Boat electrical prob pic. idea's???

Stuffed up this morning whilst wiring in the new radio

Got the positive terminals done , was doing up the negative and the stud sheared off.  ( I wasn't hanging off it)

I now have about a thread and a half of stud left.

The only thing I can think of , is to make up a nut with stud coming off top.  screw on to whats left of stud ,  then araldite this on and hope.

Anyone got any better idea's???

cheers

 

 

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Is that a sealed unit, can it

Sat, 2012-10-27 09:50

Is that a sealed unit, can it be opened?

Samo76's picture

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Vice grips?

Sat, 2012-10-27 09:56

Vice grips?

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Ouch!

Sat, 2012-10-27 10:00

Ouch!

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ricey's picture

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I would do what you were thinking

Sat, 2012-10-27 10:03

 Soldering on another idea. More conductive, less permanent though less strong if under stress?

 

of course plan A is return it under warranty. Bolts shouldn't snap like that.

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scubafish's picture

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Solder the terminal to whats

Sat, 2012-10-27 10:03

Solder the terminal to whats left on the post,leave the nut off.

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first step Id go back to the

Sat, 2012-10-27 10:12

first step Id go back to the seller, failing that I dont know if Id solder it. That post is big and to solder without opening will put alot of heat into it.

basically though you may find your warranty is voided anyhow due to "rough handling" so if they wont fix it you probably be best just to open and solder.

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sea-kem's picture

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Is that a stainless stud

Sat, 2012-10-27 10:16

Is that a stainless stud Grayzee? Depending how much stud depth you have left going into the unit you could possibly drill and tap into what's left and bolt from the top.

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 X2  for drill & tap.  

Sat, 2012-10-27 10:29

 X2  for drill & tap.

 

 

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grayzeee's picture

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yep. stainless.I do think its

Sat, 2012-10-27 10:32

yep. stainless.

I do think its sealed too.  

A real face palm moment.

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Pm sent

Sat, 2012-10-27 10:41

Pm sent

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Itll be impossible to drill

Sat, 2012-10-27 11:58

Itll be impossible to drill and tap that without holding onto it which means opening it up which means void warranty and you may as well solder straight to the wire inside thats soldered/lugged to the stud?

 

EDIT-note whats written next to his thumb in the pic

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 Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...

 

 

The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

Everyone's just winging it.

 

fishy fingers's picture

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cant solder stainless

Sat, 2012-10-27 12:04

even if it wasnt stainless you would melt the plastic around it before the solder took. better to take it back if they

dont cover it under warranty they could at least fix it without screwing it up...cost less than a new one.

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I would try and thread it,

Sat, 2012-10-27 12:05

I would try and thread it, but very hard.

grayzeee's picture

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Don't want to put any heat

Sat, 2012-10-27 12:44

Don't want to put any heat into it and won't remove for drilling and tapping.

I'm going to weld 2 nuts together and screw some stud into one side , screw open nut onto remaining negative terminal and make permanent with glue.

Which glue/threadlock would you use for most permanent fix in this situation??

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lose the washer

Sat, 2012-10-27 12:45

force screw it on with a bit of good strong glue grip

dont tighten to much dont wana crack that cover.

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 I dont rekon its stainless

Sat, 2012-10-27 12:53

 I dont rekon its stainless its not a very good conductor. More likely nickel/chrome plated brass. Which would be easier to tap or go with the 2 nut option. Should work

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Any of the loctites will work

Sat, 2012-10-27 12:54

Any of the loctites will work

grayzeee's picture

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Ah , good point. Do you

Sat, 2012-10-27 13:04

Ah , good point.

Do you reckon I should use a brass stud that stays in direct contact with the remaining terminal?

Was going to use 2 stainless nuts

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cudbfishn's picture

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2 stainless nuts would also

Sat, 2012-10-27 13:32

2 stainless nuts would also been hard to weld unless you got the equipment. brass stud would be good and you can get some of that blue shit they coat battery terminals with to stop them corroding.

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Stainless is actually cleaner

Sat, 2012-10-27 16:35

Stainless is actually cleaner and easier to weld than mild steel and sticks like shit to a blanket.You can use a mild steel welding rod to weld stainless but you lose the corrosion resistance.

