Recently I have been feeling a bit of shame as to the state of my upholstery in the boat. It had that brown tinge like I thought it had been badly sun affected and would need to be replaced. The reason I thought it was the sun was because it was worse on the top of the seats and coaming pads.

I got some quotes and just to do have one seat re-upholstered ranged between $250 and $350 and that doesn't include the foam! I had a crack at recovering the worst cushion myself and while it is slightly better than the ripped cushion it replaced, it doesn't look professional. Needless to say it wasn't good enough to warrant doing the rest of the seats myself.

At this point I put it out of my mind as I can't afford to re-upholster all the vinyl in the boat.

Then I happened on a youtube link today that showed some decent looking vinyl getting the detailer treatment and it looked even better. The 'secret' ingredient was high concentrate degreaser. So off I went to supercheap and bought a $12 bottle of degreaser (don't buy the stuff in spray cans), a spray bottle and some microfibre cloths and set to work this afternoon. I diluted the concentrate about 5 to 1 and as soon as you spray it on, scrub it with the little microfibre pad I bought and then wipe it clean, it looks miles better and is now all the same colour. It took about 30 minutes to do the whole boat (remember it is a dual console so has seating and coaming pads in the bow as well).

It isn't the same as re-upholstering the boat but it has removed 90% of my shame! I can't believe the seats were basically just dirty and not sunburnt, well about 10% sunburnt. I can live with that for now.

Hey guys can anyone recommend a good marine mechanic for south perth area? I need a standard issue service on a yamaha 4 stroke. 

The one i've used for a few years seems to have bigger and better things to work on than trailer boats. I've also tried Kane from west coast marine who doesn't seem to answer his calls or return calls.  

The wife has given provisional approval to get a classic older boat which I can tidy up over the winter months.

The current Haines Signature 600 is awesome, but considering I only use it by myself and the family rarely if ever come along I dont really like having too many $$$ tied up with what is essentially a fishing boat. And honestly, I'm not that good a fisherman:)

So, considering they are roughly the same size but have very different hull geometries, which hull would be most suitable for Perth/Jurien when the weather goes to crap and you are trying to get out to pull your cray pots.

These arent my only 2 options, but Im just trying to separate the two.

Forget any mention of motors because I already have that issue sorted.

I had a Swiftcraft Viking many years ago but I cant really remember how well it handled because I never had it out in crappy conditions.

Looking for informed comments. Cheers

So, spoke to the dealer today, to get his point of view.

After a few polite discussions, I asked what he thought of the weight, and how they go usually with trailers etc. I then said how heavy my boat was with half tank of fuel and some fishing gear etc

I then said it would be even heavier with a full tank of fuel, and how do people get these to the ramps legally......

He said, and I quote, "its your choice to fill the tank full of fuel".

WHAT THE .......my choice....who doesn't fill the tank full of fuel.

I just assumed that my boat, 6.2, soft top, would be well under weight, considering they sell 6.7m, hardtop, with the same trailer as mine. (he even said these weight 1870kg unloaded, so as soon as you put fuel in your over the limit!!!)

Rang consumer protection. Can't do anything as I am the second buyer (didn't deal direct with dealer). If I could get the original buyer on board to complain, maybe, but seems like a lot of hassle for potentially no reward.

Anyway, buyer beware of course. Just absolute crap that they can do this.

Anyone have a trailer rated to 2.5t for sale?? Or does anyone have amny recommendations for a trailer.  :)

 Hi guys, I need to stick down the carpet after pulling it up to access the fuel tank. Any tips on what glue to use. Looking for something that will hold it down but will come up easy if I need to access the tank again.

cheers

So took my boat over the weigh bridge the other day, on the way to Jurien.

Coraline, 6.2m walkaround, soft top, half tank of fuel, some fishing gear, ice box with 2 bags ice, safety gear etc

Came in at 2250kg!!! Not happy!

Means I now have to upgarde my trailer or get a new one.

How can boat sellers sells boats like this? Surely this is illegal as they are not fit for purpose.

Any advice...? Anyone want to buy a john papas trailer?

 Hi guys,

Just behind the water intake of my Yamaha 2-stroke is a small hole (dunno how else to describe it).  I noticed today a very minor oil drip running out of that hole.  Theres not a lot of oil at all, but never had any leaks before so it's got me concerned  

Any by ideas what might cause this?

Is it safe to use before I get it fixed next week?

 (Picture obviously not mine, but showing where the oil is leaking)

cheers, Dave

 Heading to abrohlos island late march pending weather. Will be my first time and heading over with two other boats.

