Best call around dealers and mobile techs and see how many actually even work on them still..
Parts availability is tough on them. XD100 Oil needed for them super expensive. All this combined that they just have too many common faults - i.e. Computers, injectors, fuel pumps, exhaust valves etc etc
When theyre running and going, sure great engine. Plenty of power and great on fuel. But its for when they are not running.. which seems to be like a light switch and can stop all of a sudden."
I'd stay away 

I have had two, currently using a 40hp, while some may think the oil may be expensive I get 400 hours out of a 5ltr $115 bottle and it uses bugger all fuel. 10 ltrs is a big day out running engine all day long, most days less than that. Pretty good when fuel is $2.20 ltr, cost of a days fishing never a consideration for me. A 4 stroke needs a bottle of oil every service at any rate so no difference there!

Servicing is cheap compared to a 4 stroke, I do the gear oil every 300hrs get the mechanic to do a full service impeller etc every 600hrs cost about $500. 

Would I buy another.... If there was a good deal to be had yes. Though next new motor will be Yamaha. 

If your looking at Etecs, one of my neighbours is selling this

2000 JACKMAN 7.5m Hardtop (boatsales.com.au)

 I have owned two, both bought second hand one was totally problem free (small block V6) and other was not so (big block v6, but I should have known better, had issues that were just worse than expected).  It really comes down to what you want out of your engine, the more recent G1's are quieter than the early ones (still not sure why this matters to people any engine under load is noisy, there's a modest difference at idle), fuel efficiency isn't bad, low-mid rev range is never as good as a four, market doesn't love them and this will effect re-sale.

As far as parts and support goes, there is reducing support available locally but was never that strong anyway, Chivers will do servicing and have most of the specialist tools but don't carry extensive parts anymore as nolonger a dealer, Muhlings still offer full service (but are very busy) and there are a couple of others around.  Muhlings have good stock of almost all parts and if I want something quick are my first port of call (if it's not service parts then I just go to Chivers as they closer), if they dont have it then you are looking at mail order couple of places over east or crowley marine in the states (which can be both surprising cheap and quick, I've got parts landed here faster than I would have got them ex east) but try to support local first.  If you are the type to do your own maintenance (as I am) then these things are extremely easy to work on, can download software and build cables to read EMM (and more), shop manuals are available online and are easy to read and extensive between these two you should be able to diagnose or deal with most issues where a specialist tool isn't required.

What size motors are you likely to be looking at?  There are a few things that come up reasonably regular (these vary a little between models, i.e. the exhaust valve is a common one on the 115-135 and possibly 90 but cant remember, bigger ones don't have this but some have had regular issues with magnets on flywheels etc.) that are tell tales, if you have the software then they are easy to identify, motor should start and run smoothly, if it's difficult then injectors or power system are likely causes.  Injectors are usually a result of water in fuel historically or having sat for very long periods of time without fuel additive or being winterised.  Another tell tale is very high fuel usage at idle, the idle compensation will add fuel to compensate if spray pattern is bad or similar (these things, the bigger ones atleast, will run smoothly with as many as a couple of cylnders down, so get software and turn the idle compensation off) and issues will show up quickly.  Electrically if you are getting +55v out of the alternator when running and showing around 35V prior to start then electrical system is probably doing what it should.  While you are at it you'll be able to see historic fault codes.  Check oil lines to ensure not degraded.  Other than that checking compression and leg oil should tell you 95% of what you need to know and eliminate most of the more expensive problems, from a pre-purchase inspection perspective.

Bottom line is that these are no different to any other motor they have strengths and weaknesses but well maintained and regularly used will treat you well.  I clearly don't mind them others will have a different opinion but really comes down to what you are looking for, key reason I like them is they are very simple and easy to maintain/work on.  

Bought a nearly new glass boat (6.5m) with a 175 etec 6 years ago. It had 100 hours on it at purchase.

I had an intial problem with a seal at the top of the engine which leaked a little water. Took a while to identify the issue but easily resolved, it turned out be a manufacturing or initial fitting issue.

Since then I've put over 500 hours on the engine. The only subsequent issue was a tilt trim relay which I fixed myself cheaply with a part from ebay.

The cost of oil and service is not unreasonable and the rig returns good fuel efficiency and performance. It is extremely reliable, starts in a single revolution every time. 

It is noticeable that the number of dealers willing to provide a service is decreasing which would have to be a consideration if buying another. But, I wouldn't rule it out if the price was right.

doh

My previous boat (sold in April this year) had a 2008 75hp on it. People were immediately disinterested due to the motor but in all the years we had it, the only day i lost on the water due to the motor was due to a thermostat cover cracking and needing replacement, but i picked that up when topping up the oil the day before. 

I have no idea how many hours were on it and it largely sat for the first 5 years but in the 9 years we were running it (we got it from the old boy), we used it very very regularly and apart from the above never missed a beat. Never ran funny, never smelt funny, never sounded funny. 

I had a scare once when i noticed a brown substance at the bittom of the fuel tank and discovered it was water leaking in the breather on the tank. We emptied the tank, and i got the motor serviced with all filters replaced and there were no dramas. The joys of a small fuel tank (22l), it constantly had fresh fuel.

