Drilling stainless steel

 Hey guys trying to work out how to drill some holes for spotties in my stainless bar work. I've tried fast with oil slow with oil and with good viper bits mad just seems to destroy the bit before I get even close to a hole. Any help would be much appreciated cheers 

 

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FINNI's picture

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 NEVER FAST no matter what

Sun, 2014-09-07 08:08

 NEVER FAST no matter what you do, its all about correct slow speed to high pressure ratio.

You can feel it cut, There is a nack to it doing it by feel, but there is also speed charts ect ect but i never use them.
Main thing is you need to be keeping the drill cool before she over heats and destroys the hardness of the tip.

if you dont press hard enough it will just spin and the friction will get red hot, 
 

I have seen tradies standing next to me go through 20+ drill bits without getting the hole done.

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 Cheers heaps mate I'll try

Sun, 2014-09-07 08:08

 Cheers heaps mate I'll try that many my slow wasent slow enough but I wasent pushing hard either cheers mate

 

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Wd40 helps, and yep just go

Sun, 2014-09-07 08:24

Wd40 helps, and yep just go slow to feel it bite in.

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Lastchance's picture

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FINNI is spot on. Also, SS,

Sun, 2014-09-07 08:24

FINNI is spot on. Also, SS, like brass will actually cut better if you use water as the lubricant/cooling agent

The Saint's picture

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Drill bits must be sharp and

Sun, 2014-09-07 08:53

Drill bits must be sharp and slow spead, don't let anything get hot.

Start with a small pilot hole and then drill out to the required size don't try and whack a 1/2 inch drill straight through.

If you have already tried and got the stainless too hot it has more than likely work hardened the area which will make the task more difficult.

Get hold of some ROCOL cutting fluid if you can, this is about the best, but as stated water or WD40, anything to lubricate the cutting edge of the drill and to keep things cool.

Hope that helps,

Cheers

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 You need Treblex drilling

Sun, 2014-09-07 08:56

 You need Treblex drilling paste and a hard even pressure. Your drill bits need to be very sharp and you don't need any fandangled bits, normal bits will do the job no problem at all. If you overheat the bit and and stuff it then you have stuffed the hole you are trying to drill as you have work hardened the surface and yes you will go through twenty bits. Always start with a small pilot hole 3-5mm and then up the bit size gradually. Unless you have a drill press don't try to go through at once, use a stop start method with a hand drill. Trust me boys I do this a lot!

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 Trefolex, but 100% good

Sun, 2014-09-07 16:16

 Trefolex, but 100% good advice-if it gets hot and work hardens it is not possible to drill anymore.

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 Ha ha yeah Trefolex, Treblex

Sun, 2014-09-07 20:10

 Ha ha yeah Trefolex, Treblex is the business that owned my factory unit before me lol.

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Treblex might be gonad cream

Mon, 2014-09-08 17:38

Treblex might be gonad cream or syph medication or something silly like that

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The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

Everyone's just winging it.

 

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as you said sea-kem

Mon, 2014-09-08 15:46

as sea-kem said and try using a step drill rather than a regular drill bits

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 Thanks heaps guys u save me

Sun, 2014-09-07 09:04

 Thanks heaps guys u save me heaps in bits got the hole through no dramas. Can't believe over the years how many bit I've killed due to just going flat stick cheers heaps matt

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 slow n lots of pressure also

Sun, 2014-09-07 20:21

 slow n lots of pressure also start out with a smalk hole and work up to what size you need 

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 Believe it or not we have

Mon, 2014-09-08 17:24

 Believe it or not we have drilled through hardened stainless steel rod using a high quality carbide tip masonry drill bit. An old engineer said we should try it and it worked well much to my surprise 

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Yep, was guna say when it

Mon, 2014-09-08 17:38

Yep, was guna say when it goes to shit, a carbide tip would be the go. When I worked at a HP engine shop, tryin to drill into a forged crank with the drill press on the balancing machine was impossible, but crackin through the outer layer with a carbide burr did the trick

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Sorry for pinching the post a little

Tue, 2014-09-09 12:06

But Im sick of "crap" drill bits  - can you guys recommend very good quality gear.

Ie - "The Stella of drill bits"

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drill bits

Tue, 2014-09-09 19:23

P@N drill bits are good plus get yourself a bench grinder and have some one teach you how to sharpen the drills
personally think sharpening drill bits should be a basic skill set of all apprentices (it was once) , it used to drive me up the wall to see appys and tradies blunten a drill bit chuck it away and then just get a new 1 from the store

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Art

Tue, 2014-09-09 19:38

Bit of an art to being able to hand sharpen a drill bit, you need a good eye.

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big john

Tue, 2014-09-09 21:32

sharpening a drill bit is a skill but it should be taught who taught you to sharpen one you bet it was your cranky old first tradesman (and was a pom from Yorkshire)

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 One of my forte's BJ ;) 

Wed, 2014-09-10 09:20

 One of my forte's BJ ;) 

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drill bits

Wed, 2014-09-10 16:39

bet you don't chuck out any drill bits sea-kem you would be a resharpenig bloke , every dollar counts when you work for yourself

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Thanks Pete

Thu, 2014-09-11 13:43

You know what I do so in this field everything is "disposable". Was looking at quality bits that last longer than Bunnings shit.

Have a quality diamond bit for ceramics and wow am impressed, but still trying to find my arm it cost.

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sea-kem's picture

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 If you are drilling through

Thu, 2014-09-11 20:25

 If you are drilling through ceramic tiles Crasny you just use a cheap arse masonary bit on normal drill mode not hammer.

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go for

Thu, 2014-09-11 20:41

buy some quality P@N drill bits

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ROCOL

Tue, 2014-09-09 20:39

 use ROCOL cutting fluid, as Trefolex - which is an awesome product btw, is castogenic. 

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 They actually took it off

Wed, 2014-09-10 09:19

 They actually took it off the shelves for a while and have now changed the formula from what I've been told.

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yeah problem was I believe

Wed, 2014-09-10 19:07

yeah problem was I believe when using it for power tools where it smokes up.

Was actually intended for taps dies etc I think

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 Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...

 

 

The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

Everyone's just winging it.

 

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 Same as anything I guess

Wed, 2014-09-10 19:10

 Same as anything I guess Rob, where there's smoke there's cancer.

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spot on

Thu, 2014-09-11 20:43

your spot on there rob but is a good cutting compound guess me and all the blokes that used it are stuffed now

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 I just got a cheap ozito bit

Tue, 2014-09-09 23:38

 I just got a cheap ozito bit sharpener from bunnings it's got a guid were to place the bit and works a treat

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School

Wed, 2014-09-10 17:47

School where I'm working at the moment got one of those sharpeners, crapola if you want to re-sharpen a bit to drill through steel.

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WA based manufacturer and supplier of premium leadhead jigs, fligs, bucktail jigs, 'bulletproof' soft plastic jig heads and XOS bullet jig heads.

Jigs available online in my web store!