Hi, I've just bought an anchor winch and am searching for some 25mm2 or 3awg copper cable to wire it up. Does anyone know of a supplier in the mandurah/rocko area who stock it. 25mm2 welding cable would be ideal, I need about 13m of it. Cheers

Another random act of pain from the gift that keeps on giving (the boat that is)

I have analog tacho's (factory) on a 250hp 4stroke Yam - have had no issues with previously until a few weeks back -
it now registers about 1500rpm above the "real rpm" - when you turn the ignition on the needle drops to zero but once started jumps up to 2200rpm (motor idling at correct speed)
I know they have a few switches on the back but before i start fiddling just thought i would ask if anyone has experienced anything similar?
cheers
Clint

Looking at buying a boat with my brother at the moment & the builder can offer us an ex-demo 115hp Mercury Optimax, so I'm after any advice if anyone has one or heard of any reports they can share. Couldn't find much with the search icon & Mercury's website states they're better than the e-tec in every department?? But nothing beat user feedback.

Cheers Fozz

Hi everyone,

Just wondering if anyone can give me the name of a good and not over priced person/company who could make me a bimini for my boat, a tree attacked mine in the winds and tore it. dont worry I killed the branch...

Only had one quote so far and thought it was super expencive..

Any help would be greatfull.

Tight lines people, or slack if you fish that way. :-)

Hi Guys, I have recently purchased a 2008 model Boston Whaler 255 Conquest. I have an issue with keeping the underdeck fishboxes (both port & starboard) dry, as they seem to be taking in reasonable water during a days trip. I use the fishboxes to store equipment that I wish to remain reasonably dry. I summarise as follows: (1) The fishboxes were dry at the start of the trip; (2) The drain plugs are in firmly and I can confirm no water is entering through the drain plugs at the bottom of the fishboxes. (3) Upon investigation it appears that the water is entering through the fishbox pumpout holes (which is used to pump water out of the fishboxes). It appears that the holes on the outside of the hull where the water pumps out of is actually also taking water back into the fishbox when these holes become slightly submerged during water travel. Can anyone please confirm this is the case (as I would expect there should be one way valves to stop this). Or is there another issue I am overlooking. Any advice on how to keep the fishboxes completely dry would be greatly appreciated.

I own a Quintrex Bay Hunter and have been doing a bit of beach launch and retrievals lately around Ledge Point and Horrocks, I have found that when bringing the boat in I cant really get the trailer in the water far enough and have to half drag the boat up the trailer which when a wave comes in tends to throw the boat off line and as a consequence the boat hits the guides and is causing damage to the front of the boat, has anyone got any ideas on how to modify the trailer so as to minimise damage. I am fairly new to the beach launching/retrieving so any help would be good.

 Have done a bit of a search around and some varied info on this so hoping to find some expert knowledge hereabouts. :)

 Whilst rinsing the motor out the other day with muffs on I noticed some water slowly coming out in two or three pinholes around the join where the gearcase is bolted to the driveshaft  housing (near the anti-ventilation plate).

 The water pump is running fine and have a good pressure stream from the indicator.

 It appears to be caused by some corrosion around the join, how serious is this? Some of the info on the Mercury forums indicate it isn't a major issue but thought I would ask some  opinions.

 Cheers

 Hebbs

G'day folks,

Having trouble getting a good operation from the transducer for the new Garmin 750s. As these photos show, I have fitted it, (with modifications to the bracket) to sit as per the manual. However, as soon as the boat reaches around 15kts, the depth starts to flash and  it stops recording. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Guys im about to replace the transom on my Baron Sportsman and are thinking of adding a pod and getting rid of the motor well and 2 formed rear seats to give me more Dek / Fishing Room

While doing this i will make the back deck flat and fit in live bait tanks and cupboard for batterys ect. 

Has anyone added a pod to there Baron and has it effected the way the boat handles or sits at rest . 

