After prevaricating for quite some time, I finally went ahead and bit the bullet with the purchase of an anchor winch. I fish by myself a fair bit, anchoring up in fresh easterlies, and this has to be the way to go. Looked at all the options, and eventually decided on a horizontal windlass type. Bought a Maxwell HRC6 FF, after veering towards the South Pacific 710 or 810 for a while. Was eventually swayed by someone who started with the SP 710, was ok, but eventually had issues, and replaced it with the Maxwell. Reckons it is an absolute brute, and once he starting using the correct 8-strand plait rope, absolutely trouble free.

I don't want to get into the drum vs windlass debate--as I have stated before, I have a couple of reasons why the drum doesn't suit either me or my boat. It would either have to mean mounting it externally, ugly and constantly weather exposed, or internal bulkhead mods to fit it inside the big rope locker. Plus, you have to have it tied to the drum at all times, which means you can't drop it in a hurry if you need to chase a fish. Note to self--be careful about dropping 8-strand plait from the windlass winch, IT DOESN'T FLOAT. I have plenty of drop under the winch, so should have no trouble getting 100 metres of 12mm in, probably 150.

Holes were all drilled to template, done slightly oversize, then the exposed timber core had expoxy worked well in and left to cure before the gear was fitted up with sealant. A chain stopper was added, plus a horn cleat for taking the shock load off the winch when anchored in rough conditions. And a fairlead each side for directing handling or mooring ropes away from the bowsprit.

The Swiftcraft had a relatively short foredeck, but at least it is flat. It was a juggling act to get the rear stud holes in the right place as there is rib and structure under there, and bring it forward to clear them cramps the whole thing too much. The chain stopper is as far forward as it can be and still work with a Sarca #2 and swivel.

 Hi, I have just purchased a Bonito 20 with a 1.6l omc seadrive, The motor is shot but the seadrive bracket works fine. Does anyone have any experience with changing out the motor for a bigger one using the existing bracket ( the 1.6l is only rated around 110hp). There is a bit of info on the net but would prefer personal experience. This is the cheapest option. The alternative is to remove the bracket and put on a pod. I can get one built out of ali for $2500- $3000 but would prefer a fibreglass one glassed onto the hull so it doesnt look like a bolt on. I was thinking something like this one following the hull shape but only half width, again any personal experience would be appreciated as there is lots of conflicting info on the web.. Also do you know of anyone who could built it for around the same price as an ali one or do they cost heaps more. Pm me if you prefer to answer that way. Cheers

 So just had the 150 serviced cost including new water pump and a couple of other bits was $750 I am cool with that the water pump $200 and 300 labour. What i couldn't get my head around was that it has to go back in for a spark plug lead costing another 112 bucks more than likely plus labour and a wait of up to 3 weeks. I aren't sure but does this sound excessive seems a lot for a lead.

 I decided to sell my Sea Fox 216 Dual Console in favour of a more fishing oriented rig with better use of the deck space. I didn't have a big budget so I decided a project boat was the way to go. Having had a long running hankering to have a 25 Bertram sedan on a trailer I went and looked at all the ones that were available at the time and came to the conclusion that a 3m wide boat on a trailer was going to be a pain in the neck with towing restrictions at night etc.

So I then looked at what else I might like and decided on a 23ft Caribbean Crusder 235. It was looking a bit sad and had some issues with soft floor, soft foredeck and the seller couldn't get the engine started, however he implied it did run so home it came.

I got it home, added a fresh battery, pumped the gas a couple of times and it fired right up. After that it started on the key turn every. I thought maybe I could run it the way it was for a while and see how my project would pan out but the reverse gear couldn't be selected so that put an end to that.

On with dismantling.....

Out came the engine and drive and fuel tank (sold the engine and drive to another crusader owner for parts)

 Structure was looking a but wrong

 So out came all the deck and supporting structure

New Stringers and floors went in, I was lucky the transom was still rock solid. I had the stringers and engine beds replaced by professionals and I then replaced the floors to save some cash.

I glassed up all the holes in the helm and had that resprayed, refurbished the steering boss to remove the corrosion. The entire boat has had all new wiring and hoses as well.

So then it was a case of what to do for a powerplant? I could have gone with the usual things of using a petrol stern drive or an outboard on a pod. I stuck with the sterndrive as that was the way the boat was designed but I managed to find a used Volvo Penta D3 160 5 cylinder diesel with a duo prop drive for sale. It was from a dealer and comes with warranty so I decided it was for me. The only concern I had was that the 160hp wouldn't be enough. It is however 150kg lighter than the v8 that came out and according to the Volvo web site for the weight of the boat and this power setup I would still get over 30 knots at WOT. I was skeptical but would have been happy with mid to high 20 knot performance given the economy.

