Hello Raymarine Folk

 Axiom 9 Pro with B175M and Rv-100. I posted them in the Sounder Shots thread at the start of this section, to keep them all in the one place.  fishwrecked.com/forum/sounder-photos

Hey guys I have a dragonfly 4 pro which shows alot of noise and jaggered ground at 5knots, as there seems to be alot of turbulance at that speed, when I start to get up on the plane it smooths out and is good but when I slow down to look at ground it seems to be just alot of colour and not very readable is this normal, I have the tranducer pointing down. 

 Hi fellas, 

New to this forum, hopefully I'll be able to contribute in helping others as I've been helped in other forums. 

Hoping someone had come across this before. I am currently updating my electronics and have a furuno Airmar B744V transducer and would like to keep it if possible with my new axiom pro RVX. I'm hoping the following:

1- it can be done and this transducer is capable with the axiom pro RVX

2- I don't see any adapter cables for 10 to 11 pin, if I have to splice then so be it ,but trying to avoid it. 

3-if this transducer isn't compatible with the axiom pro RVX ,thru means of a simple adapter or splice, then is there a similar(size, power, etc)transducer I can drop in to the current slot so I'm not doing any additional fabrication? 

Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, can anyone help, basically when out on the water my sounder works well at around 6 knots then becomes unreadable after that, what things can I do to improve. 

 Hey crew I've just started to do a bit of night fishing so I've been recording a track when I leave the ramp when I follow it back in I'm struggling to keep my boat on the recorded track it seems to have a delay any advice will be appreciated cheers Luke

Really good sized nannys, queenies, 8 Bar and pinks

 I posted a fair while ago about the problem of having what seemed like an OAT reading on my MFD's, rather than seawater temp. Going into either of the transducer setup pages told me the actual TD temp, but gave me a message this was not the preferred source. This only happened with the ignition on. I unplugged a Temp-marked  sender up near the control loom, no difference. Raymarine forum told me the TD should be the preferred source. No help.

It was picking up the TD when ignition off, wave a heat gun at it and temp rose. So, today, I decided to investigate further--no manual selection of temp source in menu, but there was one for speed through water, and it was a Merc device. "oh, that would be that paddlewheel sitting coiled up in the well. " Wonder if this has a temp sender in it? Unplugged, turned ignition on, problem gone. And when I crawled under the back to tidy up, I find it is labelled on the loom "paddlewheel/water temp."  

So, if you have mounted the paddlewheel supplied, you would have had no problems. I felt I didn't need it,so it sat in the well, to be dealt with "later".

new transducer and updated to the lighthouse 3 software. . few fish marked on the troll aswell as some bottom fish.

hi. Can anyone identify what function each of the sounder wires performs.

hey fellas, I recently had lighthouse 2 software on my ES128/98 and updated to lighthouse 3 yesterday. im out blue marlin fishin for the next few days so just wondering if you got any tips for settings and the likes? When I used the lighthouse 2 I use to have it displayed on zoom and just look at the top 80m of water but I seem to cant find that option when scrolling through the menus?

 I'm up at Exmouth atm, for the Billfish Bonanza. Things have been pretty windy, anthough we got reasonable lulls on Monday and tuesday. Blew all day yesterday, and today doesn't look much better. Anyway, on the way home Tuesday,  I drove over the new artificial reef just north of the marina, to try out the sidescan.I only spent a couple of minutes there, and this is the result. Theupper two shotsare the big steel structures, and the lower one, just the concrete pyramids. Depths are in fathoms, so its about 18 metres deep. You can see on the first shot how i've gone more or less dead centre over one, and the next one down, how i've almost missed it, not really showing on the RH side, mainly just the fish around it.

 Just want some advice and reports of any one who has an axiom. Im looking at getting one later this week. I mainly fish for snapper, kingfish in 5 meters to 40 meters and its going on a 5 meter aluminium boat that i also chace gamefishn in Exmouth about 3 weeks a year. Any tips, comments would be appreciaited. 

Installed the B275LHW transducer with hi speed fairing. Had a cruise in the sound and from my test i get a tiny bit of cavitation when turning portside at speed. Lose about 3 knots in speed but still get 40knots, stops reading depth around 33knots. Havnt fished with her yet, but she will get a good test at montes next week

 I didn't get around to posting these after the Ningaloo trip this year. Ignore the water temp readout, turns out is was picking the Mercury gateway OAT temp as the signal. I seem to have fixed that by unplugging the temp sensor, it's now picking up the B175M. I started out with a cluttered screen, with A-scope, then eventually settled on a good clean layout.

I spent a fair bit of time playing with settings--Auto gain and Auto Power generally don't suit me. Auto power had me beat for a while, I couldn't work out why I was getting these sudden variations in picture when trolling out deep, until I worked out it was the auto power. I settled on about 40% ( 1KW) and I was clearly marking fish and bottom hardness variations at 100m so there is plenty of power. I have bad interference at speed, whch I largely put down to installing the transducer cables alongside all the rest of it going down the back. I did it because I think the cable will be too short to run the other way, and I'll need an extension to do it.