Any info would be greatly appreciated thanks

HI Guys after a bit of advise or maybe an Outboard mech can tell me how much to look at engine,

So I bought my little half cabin (not sure of boat make) 12 months ago, and have only been using it last few months due to RST and getting licences ect,

Any way my prob is that i am unsure of service history and dont wanna go too far from shore, as its always a problem to start (to the point i need to spray 'start ya bast**d) into motor to get it going,

it runs fine once running but can take a couple of tries to start up, can run up to 20 min no prob then once I m ready to move spots same prob every time,

Im not much mechanically minded so will require someone to fix , but kinda on a budget so would like some one to look at it and help me with what it could be and potential costs, I got it as a family boat but havent taken them out on it as yet due to starting probs, taken mates out but only to back of penguin is and the sound (playing it safe)

Am happy to pay to get it looked at it prefer to pay with some beers and hopeing someone will offer some cheap advise,

any help is appreciated.

Currently in the process of buying an early 90's Caribbean reef runner 6.3m with a 225 Optimax on the back of her..

Im thinking of downsizing and putting a 4 stroke on the back.. Would a 130hp - 150hp 4 stroke be enough to power this baby along??

Looking at her, Id say she would weigh a fair bit.. Pretty solid boat!!

Mainly be used up in Shark Bay/ Carnarvon around the islands for fishing n trolling..

Cheers

Damo

 Hey all,

Trying to get the trailer than is under my project boat over the pits and licenced so that I can more easily (legally) move it around. It is a really solid looking stainless steel trailer so I'm pretty keen to keep it, but don't want to blow too much of my project budget on it. The problem comes in that the trailer (1980s built) was registered under the old rules where gross mass could be up to 1000kg without brakes. Because licence has lapsed a couple of years ago I need to put it over pits, and the new rules require brakes for over 750kg (rig is about 920kg dry). 

I was initially not too worried as I'm handy with the tools and have replaced the whole running gear on my tinny trailer last year. Then I noticed that the hitch was offset downwards (see pic) from the top of the drawbar, and the mounting area is built for an unbraked hitch that is shorter than the braked hitches and has only 2 bolts down the central line rather than 4 (one in each corner) on braked hitches. So basically I need to figure out a way to mount a basic mechanical brake hitch securely to it so that it is level with the top of the drawbar.

Any ideas from some engineering, welding, diy types on the forum? Ideally ones that won't blow my budget out the water (so to speak).

Anyone got a Baron Sportsman windscreen with a frame in reasonable condition.

Hopefully someone has experianced similar problems and can give me some guidance. I have a furuno 585 bout 5 years old and lately it has been playing up by loseing image and/or depth recording often on a fishing trip. (Usually when i get to that secret spot). Have had the unit checked over once and the plugs replaced because some pins had broken, but still issues. Yesterday the guys checked out and passed the transducer, so its not that.

They are investigating if there is any updates for the unit.

One particular thing they found it does is when you change the range, it apparently impacts on the power to the unit.

Anyone else had similar issues?

I need a small repair on a broken rear ladder on my Trailcraft. The 50mm tube has cracked through so will need a couple of welds to fix it. It’s tough for the kids to get onboard without it. Need someone south of the river to do it. Any suggestions for a cashy or carton would be good.
Thanks Brad

Hey guys looking at upgrading the boat soon and wondering if anyone knows something that will fit my needs.

Usual good fishing boat qualities will be a must (good dry ride and stable at rest) would prefer a walkaround but a runabout with large deck area will suffice or even a center console with a console big enough to keep a couple people dry from a howling southwester.

Shed dimensions are 2.7 x 2.7m (door) and 7m long, from what ive seen around 5.7m will be the biggest that fits. Will be looking at both glass and ali.

any ideas on what will fit my needs???

PROPELLER WANTED FOR EVINRUDE V4 85hp

sizex13x19

little bit of damage ok, just want to get back into water why i wait for a new 1

OR IF ANY1 KNOWS A GREAT PLACE TO GET AFTER MARKET 2ND HAND OR CHEAP BRAND NEW LET ME KNOW

cheers guys

 Hey all, I'm just trying to plan the way forward with my project boat and thought I'd pick a few experienced builder/renovators brains for the best options for some of the main aspects. Project boat is an 80s Savage Lancer 530 runabout (pressed ally hull)

Painting

I had initially planned to do a full paint strip down to bare ally and then etch/prime and finally paint with a 2 pac polyurethane. I was going to apply the paint using the 'roll and tip' method as I don't have access to or much experience with spraying and also I'm on a small block with the boat on the drive and dont want to start drifting paint onto neighbours cars etc.

