Hi Guys, Just looking for some advice on deckwash placement, currently it is in the hatch with the batteries. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas on a better place to put it on a trailcraft.

Cheers

 Hi Guys.

As i was installing a new bait board yesterday i saw this "stuff" sitting in the bottom of my fuel filter. Never seen it before so im a little worried.

Any suggestions on what it could be and how to rectify would be greatly appreciated. Its a bit hard to see but its the thicker stuff sitting at the bottom.

 On my boat that i have just purchased a western craft 525 with a 90 hp 2 stroke outboard there is a tacho on the dash but it doesent work. What should I be looking at as to why it is not working any help will be most grateful cheers thanks

 Has anybody had any experience of these? I only just came across it in an old post here fishwrecked.com/forum/boat-steers-hard-right  , go down a bit and it is mentioned. They are a direct replacement for the normal teleflex cable steering helm.Part no SH 4910P. They run a clutch that holds the steering in whatever position you leave it, you can apparently leave it to run straight , or a slight curve, whatever. If it works as described, it would be bloody useful in getting the lures out, then trolling. You need to break the clutch grip each time you need to move it , apparently, so it is a bit of an effort if you are running a small wheel, no problem with a larger wheel.

Kits are expensive in Australia, CH Smith have them for about $450 with cable ( which I don't need, mine is near new), but I can see one on ebay from the US which will ship for A$165. 

Hi I have a 6.1m quintrex with carpeted floor. I have a noticed my boat is slowly leaking water in (about 2 litres in 6 hours). Pulled off the back inspection cover and bungs etc all look ok but noticed a trickle of water coming from the front to middle area of the boat.

What is the best way to detect exactly where the leak is without ripping up all the floor. Heard of filling the boat with water etc.

Also if I need to get a weld repair any recommendations appreciated.

 I'm struggling with a decision on what is more important on my boat right now - a hard top or an anchor winch?

I bought a hardtop frame and fibreglass top not long ago for a really decent price. The thing is it isn't a bolt on deal so it needs to be modified to fit. My boat currently has a fold down bimini which all works fine but the rear legs obstruct one of the rod holders in the gunnel when it is up. This can probably be fixed with a bit of thought. The hard top would be great as it would be there all the time and not need any faffing around. The rawback is more windage and higher centre of gravity. I wanted the hardtop to fish longer hours with more shade and is a bit bigger than the current bimini but I have found recently that fishing early morning and late afternoon or in the dark is better so the sun protection isn't as crucial. I have a quote for $1200 beans to have the stainless modified to fit.

I am now thinking that spending that money on an anchor winch would also be a nice improvement to my fishing day as I am often solo and it is difficult to get the boat ahead of the anchor when retrieving so it becomes a bit of a struggle for a fat guy like me. I would like a minn kota with the spot lock and all the fruit but that is a bit out of my price range as I would need the model suitable for a 6.4m boat. If I sold the hardtop and put my $1200 toward it I would still be about half way from the installed price of a minn. On the other hand a basic electric winch would be around $1500 installed so is more attainable.

So, if you were in my situation, which way would you go - Hardtop or anchor winch? Particularly interested from people that have added either to their boats and the difference it made.

Thanks for letting me think out loud.

Mike.

I've just pulled up the fuel tank cover to have a look. The fuel lines look good but I think it might be a good idea to replace them anyway. Was wondering is there anywhere I can take it to get fuel hoses replaced, tank drained and cover riveted back on? I don't really have time or the tools to do myself and don't want to stuff it up. 

Hi Guys

My fuel gauge is showing full all the time (yamaha gauges).

Putting a mulit meter on the wires near the gauge, as well as close as possible to the fuel tank, shows a reading of 30 ohms. (google tells me 30 is full, 240 is empty). The tank is half full so I assume is should be reading about 100 ohms.

So it sounds like my fuel sender unit is faulty?

So i need to pull up the floor to replace the sender unit. Is this an easy job? Is it safe? Just worried playing with a fuel tank which is half full!

