Hi everyone,

Just thought I'd ask the question whether anyone has ever had issues with water in their fuel on an ETEC, and what they did to remedy it?

Background: I live in an area where I'm quite happy that I have a dog in my yard when I'm not at home.

My boat lives in my backyard locked behind gates. On Saturday, I hooked up the boat, fueled it up in the afternoon, and parked the ute/boat out the front of my house ready for a 5:00 take off. That night, my sensor light goes off, and I wake up, look outside, but can't see anyone near the boat, so I sort of dismiss it. In the morning, I notice that the fuel cap has been taken off the boat, and I figure someone has siphoned the fuel (its happened with my car before). I grabbed a jerry can, and poured some fuel in, and it was all full. I figured they couldn't get it due to the long fill hose, and awkward angle it would be connected to the tank, making siphoning difficult.

I launched the boat, took off, and maybe 1km from the ramp, still in the greater bunbury harbour area, the iCommand unit starts going off, giving alarms about water in the fuel, and then stalls out. I tried clearing the fuel filter, flushing the line, etc... No joy. I had to get towed back to the ramp buy 4 guys in a little 430 runabout with a 50 hp yamaha  on the back (thanks again, guys, if you're members).

I'm now thinking that maybe whoever might have tried to siphon my fuel got frustrated when the couldn't get the fuel, and then out of spite, poured their drink/pissed in the fuel tank. If that's the case, I'm really dissapointed in humanity as a whole.

I'm going to take it into the the ETEC dealer and see if they can point out some other cause for this alarm that I mightn't have considered. I was just seeing if anyone else had an experience with this/ideas about it.

Thanks, guys.

 All the new boats seem to have the space between the front seat and the bow filled in to make a casting deck.

Whats the ride like, sitting on the front as you have to sit backwards with your legs to the rear and look back or twist around to see forward.

Does it suck after a while?

Can anybody out there tell me about the Markham Profish 622.  Is it a decent boat, how does it ride etc.  I can't find much on it.

 Hi guys, 

           Just chasing some advice fellas. Got a 18"6 baron sportsman that sits on a dual axle trailer.

The problem is where I park it at home I have a very tight S bend to get it into position and no room for the car to perform it so as you can imagine it aint an easy task by hand. 

Do you fellas think if when I park her up I take the front tyres of the dual axle to make her turn easier the trailer should still be right with the weight of the boat?

This will only be a short term option as eventualy with a bit of convincing the wife should allow me to do some gardening to make a straight short through to the boat.

Cheers in advance for your thoughts gents. 

Tights lines.

 Evening folks

Bit of an urgent one tonight.

A few weeks ago while dancing around my c/c seeker boat, I jumped from the front of my boat down to my deck and heard a crack. The floor softened up in that area after which I blamed on the deck of the boat cracking.

Just pulled the carpert up to find the damage which is slightly worse than expected. There's about a 400mm long crack in the floor where I've landed which joins to the side of the hull. I've done the old fist bang on the sides of the boat and apart from the affected area, all is solid.

Trouble is I have a Leeman trip booked in this weekend.....

I've been out since the incident and there hasnt been a change in any of the boat handling but I'd like some more opinions about what damage I've done.

Do you think it'll be ok for the weekend or am I best to get this sorted asap?

Thanks 

Hi guys

Just doing some investigative work. The Pacemaker Charger 560 and the Calais (made in Bunbury I believe) use the same moulds from what I can tell. Can anybody shead any light on any differences between the 2?

For example, was one built heavier or better than the other?

Cheers

Brad

 Hey guys I am almost sold on a boat. Its a chivers thunderbird mkV. The owner has it advertised for 6850, is willing to let her go for 6k.

I know the boat has a great rep so thats all good. Im just wondering if the package is worth 6k or id be paying a little too much. 

It has a pod extension, with a 1986 120hp johnson v4 vro.

Hydraulic steering.

