im chasing some specs on the penguin striker.

Im looking at buying one and am aware that its going to be overwidth on a trailer but im just wondering by how much.

All details on the striker would be greatly appreciated.

Hi All,

Im brand new to boating and got my skippers ticket last month. Eager to get going, but cash is a bit tight, so rather than being sensible and waiting till I could afford something solid, I jumped in and bought an old little 14.5 foot half-cab, with a 40Hp Mercury 2T as my first boat.

I got it very cheap, and put new plugs & filter on it. Was then running well & went for my first run up the swan yesterday, strange experience, a bit scary and 100's of big sailing yachts everywhere ! Left at 1.30pm, back at 7.30, from Leuwin to Ascot & back, so on the water a good while.

Anyway, we had some engine issues, reluctant to start, after a while often couldnt get full power or on the plane and used way to much fuel. Today it wouldn't start,and the plugs were fouled. I figured the carbs needed tuning, so ill get that done by a mechanic. been quoted $150 to remove clean & retune per carb, two carbs, so $300 all in, or someone else quoted $500 for full service including tuning carbs.

We had other issues I was wrongly putting down to the engine. But today I was working on the boat & noticed a splashing noise. I tipped the front up using the jockey wheel to full height and water was flooding out of one of the bung holes for about 20+ minutes, we would have taken on a lot of water.

The hull had been repaired previously, but I couldn't find any water on the hull itself

So, my question is, how do I find out where the leak is coming from.

Also, I have a bilge pump, but the bilge was fine, and only had a couple of litres of water. The water was inbetween the hulls(if that makes sense).

I believe I could sell her for the same price as I bought her, even being honest about the issues, as she ticks all the boxes, but if these are simple fixes, I would much rather fix her up & get boating !

But I dont want to pay a mechanic get the engine going great, and then find out the hull isnt worth fixing.

Sorry for the waffle ! Any advice very welcome !!

 Hi

I'm looking at getting an electric cray pot hauler with a preference for the crane arm mounted type. I have found 2 types that i like,

NJ Craypots & Accesories

Stress Free Pot Hauler

  Does anyone have any knowledge/experience/recommendations on Pot Hauler types.

The hauler will be used on a 6.7 metre Custom ali walkaround, it's a very stable boat at sea.  Any helpful advice welcome.

Thanks Mahi Mahi

Hi All,

Apologies for the size of the post. Would be stoked with some advice if any one has any ideas. Start 5 weeks leave tomorrow and I'm demoralised, down coin and struggling to get my boat in the water. 

Jan last year I snapped a spring on the trailer so took it in to a guy in Rockingham got all new 4t springs, hubs, brakes and bearings and was down 3g, it looked like there was still a clog in the brake lines so spent another 1 on lines and replaced acuator (elec over hydraulic) with second hand one by a Mandurah trailer joint. Used it for probably 20 on road hrs then mid cray season while washing it down saw steam from the front right.

Called local mechanic he replaced all bearings as they had been washed out for just shy of a g, not sure why they been washed out, drove down the ramp twice from then and they kept getting hot. To compound stuff then did a fuel pump on the outboard so had to take it up towards Freo. Stopped to check the hubs halfway to Freo and could smell the front right as soon as I opened the car door, called mechanic and he came out front right was super hot but looked ok but rear right was washed out so repacked the rear right and loosened both right ones off. Drove to the boat yard and they were fairly hot. 

Got fuel pump replaced and boat dealer had a look at trailer for me, spaced the washers on the brakes but said apart from that all good. Went and picked the boat up, stopped after 10 mins to check and all four were hot, front right worst and basically could touch and count to one but then had to pull hand away. Got home all four were hot but now front right and rear left would sizzle with a flick of water. 

So now four people have looked at it said all good, I've run it without the brakes dialled up , in a controlled enviro ( front right, back left can't touch hot and other two can hold to count of one), and still having the same dramas. Lost all confidence in the trailer and it's hurt the wallet bad and now can't even get my stress reliever in the water. She never had these issues prior to the work so not sure what's going on.

Last thing I want to do is hurt some one because the trailer fails, if anyone knows how to get it Sussed, more than happy to throw you a carton or come for a fish. Would appreciate any ideas.

Ben

Guys I have a 2003 southwind sf500 with a Yamaha 115 salt water series 2 stroke outboard with only 100 hours on it. My current motor is immaculate as you would expect with the low hours. The 2 stroke noise and fumes don't bother me but it does bother my wife for when we go to rotto and also a couple of regular deckies seem to fall victim to the smell and I wouldn't mind improving the fuel economy as the Yamaha is a fuel pig.

