was bunbury fibreglass in picton some reason bellglass rings a bell
crano
Posts: 702
Date Joined: 04/11/09
Peter blowfield
Peter was building boats with jim from bell fire based on a pacemaker mould.Peter did build pacemaker boats a long time ago.Not sure if he still works.
He was one of three blokes who started millard marine
Jaggo
Posts: 206
Date Joined: 06/05/14
Southwest shipwrights in
Southwest shipwrights in casuarina boat harbour in one of the sheds there. Only bloke left in Bunno that does all the yachts and stuff in the harbour
Patto 1
Posts: 371
Date Joined: 02/12/10
Busselton shipwright and from
Busselton shipwright and from what i have heard does a quality job
null
Moking
Posts: 1252
Date Joined: 30/05/12
Always liked the Voyager.
Always liked the Voyager. Mk111 was my first boat.
And I still love those classic Aunger deep dish Mags! Will be interesting to see the after pic's when you have finished.
My Dad taught me how to Fish-Thanks Dad.(RIP)
Red Dog
Posts: 311
Date Joined: 13/12/12
Still looks to be in pretty
Still looks to be in pretty good overall shape.
It's great watching on as these projects progress.
Perry Home
Posts: 434
Date Joined: 07/10/10
Thanks everyone for your advice and contents re the boat.
Yeah
She's in reasonable nick but just getting to the age of benefiting from something being done to prolong the hull and boats integrity before it goes beyond either saving or becomes a massive cost blow out that is hard to substantiate financially. I'll be doing the usual prep myself with respect to removing hull and deck hardware and some of the early hull prep. .. sanding before handing over to the professional for them to get the top quality finish. I guess the next ? is gunwhale to waterline color change for the hull... I seriously doubt that it'll remain brown... but then what color. I think red is off the list too. Maybe black, dark blue , or the cottage cream that is the topdeck already there. Eventually a Targa top that you can stand under and rocket launcher will be added replacing the current shade cover.
Comrad
Posts: 109
Date Joined: 17/07/14
If you're looking to get work
If you're looking to get work done with regards to the canopy, I highly recommend Marindi fabrications. I have a plate ally boat, and got them to make a free standing canopy and rocket laucher recently, as well as extendng out my battery housing, and making an additional modification to my transom for mounting a bait board. They did a fantastic job, and were really very reasonably priced
It was initially my plan to get aluminium framework made up, and then get a canvas over the top of the framing, and clears on the front and sides. After marindi had made the frame, I took it to the canvas places, and was quoted $1000 to stretch some canvas over a 6 foot area. So, I called up Marindi and asked how much to get a hard top made from 2mm aluminium plate, and it was only $770. Obviously I went with the hard top given how much stronger, wear resistant, and not suspecible to water and sun damage like canvas, plus is was more than $200 cheaper...
Perry Home
Posts: 434
Date Joined: 07/10/10
Comrad
Thanks very much for the heads up re Marindi. Yeah those guys have been around here for sometime so they must know their biz. Can you post a pic of yr hardtop to share. Once again yr input is most appreciated.
Comrad
Posts: 109
Date Joined: 17/07/14
Hi Bud, I don't have a photo
Hi Bud,
I don't have a photo bucket account or anything, so I don't know how to attach pictures in the middle of a thread, but I can send you photo's somehow, maybe?
Nath79
Posts: 15
Date Joined: 03/06/15
Fiberglassers
dave from sw ship rites is great dose very professional job an has heaps exp used him a while back to do sml cuddly an dash repaint top decks on my 5 Mir guardian
awsome job an gave me a few tips help to
Perry Home
Posts: 434
Date Joined: 07/10/10
Nath
Thank you... your explanation and info is worth is weight. . Much appreciated. Pez
Willlo
Posts: 1490
Date Joined: 07/10/11
As the fellas said above
As the fellas said above perry check out bell fire in picton they helped me out last year
Call Sign - BZ785
Haynes Hunter Prowler CC
Perry Home
Posts: 434
Date Joined: 07/10/10
Willo
Cheers mate. .. what work did you have done to yr Haines?
Willlo
Posts: 1490
Date Joined: 07/10/11
hey Perry i cut the cab in
hey Perry i cut the cab in half to turn it into a true centre console, did the work myself but the guy's down there sold me a few coffee jars of topcoat so i could finish off. They have a good set up down there worth a look for sure. Ask if the fellow down there can't remember his name can show you the pacemaker he converted to a centre console
Call Sign - BZ785
Haynes Hunter Prowler CC
ranmar850
Posts: 2702
Date Joined: 12/08/12
if there is any rot..
