Try ACE aluminium trailers. Good price and good product.

pete

just a thought for you , do you still have the old trailer ? if so have you considered finding a private boily who could use your old trailer as a template to weld you up a new frame etc , get it galved and use your old running gear, ??

my son rebuilt my trailer frame back in june , all up it was under $800 bucks including the galv, we used the old axle and hubs with new guards , rollers ,tyres and springs on as well

mine was for a 4.1 tinnie , but the savings on a bigger trailer from roadmaster same as the old one was significant , and the new one is stronger
using your old trailer as a template could be well worth it especially if your old one is still licenced

hezzy

But I wouldn't recommend it for the average bloke. It is actually a really time-consuming business, took up all of a lot of R&R's. It was for my quintrex 600 navigator CC, to handle roads like Useless Loop and the Ningaloo coast track, loaded up. Based on an older roadmaster design, double backbone rollered keel with side skids and proper tandem rocker suspension. All 4mm and 6mm materials, and haven't had a moments worry since. It cost something like $3.5 k to make, including the freight back and forth to Perth for galvanising. Only fail was not cleaning the welds up enough-gal won't stick to the smallest spot of slag, so I ended up cold gal-ing some. Boat and trailer now weigh 1500Kg. And I got an inverter welder and steel dropsaw as part of the project cost.
The A-frame trailer design usually sits lower, so you can launch/retrieve in less water--this may or may not be an issue for you. Be wary of what the trailer manufacturers tell you what you need--they, and a lot of boat salesmen, grossly underestimate the weight of an outfit. Run yours over a weighbridge--it will cost you somewhere between nothing and $25, so you can properly match your trailer requirements. I personally know of a Swiftcraft Dominator sitting on a near-new trailer,(single axle/slipper springs )supplied by a well-known Perth manufacturer, with an Agg. of 1200kg stencilled on. THAT would have to be the lightest Dommie ever built. With twin motors, it would weigh at least 1450kg, probably more.

Thanks for the feedback so far, I do still have the current trailer, Im pretty confident its the original, we grinded it back and repainted it a few yrs ago but cant stop the cancer..

The boat has been weighed along with the trailer. Trailer weighed 360kgs, boat came in at 940kgs with nothing in it except about 10l fuel and 5l two stroke oil.

We`ve had one of these under ours for 6 years now. Easy as to drive on and bugger all maintenance. Ir we had a steel trailer wouldn't be able to topw with a cruiser as would be over 3.5 tonnes .

http://www.duralitetrailers.com.au/2013-model-range-for-mono-hull-boats/

The tandem/single axle issue will be determined by the axle rated weight and the tyres fitted, as well as personal preference . 45mm square slimline axles with ford bearings can be up to 1500kg single axle, 3000kg dual. Over 1500kg single will require 50mm square axle, and ( Ithink) parallel bearings. There would be plenty of single axle boat trailers out there carrying more load than they are certified for. And remember the tyre load rating must be followed, too---ordinary car tyres are often rated too low for single axle use.
The Martins Trailer Parts catalogue is a useful source of information, you can view it online. The Kits section has all that.
With a dry weight of 1300Kg, you could easily exceed the 1500Kg with fuel, ice and gear, not to mention the gear you probably load it with if you go away.

Thanks for the info so far all, seems the main thing is to plan for more weight than you expect...

Next thing, rollers vs sliders/bunks. While a lot of the more common trailers have rollers, pro fisho's and custom setups feature more sliders/bunks?

Cost? Ease of maintenance? They seem to work just as well?

I've currently got a full roller type trailer and I really like it. The boat pretty much falls off the trailer when you unhitch it. Retreiving is also easy, there aren't any keel rollers so it can come in at an angle and it will just slide down until the V of the boat is between the rollers and then straighten up. The disadvantage is that the keel is the strongest part of the boat, and the rollers don't give any support there, they only hold it from the sides. So if the hull isn't strong you could end up damaging it. I think boston whaler recommend against using these types of trailers for that reason.

My previous boat had keel rollers with bunks. The idea is that 90% of the weight sits on the keel rollers which is the strongest part of the boat so it's supported better. The bunks just hold the boat upright. I found it harder to retreive with that setup, you had to get the hull dead straight before winding the boat up or else it would miss the keel rollers. It could have just been the way that particular trailer was setup.

I've also seen some that have bunks all round. Not sure how they go. I would think it would be hard to push the boat off them without any rollers helping. You would have to bury the trailer more and float on and off.

Fully rollered are really for glass boats, like yours--rollers on the pressed ally hulls can cause a failure because the load is in too small an area--probably OK on a very heavy bottom, like 5mm. Weight in any boat should be mainly on the keel, anything on the side is just to stabilise it. Rollers will certainly launch/ retrieve easier--right up to the point where they will dump your boat off on the ramp as you back down, if you let the winch hook or security chain off too soon :-) :-)Long ago, I once had a brand new 16ft plate ally hull and trailer, which came with those old rubber side slides, and rollered keel. It was quite hard to push off, as the rubber gripped. So I made up a custom set with cutting board material each side, and a lot of contact area. The first time I went to launch it, I released the pawl on the winch, as a prelude to unhooking it, and it just took off! Got rapped knuckles grabbing the handle.

Using an easy loader (spring-loaded v-rollers at the very back)is very good for getting the boat lined up when retrieving,particularly if wind is pushing it sideways, and keeping it on the rollers as you winch up.
If I had a glass hull I'd have (rubber) rollered keel and side rollers. A lot of people don't get that either--rubber rollers are for glass boats, the urethane rollers are for ally. Ally keels will chop the rubber up in no time, and urethane is very hard--I'd rather have the shock-absorbing qualities of rubber under a (compared to ally) brittle glass boat.
Interested to hear others thoughts on this.

Good feedback all, thanks.

So Ive been getting some prices from a few trailer companies such as:

Ezy Tow
Mackay
Roadmaster

And for the boat I have they have all come in around 7-8k for a trailer, some single axle HD, some tandem but not HD etc.

To be honest I was expecting closer to 5k for a galv trailer..

What do people know about or think of "Sea Trail" trailers sold by Seabreeze boating? The pricing is "significantly" cheaper...I'm a firm believer that you don't get something for nothing so they must be making some savings somewhere?

 Give them a call. They're on Welshpool rd heaps of trailers in stock. 5 k should give you some change for a box of beer a tank of fuel and some bait...:)

Hi All,

After some more research Ive decided to get a custom build Hitchit Trailer from York WA.

Same pricing as the more popular brands but a lot better build quality and locally built also.

A reasonable outlay but will be suitable for my next boat also...something along the lines of 6+m, glass, 24-25deg deadrise. :-)