Re-cabling batteries
Had a problem last Tuesday out at sea. Couldn't start my Suzuki DF250 motor.
Managed to start easily back home with a different battery connected directly to the motor, and then started easily on the existing battery/ies connected directly.
Pulled out the old cables and found severe corrosion on the lugs particularly on the earth cables so I have decided to replace all cables from the batteries
Question would you use 25mm2 (3 B&S) tinned cable or 2 B&S (32mm2) not tinned.
I believe both can handle the approx starting current of about 100 amps. I intend to solder the cable, crimp with an hydraulic crimper and then solder the open end of the lug to exclude moisture and will also seal over the sleeve of the lugs with glue lined heat shrink.
Also have a 180 watt solar panel which is currently connected in parallel on a 2nd battery switch. Can anyone advise if this is the correct way to connect a solar panel
Thanks in advance for any answers
Eric
Don't spend all your money on beer, boats, and fishing. Save some to spend foolishly
johns303
Posts: 12
Date Joined: 17/09/15
I wouldn’t solder the cable
I wouldn’t solder the cable first, it will compress the solder in the lug and create a loose connection over time (if you can even get a decent crimp on it after soldering) Crimp only, then solder the open end of the crimp if you like, the glue backed heat shrink will be beneficial also.
Rob H
Posts: 5807
Date Joined: 18/01/12
Sounds as though you dont
Sounds as though you dont have a dual battery setup, probably a wise investment on an outboard of that size?
Johns right though, solder after crimping.
If the cable is tinned its easy, not tinned then tin it first (solder end and shake solder off while still molten.
100 amps-I would have maybe expected a bit higher than 100 amps peak, but its only very short duration.
When it was starting ok, did you get electronics dropping out/beeping when starting?
If so thats a warning sign something may not be 100%, say dodgy cable/earth/battery condition, cable size etc
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Sulo
Posts: 256
Date Joined: 13/08/11
In a wet and salt water
In a wet and salt water environment tinned wire is the only way to go, copper wire is always going to be temporary.
Shark1
Posts: 1086
Date Joined: 21/05/12
on a run on most boats under
on a run on most boats under 2m 3b&S is fine
Gotta be tinned
I always thought im the bloke - crimped then soldering
seems i was wrong, young bloke comes onto the boat im engineer on 12 years ago and show me articles on testing done
solder wicks into the wire - then also because of annealing action of heat softens and weakens copper makes it bend more -right next to where the crimp is - which leadsto a weakspot right next to connection where u also cut open the wire insulation sure u getting where this is going
that with the flux in the solder leads to a very high rate of oxidisation in the copper makes for a weak connection -whre there is no insulation either to protect against salt spray or stop it bending
solder is out in both the marine and automotive market low voltage and aerials- just looks at your car wiring/ factory outboard fittings its not crimped to only save money
crimp - crimp only and get a good crimper - the $7.50 special with some crimp on connectors included aint it!
decent crimpers mostly look a bit like boltcutters
ericl i have crimpers and some others odds - probably some lugs i buy em in quantity , i then use a good water inhibiting grease - rocol product-not specifically made for it but boy it works and a waterproofing tape over it
theresa north sea oil rig where we did "exposed connections to a crane starter motor like this - 7 years on the rest has rusted but the bolted straight onto our connectors when they rpelaced the motor
if u need to borrow pm me
put money on it- if u cut of the first 7- 15cm of the existing cables they will work might even be less, the factory cable on the suzis is good cable imo
Ericl
Posts: 476
Date Joined: 02/05/11
Cheers for that
Don't spend all your money on beer, boats, and fishing. Save some to spend foolishly
Ericl
Posts: 476
Date Joined: 02/05/11
Cables replaced
Hi again
Quick update. Replaced both postive cables and the negative cable. All works great.
Starts on battery one, starts on battery 2 and starts on both. All with no sluggishness on the starter.
Also had instruments and radio on and none lost power during start, so pretty sure all is now good
Cheers - Eric
Don't spend all your money on beer, boats, and fishing. Save some to spend foolishly