However, looking at the current (factory I think) paint a bit more closely, there are a lot of chips in the usual areas (bow, rails, corners), but overall it still seems to have a pretty good bond to the metal so I am wondering if I can get away with a very thorough sand down, etch the bare metal areas, high build prime and then overpaint. I realise that a full bare metal respray is always going to give better finish and lifespan, but this is a budget renovation so things like sandblasting, professional respray are pretty much out of the question. Also, having read a few of the rebuild threads on here, paint stripping seems like a real nightmare.

Deck

Current deck (warped and rotten) is 12mm Ply consisting of 4 main pieces and 3 small bilge access panels screwed down to the aluminium deck stringers. Previous owner has already cut new pieces of ply for the two main sections and should be pretty easy for me to cut out the rest using old sections as templates. After that though, I have found a lot of conflicting and confusing info on the correct/best way to seal and cover the ply. Main queries are...

1. Where is the best place to buy 12mm Marine Ply? Bunnings had some but not big enough panels to cut out the sections I need.

2. What should I use to seal the ply? I've seen recommendations of Poly resin, single layer fibreglass matt with resin, nothing! At the moment I'm leaning towards the single layer of glass, but if this is uneccessary or there is another way that avoids having to handle glass matt then I'm all for it?

3. What should I use for the final deck covering? Initial plan was for ribbed marine carpet glued down to the sealed ply. However, I've been looking into alternatives like removable tube matting (as used in Baden01's Swiftcraft rebuild), but not sure what I would cover the ply below with (gelcoat?)

FLotation

When I removed the two front sections of deck, there were some ugly-looking offcuts of hard, yellow foam stuffed randomly between deck stringers. I assume this is what was under all the deck sections but had been chucked by previous owner. What should I use to replace it? I want something that can be easily removed to clean/check under deck. There is an aussie company (Thermotec) that makes pool noodle type insulation with a fire retardant in it that I was considering, as it would be easy to cut short sections to fit between stringers and then maybe bind them together with PVC tape for easy removal. Otherwise I could try make molds for that expanding pourable foam (would I need to cover the blocks with something to avoid reacting with the ally?). Any other ideas? 

Sorry about the long-winded post - any advice on one or more of these aspects will be appreciated though.

Hey guys,

I am looking at importing a new electric and was wondering if anyone had done this before?? if so what duties did you have to pay?? and were there any other issues with  getting one sent from overseas??

Cheers Steve

Hello all. i am in need of some help.

I bought a 7m boat at the beginning of september from a dealer in Mandurah. The boat has a 150 hp Mercury 2 stroke on the back that i was told was stripped down and re built in 2010. The engine was sold to me with 48 hours on the clock since the rebuild. I was told by the dealer that the engine was mechanically A1 and would serve me well for the next 5-10 years if looked after.

Last sunday we broke down and i have been told that the cylinder block is cracked and i am looking at a $5000 + repair bill. I have put no more that 6 hours on the boat since i have had it and to be honest i am gutted. After buying the boat i did every thing properly, bought an epirb, flares, life jackets etc etc. I joined fremantle sea rescue and insured it with club marine so i have no spare money to repair my boat that is now usless.

I have spoken to a guy called James from Collings marine who says that he has a second hand cylinder block but has quoted about $5000 to do the job. I was wondering if anyone on here has used Collings marine in the past and do i have any comebacks on the boat dealer. I just thought i would ask as i am all out of ideas.

Leighton

Hi Guys,

Been lurking around here for a while but only just got around to signing up. Have had a makes old Seeker FG runabout on loan for a few months and it has really given me a taste for getting out on the water so Ive started looking for something of my own. Budget at the moment is around $10k and it has to be 5m or under as thats all the room ive got without knocking down my patio. Im leaning towards ali at the moment but am open to glass but I only have a Forester to tow it with and while it tows the boat im using at the moment it uses about 1/3 of a tank just to get to woodies so its going to be a bit over the top If I wanted to head further afield. Is there any hulls that anyone can recommend? Is it better to stick with the usual Quinnie/Stacer/Savage offerings?

Cheers

Hi all, I am chasing a power trim motor new or used, on the off chance someone has one. It is a 3 wire, 3 ram setup with square motor housing and 2 bolt mount to pump. Or if anyone knows a good place to get one let me know .