There is really nothing you can do once the rot has started. Keeping the boat dry stored, leaving the lower hull bungs out to encourage drying, it can all help, but, once that timber/ply under the glass has soaked up, it's only a matter of time. very much a raffle with older boats--it will all depend on
a) How conscientious the original builder was, whether he used marine ply or structural (or worse) ply for the floors and transom, and how well he sealed it all up, and
b) how many holes have been drilled, particularly in the transom and how well they were sealed.
Is the floor ABSOLUTELY solid? Does brown water come out of the lower hull drain? (sign of rot in timer) If you drill a hole in the transon, does the wood come out nice and dry and light coloured, or is it black and soft?
The point I am making is that you either do it all, hull-wise, or don't do anything. Apart from obvious stuff like canopies and their frames, fittings, steering,etc. You could get a full re-finish job on the outside, and then, if you have to replace the transom, you will only have a colour mismatch across the back. I certainly woouldn't be getting a full cosmetic job on an old glass hull without doing the deck, stringers and transom first. A cosmetic job on the outside won't help with what may be going on where you can't see it--this isnt like getting a car repainted to head off rust which may have started, different scenario altogether.
If it is just dullness of the finish, that can be cut back to a certain extent. I'm doing that with my old glass hull at the moment, coming up well, but a lot of elbow grease.
Perry Home
Posts: 434
Date Joined: 07/10/10
Thanks Ranmar
Good comments and yeah I'm hearing you loud and clear. I'm not gonna throw good money away. She will be done properly...old school,..to use the cliche.. it's not about the cosmetics but refurbing the WHOLE BOAT to be a boat I'm happy to own and feel safe and comfortable to use.... Using some quality tech on her too.. JRC FF50 sounder and Raymarine C90W for Gps... it had always amazed me when you see and awesome boat then a low tech sounder that becomes a limitation
Voyager Fishermen don't turn up everyday. . They are relatively rare with lots of deck space and of course the beautiful ride that Voyagers were renown for. It took me the best part of 3 years to find this boat and I've seen two for sale since owning her for the last 3 yrs... one of them was in SA. I concur re transom. .. keel. .. stringers... everything needing to be renewed or repaired will be done so to the highest order that I can afford. So it may be a slow process. .. I'll be saving up to pay for the work and paying with folding notes... no rush though usually you find useful things along the journey. Really appreciate all comments provided fellas and happy v to share a pictorial essay of her transformation.
Moking
Posts: 1252
Date Joined: 30/05/12
Just had a look at a few
Just had a look at a few that are For Sale after your comment- geez they hold there value!
This one in Busselton For Sale at close to twenty grand:
http://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/power-boats/voyager-half-cabin-voyager-fisherman-always-bringing-home-the-fish/174735
My Dad taught me how to Fish-Thanks Dad.(RIP)
bradz
Posts: 693
Date Joined: 29/10/07
Asking price
Yep, he might be asking that price but I would bet he doesnt get it.
Nothing wrong with the boat, just a bit steep on the price point I reckon.
I did then the best that I knew how. When I knew better, I did better.
kirky79
Posts: 1354
Date Joined: 13/01/12
Is that a paper sounder in
Is that a paper sounder in that one for sale?
Ashen
Posts: 1042
Date Joined: 22/03/13
Voyager FTW!!! Correct me if
Voyager FTW!!!
Correct me if Im wrong, but the Fisherman is the same as the LTD but smaller cabin/slighter bigger deck yeah?
Yes, Voyager rides quite nice on the water but comparing my old LTD to my current Penguin Huntress, the huntress does better in swells. Voyagers are still my favourite boat though!
A fish in the hand is worth 10 in the water!
Perry Home
Posts: 434
Date Joined: 07/10/10
Good Call Kirky
Nice pick up Kirky... that certainly looks like an operational paper sounder flanked by a couple of smaller screens. Boat condition looks pretty damn good but it's surprising how much a photo doesn't show... my tub looks ok too for example but the coat is really quite faded and even after some hours of work using dulon it didn't come back to what I was hoping it would. Thanks everyone for your thoughts and opinions. .. very much appreciated and as the refurbishment takes place I'll keep fellow FW contributors /watchers entertained.
Perry Home
Posts: 434
Date Joined: 07/10/10
Ashen
Same as the LTD mate but due to the extra space and limited numbers made quite a bit rarer to come across. Still a soft ride as the LTD is with no Half cab = extra fishing space. Glad you like em too!
ranmar850
Posts: 2702
Date Joined: 12/08/12
Good on you.