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oh sweet. Ive never tried but

Sat, 2012-10-27 16:53

oh sweet. Ive never tried but I do ali occasionally and its a pita so figured ss would be similar. I do braze 2mm ss rods and thats ok but you need to get them relly hot before the ss brazing rod melts lol

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Hydrogen gas

Sat, 2012-10-27 17:08

I'd be very careful welding near it with the possiblity of hydrogen gas, having seen batteries blow up there;s no way I'd be doing it.

sea-kem's picture

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Never mentioned welding on

Sat, 2012-10-27 17:22

Never mentioned welding on the unit or the boat. It's basic common sense but there are idiots out there who don't think.

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grayzeee's picture

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I can get them tig'd at work

Sat, 2012-10-27 14:24

I can get them tig'd at work so no prob there.

I use the heavy duty lanolin on those connections , which has been good so far.

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cudbfishn's picture

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Let us know how you go. good

Sat, 2012-10-27 14:54

Let us know how you go. good luck

carnarvonite's picture

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Easy out

Sat, 2012-10-27 16:34

Drill a hole in it and use an easyout onit.

Dont think it was cast it the terminal when making it but screwed in later so should unscrew.

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yep use an easy out

Sat, 2012-10-27 18:22

for my money I'ld drill a hole in the stud and use an easy out not as much mucking about and safer or cut a slot accross the bit of protruding bolt and try to get it out with a screw driver

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Used a 1/2 inch

Sat, 2012-10-27 18:59

Used a 1/2 inch ratchet???LOL. Good luck drilling stainless. If you cant grip the thread with some bullnose pliers and undo it, try putting a slot in it with a 1mm cutting disc and use a flat blade to undo it, but if the thread was tight or you crossed it, you will have trouble undoing it. Any larger size and a sharp pin puch could be used to 'knock' it undone

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cudbfishn's picture

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I thought this was more like

Sat, 2012-10-27 19:03

I thought this was more like a "fixed" terminal and it wasnt supposed to be undone?? just had the ring terminals bolted on via a nut? I still cant work out how you snapped the thread off?

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Ahh, yes, it appears to be a

Sat, 2012-10-27 19:46

Ahh, yes, it appears to be a nut on the thread between his fingers, in which case the stud wont or shouldnt unscrew from the unit. The double nut idea, or even just one will work if there's enough thread left 

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iana's picture

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Looking at the pictures, it

Sat, 2012-10-27 20:50

Looking at the pictures, it looks like a washer that can be seen, is held in place by two peen spots either side of the stud.

Is it possible to lift up (bend slightly) the washer on each side, then using a short piece of wire with a chrimped circular terminal on it, cutting the terminal to form a fork, and sliding it between the plastic and washer. if it can work I would then arildite the whole lot together to stop it comming apart. The other end of the wire would go to a terminal stud where you can stack your wires.

Just a suggestion for a different plan of attack!

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Another thought, is that an

Sat, 2012-10-27 20:54

Another thought, is that an aluminium boss, and the stud has been wound into it, the peen spots locking the stud in place. If so it may be possible to use an easy out (never easy out) and screw the broken stud out. Or a reverse fluted drill.

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Or buy a new battery Just a

Tue, 2012-10-30 08:47

Or buy a new battery

 

Just a thought.

 

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Dizzy's picture

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If replacing the terminal is

Tue, 2012-10-30 10:36

If replacing the terminal is not possible, try filing or grinding the existing nut around 1mm so the thread is as exposed as possible.  (i.e. so filed edge of nut is  flush with start of its thread)

Then carefully screw it onto the terminal without over-tightening - a thread and a half should be enough to get a decent bite.

 

Then cut a bolt or screw of the same thread size to your required length and screw it into the top of the old nut to give your self another attachment point.

Put a drop of the appropriate loctite product into the top of the nut

Screw the neatened CUT end into the nut (to maximise the amount of thread in the nut.)

Put a washer on top to increase clamping surface area, then your connectors.......... and then maybe a wingnut to stop you over-tightening it again.... ;)

 

And then make sure there's no tension on the wires, as it's not going to be as strong as the original terminal.

 

My 2c.

 

EDIT : Fark, sorry- I should have read your 1st post properly - looks like this was the idea you were looking for an alternative to...  derrr.   LOL.