Underfloor fuel tank

Hummingbird gps chartplotter/ fishfinder (798c si)

Canopy, clears, anchor, vests etc...

With the engine being so old it worries me a little.

Hi All,

Im pretty keen to get an electrical motor intstalled (motor guide type to lonk to HDS sounder) to my bow. Anyone in town specialise in this or anyone got any recommendations. I can order the item online and just do the install job if needed.

Anyone been through this or got any recommendations?

Cheers

Barraslayer

 Hi,

Finally got the cash together to purchase an anchor winch for my boat. After a fair bit of searching I settled on getting a Lone Star winch as they came with good reviews and look to be about spot on for value for money (I couldn't justify getting a Stressfree winch for more than twice the price). I purchased the GX3, a roller, a chain guard and one of the wiring looms (thank god). 

The GX3 is the biggest of this range and is pretty heavy. The unit comes with the winch/motor, backing plate, switch panel, actuator, and all required fixings. The wiring loom is based on some typical lengths and I got the 1000L (long) which was more than big enough for my 7.5m boat.

First up was to check if it actually fit in through the top of the anchor well. I had measured it and it was close, but getting it in on a bit of an angle was OK. Once in there was plenty of room. 

I ran all the cable from the battery in the same place as all other electrical stuff. There was a pos and neg cable - the neg went straight to the actuator which is installed in the cabin. The pos went to the switch panel. Things are a bit cluttered in the helm area but I found a good spot just in front of the throttle which I think will work well. It needs a fairly big hole as there is a circuit breaker and some wiring which comes out the back. I measured up and drilled a pilot hole for each corner. I then used a jigsaw for the first time in my life. I am glad the cover plate goes over the top of the job I did, but it looks neat enough now that it is covered up. Only issue I had was the head of one of the screws shearing off, but I can't get it out and it is more than secure. 

I then went back up front and installed the winch itself. This is a nightmare to do by yourself as it is so heavy and it is difficult to position accurately. I ended up measuring up and drilling from the cabin out using the backing plate as a template, putting bolts through each hole pregressively. I eventually man handled the winch and got the bolts lined up and installed but it was a bit of a mission. Everything fit pretty well but there was a bit of tidy up required. As my anchor well is sealed I had to drill a couple of holes in it to get the cables through. I put them up high to try and put them in a dry area. The cables are crimped to the wiring loom and covered in water proof heat shrink. This is literally the most difficult connection of the electrical system - so it is highly recommended. 

The remaining cables join together at the actuator which needs to be positioned vertically in a dry area, so I chucked it in the cabin. I ran the cables to the winch along the storage area which I use to store the lifejackets. 

A few pics of the (nearly) finished product are below. If I had my time again I would use grommets for the penetrations through the ally and I would have done a slightly neater job on the jigsaw, but apart from that I am happy. I also still need to trim back the bolts that are protruding into the cabin and will probably lower the anchor roller to the other setting as it doesn't need to be so high. When I get it on the water I will pull it up under load and see how it lies on the drum. At the moment it is a bit tight and I am expecting to cut some more line off it to make sure it doesn't bind up if it wasn't to spool on perfectly. There is currently 80m of line and 10m of chain, but I can drop both of them down if required.

Well, my carlisle brake controller (HBA-12) has packed it in.

I have been through the manufacturer fault finding which says "the unit needs to be repaired".

I have disconected all the wires to the unit except the 12V supply. The brakes pump is constantly running whenever it has 12V supplied (ie no signal from teh brake controller in the car and Brakeaway unit installed (and I have tested that the switch itself is operating correctly).

Has anyone else experienced this?

Does anyone know the local agent for these units, or someone who services them so i can get it repaired?

Thanks

Although my Mercury 150hp 2 stroke EFI runs like a dream, uses little oil and fuel and don't smoke much (for a 2 stroke), there is one niggling issue that I have with it.

