Yamaha Flushing
Submitted by Hose A on Mon, 2018-04-30 13:12
Hi All,
New boat owner here, when I flush my Yamaha FT60DET with muffs on, I get a strong stream out of the tell tale but also another stream just under the cav plate at the front of the motor. I have taken a small video to show this, is this normal?
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Cheers John
“There's nothing more dangerous as a resourceful idiot”
Bluedog
Posts: 251
Date Joined: 28/07/11
I cant see the video but I
I cant see the video but I have a few holes under the cavity plate on my 150 yamaha and water comes out of those while flushing. The water is gravity fed though, there is no pressure from those holes.
Silver Fox
Posts: 1097
Date Joined: 19/06/14
Yep
Yep , it’s perfectly normal
My wife understands why I clean my rods n reels in the shower....
cruzy111
Posts: 274
Date Joined: 08/10/13
Its good yours will run on
Its good yours will run on muffs, that is normal. Ive given up on muffs and use a 55l green rubbish bin which fits perfectly over the motor when down.
keg
Posts: 395
Date Joined: 17/07/07
muffs
my yamaha won`t flush with the single sided muffs, i have to use the ones with water squirted in from both sides
Grey Ghost
Posts: 183
Date Joined: 12/10/15
Put in gear
Usually putting my Yammie 150hp into gear helps gets the flush working with muffs.
"Grey Ghost", 670HT Barcrusher with 150 Yamaha, based at Cockburn PBC.
Hose A
Posts: 31
Date Joined: 10/05/16
Good to hear
Thanks guys for your responses, thought that it would be ok.
Cheers John
“There's nothing more dangerous as a resourceful idiot”
little johnny
Posts: 5330
Date Joined: 04/12/11
I've found flushing
From flush point straight into block. Tends to clean heaps better .
ranmar850
Posts: 2702
Date Joined: 12/08/12
That's interesting
Conventinal widom has it that the flush point type flushing ( direct off hose, motor not running) doesn't flush as well, and, in fact has had the finger pointed at it for big salt buildups found during strip down of failed motors, where the owner has only ever flushed that way, ie, not off the muffs. My new Merc has one of these points--I couldn't get it to pick up off the muffs first time I tried to flush, so used the flush attachment point. I referred back to the dealer on this, and in his opinion, the muffs are still the way to go. Nothing from the factory backs this up, however.
I think our town water pressure has dropped--my old F115a was always fine on the muffs, then started having trouble, even with a new impeller. Other people have also started having issues where there were none before.
Lastchance
Posts: 1272
Date Joined: 02/02/09
Interesting point as my old
Interesting point as my old 250 yammy 4 stroke wouldn't flush at all on the muffs, so I had to use the flush point with no motor running (as per manual) and I rarely had to change the head anodes (1000+ hours) and the cooling galleries, leg and water pump had little or no signs of build up either. I was apprehensive I must admit at first though!
just dhu it
Posts: 1081
Date Joined: 14/05/09
Flushing ports
flushing ports work well if the two piece can't supply enough water via the motors water pump, flushing through the ports only lets water at hos epressure go through the head and supply ports where as using the muffs over the intake ports allows water through the entire cooling system and including the water pump , impeller and bottom end housing to ensure every section is flushed of saltwater so. iMO. If they can be used would be the twin sided muffs
little johnny
Posts: 5330
Date Joined: 04/12/11
When motor hot( warm)
I use flush point . If motor has been sitting , I will use double muffs. My mates yammy done 700 hrs only ever used flush point on yammy ( never muffs). His annodes immaculate ,also thermostat area