I only ever used the XD100 in it which was a pain in the arse to source but i ended up just buying in bulk. 

Servicing wise, I got it done at Seasport Marine. The last bit i needed before selling was some gauges (tacho which also has engine monitoring system in it and power trim/tilt) and they had trouble getting genuine parts, but it was a 15 year old motor. The motor came from them in the start.

Newer models should be better for parts I would assume and I believe BRP committed to the parts for a period of time. 

We had a very good run with the motor. Didnt flog it and flushed it until it warmed up every time and got pretty lucky with it.

So the story goes, the shitty etec's died early and the ones around now were the good ones.

Thanks for the feedback so far everyone. 

I'd say im somewhat handy on the tools and have always serviced and changed water pumps etc myself. Albeit up to a max of a 40hp outboard. So basic servicing/repairs I would tackle myself.  

I'm looking for something around the 6m mark so guessing around 150hp. The thing that rings in the back of the mind is that replacement cost for new at the moment is around 20k for 150hp and then north from there. It certainly weighs in if parts become sparce or you have something that is unreliable and you need to consider upgrading within 5 years. 

I have a 2010 130hp on my plate 5.8m - tipped over 450hrs this year, I've done ~200 of those.

I serviced it myself, not hard (I have a link for all of evinrude docs/manuals and software). Have done water pump / impeller and it was easy - same as any other.. 

It had the exhaust value seize on me over time (would not reach WOT, and max'd out at 4,800rpm), that was a mission! However taking my time I had it fixed up and running sweet. Fitted a grease nipple for lubrication (just like the newer (2010+) ones come with from factory) to aleviate future issues. All up cost me $50, a weekend and a coupe of nights - whereas Muhling quoted $2,500 or so for the work (labour intensive).. Lesson learnt, run it WOT for as much as you can.. Good for the race back to the ramp :) 

Another issue was a break in the wiring harness affecting starting - not engine specific, as it was a wiring issue/broken wire..

I have made up the cable and downloaded the software to read faults and run all the diagnostic tests. Only fault it has run was over heat alarm, thermostats were well overdue for a change, I also had 9 ppl in it in slop, working hard off plane...

We head north every year and I burn PLENTY of oil, but we do a over 110Nm & 200L a day, 3 up with all the gear/fish ice and water/beer with 240L of fuel - and roughly 3 hours a day at WOT. They are big days for a 5.8m boat! It backs up every day for a week.. just touches 34kts flat out trimmed up with the breeze behind you.

Just poking around, yep it's pretty measly on fuel and oil (uses half the fuel of my old 2 stroke yami). Great holeshot, midrange and it screams wide open. 

Oil is burnt at a ratio of 100:1, so you can work out how much you are going to burn in any trip. 

All figs are flat water:

32kts is 0.7 Nm /L (44L/hr)

30kts is .72 Nm /L (41.5L/hr)

27kts is .88 Nm/L (25 L/hr) 

20kts is .90 Nm/L (21.3 L/hr)

1Nm / L fairly consistently at 18kts in some choppy stuff, under that speed it's better still.

I would get another one, however make sure it's been serviced and there is no carbon build up (sticky exhaust valve).. Take one for a run, nothing to lose.

On a side note, my mate has twin 250 Mercs on his rig. 32hrs old he spat 1 gearbox outside of steep point. I know if another Zuke, brand new 300 died on it's first trip - they were also north and out of range.. Any engine has stories..  

 I've got a 60hp Etec, had it from new in 2007 and had a minor issue with the fuel pump developing a crack across the top, ebay and replacement from China for under $100 after a 4 week wait.

But mine is one of the early dark blue models and the cowling and chaps decided they don't like being in the sun for years up northand has cracks all over it resulting in me coating it with glass as not able to afford the $4300 for another new set and as soon as a white one comes into the wreckers its gone in minutes, so I'm not the only one with this fault. The white ones are unaffected.

Would I buy another, yes, no if and buts

 I had the 2005 75 Etec which I bought in 2015 with the boat. It had under 200hrs on it. I had it on the boat till the beginning of this year and put around 800 more hours on it.I had no problems besides a tilt trim needing replacing not long after buying it in 2016 I think from memory. Just bought another 2nd hand. Besides that an impeller failed at sea in 2021. Only trip ever needing assistance. Then in end of March coming back in after doing over 100km trip it went bang, a puff of smoke and knocking coming from top of motor. It still got me back to ramp at a slower speed. Took it to an Etec dealer and they said it's not really worth fixing. It was an 18yr old motor after all. Now I think I had an awesome run from that motor but wouldn't buy another mostly because of dwindling supply of parts and services. It was fantastic on fuel getting 100kms on less than 50litres on a good day driving sensibly. A little more on a rougher day. Now I've repowered with a 75hp Yamaha 4 stroke. Fuel consumption is actually very similar in real world use, close to identical. Though the Yamaha powers through the water so much better and more constant and stable.I don't have to constantly adjust the throttle like the Etec in rougher seas. It feels and is a much better performing all round. It feels like I also put trim tabs on its that much better. 

I know two other close friends who've had Etecs 115hp and 150hp and both had no trouble at all until around 800hrs-1000hrs, aprox 16-18 year old motors. Both repowered with new motors around 1000hrs.