I also had a new tank built after the old one showed a leak when the boat went to have the engine fitted. I couldn't find the leak but the diesel in the bilge was a bit of a giveaway. While waiting for the tank to be built I investigated the front deck and decided the only way to know everything, was to cut the fibreglass off the top and see what was underneath. As you can imagine I was faily surprised to see the plywood was all completely rotten wherever previous owners had cut holes in the deck for fittings. I even ended up cutting out where the anchor roller was as it was rotten underneath as well.

Edit: added pic of repaired foredeck

I've also fitted new pedestal seats and put the old carpet down for now until I decide on a floor covering.

Edit: added pic of interior

Sea trial day was last week and while the weather wasn't spectacular we did manage to get out and run her up to temp and make sure all was well. The engine has great diagnostics that can be shown on the tacho screen. In the sloppy conditions we saw a top speed of 31 knots and at 23 knots she was using 16.2 litres per hour which is fantastic for me. That would give me a range of over 200nm from the new 180l tank. I couldn't get over the mid range punch from the engine and drive and it planed at about 12 knots so I was really happy.

So even though it's not finished, I can now at least take her out and fish it and do some of the other bits and pieces as required/desired/affordable. It might not look fancy on the outside but at least now I know it is safe and reliable on the inside where it counts.

Thanks for reading, I'll post more pics as she comes along.

Edit: Added pic of exterior current state

 Hi,

This isn't boating related, but I thought I'd use the collective brains of the FW members for advice.

I have bought my dad's old van off him and can't reverse it as the electric brakes lock on. He has never had dramas with the brakes and I am assuming it has something to do with my vehicle. I have an electric brake controller fitted.

Thanks in advance.

Stu

Took my 2 year old Mackay trailer over a rego workshop today - they failed it because the outer clear plastic coating on the brake lines is cracked....
under the clear plastic coating is stainless braid, under the braid is the copper brake line. Does anyone one here replace their brake lines every 12 months - because that's about how long the plastic coating takes to crack?

Hi Guys

Could someone recommend a stainless steel fabricator, I'm in need of a BBQ stand preferably south of the river. 

 Hi fisherman,  

Could someone tell me what the color paint code for a 2009 Yamaha F150.

If you have sikkens paint color code, it will be perfect.

Thank you

 Hello finding it hard to find a boat like mine. it use to be a inboard 

G'Day All!,

I'm hoping for some advice on installing a second sounder on my boat. Long story short, I have a Dragonfly 7 as main unit at present mounted right side, and on the left of the dash, an old Navman Tracker, which has popped it's clogs.

I fell for the 20% discount trap at BCF on the weekend and grabbed a Lowrance Elite 7 TI, with the Totalscan Transducer, which I would like to mount in place of the Navman.

I have searched old threads here and elsewhere on issues with mounting 2 transducers on a transom, and it seems it can be done, but a bit tricky, with high risk of interference. Attached is a photo of the setup as it is now, obviously the boarding ladder will be problematic, but what are people's thoughts of mounting the Totalscan Transducer immediately to the right of it? I would then send the wiring up the left side of the boat and up into the console.

Is this going to work, or should I forget about using the Lowrance as a sounder and have it as a dedicated chart unit?

Any and all advice very much appreciated!

Hey Guys,

Boat is a 1983 Guardian 24 ft cabin cruiser conerted to outboard pod and half the cabin cut off.

I have recently got myself into a bit of a mess.
While checking out my boat in preparation for the new trailer, I notice a squishy spot on the floor. My heart sank and I bit the bullet and decided to look closely to see what was going on.

Unnoticed during purchase, and all through last season boating and fishing, the floor was just some wood thrown over the original rotted floor and screwed down onto it. Carpet over the top and no one even noticed.

Up came the fake floor, big holes and splits in the original floor underneath.
Through one of the holes in the floor I can see water trapped between bulkheads with no way out and the bulkheads feed spongy too.

Original floor mostly out I removed a bulkhead and yes they all need replacing.

One strange thing I found was that the main stringer down the middle of the boat is hollow. I find it hard to believe that the wood could completely dissolve and noticed a small hole between each bulkhead. Passage for water to move to drainage point?
Wondering if anyone has ever seen anything like this before?

