Boat electrical prob pic. idea's???
Submitted by grayzeee on Sat, 2012-10-27 09:44
Stuffed up this morning whilst wiring in the new radio
Got the positive terminals done , was doing up the negative and the stud sheared off. ( I wasn't hanging off it)
I now have about a thread and a half of stud left.
The only thing I can think of , is to make up a nut with stud coming off top. screw on to whats left of stud , then araldite this on and hope.
Anyone got any better idea's???
cheers
____________________________________________________________________________
If I spent half as long fishing , as I do reading this bloody forum , I'd be twice the fisherman I am.
holth
Posts: 812
Date Joined: 09/10/06
Is that a sealed unit, can it
Is that a sealed unit, can it be opened?
Samo76
Posts: 63
Date Joined: 17/08/08
Vice grips?
Vice grips?
Here I am...and there you are.
till
Posts: 9358
Date Joined: 21/02/08
Ouch!
Ouch!
ricey
Posts: 738
Date Joined: 24/12/09
I would do what you were thinking
Soldering on another idea. More conductive, less permanent though less strong if under stress?
of course plan A is return it under warranty. Bolts shouldn't snap like that.
Wise man says - first take the plank out of your own eye before trying to take the speck out of somebody else's.
scubafish
Posts: 962
Date Joined: 15/08/12
Solder the terminal to whats
Solder the terminal to whats left on the post,leave the nut off.
http://img.gg/BQ91Sys
Rob H
Posts: 5806
Date Joined: 18/01/12
first step Id go back to the
first step Id go back to the seller, failing that I dont know if Id solder it. That post is big and to solder without opening will put alot of heat into it.
basically though you may find your warranty is voided anyhow due to "rough handling" so if they wont fix it you probably be best just to open and solder.
Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...
The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.
Everyone's just winging it.
sea-kem
Posts: 15020
Date Joined: 30/11/09
Is that a stainless stud
Is that a stainless stud Grayzee? Depending how much stud depth you have left going into the unit you could possibly drill and tap into what's left and bolt from the top.
Love the West!
fisherking
Posts: 730
Date Joined: 29/05/08
X2 for drill & tap.
X2 for drill & tap.
"Some cause happiness wherever they go; others, whenever they go." - Oscar Wilde
grayzeee
Posts: 2283
Date Joined: 09/07/09
yep. stainless.I do think its
yep. stainless.
I do think its sealed too.
A real face palm moment.
If I spent half as long fishing , as I do reading this bloody forum , I'd be twice the fisherman I am.
sea-kem
Posts: 15020
Date Joined: 30/11/09
Pm sent
Pm sent
Love the West!
Rob H
Posts: 5806
Date Joined: 18/01/12
Itll be impossible to drill
Itll be impossible to drill and tap that without holding onto it which means opening it up which means void warranty and you may as well solder straight to the wire inside thats soldered/lugged to the stud?
EDIT-note whats written next to his thumb in the pic
Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...
The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.
Everyone's just winging it.
fishy fingers
Posts: 1719
Date Joined: 28/04/07
cant solder stainless
even if it wasnt stainless you would melt the plastic around it before the solder took. better to take it back if they
dont cover it under warranty they could at least fix it without screwing it up...cost less than a new one.
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
I would try and thread it,
I would try and thread it, but very hard.
grayzeee
Posts: 2283
Date Joined: 09/07/09
Don't want to put any heat
Don't want to put any heat into it and won't remove for drilling and tapping.
I'm going to weld 2 nuts together and screw some stud into one side , screw open nut onto remaining negative terminal and make permanent with glue.
Which glue/threadlock would you use for most permanent fix in this situation??
If I spent half as long fishing , as I do reading this bloody forum , I'd be twice the fisherman I am.
MetroMako
Posts: 245
Date Joined: 17/07/12
lose the washer
force screw it on with a bit of good strong glue grip
dont tighten to much dont wana crack that cover.
cudbfishn
Posts: 1311
Date Joined: 06/04/09
I dont rekon its stainless
I dont rekon its stainless its not a very good conductor. More likely nickel/chrome plated brass. Which would be easier to tap or go with the 2 nut option. Should work
cudbfishn
Posts: 1311
Date Joined: 06/04/09
Any of the loctites will work
Any of the loctites will work
grayzeee
Posts: 2283
Date Joined: 09/07/09
Ah , good point. Do you
Ah , good point.
Do you reckon I should use a brass stud that stays in direct contact with the remaining terminal?
Was going to use 2 stainless nuts
If I spent half as long fishing , as I do reading this bloody forum , I'd be twice the fisherman I am.
cudbfishn
Posts: 1311
Date Joined: 06/04/09
2 stainless nuts would also
2 stainless nuts would also been hard to weld unless you got the equipment. brass stud would be good and you can get some of that blue shit they coat battery terminals with to stop them corroding.
sea-kem
Posts: 15020
Date Joined: 30/11/09
Stainless is actually cleaner
Stainless is actually cleaner and easier to weld than mild steel and sticks like shit to a blanket.You can use a mild steel welding rod to weld stainless but you lose the corrosion resistance.