So to all you abrohlos gurus what are the boat must haves?

From reading Rob H and Paul G posts it seems tarp for wind block, star picket for a solid beach mooring, plenty of boat shade is a must.

Anything else you can recommened?

Regards Mitch

I've just purchased a new Honda 150 for the Baron project, and looking into batteries.
Only running engine, vhf, stereo, sounder.. and maybe a waeco
Whats everyone running?
Good and bad points?
amp hours?
crank power etc.

-C

Hi Guys, Just looking for some advice on deckwash placement, currently it is in the hatch with the batteries. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas on a better place to put it on a trailcraft.

Cheers

 Hi Guys.

As i was installing a new bait board yesterday i saw this "stuff" sitting in the bottom of my fuel filter. Never seen it before so im a little worried.

Any suggestions on what it could be and how to rectify would be greatly appreciated. Its a bit hard to see but its the thicker stuff sitting at the bottom.

 On my boat that i have just purchased a western craft 525 with a 90 hp 2 stroke outboard there is a tacho on the dash but it doesent work. What should I be looking at as to why it is not working any help will be most grateful cheers thanks

 Has anybody had any experience of these? I only just came across it in an old post here fishwrecked.com/forum/boat-steers-hard-right  , go down a bit and it is mentioned. They are a direct replacement for the normal teleflex cable steering helm.Part no SH 4910P. They run a clutch that holds the steering in whatever position you leave it, you can apparently leave it to run straight , or a slight curve, whatever. If it works as described, it would be bloody useful in getting the lures out, then trolling. You need to break the clutch grip each time you need to move it , apparently, so it is a bit of an effort if you are running a small wheel, no problem with a larger wheel.

Kits are expensive in Australia, CH Smith have them for about $450 with cable ( which I don't need, mine is near new), but I can see one on ebay from the US which will ship for A$165. 

Hi I have a 6.1m quintrex with carpeted floor. I have a noticed my boat is slowly leaking water in (about 2 litres in 6 hours). Pulled off the back inspection cover and bungs etc all look ok but noticed a trickle of water coming from the front to middle area of the boat.

What is the best way to detect exactly where the leak is without ripping up all the floor. Heard of filling the boat with water etc.

Also if I need to get a weld repair any recommendations appreciated.

 I'm struggling with a decision on what is more important on my boat right now - a hard top or an anchor winch?

I bought a hardtop frame and fibreglass top not long ago for a really decent price. The thing is it isn't a bolt on deal so it needs to be modified to fit. My boat currently has a fold down bimini which all works fine but the rear legs obstruct one of the rod holders in the gunnel when it is up. This can probably be fixed with a bit of thought. The hard top would be great as it would be there all the time and not need any faffing around. The rawback is more windage and higher centre of gravity. I wanted the hardtop to fish longer hours with more shade and is a bit bigger than the current bimini but I have found recently that fishing early morning and late afternoon or in the dark is better so the sun protection isn't as crucial. I have a quote for $1200 beans to have the stainless modified to fit.

I am now thinking that spending that money on an anchor winch would also be a nice improvement to my fishing day as I am often solo and it is difficult to get the boat ahead of the anchor when retrieving so it becomes a bit of a struggle for a fat guy like me. I would like a minn kota with the spot lock and all the fruit but that is a bit out of my price range as I would need the model suitable for a 6.4m boat. If I sold the hardtop and put my $1200 toward it I would still be about half way from the installed price of a minn. On the other hand a basic electric winch would be around $1500 installed so is more attainable.

So, if you were in my situation, which way would you go - Hardtop or anchor winch? Particularly interested from people that have added either to their boats and the difference it made.

Thanks for letting me think out loud.

Mike.

I've just pulled up the fuel tank cover to have a look. The fuel lines look good but I think it might be a good idea to replace them anyway. Was wondering is there anywhere I can take it to get fuel hoses replaced, tank drained and cover riveted back on? I don't really have time or the tools to do myself and don't want to stuff it up. 

Hi Guys

My fuel gauge is showing full all the time (yamaha gauges).

Putting a mulit meter on the wires near the gauge, as well as close as possible to the fuel tank, shows a reading of 30 ohms. (google tells me 30 is full, 240 is empty). The tank is half full so I assume is should be reading about 100 ohms.

So it sounds like my fuel sender unit is faulty?

So i need to pull up the floor to replace the sender unit. Is this an easy job? Is it safe? Just worried playing with a fuel tank which is half full!