 Gday all,

Just wondering if anyone could shed some light on why my Dragonfly Pro 7 inch loses bottom on my 3.7m tinny once I go over about 8 knots?

I have it mounted on the starboard side half way between the leg and side, on the flat in between the hull ribs on an adjustable transom mount bracket. 

Thanks in advance

 I've have been unable to get my new Merc to talk to the Raymarine network and display engine info the the Axiom displays. It is connected via Seatalk adaptor cable to the NMEA 2000 network, which otherwise, works perfectly. There is a process for initial connection to the engine on the display, simple enough, but the network can't see it. All Smartcraft settings re data connection are as recommended-gateway set to NMEA 2000, and Transmit.

I noticed someone on THT having exactly the same problem, but with dual mercs and the dual engine gateway. he's been doing exactly the same thing, we've had some advice which didn't change things, then, today, he posts this

I have an update and thought I would share in case someone is going through the same issue. I have been discussing this issue with Raymarine on and off the past week. They seemed particularly focused on the 3rd party gateway (engines) are not producing a standard NMEA 2000 chit-chat and thus the Axiom wasn't listening. I have since renovated my network by throwing a lot of money at it for components and cables, and still no identification of engines on the Axiom setup page. I gave up for the time being with the hopes that a new LH version may in fact cure this. Out on the water today playing with the Axiom screens I chose the default Dashboard. To my surprise the screen is immediately populated with RPMs, pressures, temps, and fuel burn rates from both engines! Whaaaat? Apparently I didn't need to identify the engines in the Axiom setup at all. The info was just there the whole time on the network. Silly me. I am learning a lot about NMEA 2000 the past couple of weeks. Interesting.

I'll be interested to try it when I get home.

 Had my first chance to have a look at this today. i was mostly slow trolling, playing around with settings.

No trolling action on the deep divers with these, although i did drop a sabiki rig on some of the obviously smaller fish and pulled two strings of scalies up. So I did some bait fishing in closer, on this No result, though. The behaviour of these fish made me think they weren't buff bream, which can give big showings in close up here. Anyway, whatever they were, they were able to ignore fresh scalies on snelled circles , lightly weighted. This is ground which has given me a lot of big pinks in years past. These were later, just looked like good bait showings. 

 I’ve just fitted a tm265lh transducer to a cp450c module and then to my e97 mdf this is what I’m getting when I try to select transducers any ideas? 

Hi guys.

I am looking t trading up my old Humminbird Piranha Max 160 to a Dragonfly 4dv.

Its going into an old DeHavilland 3.8m. I fish a lot of river snags as well as going out after whiting from good sand patches.

I havent been able to find ny detils on the dimensions of the trasnducers.

Cn nyone please be so kind as to help me out on this one.

Cheers

 Couple of interesting sounder shots from wide yesterday. We didn't manage anything for this so not really sure what it was, although I think I'm seeing individual large fish amongst it.

We managed to get a bait down through it as you can see in the secound shot but we were set up for bottom bouncing and I think this probably needed some gigs...

What do you blokes think this is??

G'Day, I need an electronics guru... The male pins in the plug of my Dragonfly 7 have corroded and snapped off. From a bit of googling, this seems to be a common problem with this unit. I have been in touch with the national distributor, and their nominated repairer, as well as a couple of marine electronics places locally and the message is the same. Sealed unit, built to a price, and cannot be repaired. This is bloody annoying as I like the unit, yes cheap and cheerful, but does a very good job in shallow stuff (<30m), and on my boat it sits neatly beside my Lowrance unit and they don't interfere with one another while sounding, in fact work very well together, giving me a large number of combinations of functions. Long story short, I don't want to bin the Dragonfly if I can help it! Does anyone have any ideas? Surely it can't be that hard to replace a plug? Any and all help or suggestions gratefully received.

 I'm starting this new thread because I'm going to mount 3 transducers through hull (wet faced) on my Cruisecraft Outsider 575

The components are ordered and will start to arrive this week and include:

• Axiom Pro9 RVX with AU/NZ Nav+ card
• Set of RV220 thru hull Transducers
• Airmar PM265LM transducer - eta 3 weeks

This will be coupled with my existing mercury Vesselview7 and NMEA2000 GPS antenna via NMEA2000 backbone and hopefully the Mercury data will be available across the network.

