4 Stroke Servicing - What's involved

A mate and I were discussing what's actually involved in a 4-stroke service...  Anyone done their own on here?

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scano's picture

Posts: 1247

Date Joined: 31/05/07

good question

Thu, 2011-07-14 21:38

Basically the same as a car motor service from what i can imagine. I did a mechanical apprenticeship back in the day so I wouldn't mind servicing mine myself either. From everything I can gather you just need to do the following

 

Engine oil and filter change (the most imperative part of any service)

fuel filter change (often overlooked by most)

change the gearbox leg oil (very easy to do yourself)

change the water pump impellor (this is the part that I am unsure of myself on how to do myself)

change spark plugs (may need to what they call index the plugs on certain models, that is where they all face the same way once tightened into the head)

inspect all hoses, clamps, cables and fittings for signs of wear or corrosion damage

clean the carby butterflies or injection throttle bodies with an approved throttle body cleaner spray (again often overlooked)

 

Every 100 hours of so

check the valve clearance with a set of feeler gauges (will most likely need a replacment rocker cover gasket once this is done)

double check the condition of the timing belt and any timing belt tensioner bearings / pulleys

 

I have a Honda BF40 4 stroke and it starts literally first crack of the key every time. I would just like someone to shed more info on changing the water pump impellor if possible??

 

scano

 

 

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Posts: 9358

Date Joined: 21/02/08

Add in grease the prop shaft

Fri, 2011-07-15 06:40

Add in grease the prop shaft too.

Impeller is pretty simple, I think you have to disconnect the gear select shaft in front of the leg, then 5 bolts and the gearbox comes down enough to slip it in.

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Posts: 193

Date Joined: 04/02/09

Minimum

Thu, 2011-07-14 21:57

Service I'd suggest replace oil,fuel filters, drain replace engine and leg oil. Buy a pump for the gear oil too.I think the spark plugs are good for 400 hours plus in Hondas. Depending on the impellor I'd have a look and replace within 300 hours . Grease gear spline and pull prop and grease spline while your there.Leg isn't that hard to drop, ie 6 bolts , disconnect gear selector and vacuum hose. Inspect fluid levels in batterys ,top up if necessary and make sure connections are clean. Cheers, nev

Posts: 307

Date Joined: 01/09/09

self service

Thu, 2011-07-14 22:08

Agree with Nev very easy to do and I've always done all my own servcing on boats , only thing I'll add is that I shorten the hours for replacement parts intervals ,things like plugs, oils and even water pumps arent that expensive so I do it as a bit of insurance ..

Cheers fishfish..

 

Posts: 193

Date Joined: 04/02/09

Hours

Thu, 2011-07-14 22:32

Hi fish
I went a bit high on the hours only because I think Adam does big hours quickly like myself when I fish out of Carnarvon , I usually do over 50 in a week or so, but going back south I'd be lucky to do that in 6 months. Personally I think Dealer servicing is a joke , absolute rip off and they don't do a lot of what they say! Cheers!

Posts: 341

Date Joined: 10/08/09

more than you would think

Thu, 2011-07-14 22:41

plugs, filter(s), engine oil/filter, gear oil, impeller and any necessary pump surrounds depending on wear n tear, thermostat out and tested, inlet manifold vacuums checked if required,all grease points nipples, drive/prop shafts, steering if cable greased, check trim/tilt fluids, check anodes, clean off block and electrics of any salt build up and a plug into the laptop if newer model. actually fairly easy if you have no dramas with engine in first place.

on a side note in a boat yard or having a qualified bloke look at your boat, your trailer, boat and all electrics, should get a very good going over so you are aware of any dramas, or upcoming costs that need to be rectified

All above should be done on 100hrs or twelve months whichever rolls over first

fisho-ron's picture

Posts: 2539

Date Joined: 26/09/09

not sure on this onei do my

Thu, 2011-07-14 22:21

not sure on this one

i do my own engines and even rebuilt my stroked 383 chev in my hotrod myself(ecept for machining) and i dont think the fourstoke o/boards would differ greatly, so a basic service would not be a problem i would think.

 

the thing i would be concerned about is not having the computor print out which is avail on all the late modle engines these days.

this gives you a world of info you might not know about.. for example

on my etec we picked up that it missed a couple of pulses from the oil pump, which inturn was replaced under warranty because it was faulty.

what would of happened if it shit itself while going full noise???

already had an engine bearing drop on a yammy to an oil issuse.

mechanical failures are not covered under your warranty or insurance.

be aware!!

 

 

Posts: 341

Date Joined: 10/08/09

fisho ron

Thu, 2011-07-14 22:30

on the money, motor dealers are phasing out marine mechanics doing cash jobs in there own time and the joe blo doing his own work on his outboard at home because of software availability, can do the service no worries just not check ecm codes/faults

smash's picture

Posts: 434

Date Joined: 01/12/10

get a manual from this mob

Thu, 2011-07-14 23:04

recrepairinfo.com

 

Got the manual for my yamaha from them, <$9, downloaded online Paypal.

