Put the tipper and the winch on opposite sides of the boat. Pull up alongside the pot, take up the slack in the rope by hand, then as soon as the rope started to straighten out, wind it around the winch a couple of turns. Hit the go pedal, and guide the rope as it is coming out of the winch neatly into the floor. Above anything; take your time!! When you rush, you make mistakes, then you are likely to damage your boat somewhere. It takes a bit of practice, but after a few goes you work out what is best for your own method and or boat. 

myself and for the work it has done lifting steel bottom 3/4 pots its been fine.

With the tipper be sure to get one where the handles you tip keep the width where the rope runs through and the bars dont narrow/bottle neck which chokes the bridle to the pot.

With tippers that narrow down you end up having to pull the pot up to the tipper to tip when you shouldnt have to at all. Hope that makes sense..  

Go and see Dror at CSDdesign in Bayswater for custom fit to your boat.

https://www.facebook.com/csddesignsperth/

Scroll through the pics on the boats below;

https://www.facebook.com/csddesignsperth/photos/pcb.1423715640988746/1423714130988897/

 Another tip i would suggest is to screw 12mm thick ply to the steel angle perimiter base using countersunck screws so if the pot does accidently touch the fiberglass it won't damage it

I got Dror to build mine.....all removable so it doesn't have to sit on my boat all year round.

I'm in Ocean Reef if you want to have a look.

First rate workmanship

 here is one thread. This bloke used an aluminium bracket. Unfortunately, the coaming on the Reefrunner is just not "quite' wide enough to fit an anchormax in without a bracket--the 2300 is. 

fishwrecked.com/forum/another-caribbean-reef-runner-build

I did mine differently, laminating it up from marine ply and resin

All removable, leaving just 2 s/s cap head screws in the coaming.

it is controlled via a solenoid and toggling switch, seen as illuminated in blue at the rhs of pic, not a believer in those foot switches. Tthe tipper was done by a bloke in Geraldton, not a bad design, although it does not angle out as much as I would like. Has a trip incorporated.Some of the ones in Perth are just flimsy, or too long in the horns, etc. I mounted vertical rod holders in the coamings to slip the tipper into.

Edit--And what Tot said further up--don't let anyone sell you a tipper with a little roller in the middle, with a frame guiding the rope in. Otherwise, as he says, you are massively loading the winch unnecessarily as you try to get the pot over the tipper, as the bridle chokes down. Go full width tipper. and when you are fitting it all, the rope has to come over the roller and run hirizontally to the bottom of the capstan--if it comes over too high,the rope will be trying to run off the top all the time. Huge PITA.

 Awesome info guys! Thanks so much.

that definitely looks the goods ranmar! These posts and pms have definitely saved me making some mistakes I wouldn't have even thought of being relatively green!

really appreciate everyone's time and willingness to share knowledge!

Hopefully will have done in the coming months and wil post the results.

cheers!

goat.

 I just did the lamination thing because I could do it entirely with materials I had lying around.  It plugs into the solenoid-controlled andersen plug connections. When not in use, it doubles up as one connection for an electric when we are deep dropping over the transom. I'll likely fill the tipper frame in with aluminium sheet, to keep pot corners off the hull behind, because I have a heap of it left over from my recent canopy cut and shut for the new ute.