After shutting down warm, I always need to push in the neutral button, put in some throttle, before I can restart it.  If I don't do this, it will crank but not fire up.  New spark plugs did not help.

I think I read somewhwhere it has something to do with vapor lock?  Is there anything simple I can fix this?  If not, no big deal as everything else is running smooth.

 Hi guys, 

Over the next year or two id like to have a go at a.project for.the young fella and myself. 

We have a choice 5m ali side console that  covers everything but the big days when theres distance involved and its lumpy .  

Aiming at 21 22 feet , glass, in or outboard.

Old 21 pacemakers are high on the list,  but happy to look at anything.  Will be ripping floors up and going the whole deal. 

1 because i want to know the hull intimately and 2 because im doing this on a budget.

So if anyone knows of any neglected hull under trees or something reasonable sitting in a driveway please let me know.

Cheers Craig 

 Hi All,

Trying to work out if this is the correct prop on this second hand yammy 55BETL/9, &/or what you'd recommend?

Wondering if perhaps the/a previous owner has just thrown whatever on it, seems small, alot of space above it?

No gauges so don't know about rpm's etc, guess ~5k, it's on a 4.5mtr fg runabout, ~700kg

Target for economy is when pulling the young men (kids) on a wakeboard, skies etc (yes 55 is small but does the job for now)

I've checked out a few websites but I don't understand it, aparently the engine was originally sold in 99, but I can't find any for that year, perhaps its a 95 model?

It's 13 spline, approx 260mmm full diameter, 78mm inner hub

Thanks for any help. 

Currently got this Solas

LOTs of space above the prop??

I have a 115 EFI 4 stroke merc wich is the Yamaha power head model. I have had an alarm sound when starting the motor 2 or 3 times the last few trips so its not a consistent issue. The alarm is a series of fast beeps which is different to the overheat alarm which is a constant single sound. Had weed wrapped around the prop recently which triggered the overheat so I'm sure it was a different sound. When I turn the key off and restart it its gone and the motor runs as normal. Has any one had a similar issue or have any ideas ?

 anyone out there know how to swap gps marks from lowrance to garmin?  I've tried a few programs but can't work it out.  A step by step tutorial would be nice :)

I have an Alko Sensa Brake Unit on the trailer, and need to install a new controller on another vehicle.

I would like to go for an inertia style controller, rather than a brake pedal sensor.

Has anyone successfully done the conversion using a Redarc Tow Pro or similar controller?

Can somebody please explain to me how Yamaha can ask $1544.32 for an LP fuel pump to suit an F225 ?

The only explanation to me is "robbery".

I've sourced one in Florida for $US140 (new), so with postage will cost me $A283 delivered to my door from the other side of the world.

I'm all for supporting local, even if it does cost a little more, but the price difference here is unbelievable.

i am wondering if anyone knows someone who can prep and paint boat hulls on the inside and out in Perth and a ruff price estimation on just the outside and a price estimation on the outside and inside?

(5m Stessco with a 70hp Suzuki)

cheers Rob

 Hey guys have a sad exh valve. 

Does anyone one have a set of heads spare for a 95 350 mpi 4350111hu OF598130 or can recommend a reconditioning place. 

Cheers 

dan

hey guys

just wanting some advice on a new plate centre console around the 5.6m long mark. I have been looking at getting one over from Qld, AMM do a  5.2 sea class that overall is 5.6m and looks very strong and grunty also has 20 degree dead rise and comes with a 140 Suzuki, now has anyone heard much about Formosa as they are a bit cheaper but not sure of the quality. I have attached the links of both rigs for you guys to look at. I'm not looking at painting it, I just want it very basic and just an all round work horse

www.formosamarineboats.com.au/models_centre-console-tomahawk.php

australianmastermarine.com.au/our-boats/sea-class/

 Hi there 

anyone know the cheapest way to get a trailer boat from Brisbane to Perth? Got a 5.2 Amm boat I want from over in Brisbane just want to see who's done it before and best way to do it?