So I am thinking about repowering the boat with a 100/115/130hp 4 stroke and I am chasing thoughts on this, a new motor all fitted would probably cost close to the boats value however I don't plan on selling the boat so it would still be a long term investment.

1- would you even bother repowering considering the low hours on the 2 stroke I already have?

2- which brand 4 stroke outboard would you go with?

3- I believe most of the top brands are much of a muchness (Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda etc)

4- are the new model mercury outboards worth looking at as I know older mercurys had a bad rep.

5- who would you recommend to get the best deal?

6- what price can I expect to pay?

I don't want to do the leg work and getting quotes via email and online is proving hard work. Hoping someone else has recently been through the process. 

Cheers.

 Hey all,

 I have been thinking about getting a new boat, upgrading to something a little bigger. I currently have a 4.85m cuddy and have owned a 4m dinghy before, I'm thinking maybe a plate aliminium cuddy but secondhand ones don't come along all that often in the price range and size. I have seen alot of runabout style boats and also cats the questions I wanted to ask are;

Alot of the runabouts are a little older and don't seem to have an openable window/hatch in the windscreen to access the anchor (see picture), how do people with these boats go anchoring on a choppy day with a bit of swell?

The other question is about cats, I have seen what seems like some really good buys but they don't get snapped up like regular boats. What are the pro's and con's of these type of hulls? What are the service and running costs like considering most have two engines? 

Hi All

Just purchased a 2004 570 Quntrex Freedom sport on a dual axle galvanised trailer.  Got it weighed at the Balcatta recycling centre and its 1500kg.  I predicteded it should be under 1400kg (my towing limit).  I knew my car would struggle to tow at its limit for distances and for that reason had planned to eventually upgrade but I at least wanted to be within tow limit so I was all good from an insurance point of view and I could upgrade in my own time.  This is all a bit academic now as it only means I'll probably upgrade sooner rather than later but still puzzled where all the extra weight is coming from.  I had two methods for predicting the weight, listed below with assumptions.  Appreciate any comments where I may have gone wrong.

Method 1:

I had a 2001 560 Freedom sport on a single axle galv trailer weighed 1220kg (I didn't buy this boat)

Dunbier list the difference  between a single and double axle trailer that are both 5.7 m as 60kg. (the weight of another axle assembly).

I'd expect a small difference in boat weight (560 vs 570) and motor (100hp vs 130hp - both 4 strokes)

Fuel Qty was similiar between both boats when weighed and both had similiar gear (basics - anchor, bimimi, radios)

So I figured my 570 on a dual axle would be the 560 on a single + 100kg.  ie 1320 kg.

Method 2:

My trailer tare weight is 400kg (from the trailer plate)

Quintrex list 620kg as the "boat only" mass of the latest 570 Cruiseabout (I'm assuming similiar weight to my 2004 570 FS, I'm also assuming that "boat only" would include basic/standard equipment - seats, radio, etc)

Quintrex list 240kg for motor weight. (and Honda website lists my motor at 230kg, but I'll go with the higher)

I've probably got 20kg of fuel onboard and I've got no gear other than basic/standard equipment.  I've also got single battery.

So total of 1280kg.

At 1500kg (from the Balcatta recycling centre weigh bridge), method 1 is 180kg out and method 2 is 220 kg out.  Can anyone offer their thought on where this weight is?  Is Quintrex being cheeky with their boat weights?  Did the guy at the trailer place stamp the TARE after a few beers on a friday arvo, did I go to a dodgy weigh bridge, is there 200lt of sea water floating around under the floor boards?  All of the above??!!

Ironically I'm still 300kg under my Gross Comb Mass, so if I could magically transfer 100kg to the back of the car I'd be 100% legit if I ever had to make an insurance claim and they starting getting picky.  Also, as another side note, my hitch load is 75kg - within my limits without needing a distribution hitch.  Its at the bottom end of the 5-10% hitch load range I've heard of but the car handles nicely at all speeds.

Appreciate anyone taking a genuine interest in offering some explanation.  Thanks in advance for staying on topic, please dont bother to reply if you simply want to point out my shortcomings in assuming 1400kg would be enough or that I should have weighed it before buying.