Love the West!
cudbfishn
Posts: 1311
Date Joined: 06/04/09
oh sweet. Ive never tried but
oh sweet. Ive never tried but I do ali occasionally and its a pita so figured ss would be similar. I do braze 2mm ss rods and thats ok but you need to get them relly hot before the ss brazing rod melts lol
carnarvonite
Posts: 8673
Date Joined: 24/07/07
Hydrogen gas
I'd be very careful welding near it with the possiblity of hydrogen gas, having seen batteries blow up there;s no way I'd be doing it.
sea-kem
Posts: 15020
Date Joined: 30/11/09
Never mentioned welding on
Never mentioned welding on the unit or the boat. It's basic common sense but there are idiots out there who don't think.
Love the West!
grayzeee
Posts: 2283
Date Joined: 09/07/09
I can get them tig'd at work
I can get them tig'd at work so no prob there.
I use the heavy duty lanolin on those connections , which has been good so far.
If I spent half as long fishing , as I do reading this bloody forum , I'd be twice the fisherman I am.
cudbfishn
Posts: 1311
Date Joined: 06/04/09
Let us know how you go. good
Let us know how you go. good luck
carnarvonite
Posts: 8673
Date Joined: 24/07/07
Easy out
Drill a hole in it and use an easyout onit.
Dont think it was cast it the terminal when making it but screwed in later so should unscrew.
meglodon
Posts: 5981
Date Joined: 17/06/10
yep use an easy out
for my money I'ld drill a hole in the stud and use an easy out not as much mucking about and safer or cut a slot accross the bit of protruding bolt and try to get it out with a screw driver
tim-o
Posts: 4657
Date Joined: 24/05/11
Used a 1/2 inch
Used a 1/2 inch ratchet???LOL. Good luck drilling stainless. If you cant grip the thread with some bullnose pliers and undo it, try putting a slot in it with a 1mm cutting disc and use a flat blade to undo it, but if the thread was tight or you crossed it, you will have trouble undoing it. Any larger size and a sharp pin puch could be used to 'knock' it undone
I am, as I've said, merely competent. But in an age of incompetence, that makes me extraordinary.
cudbfishn
Posts: 1311
Date Joined: 06/04/09
I thought this was more like
I thought this was more like a "fixed" terminal and it wasnt supposed to be undone?? just had the ring terminals bolted on via a nut? I still cant work out how you snapped the thread off?
tim-o
Posts: 4657
Date Joined: 24/05/11
Ahh, yes, it appears to be a
Ahh, yes, it appears to be a nut on the thread between his fingers, in which case the stud wont or shouldnt unscrew from the unit. The double nut idea, or even just one will work if there's enough thread left
I am, as I've said, merely competent. But in an age of incompetence, that makes me extraordinary.
iana
Posts: 652
Date Joined: 21/09/09
Looking at the pictures, it
Looking at the pictures, it looks like a washer that can be seen, is held in place by two peen spots either side of the stud.
Is it possible to lift up (bend slightly) the washer on each side, then using a short piece of wire with a chrimped circular terminal on it, cutting the terminal to form a fork, and sliding it between the plastic and washer. if it can work I would then arildite the whole lot together to stop it comming apart. The other end of the wire would go to a terminal stud where you can stack your wires.
Just a suggestion for a different plan of attack!
iana
Posts: 652
Date Joined: 21/09/09
Another thought, is that an
Another thought, is that an aluminium boss, and the stud has been wound into it, the peen spots locking the stud in place. If so it may be possible to use an easy out (never easy out) and screw the broken stud out. Or a reverse fluted drill.
fisherking
Posts: 730
Date Joined: 29/05/08
Or buy a new battery Just a
Or buy a new battery
Just a thought.
"Some cause happiness wherever they go; others, whenever they go." - Oscar Wilde
Dizzy
Posts: 753
Date Joined: 21/02/11
If replacing the terminal is
If replacing the terminal is not possible, try filing or grinding the existing nut around 1mm so the thread is as exposed as possible. (i.e. so filed edge of nut is flush with start of its thread)
Then carefully screw it onto the terminal without over-tightening - a thread and a half should be enough to get a decent bite.
Then cut a bolt or screw of the same thread size to your required length and screw it into the top of the old nut to give your self another attachment point.
Put a drop of the appropriate loctite product into the top of the nut
Screw the neatened CUT end into the nut (to maximise the amount of thread in the nut.)
Put a washer on top to increase clamping surface area, then your connectors.......... and then maybe a wingnut to stop you over-tightening it again.... ;)
And then make sure there's no tension on the wires, as it's not going to be as strong as the original terminal.
My 2c.
EDIT : Fark, sorry- I should have read your 1st post properly - looks like this was the idea you were looking for an alternative to... derrr. LOL.