Photos of progress so far and plans ahead are to add storage and better drainage.

Also likely ill be looking at a new transom when I get that far..

I will keep updating this thread with images and progress as I make it but looking like its not going to be much of a season for me...

 Wondering if anyone has experience with the build of Southwind SF655 (2002 model) Recently bought one that has soft spot in floor port side about metre from the stern. Part of the floor seems to have a bubble that is solid underneath when pushed but just behind that and along port side edge theres a spot feeling really soft about 300mm long. Not sure what's under the floors in those boats. Didnt pick it up when looking at it to purchase :-(  and now would like to fix.

If people are thinking about installing cray winches, specifically anchormax capstan winch, here is a response i got from the distributor about the best lead angle for the rope, and wiring / rotation direction of the winch.

My issue is the roller of the tipper will be above the level of tbe winch so i have to lower the angle prior to the winch.

Subject: RE: Lead in angle to an anchormax capstan

Hi

If the windlass is mounted vertically then Ideally having the rope coming onto the drum horizontally  is the best option as this gives you the best wrap on the drum and stops the rope from trying to walk off the drum

If it is mounted horizontally then having the rope feed onto the drum straight is the best

From what they have described maybe option 2 with an idler to feed the rope straight onto the drum would be best 

As for the direction , The new Anchormax can be wired to run in either direction depending on the installation

Usually clockwise is the normal direction 

Kind Regards

Troy

I'm looking for a windscreen for my old derben fibreglass runabout. Also in need of a canopy or bimini. Want something decent but not overly expensive. Recommendations please.

 Chasing a plug to go into the 12v outlet on my outboard for plugging into to charge the battery. As you can see, it's a 2 pin, combination male/female, like a mini Anderson plug. If anyone has one kicking around they don't want or know where I can get one please let us know.

 i have had my boat battery disconnected for 12 months while working on the boat.

Problem i have is i cant recall the proper connection now.

I can hook up to start the motor but none of the accessories work .

Not sure what im missing.

Any boat sparkies on here who could possibly have a look.

Im in forrestfield but can bring it to you

What's the best and safest option for sliding on a rubber fuel hose? Just a bit of saliva or can I give the fitting a lick of Inox or Lanox? It's my fuel fill hose and it is reinforced with metal and is a motherfucker to get off if it gets stuck so I wanna make sure I push it on in one go.

 Hello

Someone sell his trailcraft made in Australia. It is a 570 tournament with center console, 2011 Yamaha 4stroke 150 Hp with 155 hours. It is coming with a trailcraft trailer. There is a bimini too.The boat, trailer and engine look new.

Asking  price is 37500 AUD. 

Is it a good deal ?

About the boat : I would to fish offshore. How the boat is when upwind with 1 and 2 meters swell ? Have it a good hull.

Is it a stable boat if I would like to fish ( jigging, popping ) in moderate sea rough water.

I watched avideo on youtube talking about 5.1 noble boat. Seems to be a trailcraft copyright with a betterave Vee hull ?

Otherwise, someone else is selling his trailcraft 530 profish Side console with a 2006 90 honda 4st with 450 hours in moderate condition at 29000 AUD

Sorry no pictures

Thank you for your help

My Merc 75 cowling decals have peeled off.

anyone know where mercury decals can be sourced for a reasonable price? 

 Not sure if everyone has seen this already but thought it was worth a mention.

www.transport.wa.gov.au/imarine/maintaining-your-boat.asp

Skippers are being urged to take advantage of a new Department of Transport marine safety initiative offering free mechanical checks of vessels, trailers and safety gear to reduce breakdowns the summer boating season.

 Hi All

I'm considering upgrading my 5.8 Preston Cuddy Cab and I'd like peoples opinions on what my boat might sell for if I decided to go ahead.

Hull motor and trailer are all about 15months old. Suzuki 150 still under 5 year warranty with service history, approx 90 hours. Hull has 10 year warranty.

This boat is in show room condition as I'm very particular with my boats. Its always been covered. For those not familiar with the Prestons the build quality is 1st class. They are built in Perth. The overall lenght is 6.2 I think so its a big boat for a 5.8. Preston have a very good reputation in WA.

• Hull was built with upgraded deck and keel sheets
• Anchor winch
• Folding shade
• Fresh water tank with pump
• Under floor kill tank
• Removable piping floor mat. Makes it easy to clean
• 200l fuel
• Hydraulic steering
• Simrad GO7
• Dual batteries
• Finished in Nyalic
• Under floor floatation

The boat is in Dampier but transport south from here is cheap because its easy to get a backload.