Advice appreciated. If it ends up in the shop thats probably ok though.

Thanks

Hi All,

I currently have a 4 blade solas prop on a 225 Yamaha four stroke outboard pushing a Haines 685 Patriot, if I was to change this back to a 3 blade what would it do with regards to fuel consumption, top end speed and speed out of the hole.

Cheers

Mark

 Hi guys

Well its time to look at refurbishing my Voyager Fisherman..  The Valma J..  original owner named her after his Mrs. Yeah its brown hull with a cream top... may be call her "Top Deck" after this in reference to the color combo after the job is finished.

Can any of the Bunno members (or anyone else in the know) provide me with contact details for people who do fibreglass work in Bunbury?.  I've been in touch with Todd from Epic Restos in Mandurah and he'll get to look at the boat when I can T up a time to see him. I used to get Kerry Bryant  to do any work but he's now in full retirement.  Thanks in advance for your help and responses.  Happy to travel to a business if not in the greater Bunbury region so please don't discount you're recommendations  just coz of where I'm located.  

 Currently in the market for a new complete kit of Bennett trim tabs. 

Where's the best place to purchase from? 

Looks pretty simple to install only replacing what I already have.

cheers Mitch 

 Hey guys, 

So I have decided to start ticking a few boxes on the project list, Firstly which was a recent box to tick is to get a new fuel tank. Just after the turn of the year I went out towing biscuits for a couple of days. First day went through 40l of fuel. Second say went through 80l doing exactly the same thing and was continually pumping fuel out of the bilge. So I decided it's time to sort out a new fuel tank. This arvo I removed the old 60l plastic tank and found the fitting which is the culprit and re set it into the tank. I do feel as though I could do with another 40l at least, so I am going to look into a custom job. 

Secondly there is the paint. Someone in a great flash of inspiration painted it red, and now, a few years on, it is powdering off, no matter how much I polish it. So the challenge of removing the old paint and replacing it with some nice cool white/blue on the sides is in order 

Then thirdly it will come down to lifting the cab hard top, and strengthening it so that it can easily support the weight of a person, and double as a wakeboard tower for those fun days on the river. 

Any thoughts / recommendations / experiences are much appreciated! 

hi just chasing any experience good or bad with the compressors . engine hrs 470 regularly serviced the dealer has
advised me that they do have problems . I have googled it and can only find older engines

What would the normal operating temp of boat trailer bearing be? Replaced mine the other day, towed the boat to Mandurah and they got to 42 deg, checked them again at home and they were 51 deg, checked with a fluke temp gun.

I ordered a Tomcat 17 from South Africa recently. The boat builder removed the hull from the mould last week and sent the following pics. Boat is due to be completed by end of March and I hope to have it here by May. Somewhat of a mission to jump through import procedures but I am sure it will be worth it in the end.

 Hi Mechanics, I pulled my stator and trigger assembly off my 75hp 1985 Mercury and fitted an after market CDI stator and repaired trigger assembly corroded wires. Now I can not start the motor. I have good spark and compression on all 4 cylinders but just wont fire. I tried to keep everything lined up when I replaced the parts but could I have missed the timing so badly that it wont start? Any suggestions appreciated.

Cheers Coben13

Found a web site that has a lot of manuals that you can view and print . Its an interactive site and is free .Used it a few times now. Point mouse over left hand side to scroll through makes and then use slide bar under book cover to see more manuals . Also place mouse over the picture to see what engine the manual covers. Click on book to open the pdf and use menu's at bottom of screen . Its a lot like using fishwrecked reeltime mag. Here is the link http://boatinfo.no/lib/library.html# Hope it helps someone. Enjoy Paul Edit : its an interactive site that doesn't work on my Iphone , only on computers with a mouse.

you also need adobe flash player version 9 or newer. you can download it from here https://get.adobe.com/flashplayer/

old mate has a Mercruiser 5.7 that sounds an alarm when it is first started at the ramp and then stops once the boat is up and running. It then won't sound for the rest of the day.
It doesn't do it when flushed with freshwater.
He has taken it in for diagnostics twice but they couldn't find any thing wrong. He's now reluctant to hand over any more money for no result.
He's at a loss as what to do next.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

 Whats people opinions on the 2006 sportfish supervee 6.2 centre cab i believe they are the original noble supervee. I am looking at one and just after peoples input on them.

