Assuming that your trailer has brakes, give them a quick check and make sure that moving parts are still moving. I would suggest that you loosen/lube/retighten your wheel nuts (so if you have a blow out, you are not stuck on the side of the road with a rude wheel nut that just wont budge. Check the nuts on your boat supports and check u/bolts holding springs to axle.

Have a good trip, mate.

...jack your trailer wheels off the ground, grab opposite sides of each tyre, and give it a wiggle. There should be virtually no movement...if there is, needs new bearings. Take a spare set or two with you, as well!

 Pm sent

I always carry a spare hub with bearings and seal installed ready to go, spare hub nut, cap and split pin, a tube of grease and rags. Also have 2 trailer spare tires for the long trips. Cover your prop and shaft to keep the dust out. Towed my mates 6.8 Surtees with Suzuki 225 to Denham, it was the first time it had been towed on the freeway and at 100 km per hr and it swayed like a bitch, it had no fuel and very light with gear loaded evenly, tried moving the gear up the front with no luck, had to move the winch post and pull the boat forward about 6"to fix the problem.

Tow ball height could also be an issue Devo1965 some times they can be flipped on the Reece hitch.

Run a chain and turnbuckle from the winching eye to the trailer - most trailers have a tie down point. Seen a lot of photos of broken winch posts caused by braking hard, including a story of one on here not that long ago.  Sounds obvious but also make sure the boat is tied down well.

Personal preference but I also avoid night driving particularly north of Carnarvon.  Less of an issue south of say Geraldton but you do see lots of dead wildlife on the coastal road between Lancelin and Cervantes.

in terms of spares also think about a winch strap.  Almost split my strap loading the boat in Dunsborough and was lucky the local chandlery was open - was a seatbelt style less than 12 months old!!

Cheers, have a great trip.

 Looking at all the rain up that way it may pay to check the road access. Other than that it sounds like you have it all covered.... lucky bugger!

If you get a wheel stuck on (corroded on) loosen the wheel nuts off slightly but leave them all on. Then do a few low speed figure 8's or hard turns left and right - this is usually enough to crack the join between the rim and axel. Obviously re-tighten the nuts after changing wheel.

Few other things - spare heavy duty D shackles for trailer chains.

Make sure you have a jack to fit the trailer and a block of wood in case on soft ground. (some car jacks are useless for trailers) - I take a small trolley jack.

Have outboard secured - not just on flick down lever .
Leave outboard in gear when travelling to lock the prop and stop seals etc. wearing

Cheers Paul never thought of leaving it in gear but will do so we have a trolley jack and large block of wood

 Shade cloth and frame to protect the hull from stone chips. I know they are inevitable but nice to keep things looking nice for as long as possible.

Cheers for all the advice

I use a Infrared Thermometer to keep a close eye of bearing temperatures. They can vary from one to another but as long as they aren't getting hotter.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Infrared-Thermometer.aspx?pid=321439#Cross

Picked mine up on special for around $30.

 plenty of beer? thats a must.

Nyloc Nuts on all threads including the number plate.  I hear the laughter, but the amount of numberplates, trailor lights & mud guards on the track to the bay near the airstrip is amaizing.

Check the amount of rain up there before you attempt the track, i hear they have had a fair bit their lately.

Good luck, enjoy & be safe.

cheers Rob

Never Sieze or CopperCoat or similar is a great investment on wheel nuts to stop them freezing in place. Also as suggested above, I recommend cracking and re-tightening the wheel nuts before a long trip, especially if they were put on with rattle gun. There is nothing worse than wrestling with overtightened wheel nuts on the side of the road when stress levels are already high because you have had to stop to change a wheel.

Think you may need another trailer to carry all the stuff suggested with you.
Spare hub and bearings plus the usual spare wheel. Take it easy and you won't have any trouble,

If you have removable lights , take them off as soon as you come to the King Waves Kill sign at the Tee junction to save the wires getting damaged by stones.

If you do strike trouble the wreckers here in town carry heaps of spare, u bolts, bearings, studs and other bits, mudguards will take 48 hours to arrive if you do them.

put a sock over your transducer if its transom mount, transducers dont like stone chips

 hopefuly they have graded the track by the time you get up there- can be brutal but what with the rain lately might be ok.

have a great trip

 Done the track many times people complain about shearing brake calliper bolts just disconnect them your not going fast enough on the track to need them and don't forget to drop tyre pressures on both car and trailer .

oh and remove bait board as the gnaraloo track owes me one

 Mate had it booked and all paid for 17thmay 10 days but had to cancel due mother in law is in palative care with only a couple days to go.

so if anyone wants to book cabin 6 at gnaraloo it should be available 17th May as I only just cancelled

Cheers to everyone for their advice and tips some of the suggestions I would never have thought of

will let you know the condition of the track.

I hear there has been just a little rain - 15-20mm the other night and a few sprinkles here and there but rather that than stinking hot.
if you come across big pools where the track is narrow from my experience the best way through them is straight through the middle where you would drive if they were not there.
I have driven in at night through thigh deep pools and not had any issues but I had someone walk through first.

tandem trailer? if so take 2 spare complete hubs, they are only $35 each.

take a good snatch strap and depending on the drop off in the water a drop down wheel can save your car from a wet experience.

agree with carnarvonite with removing lights as mine have fallen off and now I have them on a piece of jarrah with a solid rubber block in the middle to drop the leg onto.

I know I'm probably preaching to the converted but as a super paranoid tower, wire ties are my friend. I make sure I wire tie the safety chain shackle shut. From the winch post to the boat I have a stainless chain/clip, the winch strap and a turnbuckle - again anything that may work itself loose is wire tied. And any gear I put in the boat, the sun shade extension, the folded down canopy frame - anything that can move gets a few wire ties or is roped down.

I hadn't checked them since I bought my boat so before our last trip I checked the trailer suspension bushes - something that can get chewed out over time without you really noticing. Not to difficult to do even for a home mechanic like me - luckily mine were ok.

Great to hear I'm sharing the road with someone who is thinking SAFETY. Apart from the piece of mind you get knowing you're towing safely, there's nothing worse than the first day of your long planned holiday going wrong because you didn't give something the once over.

My gorgeous wife is always asking me for days before a trip, what the *^&( are you doing out there under that boat. Well darling, I have to get you and me, the kids and a couple of thousand kilos (vehicle included) 500k's down a road somewhere safely. She gets it now.

Hope you have a safe trip and catchalot.

+1 for Rig's idea of putting a sock over the transducer, that's going on my list.

I'd seriously look at tying the outboard leg down, perhaps back onto it's own transom mounting plate. And not having the leg raised too high to lessen the height of all that weight. The block of wood as mentioned is the go but the fact that guys feel the need for some rope in case it bounces out shows that there's a fair amount of force there and that flex all goes straight back to the transom. If you've ever sat behind a large outboard on a bumpy road you'd be horrified at the movement.