Not sure what outboard you have but if they dont list it email them. My 115 wasnt listed, emailed and they put it up in 20 minutes.

Yammies at least use bucket shims on the valves like an older toyo diesel. Extremely strong and reliable but a bit of a pain to adjust.

Everything is detailed in the manual I got. I was amazed cos when I went to buy a hardcopy yam manual it covered 25 to 200 hp or something stupid, this is specific to my outboard and year.

Cant beat it!

 

 

Fishoron-"mechanical failures are not covered under your warranty"-not sure what you mean by this, isnt that what warranty is for?

fisho-ron's picture

Posts: 2539

Date Joined: 26/09/09

smash heading out from

Fri, 2011-07-15 06:54

smash

 heading out from woodys 1 k from the ramp our engine started a squilling nosie, i stop, check the engine and find shit around the prop, clear that away and restart the engine, noise still there so i turn around and start heading back and the engine locks up and sizes.(dropped a bearing on the crankshaft)

when checked out by the boat shop/insurer we were told if the oil pump had failed this is a mecahnical failure and would not be covered, luckaliy there was nothing wrong with the pump and was deemed that the shit around the prop had loaded up the engine to much and they did pay out.........

also on that note, make sure on your insurance you have itemized the cost of motor,hull, trailer electrics seperate. we didnt and just had the whole package insured for $45k

at the time we had a 200 2st yammy and replacement for that engine would of been over $10k second hand if you could find one.  they payed us out market value witch started at $3500 until i cracked the shits and a member on here in the game  helped us out with a written letter stating that that engine was worth at least double that as a second hand unit, they ended up paying us $5200 from memory witch was about $10k short on buying a new demo etec at the time

overheating is covered only if there is a cause for it like picking up a bag or something like that, if its due to you not servicing your engine at the requied times will not be covererd and trust me they can tell when they pull the engine apart for inspection.

mecanical failure example..

let say you crusing along and mid revs and for an unknow reason the motor just dies and will not start again, you get it to the boat shop and they have found a hole in the top of your piston, this is classed as a mecanical failure and will not be covered.

but please do check with your insurer as they all differ and go through every senario with them and make sure its on paper, if they can find a back door that has not been locked they will open it a go through very quickly and there nothing you can do about it.

cheers ron

Posts: 730

Date Joined: 29/05/08

I think you'll find that

Fri, 2011-07-15 07:51

I think you'll find that mechanical failures ARE covered by warranty if the servicing is kept up to date from new for the prescribed period.

I think you'll find mechanical failures ARE NOT covered by insurance.

 

 

Dean

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smash's picture

Posts: 434

Date Joined: 01/12/10

what fisherking said

Fri, 2011-07-15 12:20

yeah understand that Fishoron-it was where you said warranty (not insurance) doesnt cover mechanical failure.

fisho-ron's picture

Posts: 2539

Date Joined: 26/09/09

yes sorry guys my bad i meant

Fri, 2011-07-15 16:53

yes sorry guys my bad

i meant by insurance as well.

Posts: 167

Date Joined: 02/11/09

Do all my own servicing my

Fri, 2011-07-15 01:03

Do all my own servicing my self aswell. You can buy the genuine spares from the states for cheep. I think its around $800 for a full service these days and if you do big hours it adds up quick - especialy with twins. If a fault came up I would definatly take it in but i've never had that happen with my suzukis.

Cheers!

Lastchance's picture

Posts: 1273

Date Joined: 02/02/09

$800, that would be nice.

Fri, 2011-07-15 08:37

$800, that would be nice. Must cost $350 to freight up a few litres of oil and spark plugs to Karratha. 

I guess we are all overpaid and uneducated labour voters up here though.....

THE GERMAN's picture

Posts: 607

Date Joined: 20/07/06

i do

Fri, 2011-07-15 01:47

 all my own services my boats 6 years old ,oil ,replace the washer and nut ,fuel filter spark plugs ,water filter ,replace seals in the steering learnt it all myself and runs a dream since i brought her!and its cheap!

Posts: 193

Date Joined: 04/02/09

Sierra

Fri, 2011-07-15 03:23

 Just a question on the servicing outboards, anyone use Sierra after market filters, oil etc? Got talking to some guy a couple of months ago and he stated that they are good quality parts.  Cheers nev

Posts: 4580

Date Joined: 01/02/10

I buy all my parts out of the

Fri, 2011-07-15 07:47

I buy all my parts out of the US. Bought the diagnostic program and have a stand alone laptop for this job.

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smash's picture

Posts: 434

Date Joined: 01/12/10

hey dodgy

Fri, 2011-07-15 12:29

what outboard? Been looking (not very hard I must admit) for a source for Yammy parts over there, who do you use?

