Anchor Winch Fuse
Submitted by Peko on Wed, 2015-04-29 15:38
I've got a 150amp fuse on the anchor winch that has blown repeatedly. I put the first couple of occurrences down to being unfamiliar with the boat in general and probably being too heavy handed when setting the anchor against the bow. I later discovered that I had too much rope and chain for the winch drum and it was wedging tight against the housing the winch sits in if it didn't wrap perfectly. Months go by and all the previous resolved but I still blow the fuse even being extremely careful. Any suggestions as to what might be the cause?
pelagicyachts
Posts: 1322
Date Joined: 23/02/11
is it a rocker fuse? or
is it a rocker fuse? or "reset" type switch? - i had a muir reset switch on our winch that started doing that after a while - (assume the salt got to it)
Peko
Posts: 185
Date Joined: 01/10/14
Fuse
Not sure what you mean by a rocker fuse but certainly not a reset. This is a fixed fuse that is mounted at the back of the boat close by the batteries as main circuitry protection.
Peko
Posts: 185
Date Joined: 01/10/14
Fuse
Apologies there as the way I've written the comment would make you think the fuse is attached or part of the winch.
Ericl
Posts: 473
Date Joined: 02/05/11
Slow blow fuse
Hi
I am in the process of installing an anchormax capstan winch for pulling craypots and I note that the instructions mention a "slow blow fuse" I assume this is because the initial current draw is much higher than the ongoing current hence slow blow so that it doesn't blow every time you load it.
I am going to try a fuse as well as it is the cheaper option, but i think a circuit breaker might be a better idea
Don't spend all your money on beer, boats, and fishing. Save some to spend foolishly
Starbug
Posts: 563
Date Joined: 27/08/09
I'm a spark but by no means
I'm a spark but by no means an expert on marine winches. That said you generally want a slow blow or motor rated fuse or resettable overload. The later being the preferred option.
bsir
Posts: 574
Date Joined: 24/04/11
Rating
Firstly, Id check the power rating on your winch. It should have either a stamp or some information stating either Watts, or Amps (most likely both). Any Fuse or CB will need to be rated accordingly.
Hopefully when it was installed the cable was sized correctly. Your fuse/CB is required to protect the cables, not just the motor.
I agree with what Starbug above has said, motor fuses are different fuses to a standard fuse, particualrly for DC motors as they will draw a massive amount of current at startup.
If possible, fitting a resettable Circuit Breaker is a better option, typically make sure you get a proper waterproof CB. I see some on EBAY but cant vouch for the quality. Whitworths probably also sell them. Very easy to fit.
bsir
Posts: 574
Date Joined: 24/04/11
Rating
Firstly, Id check the power rating on your winch. It should have either a stamp or some information stating either Watts, or Amps (most likely both). Any Fuse or CB will need to be rated accordingly.
Hopefully when it was installed the cable was sized correctly. Your fuse/CB is required to protect the cables, not just the motor.
I agree with what Starbug above has said, motor fuses are different fuses to a standard fuse, particualrly for DC motors as they will draw a massive amount of current at startup.
If possible, fitting a resettable Circuit Breaker is a better option, typically make sure you get a proper waterproof CB. I see some on EBAY but cant vouch for the quality. Whitworths probably also sell them. Very easy to fit.
Subaquatic
Posts: 514
Date Joined: 23/04/11
Swap it out for a correctly
Swap it out for a correctly rated DC Circuit Breaker.
Also make sure the clutch is set correctly, and that the winch slips before the motor reaches stall current.
http://www.keoghsmarine.com.au/Anchor-Winch-Accessories/Anchor-Winch-Accessories-Foot-Switch-Panels-Circuit-Breakers/Anchor-Winch-Accessories-Foot-Switch-Panels-Circuit-Breakers-Muir-Anchor-Switches-Circuit-Breakers?product_id=4276http://www.go2marine.com/product/206281F/lewmar-windlass-circuit-breaker.html
just dhu it
Posts: 1081
Date Joined: 14/05/09
Running
peko. I would take of the anchor and rope and ensure the unit runs without and weight or load to prove the motor runs
then load it up bit by bit , as the other gave said you need to view the rating plate and find out how much it draws , ensure its a 12 volt unit and what it requires and that all of the connections and battery's are in good order lower voltage to the motor increases currant( amp ) draw when used
Starbug
Posts: 563
Date Joined: 27/08/09
Agree with all the above
Agree with all the above comments.
Just a couple of tips. Never winch you boat forward to retrieve you anchor. Come forward in gear at idle to take the strain off the winch. this also assists your battery as your alternator is taking some of the load.
Use you ears. If you hear the motor bogging down you have too much load on it.
Double check the connections, contactor, and cable size feeding the winch. Undersized cable or poor connections will cause excessive voltage drop. To make rated power the motor will then draw even more current, stall and trip.
With drum style winches, the more rope/chain you have on = larger effective diameter = greater retrieval rate per turn = more strain on the motor.
fish 06
Posts: 164
Date Joined: 30/06/13
Anchor winch
I run a drum anchor winch with 6ply braided rope 100 meters + chain has a 60amp circuit breaker, first few times it was used it blew the breaker.
After a couple of phone calls to the maker, was recommended too run both batteries during retrieval, have not had a problem since.
Ericl,my Maxwell capstan winch came with a 90amp circuit breaker, would recommend fitting one, only time this has blown was when pot was stuck.
Peko
Posts: 185
Date Joined: 01/10/14
Anchor Winch Fuse
Thanks kindly for all the comment and advice. Ill have it checked out thoroughly next week when I have the boat in for an engine service. One thing that does stand out is the amount of batteries I use when running. I have three batteries rather than the standard two. The additional is to cover additional power requirements when the motor is not running for extended periods such as a fridge. I have often only switched the one battery on when going out.
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
Is this a actual fuse or a
Is this a actual fuse or a resettable breaker?
E.g do you just flick the switch back to on or do you have to pull a fuse cart out and replace it ? If it's the Breaker these are meant to trip with excess load to save the motor.
What winch is it ? Being a Barcrusher i assume Stressfree maxi ? Depending on your batteries most of those winch's spec have both batteries on ( which is super annoying) If you are getting a Volt drop across the cable you could be running higher amps than you should be hence the quick tripping the breaker?
Post a few more details and will try and help some more.
Vinnie
Peko
Posts: 185
Date Joined: 01/10/14
Actual Fuse
Its requires the replacement of the fuse, at $20 a pop I might add. Your correct about the winch type and there is a resettable breaker on the dash but that's never dropped out and I've always just looked upon as a safety to not inadvertently dropped the anchor
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
Something not right if you
Something not right if you ask me. The fuse that's close to the battery is to protect the wiring and should not blow. I assume its a ANL fuse ? like below:
Have you checked current flow at the fuse and voltdrop at the motor ? I have a DC clamp meter you can borrow if it helps.
Cheers
Peko
Posts: 185
Date Joined: 01/10/14
I agree
Certainly agree with something not being right and yes the fuse is there to protect the wiring. The type of fuse is a bolt through probably 30mm square with a hole through the centre for a 10mm bolt. The boats going in on Monday for a motor service and Ill have it thoroughly gone over then. Ill send additional PM