Advice appreciated. If it ends up in the shop thats probably ok though.

Thanks

Hi All,

I currently have a 4 blade solas prop on a 225 Yamaha four stroke outboard pushing a Haines 685 Patriot, if I was to change this back to a 3 blade what would it do with regards to fuel consumption, top end speed and speed out of the hole.

Cheers

Mark

 Hi guys

Well its time to look at refurbishing my Voyager Fisherman..  The Valma J..  original owner named her after his Mrs. Yeah its brown hull with a cream top... may be call her "Top Deck" after this in reference to the color combo after the job is finished.

Can any of the Bunno members (or anyone else in the know) provide me with contact details for people who do fibreglass work in Bunbury?.  I've been in touch with Todd from Epic Restos in Mandurah and he'll get to look at the boat when I can T up a time to see him. I used to get Kerry Bryant  to do any work but he's now in full retirement.  Thanks in advance for your help and responses.  Happy to travel to a business if not in the greater Bunbury region so please don't discount you're recommendations  just coz of where I'm located.  

 Currently in the market for a new complete kit of Bennett trim tabs. 

Where's the best place to purchase from? 

Looks pretty simple to install only replacing what I already have.

cheers Mitch 

 Hey guys, 

So I have decided to start ticking a few boxes on the project list, Firstly which was a recent box to tick is to get a new fuel tank. Just after the turn of the year I went out towing biscuits for a couple of days. First day went through 40l of fuel. Second say went through 80l doing exactly the same thing and was continually pumping fuel out of the bilge. So I decided it's time to sort out a new fuel tank. This arvo I removed the old 60l plastic tank and found the fitting which is the culprit and re set it into the tank. I do feel as though I could do with another 40l at least, so I am going to look into a custom job. 

Secondly there is the paint. Someone in a great flash of inspiration painted it red, and now, a few years on, it is powdering off, no matter how much I polish it. So the challenge of removing the old paint and replacing it with some nice cool white/blue on the sides is in order 

Then thirdly it will come down to lifting the cab hard top, and strengthening it so that it can easily support the weight of a person, and double as a wakeboard tower for those fun days on the river. 

Any thoughts / recommendations / experiences are much appreciated! 

hi just chasing any experience good or bad with the compressors . engine hrs 470 regularly serviced the dealer has
advised me that they do have problems . I have googled it and can only find older engines

What would the normal operating temp of boat trailer bearing be? Replaced mine the other day, towed the boat to Mandurah and they got to 42 deg, checked them again at home and they were 51 deg, checked with a fluke temp gun.

I ordered a Tomcat 17 from South Africa recently. The boat builder removed the hull from the mould last week and sent the following pics. Boat is due to be completed by end of March and I hope to have it here by May. Somewhat of a mission to jump through import procedures but I am sure it will be worth it in the end.

 Hi Mechanics, I pulled my stator and trigger assembly off my 75hp 1985 Mercury and fitted an after market CDI stator and repaired trigger assembly corroded wires. Now I can not start the motor. I have good spark and compression on all 4 cylinders but just wont fire. I tried to keep everything lined up when I replaced the parts but could I have missed the timing so badly that it wont start? Any suggestions appreciated.

Cheers Coben13

Found a web site that has a lot of manuals that you can view and print . Its an interactive site and is free .Used it a few times now. Point mouse over left hand side to scroll through makes and then use slide bar under book cover to see more manuals . Also place mouse over the picture to see what engine the manual covers. Click on book to open the pdf and use menu's at bottom of screen . Its a lot like using fishwrecked reeltime mag. Here is the link http://boatinfo.no/lib/library.html# Hope it helps someone. Enjoy Paul Edit : its an interactive site that doesn't work on my Iphone , only on computers with a mouse.

you also need adobe flash player version 9 or newer. you can download it from here https://get.adobe.com/flashplayer/

old mate has a Mercruiser 5.7 that sounds an alarm when it is first started at the ramp and then stops once the boat is up and running. It then won't sound for the rest of the day.
It doesn't do it when flushed with freshwater.
He has taken it in for diagnostics twice but they couldn't find any thing wrong. He's now reluctant to hand over any more money for no result.
He's at a loss as what to do next.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

 Whats people opinions on the 2006 sportfish supervee 6.2 centre cab i believe they are the original noble supervee. I am looking at one and just after peoples input on them.

 Hi guys

anyone know how to get a custom coralline made without going though boat city? Can't deal with giving the middle man money for nothing? Any reviews on coralline boats in general or personal experience with coralline boats