Many efi outboards (not sure if all) flash the code on the gauges anyhow, on my yam its a series of flashes of engine symbol, say 2 then 3 then a gap is code 23. Just need to ring a dealer then or get a list of the code numbers.

scottnofish's picture

Posts: 1621

Date Joined: 28/08/07

these guys are really helpfull when it comes to

Fri, 2011-07-15 12:55

 parts and faults , 1/3 of the price you pay here http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/

Posts: 27

Date Joined: 23/02/11

Change a Honda Impeller is easy

Fri, 2011-07-15 19:34

Scano,

 

I see you are looking to do a honda 40 Impeller.

Step one.

 

Using (I think) two 10mm open ender, break the shift rod bolts apart. The shift rod is accessible about 3/4 of the way up the leg, near the transom on the right side looking from the rear. One is a long nut and the other is a short nut. The short locks the long in place. Once you back the short one off a touch, just undo the long one, I think it goes up, until the rod is in two parts. Might have to put it in reverse to get enough room.

 

Then to the prop end. Lift the motor. You will see 4 bolt heads. I think its a 14mm or 16mm socket for this. Undo them just a little, so they are loose.

 

Take the sacraficial annode off and soak in soapy water. I think 12 mm socket. Under there there is a 12 or 14 mm bolt. Take it out.

 

Undoe all 4 bolts being very careful not to have the leg fall. Usually they dont. Usually at this point you have to hit the leg a bit with a rubber mallet. Might be salted on so hit it a bit and HOLD ONTO IT. They are costly.

 

When it falls off, you will see the drive shaft with a little black box on top of the gear box. Undo the bolts on the box and CAREFULLY lift the lid. I say carefully as there is a "key" in the impeller. When you lift the impeller off, you drop it and then wonder why when you put it back the thing dont work.

 

Remove impeller (and all the gaskets.)  I have never replaced the body kit on mine  (2001 Honda 50) OR the gaskets. so I just remove the box, remove the impller give it all a wash, and clean replace grease everyting, new impeller ensure key is in and do it all up If you are going to do that dont remove gaskets. But you can buy a kit and just replace everything. When you put the impeller on the shaft, as it comes into place replace the key with the big side of the key going into the flat spot on the drive shaft. Not a good description but easy to see.

 

I always use some light grease on the impeller and then fit the box. I use vasso or something just because. Make sure you do the box bolts up in a cross pattern and tighten them up hard. If it allows air in becasue its not tight enough you suck air not water.

 

CLean the top of the gearbox and the little lugs up a bit.

 

Then Gently work the gear box back onto the leg. Take your time. You think you have things in the right hole, but make sure you do. If it wont go back on gently spin the prop as you work it back on. You will have to sort of jiggle it about so the exhaust lines up at top and bottom and the gear shaft goes into the motor, but it will happen. Take your time.

 

Once it latches back in get all 5 bolts in and  then tighten in a cross pattern.

 

Put the gear lever back together. If you only lowered the short or thin nut a few turns its easy to put the big one back down to about the right setting and then tighten the lower one (or thinner one up to the bigger one. Make sure its tight and you then check it goes into and out of all gears. May have to spin the porp to do this

 

Rub the anode with sand paper and refit. Jobs done in less than an hour

This is where I get parts. Takes about 2 to 3 weeks but are 1/2 the Aus cost of parts

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/parts.html

This site will give you good advice if you need help

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/forum.php

 

Hope that helps

 

Chris

Posts: 341

Date Joined: 10/08/09

sierra parts

Fri, 2011-07-15 19:36

can vouch for them never had any dramas with the aftermarket impellors

iana's picture

Posts: 652

Date Joined: 21/09/09

Internal anodes

Sat, 2011-07-16 07:38

I think some motors have internal anodes in the cooling system, havn't found much on the net about this, anyone know more about this?

Just had another look on the net, there is quite a mention of these anodes quote"Be sure to inspect and replace the internal zinc anode on your Honda outboard motors. It is a small anode in the water jacket. It is so small that is goes fast if you spend any time in salt" from another forum.

I think it will be a bit like the grease nipple you can't reach, no one else will reach it either, the threaded fitting for the anode will probably be siezed solid.

Is this just a motor service, or is it the whole boat & trailer unit?

bouttime's picture

Posts: 703

Date Joined: 27/07/06

Just had 400hr service done

Sat, 2011-07-16 08:04

Just had 400hr service done on my suzuki and part of this was to replace the internal anodes. Very easy on the suzuki as you just remove the bolts and replace the 4 anodes. Once I am out of warranty will start to do my own.

iana's picture

Posts: 652

Date Joined: 21/09/09

Just had another surf.

Sat, 2011-07-16 08:18

Pinched (borrowed this picture off another forum, yes your anodes look easy. I'm just mentioning these internal anodes as some of us will not be aware of them.