where are you located mate??

 I'm by no means an expert but have built a few rods. The first rod I built was a spinning jig rod with micro guides which was a big mistake. For your first rod build a boat rod because it's a lot easier to learn starting your wraps on a larger diameter blank. That's just my opinion. As for equipment I built a couple rods using cardboard triangle stands with a notch cut into them and ran the thread through a encyclopaedia to put tension on the thread. It was hard work but very rewarding sitting there for 2 hours turning the rod watching epoxy dry. If your handy with wood you can easily make up a rod wrapper there's plenty of instructions on the net. Here's a basic list of the bare essentials. 

-Thread (size d recommend for first rod)

-Two part rod epoxy 

-Brushes for epoxy application 

-Masking tape

-Razor blades 

-Sand paper 

- 5 minute epoxy 

Thats about all you need. If you have any questions ask and I'll try and answer them to the best of my ability. 

Cheers Josh

 Facebook page = Custom Fishing Rods Australia 

 Thanks im located in geraldton 

 I have done a bit of rod building mate. You want to find some sort of slow turning unit for drying your eyes . I have used one of those slow meat turners you would normally use on a barbecue (normally used to cook a slow roast rotisserie style) you can find battery operated ones.They turn nice and slow and you can leave it on overnight.

 I'm a bit late here but Josh has listed some basic stuff you need but I thought I'll clarify what he mentioned as 2 part rod epoxy. Not sure what Josh means but you may need regular slow cure epoxy for gluing reel seats and grips. Your reel seat will fit loosely around the blank which needs to be built up. The purist will use arbors but I've been using masking tape for years without detriment. The trick is to make sure you have plenty of glue between the reel seat and the blank. I also use 5 minute epoxy in gluing the tip tops. Like Josh said, a cardboard box with V cutout to support blank is all you need unless you want something fancy which can cost you.

After reel seat and grips have set the next thing is thread assuming you've already got the guides. Brand and colour of binding thread is limited here with the common one being Fuji which is generally a C size.  No need for D size which you will find hard to get. Although I started with C size but that was before I knew better and had no experience. Later I started using A size and haven't bothered with C unless I got a spool on a clearance special. If you want to practice go to a haberdashery and get cheap sewing thread and wind it on a dowel. Doesnt matter if thread is furry, it's only for practice. If you want better stuff for practice then use a good brand polyester thread like Mettler Polysheen or Madeira. Mettler may be a little difficult to find but Kennedy's (Bernina rep) carry 800m spool. Other places carry only the 200m. Gutermann polyester is more common in the sewing shops but I find Mettler rounder, less furry and much cheaper. Now the Mettler and Madeira are embroidery rather than rod building thread and may contain silicone which rejects epoxy coatings. So you need to seal the thread with a thread colour preserver/sealer like Threadmaster Chromaseal. I was using Gudebrod until the company went under. In wanting to keep costs down I've now settled on Mettler Polysheen for my rod building. It's thickness and strength is on par with other brands of proper rod building thread and so there's no fear of the guides coming off. The next step after the sealer has dried is to coat the bindings. The coating is a 2 part epoxy specially for thread and not the one gluing or for painting the rod blank as some may do. It's not necessary to paint the blank but some do it for aesthetics. Thread epoxy comes in many brands but I prefer Threadmaster which is not avail here and so I get mine from US directly. A cup to mix in and I just cut the top off a disposable plastic cup. Works. No need to get special small cups. A small brush to paint on the epoxy on the thread but you need syringes to measure each part. This is critical as both parts must be equal otherwise the epoxy wont cure properly. Another reason to Threadmaster as it can stand a difference up to 10% without problem. Also the syringes have to be silicone free so you cant use the ones from the chemist. While I use FlexCoat syringes as they are avail here, the Threadmaster ones are better as the marking on FlexCoat ones wear off. To obviate this, paint the excess from your first mix on the markings. Use nail polish remover like acetone to clean brushes.

When done coating the bindings need to dry but for first hour or so, depending on coating brand, epoxy will run. A motorized drying unit is useful but unnecessary. Just need to turn the rod by hand every few minutes at the beginning and extending the time. If you have the nounce to build a dryer, why spend more than $30 on a battery rotisserie motor when the cheapest is to find a microwave on the verge and rescue the turntable motor. Many makes are already 240v so can be directly wired into a plug. Put a light switch in between. You can mount the motor on a piece of wood and make a plinth with a holder for your rod. No need to leave overnite, my Threadmaster only needs 1.5 hours of turning. Something like FlexCoat may need up to 6 hours but that's why I chose Threadmaster.

The other thing you can do for your knowledge is to access rod building forums such as rodbuilding.org. Heaps of advice and there's a library as well. Good luck and happy binding

ken