To be able to llicense a newly build trailer, you need to be a registered manufacturer and have a build plate with all the details on it fastened to the to be WA licensed trailer, sadly.

there are "other" ways to do it but the correct ways are long and fustrating + Co$tly

You can "do up/ renovate/repair" a current WA licensed trailer.

I'm guessing you're talking about mild steel for your sections. The channel weight will start to mount up although it's quite a good section strength wise. You could go 100 x 50 x 3mm RHS instead and get the weight down a little bit. Keep us updated as I'm probably going to build one myself for a 4.75 Quinnie I'm rebuilding.

Thanks guys

It is quite easy to license a boat trailer - I have mates who have built a few (if it does get too hard - the 1982 Roadmaster will be 'Renovated'...)

I am keen to stay away from as much RHS as possible to avoid any internal rust - I would make the drawbar out of something other than RHS if I could think of what... Yes it will be mild steel then hot dipped - another reason for the 1.5T rating - to make up for the extra weight of the steel...

If I remember I will write up a report and take heaps of photos of the build for anyone who is interested

Drew

Are your regular 4wd trailers really built using those sections? 4WD chassis are built from lighter profiles!

If you go too heavy you begin to work against yourself.

I would recommend something with a v-style frame and to look into independent coils and damping, it would be a much better ride.

Remember if your springs are too heavy, they're not going to be doing any damping either ;)

dont know what they call them . the polls that drop into the sides at the back of the trailer to keep the boat from drifting of the trailer when retreiving .

I wanna renno my trailer and thats top of the list. must be n/w proof also(long shit road)

ALSO mesh as much of it as you can afford so you can walk all over it, also helps with strength

Like Glastro said easier to buy an old trailer already registerd with the right load ratings and just do it up. problem is second boat trailers are few and far between. Should be alright with RHS as lond as the ends are left open for flushing out but if you've allowed for the extra weight then go for channel. It's also less prone to cracking in the weld ares as RHS is rated at minimum grade 350. I'd be throwing in a few gussets here and there for rigidity.

Thanks again

I am keen to stick with solid axle (V style)  instead of independent to keep it simple, but the springs do worry me as I dont want it too stiff.  I need the 9 leaf to lisence it at 1.5T, but it is only when loaded up for a big trip that is anywhere near this weight...  Am thinking of the possibility of (after it is lisenced) removing 1 or 2 leafs, adding airbag helpers, and it will definantly have shock absorbers - and heaps of gusseting where needed!!

Tot, my current (rusted out) trailer has a full width slide across the back - as long as the bow is anywhere behind the trailer it slides into the roller and straightens itself up - i am thinking I will use the same idea with the new one...

Drew

Will do - I Will build and lisence the new one first - just to make sure!

I forgot to add - if anyone has any of the above items laying around, I would be interested in buying them to save a few $ off Martins Trailer Parts prices...

Thanks

I can get the steel sections for you at a reasonable cost as I'm a fabricator.

I got my c section there cost a fraction of going to midalia or the like and they bent it to my specs too

for nothing it was older stock but once blasted for galvanising and pickled it was like new

Edit:whilst I'm at it if you go on the midalia sight find the stock you want and it will give you the wheight per metre so it's easy to work out what your

trailer will wheigh

Just download this:

http://www.buildwithstandards.com.au/asset/cms/ATM/Hot_Rolled_Cat_Issue5_Feb2011.pdf

It has the weights per m for most sections.

What about I beam? I see up here in the NT it is being more commonly used on the heavy duty trailers, as it flexes less than C section.

Well protected lights and lots and lots of tie down points. The winch mount at the right angle to take an L - R retrieval system and good sized steps on the sides of the guards so you can get stuff out easily.

Rod locker or some travel storage on the mesh you lay on the trailer. There is a bit of room under a boat between the trailer and hull, try to use it where you can with low mount lockers etc.

Chris

 Just a heads up for trailer seeking forum members;

I am building a new trailer as we do have the accreditation to do this and I am planning long roadtrips way up north to get to the magnificent waters up north therefore;....

I will have in about a month time a registered double axle 2 wheel hydr braked trailer for a max 6.2mtr boat for sale with 60! roller wobblies.

I replaced all springs,stubaxles, brake disks, brake mastercilinder etc. and hangers & bolts less than 6 mnds ago.

It has all the correct paperwork, weighbridge certificate and other paperwork with it and is in excelent condition.

This will accomodate a boat between 5.5 and 6.2mtr as the whinch post is easily movable to balance the trailer correctly.

Hey Wannafish

As you said you are going to tow it along beaches I presume you will be beach launching.  Maybe have a look at this setup it looks awesome and saves alot of grief keeping your car out of the danger zone

http://fishwrecked.com/forum/beach-launch-trailer-set-cashy

Here is a link for all the requirements to build a trailer, i made one 2 years ago and passed it first time over the pits using this guide . There is a section in there about private owners building a trailer and what you are required to do to register it .

Cheers Grant .

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb1/vsb_01_a.aspx