Older glass boats can be given a completely new lease of life, as I'm sure you would know by now from your research. The only limitation is that you can end up spending far more than the finished boat is worth in the short term, but, if you really mean to keep it long term, go for it and just keep upgrading motors when necessary and electronics when you feel the need.
I mentioned I was doing a bit of a tidy on the cosmetics on the Dominator --the finish is a bit oxidised, particularly on the blue stripe around the coaming. I polished it with some fibreglass polish which was supposed to be the go back when I first got it Jan last year, but still not happy. So I took to it with wet rubbing paper, 1000 grade, then polish, and it came up well. So well that I really need to do all the cab with it, not just around the sides. Lot of work, but worth it, if the flowcoat top finish is thick enough.
Perry Home
Posts: 434
Date Joined: 07/10/10
Gold Ranmar
That's something I haven't tried as yet. Thanks Ill give it a go. Always felt that the surface I was putting the dulon on was limiting the effectiveness of the Polish. Sort of like a thin film... I guess that's what oxidation is. It's easy to be impatient and rush it after being frustrated with applying the said process and it looking good for a brief time then reverting back to its original state. It'll be interestng to hear what the glass guys say... no doubt they've seen it all before many times. I had contemplated the vinyl wrap but concerned re durability and damage to the wrap which would be aesthetically terrible.. and I'm just the bloke to have it done looking finished only to discover an issue.
Thanks for the rub back tip and paper grit size too.
ranmar850
Posts: 2702
Date Joined: 12/08/12
I bought some cutting compound today to try
Something I can machine apply to large areas like the front of the cab. I'll try a small area, then do a bit with the wet rub and polish process, then compare. Will report back, I still think the wet rub will give the best result.
Dale
Posts: 7930
Date Joined: 13/09/05
I had a Voyager Marque with a 150 Black Max Merc on the back as my first boat and that was a great boat.
"Just because you are a Character, Doesn't mean you have Character."
Mr Wolf
ranmar850
Posts: 2702
Date Joined: 12/08/12
Tried the cutting compound vs wet rubbing
Did comparison patches on the front of the cab. Wet rubbing with 800/1200 definitely better. Cutting compound just put a gloss over the fading. The rubbing didn't really take long, and i then used 3M fibreglass restoration polish, as I have done with the rest of the boat. Getting a new Lexan windscreen fitted some time in the next few days.
abrohlosorbust
Posts: 99
Date Joined: 08/06/12
Any photos
Also interested in doing the same thing to an older model haines... Heard the wet rubbing method to be better but it obviously is a noticeable difference.
Where abouts you getting the Lexan screen from?
Getting wet is part of the Fun
Boston Whaler 235 Conquest
Perry Home
Posts: 434
Date Joined: 07/10/10
Hey Ranmar
Nice work mate. . Can you flick me some pix of the difference between pre rub down/post rib down and finish with the resto polish. Or what the old looks like in comparison to the rub back and untouched and then the Polish applied Sheff . B n F shots really. My phone number is 0419923191. Thanks mate. . Interested to see the difference.
Stevo81
Posts: 1278
Date Joined: 16/04/12
For heavy oxidisation a
For heavy oxidisation a rotary polisher, wool pad and quality compound is what you need to use. It's a 3 step process. Compound, polish then wax to protect.
If that doesn't work work (severely oxidised), 4 step. Wet sand, compound, Polish and wax. You will be surprised what a rotary polisher and wool pad will bring back.
Start with the least aggressive (compound) if you can and then move up to wetsand as a last resort. You want to remove as little gelcoat as possible to achieve desired result.
heres some good info
www.fiberglassics.com/RESTORATION/RESTORING-GEL-COAT
www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/52772-tips-compound-polish-wax.html
•••••••• Electrical Contractor NOR ••••••••
ranmar850
Posts: 2702
Date Joined: 12/08/12
Everyone, read the above link.
I looked at the top link in Stevo81 's post, it explains everything I have been trying to work out for myself, especially with regards to why my rotary buffer has been giving me inconsistent results. I haven't had time to look at the second link yet.
Lexan is being cut from a sheet, local glazier bought a full sheet to do two boats up here at once.
edit--Perry Home, sms sent with photo.
Perry Home
Posts: 434
Date Joined: 07/10/10
Hey Stevo and Ranmar
Thanks you blokes. . Absolute Champs!
Like many of us i don't mind spending the money to make the repairs that need making to bringing the ol girl back to something to be proud about. Both of you have really stepped up with awesome advice that's got me rating to get into it. Super appreciated fellas. Now cmon weekend hurry up so we can get started.