 I have a Muir hff600s free fall winch fitteed to the Grady. It is the first one I have used and the previous owner has set it up with 60 mts of chain plus rope. When dropping the anchor the chain peels of at a rate of knots until its all out even if in only 2 mtrs of water. The only way to stop it is to hit the up button while its peeling off which im guessing isnt to good for it. It had a loose connection the other day and wouldnt drop which i fixed but now seems to have an intermittent fault when raising. It seems as if it takes some time to catch up on retrieve after dropping and i have to hit the up button several times to get the anchor to start comming up but once moving retrieves ok.

So should i cut the chain down. Is this normal operation for the retrieve. What and how hard are they to service

Did anyone see that poor bugger at Ocean Reef on Saturday morning who was missing a wheel from his tandem axle trailer?

That poor bugger was me.

Not sure what happened. Got a speed wobble on the freeway at about 95km/hr which is really unusual. Sorted that out and kept on my way to the ramp. Upon turning into the launching bay I notice the rear most wheel really kicked out...much more than normal when you turn. Hopped out to see the outer bearing completely shredded.

Continued to launch the boat and pulled the pots (for zero return).

Came back to shore, retrieved with only 3 wheels and drove very gingerly up the hill and parked the trailer. Off to get a new bearing from the shop and spent the next 45 minutes in the car park fixing up the bloody mess. The bearings were not quite 12months old.

So the lessons learned - dont just keep spare bearings in the boat for long trips.

Folks

would someone recommend a boat mechanic in the fremantle area.

many thanks.

 Hey Guys 

Just Chasing some info on an Aussie Spec Venture Trailer from the USA

Ive had one made over there through the dealer for a Boat i purchased and im trying to fill out the inmport permit document.

The Permit asks for the Lenght the height and the width. But i cant find any info on the net and the stores are closed over there.

Its gonna be on the boat in a week and just got told to get the permit Yesterday.

Any help would be appreciated 

Stolen from Wangara area over the last 2 weeks.  

2.1 meter inflatable, aluminium floor, brand new.

6HP mercury 2 stroke. Have serial number.

Please let me know if you come across anyone trying to offload the above.

UPDATE
have put the car in reverse as westcoast suggested and jumped on the brakes with the unit switched to manual and the unit and brakes work perfect

So is this wired ok or do I need to change it? - if so which pin?

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g'day

Recently bought a boat that came with a nice Mackay trailer, the trailer is only about 3 years old but the rego was out, bought from an auction so no history or previous owner to go back to. My boat is in a stack so have not used it but wanted to get rego
Checking the brakes, the brake-away unit works fine -pull the pin the unit kicks in and the brakes lock on solid.
If I apply the brakes in the car (I have a redarc brake unit in car) the hydra-star does not kick in - nothing.
I have checked the power out of the trailer plug, fine - and the blue wire that runs into the hydrastar has 12volts showing on the multimeter when brakes are applied and 0 when not (to me that would seem ok?)

so I know power is getting to the unit when the brakes are on
I know the unit works because if I pull the b/away pin the brakes lock on
but the ffff brakes wont work off car! :-(
I have fiddled a bit with the wiring, it all looks in good shape and the earth looks fine - anyone got any ideas?

Hydrastar HBA 12- 1200

cheers

Hi FW Crew, just thought I'd put up some pics of my winter project, a new hardtop and rocket launcher for the tinny. Big shout out to my mate Todd who managed to convert my drunken ramblings into nice bits of aluminium and make it all work. Fitted up a new LED light bar, anchor light and some new aerials at home and now waiting for the demersal ban to finish...

Really happy with how it turned out, so much extra room on deck, can fish along the whole side, and managed to re-use the rear section of the canvas as a bonus. The structure is solid as, has heaps of headroom and will protect my lilly white skin from the sun, as well as give the family some shade and something to hang on to.

Before:

Started with the rocket launcher

 

Then added the hardtop frame and bracing







 

All done.

Sent the Cat down to a local dealer for an impellor change. Turned into a Charlie Foxtrot, and the outboard came back with a horrific gearbox noise it never had before. 

After reviewing posts from this site on engine servicing, decided to give a non-dealer a go.

Took the box off and sent it to Cam at Waterline Marine in Wangara. Great service, great work and reasonable pricing.

Highly recommended.

Son and I have purchased a 1998 LEEDER 710 Fliybridge. Looking for some specs if anybody has some in their foot locker particulary interested in boat weight.