I have a Navionics platinum card already so the Vesselview can mostly be used for navigation and the Axiom for split screen sounder across the 5 available Sounder channels. This will afford me traditional down and side scan, Realvision 3D, High chirp at 600w, low and medium chirp at 1 Kw

This project will involve the following main parts and I intend to do the whole thing myself:

1. Manufacture a GRP pocket for the CM265
   1. I'll be 3D printing a 2mm larger copy of the transducer for use as a plug to mould the pocket.
2. Cut the Hull and glass the pocket into the hull for an almost flush finish in the Keel for the PM265LM
3. Drill holes and install the two Raymarine RV220 Transducers
4. Run transducer wiring and rewire the dash accordingly
5. Cradle mount the Axiom and waterproof the cable penetrations
6. Relocate the Bilge pump and possible the inline fuel filter.
7. Reconfigure the two rear most sets of inner rollers on the trailer to clear the RV220
   1. This will probably require welding and re-galvanising which is a bugger because I've just refurbished and re-galvanised the trailer
8. Finally Commission the system and get the NMEA talking so the Mercury data is available to the Axiom and waypoints are created on both screens simultaneously from either screen

I'm hoping this will give me an excellent fishing sounder setup and will post this up as I go for the interest of FW members. I tend to get my teeth stuck into a project so hopefully I'll take the time to document the progress for your entertainment and a good historical record of the buildup of my boat called "Ball Breaker"

Thanks to all you've given me guidance along the way to choosing this path, it's been a long road with hours of reading/research and waiting for the release of this Raymarine gear, to finally take the plunge and invest into a new setup. I have two very young kids and don't get that much fishing time, I'm also new to fishing and it didn't take me long to want good eyes in the water so I can get the most out of my boat and fishing time spent on it.

Plans:

I started with surveying the bilge section of my boat which is a double skinned type with the inner bilge part of the deck moulding. This has raised sides which turn outwards to to compartments for battery and pumps on the Starboard and second battery and storage on the port. The CC hulls have a flat keel or planing board which is about 145mm at the rear and a 20 degree deadrise.

The options were a single RV transducer on the keel with two 20 degree B175 chirp transducers on the sides. Didn't love this option because the RV transducer would be exposed in the rearmost position on the keel, especially for rearward beaching, and the two off 175s are expensive.

Chosen option is the pocket mount 265 in the keel with the 20 degree offset RVs at sides. I liked this better because I think the 265 will get the best water and least hull induced airbubbles in the keel at the cost of trailer mods to get rollers clear of the RVs. Not to mention the considerable extra work involved in glassing a large pocket into the keel of my boat.

Bilge plan to scale (Updated with changes to scale and delete Raw intake 31-10)

Project

1. Manufacture a GRP pocket for the CM265
   1. Manufacture a plug to mould the pocket onto with 3D printing technology.

The best way I see is to model the transducer in CAD and 3D print a plug. The dimensions have been taken off Airmar published data which isn't quite complete but after harvesting the drawings off the web, I checked the scale for distortion and the image appears to be exactly to scale. With this I used software I have to scale and measure the missing data. I don't have CAD skills but a friend and fellow FW member does and also has a 3D printer so we now have a virtual 3D model.

I've also emailed Airmar to see if I can get more exact measurements. They have published a radius of 59mm and a width of 117mm which doesn't add up but when measured from scale I get 118mm which works. It could just be the yanks rounding when converting to metric. I have used 118mm which is bigger anyway so it will give an extra 0.5mm clearance if anything. I'd like to get the pocket made in advance so it's ready and the transducer and pocket can be installed into the hull as soon as it gets here but it's a small gamble working off published data rather than measuring the unit in hand.... I'll make a decision whether to print off this data when/if I hear back from Airmar.

Scale drawing check

Virtual model

Have upgraded to a Furuno 588 with P66 transducer so selling the DS600X with 500watt transducer for $350 ono. This unit has been on our 595 Trailblazer and has served us well but the "boss" gave the green light so "never let a chance go by". Photo taken in simulator mode as it's removed from the boat

Anybody got any tips for dragonfly pro sounder on tweaking settings ?

M265 in-hull tranny, Ill be going through hull soon if anyone is keen to purchasing it off of me.

Hi looking for advice

Got myself a Dragonfly 7 pro , looking at gps and chart its all a bunch of red crosses with no id names or numbers is they're any way to get them to show up.

got a couple

Hi all,
chasing some opinions.
I have an eS 98 coupled with a CPT100 transducer, was thrown in as a package when I purchased my boat(670c BarCrusher)
Having had it for a while now I would like to venture out and fish in deeper water ~3-500m.

From what I understand the CPT100 is 600w and good to roughly 250-280m.
Have had a bit of a look on line and like the sound of the CP 370 sonar module with a TM 258 1kw transducer.

As when it comes to all this stuff I am not to tech savvy all comments and opinions would be much appreciated.
I have posed the question to a couple of places and thus far no reply from either.

Cheers
Craig

 Hi Guys 

I'm  after a navionics CF Flash  for a raymarine c80 if anyone has one for sale?

cheers