Regards

Mondy

 Hi all

Just got myself a 26ft seaswirl striper from the states with a 2008 250cc evinrude on the back.

took it for a spin everything works great except the prop cavitates when turning and in sloppy seas.

it has a 14.8x17 3 blade alloy prop. 

What should i put on it? A four Blade stainless?

cheers

Hi All, just bought a tidy Fraser Formula 6M and the decals had been removed by the previous owner as he was going to replace them but hadn't gotten around to it. Does anyone know of where I could get a full set, or even have some pictures I could use to get some made?
Cheers

Hello All....

I am wondering if anyone can shed any light on the make-model - or manufacturer of the 4.8m Plate Ali.
I'm guessing it may be a home made job. DIY package perhaps ?

Any thoughts welcome.
Cheers!

Need help with E Tec I Command guages

particularly the NMEA 2000 set up as fuel guage sensor not working  

Happy to pay for time for the right person that knows this stuff inside out

Thanks 

 gents need some help, after 12 months taking up driveway space decided it was time to take the boat our (plus currently being out of work I have some spare time).  Anyway battery dead, no biggie buy a new one happy days nope.  Fuel line all dry and primer bulb stiff as, no biggie buy a new one,  happy days, nope.

She fires runs then stops, reprime and start it.  Runs the fuel dry and stops.   Now I'm out of ideas, is there anyone here who can it fix it for me?  Johnson 70hp VRO.

I'm in Belmont

Cheers

Dave

Im pretty sure my gearbox shit itself today and as I have no mechanical knowledge whatsoever, I'm hoping someone a bit more mechanically inclined might be able to help me out with what the problem may be. All I can come up with is it's rooted.

Gearbox has been clicking for a while when engaging drive but today it went full retard -grinding hard and wouldn't engage until almost full throttle. Thought I would be able to see the day out but after a few more times of stop starting and struggling to engage drive, I started to smell burning oil so packed up shop and came home. Side note: doesn't grind while engaging reverse.

Im hoping someone might be able to tell me by the above if I require a full gearbox rebuild or if it seems as though it may just be bearings or gears. Any help appreciated. 

 Hi guys,

Before I get some fibreglass work done on my newly purchashed, second hand boat - I need to do something with the trailer. It's unregistered but doesn't seem to be in too bad condition. 

Has anyone had a boat trailer refurbished professionally ? Is this even a thing ?

I'm in no way skilled enough to do this sort of thing myself. 

I'm tossing up wether to refurbish the current trailer and get it registered, or bite the bullet and pay ~$4k for a new trailer. I feel the boat was great buy at $9k but if I add another $4k on top of that then it might be over capitalising.

One thing I know is that I want a good, reliable trailer that I am confident in taking up north. Maybe that answers my own question...

Cheers!

If you are that lucky and lived on the canals what is the opinion about choices to protect the boat.
Leaving it in to soak, then antifoul
Boat lifter
Drive on floating "bricks" - Float bricks
Net pontoon - the motions of the boat in the net rubs off growth?? Sea Pen
Old man is thinking about this so doing a little homework for him.
Like my privacy a little to much for this, plus $$$$ to move there a BIG issue, but still might store my boat there for ease off use.
cheers from anyone that can help.

 Hi

new to the site, just purchased my first cuddy cabin. It's a freedom escape 1750. 

I have a lowrance HDS 12, I think gen 1. This has a fuel sensor attached which is my only form of fuel reading. I would like to install a normal fuel gauge for peace of mind. The fuel consumption feature on this is really great.

how hard are fuel gauges to install and what's the best type?

thanks guys

Hi guys
looking at doing a bit of maintenance/freshen up on an engine I have bought - its a mercruiser 260 (5.7 carby) and starts and runs fine - the marinised externals all look a bit tired so I am looking to replace
*Manifolds and risers
*raw water pump impellor
*circulating pump
*thermostat

I am looking at non genuine parts mainly and my first look at prices between AUS and US indicate they are wildly different - most of the US priced stuff I have seen is on EBAY however and the shipping is huge (like 700 for manifolds and risers and 800 for shipping!)
Has anyone bought ex US with reasonable shipping? - cheaper shipping is likely to equate to slower shipping but I don't care so much about how long it takes

cheers

 Hi guys.

Anyone know roughly how much it'll cost to increase transom height?   My boat currently takes 20" outboards but most late model 140hp-175hp are 25" legs.   There's a notch in the middle of the boat where the outboard is mounted, which is about 150mm lower than the rest of the transom.  So, I don't need to increase the whole transom, just the notch.  The dimensions of the notch/gap (whatever is called) is 740mm wide and 150mm high

Is it DIY-able?