 Hi guys

anyone know how to get a custom coralline made without going though boat city? Can't deal with giving the middle man money for nothing? Any reviews on coralline boats in general or personal experience with coralline boats

Hi everyone,

Just thought I'd ask the question whether anyone has ever had issues with water in their fuel on an ETEC, and what they did to remedy it?

Background: I live in an area where I'm quite happy that I have a dog in my yard when I'm not at home.

My boat lives in my backyard locked behind gates. On Saturday, I hooked up the boat, fueled it up in the afternoon, and parked the ute/boat out the front of my house ready for a 5:00 take off. That night, my sensor light goes off, and I wake up, look outside, but can't see anyone near the boat, so I sort of dismiss it. In the morning, I notice that the fuel cap has been taken off the boat, and I figure someone has siphoned the fuel (its happened with my car before). I grabbed a jerry can, and poured some fuel in, and it was all full. I figured they couldn't get it due to the long fill hose, and awkward angle it would be connected to the tank, making siphoning difficult.

I launched the boat, took off, and maybe 1km from the ramp, still in the greater bunbury harbour area, the iCommand unit starts going off, giving alarms about water in the fuel, and then stalls out. I tried clearing the fuel filter, flushing the line, etc... No joy. I had to get towed back to the ramp buy 4 guys in a little 430 runabout with a 50 hp yamaha  on the back (thanks again, guys, if you're members).

I'm now thinking that maybe whoever might have tried to siphon my fuel got frustrated when the couldn't get the fuel, and then out of spite, poured their drink/pissed in the fuel tank. If that's the case, I'm really dissapointed in humanity as a whole.

I'm going to take it into the the ETEC dealer and see if they can point out some other cause for this alarm that I mightn't have considered. I was just seeing if anyone else had an experience with this/ideas about it.

Thanks, guys.

 All the new boats seem to have the space between the front seat and the bow filled in to make a casting deck.

Whats the ride like, sitting on the front as you have to sit backwards with your legs to the rear and look back or twist around to see forward.

Does it suck after a while?

Can anybody out there tell me about the Markham Profish 622.  Is it a decent boat, how does it ride etc.  I can't find much on it.

 Hi guys, 

           Just chasing some advice fellas. Got a 18"6 baron sportsman that sits on a dual axle trailer.

The problem is where I park it at home I have a very tight S bend to get it into position and no room for the car to perform it so as you can imagine it aint an easy task by hand. 

Do you fellas think if when I park her up I take the front tyres of the dual axle to make her turn easier the trailer should still be right with the weight of the boat?

This will only be a short term option as eventualy with a bit of convincing the wife should allow me to do some gardening to make a straight short through to the boat.

Cheers in advance for your thoughts gents. 

Tights lines.

 Evening folks

Bit of an urgent one tonight.

A few weeks ago while dancing around my c/c seeker boat, I jumped from the front of my boat down to my deck and heard a crack. The floor softened up in that area after which I blamed on the deck of the boat cracking.

Just pulled the carpert up to find the damage which is slightly worse than expected. There's about a 400mm long crack in the floor where I've landed which joins to the side of the hull. I've done the old fist bang on the sides of the boat and apart from the affected area, all is solid.

Trouble is I have a Leeman trip booked in this weekend.....

I've been out since the incident and there hasnt been a change in any of the boat handling but I'd like some more opinions about what damage I've done.

Do you think it'll be ok for the weekend or am I best to get this sorted asap?

Thanks 

Hi guys

Just doing some investigative work. The Pacemaker Charger 560 and the Calais (made in Bunbury I believe) use the same moulds from what I can tell. Can anybody shead any light on any differences between the 2?

For example, was one built heavier or better than the other?