Cheers

Terry

after a few options people

im chasing a newer boat. upgrade to something to sleep on do some island hopping.. prefferbly with a toilet over 6mts mostly for fishing

id love to do trip to the monte bellos or something along those lines

i like the look of the whittley walkaround clearwater looks the goods

what does everyone else out there have what options are there out there?

any help is would be great

cheers christian

after a few options people

im chasing a newer boat. upgrade to something to sleep on do some island hopping.. prefferbly with a toilet over 6mts mostly for fishing

id love to do trip to the monte bellos or something along those lines

i like the look of the whittley walkaround clearwater looks the goods

what does everyone else out there have what options are there out there?

any help is would be great

cheers christian

Although I have been more than happy with my tinnie over the last couple of years, there is no getting away from the fact that it is a pretty small and basic boat, and I had found myself longing for just a bit more space, stability and protection out on the water. Also, I figured the missus and some other non-serious fisho friends might be more keen to come out with me in a bigger, more comfortable tub.

Anyway, a few weeks back I was browsing the used boat ads on Gumtree and was coming to the conclusion that my budget (non existent really) wouldn't really stretch to anything much better, when I came across an ad for a what looked like a pretty decent old ally runabout that had been left sitting by its owner for the last few years at what seemed like a bargain price. On a spur, I gave the seller a call and headed straight out to have a look at it.

Condition was a bit disappointing, the paint was flaking and powdery, wooden sole (deck) was scrap (although the seller had already cut out new marine ply to replace the main sections), the windscreen was in pieces, and the donk on the back was looking very tired. Then I started to see the potential, the hull looked solid, the layout and space felt pretty good, and there was a very well built stainless steel trailer underneath it. After some negotations with my own 'minister of finance' and the seller, I was towing it back to my place the next day.

So here it is, a late 80s (I think) Savage Lancer 530 runabout, that will be my project for the next few months as I try to transform it into a comfortable, reliable and affordable upgrade from my tinnie.

Haven't had a chance to do much on it over the Xmas/NY break due to other priorities, but will be getting stuck in from now. Will definitely be looking for some advice and guidance from any experienced renovators and DIYers on some aspects of the project like painting, deck replacement and eventually repowering and fitout. In the meantime, if you have any general advice or ideas, please feel free to share.

Gday Guys

I have just bought a savage snipe with a 15hp merc 2 stroke (2003). the motor was running fine yesterday and did half a tank ,starting first pull everytime! I was giving it 2 pumps on the bulb with the prime pulled out then on starting/firing pushing it in on initial start and then just one pull it would start(no priming). when i came home i took the cover off and checked the plugs which were only hand tight. i set the gaps to 1mm and retighened them. I cleaned the fuel filter out and changed the oil in the leg. It will fire up with prime/choke out then ill push it in  and will run for 5 seconds then cut out!? the fuel is a week old and the motor made good power on the ocean. any ideas please ?? ive checked the tank breather and its clear!

Gday Guys

I have just bought a savage snipe with a 15hp merc 2 stroke (2003). the motor was running fine yesterday and did half a tank ,starting first pull everytime! I was giving it 2 pumps on the bulb with the prime pulled out then on starting/firing pushing it in on initial start and then just one pull it would start(no priming). when i came home i took the cover off and checked the plugs which were only hand tight. i set the gaps to 1mm and retighened them. I cleaned the fuel filter out and changed the oil in the leg. It will fire up with prime/choke out then ill push it in  and will run for 5 seconds then cut out!? the fuel is a week old and the motor made good power on the ocean. any ideas please ?? ive checked the tank breather and its clear!

hi guys im in the process of starting to search for a new (used) boat. im after a walkaround a decent size (6m+) but am on a tight budget of $25000 could anyone tell me some older style walkarounds in the lower price range? thanks

Gday fellas

Havent been out in the boat for 6 months or so due to shoulder surgery and was wondering what I should do with the 50 - 70 ltr of fuel still in the tank. Should I put an additive in the tank like stabil or suck it out and keep it for the mower and bikes.

Cheers Nev

Need some work done on a 96 ocean pro and would prefer it done by someone who really knows their stuff with those engines.