 Also, peoples thoughts on using jack plates?  The Americans seem to love it..

 Hey all

Im revamping a 4.3 kingsray just need some advice on the side supports.

My plan is to remove both front bench seat and fit a false floor with 2 pedestal seats at the front.

I have access to ally and welders and all that but just need some ideas on the best way to support the sides with gussets etc.

Thanks =)

Does anybody have an idea on the weight?, 5.8m, former sterndrive, now removed. It is of the heavier fiberglass variety, 1986 I believe.

 Hi guys.

Putting in twin fuel tanks and wondering what's the best way to plumb them?  I was thinking of plumbing the tanks into a 4 way valve (1, 2, both, off) and from there, into the fuel filter/water seperator.  Another thing is, my fuel filter has twin in and out. Can I plumb directly from the tanks into the filter, and not worry about the 4 way valve, and have individual shut off valves for each fuel line/tank?

Ideally I would like the motor to pull fuel from both tanks at the same time to keep fuel levels even.

Suggestions?  

Ranmarrrrrr, where are you?? Haha

Thanks!

 Looking to fo the plugs on my 60hp 4 stroke  yammy soon.

Is there a special thin walled tool available to remove them.?

If there is were is the best place to buy or order one from?

As from memory a standard vehicle sparkplug socket doesnt work due to the walls being to thick to get in there. (Was the case on my old 50hp anyway)

Thanks in advance

Good Morning all,

I have had an issue with a perished seal on the top of my fuel tank and the resultant leaked juice has lifted and rotted the cork decking on the step at the bow. Bit of a mess now...

Can anyone recommend anybody to make the repairs? I would prefer the cork decking be replaced on the whole step, plus a new face board and wide stair nosing for protection, shaped around the faring and pot winch.

There is also a patch on the starboard side where the fuel was snaking away and again lifted the cork decking that would need fixing.

Any and all suggestions very greatly appreciated! :)

Cheers,
Tim

Hi Guys

So I have noticed that when my boat is on the battery charger I am getting a tingle on my forearm if I brush any bare ali whilst standing outside the boat on the ground with bare feet.

When on the charger my isolator is switched to off and my nuetral connection is as it always is, being an ali boat the motor is earthed to the hull through its mounts (although all other nuetrals are run to a negative bus or to the neg on the battery.

Doing a google search this appears to happen quite often and some are blaming chargers that are only double insulated with no earth prong (which mine is).

Just wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue and what they did (if anything) to remedy it?

Steve

 Hi guys,

I have just purchased an older fibreglass boat (swiftcraft sea hawk). I have a few minor jobs that I am planning to get a fibreglasser conduct.

It has been suggested that I get the fibreglasser to drill core holes around the floor and inject foam into the bilge area to provide positive bouancy, better ride etc. From my searching I can only assume it would be a closed cell foam but I will need to confirm if this can be injected and if this is what is actually used...

Either way I have been told that it is not worth doing/worth the money as the swiftcraft are solidly built and the foam will only end up absorbing water, get heavy and promote rotting of the stringers etc.

But from what I read - if it is closed cell foam - then it won't absorb any water.

Can anyone who has had this same job done provide some feedback on it ? Is it worth doing to ensure safety and improve the ride or is there really not much point ?

Thanks !

Looking for recommendations for outboard servicing (Mercury) in Mandurah area.

Mobile would be good. Prefer to watch and learn if possible rather than drop into a shop.

Any recommendations? (or stay clear of?)

Cheers Rod

 Hey guys, I've been servicing my 225 4stroke outboard for a fair while now doing all the normal things,  just wondering if any of you blokes with an idea can tell me how often should I get the extras like tappet clearances adjusted and idle speed checked, any other things that I might want to get a pro to look at?

Thanks,

Matt

 What grease  are people using in there  pivots etc on thier outboards.?

Hey guys,

I was just wondering what the main differences were between the two?

cheers

 Im looking for a copy of the old logo for a Penguin Ultimate. Just wondering if anyone has one or a photo of one I could get made up by a signage person. Not sure if it's the same as on the Penguin Huntress or not. Can't seem to find anything around the country with the ultimate logo on it. I know these boats are getting old now so just trying to keep it original to a certain degree. Any help would be greatly appreciated.