Cheers

Brad

 Hey guys I am almost sold on a boat. Its a chivers thunderbird mkV. The owner has it advertised for 6850, is willing to let her go for 6k.

I know the boat has a great rep so thats all good. Im just wondering if the package is worth 6k or id be paying a little too much. 

It has a pod extension, with a 1986 120hp johnson v4 vro.

Hydraulic steering.

Underfloor fuel tank

Hummingbird gps chartplotter/ fishfinder (798c si)

Canopy, clears, anchor, vests etc...

With the engine being so old it worries me a little.

Hi All,

Im pretty keen to get an electrical motor intstalled (motor guide type to lonk to HDS sounder) to my bow. Anyone in town specialise in this or anyone got any recommendations. I can order the item online and just do the install job if needed.

Anyone been through this or got any recommendations?

Cheers

Barraslayer

 Hi,

Finally got the cash together to purchase an anchor winch for my boat. After a fair bit of searching I settled on getting a Lone Star winch as they came with good reviews and look to be about spot on for value for money (I couldn't justify getting a Stressfree winch for more than twice the price). I purchased the GX3, a roller, a chain guard and one of the wiring looms (thank god). 

The GX3 is the biggest of this range and is pretty heavy. The unit comes with the winch/motor, backing plate, switch panel, actuator, and all required fixings. The wiring loom is based on some typical lengths and I got the 1000L (long) which was more than big enough for my 7.5m boat.

First up was to check if it actually fit in through the top of the anchor well. I had measured it and it was close, but getting it in on a bit of an angle was OK. Once in there was plenty of room. 

I ran all the cable from the battery in the same place as all other electrical stuff. There was a pos and neg cable - the neg went straight to the actuator which is installed in the cabin. The pos went to the switch panel. Things are a bit cluttered in the helm area but I found a good spot just in front of the throttle which I think will work well. It needs a fairly big hole as there is a circuit breaker and some wiring which comes out the back. I measured up and drilled a pilot hole for each corner. I then used a jigsaw for the first time in my life. I am glad the cover plate goes over the top of the job I did, but it looks neat enough now that it is covered up. Only issue I had was the head of one of the screws shearing off, but I can't get it out and it is more than secure. 

I then went back up front and installed the winch itself. This is a nightmare to do by yourself as it is so heavy and it is difficult to position accurately. I ended up measuring up and drilling from the cabin out using the backing plate as a template, putting bolts through each hole pregressively. I eventually man handled the winch and got the bolts lined up and installed but it was a bit of a mission. Everything fit pretty well but there was a bit of tidy up required. As my anchor well is sealed I had to drill a couple of holes in it to get the cables through. I put them up high to try and put them in a dry area. The cables are crimped to the wiring loom and covered in water proof heat shrink. This is literally the most difficult connection of the electrical system - so it is highly recommended. 

The remaining cables join together at the actuator which needs to be positioned vertically in a dry area, so I chucked it in the cabin. I ran the cables to the winch along the storage area which I use to store the lifejackets. 

A few pics of the (nearly) finished product are below. If I had my time again I would use grommets for the penetrations through the ally and I would have done a slightly neater job on the jigsaw, but apart from that I am happy. I also still need to trim back the bolts that are protruding into the cabin and will probably lower the anchor roller to the other setting as it doesn't need to be so high. When I get it on the water I will pull it up under load and see how it lies on the drum. At the moment it is a bit tight and I am expecting to cut some more line off it to make sure it doesn't bind up if it wasn't to spool on perfectly. There is currently 80m of line and 10m of chain, but I can drop both of them down if required.

Well, my carlisle brake controller (HBA-12) has packed it in.

I have been through the manufacturer fault finding which says "the unit needs to be repaired".

I have disconected all the wires to the unit except the 12V supply. The brakes pump is constantly running whenever it has 12V supplied (ie no signal from teh brake controller in the car and Brakeaway unit installed (and I have tested that the switch itself is operating correctly).

Has anyone else experienced this?

Does anyone know the local agent for these units, or someone who services them so i can get it repaired?

Thanks