 Hey guys,

went out on the weekend and my novice boating mate tilted my outboard into the baitboard and ripped the top of the splash cover which is still in good nic. Does anyone know who repairs these or if they can be repaired? Don't really want to buy another one as they are about $300. Any advice would be great.

Cheers!

After flicking through the search bar countless times and reading all related posts I cant find the information I want.

Currently I have a dual battery set up with the standard 1,2 & both isolator, with a 160W solar panel feed going straight to my 2nd battery through a regulator.

I've just replaced my 250hp 2 stroke with a 300hp 4 stroke and now have room for a third battery, now that the oil tank has been removed.

I would like to add in a third battery for piece of mind and also for extended trips.

Currently running standard accesories sounders,gps,LED lights,12v TV, 40Litre engel etc.

I want to avoid the cranking battery on solar in the event the solar malfunctions for what ever reason and all my battery are connected.

I was thinking of connecting the 2nd and 3rd battery in parrallel and solar to them and keep the 1st battery as cranking/starting.

Is this the best way of doing it, or do you suggest an alternative?

Thanks in advance Mitch

I posted this on another forum. But thought I may as well ask here too. I am looking for a replacement trailer for the right price, but failing have one turn up I am working on the following as an idea.

I think I know the answer to this but thought I would ask the gurus on here if they can see a problem with the plan.

My current boat trailer is rated to 750kg and is un-braked. The springs and axle are due for a change and the whole package weighs in at 960kg. I get so cranky that dealerships let these packages out the door overloaded (Is second hand so no recourse for me unfortunately). The thought of insurance turning me down if something happened is keeping me awake at night as well........

Anyway, The trailer is a John Pappas with a single tow pole from the point where the sides of the trailer meet. It is a 65mm (outside measurements) square tube and I cant get an override coupling to fit. I could cut the whole drawbar off and fit a 75mm one, but I am trying to avoid disturbing the galvanising. So my plan was to cut back the drawbar, fit a 75mm sleeve over the top and bolt it on in two or three spots. Then fit the coupling to this and move forward with fitting brakes to the trailer. Then it will need a RWC etc to be legally able to tow my boat around :)

Can anyone find any flaws in the plan or have another suggestion ?

Looking at what motor to power my Baron project.

I have been given same matching quotes with the Suzi 140 and Honda 135 only difference being the Honda includes stainless prop.

Any opinions or experience?

 Hey guys have a prob with my merc turned over no dramas fri arvo the sat morn launched my boat and all i got was a click from my solenoid and my choke button doesnt work, i have checked earths changed battery put a different solenoid in nothing just clicks, if i connect jumper from battery to stater it works, my only conclusion is its got a bad earth somewhere, please someone point me in the right direction! !!!

gday everyone, I'll try not to make this too boring!

i am in the market for a new boat but I'm having a great deal of trouble deciding what to get! I do most of my fishing in the north west, very minimal southern waters fishing. I'm looking for plate aluminium, around the 5.2 -6m range but I'm unsure whether to get a side console or centre console ? I need it to be family friendly as well, ideally I was thinking a 5.5m centre console with a hard roof & rocket launchers, so I've started looking at the Formosa tomohawk range of boats, has anyone had anything to do with these? Or my next option is to get a boat built in wa so if you have any recommendations that would be great. Any advice on what I should buy & why would be greatly appreciated? My main focus points is large fuel capacity for overnight trips, large storage capacity, hard roof, useable deck space but still a generous console for fitting of instruments. 

 Has anyone owned or had any dealings with these outboards

Im interested to know what the thoughts are 

ThanKs

 Hi All I have recently upgraded my Robalo 235 to a Verado 300. At the momet it has a revolution 4 19p and it is way too much prop. So I guess I am after any input on what prop to run. Does anyone have the same prop in 17p that I can try ? You are more than welcome to come for a ride, or I will leave you my prop and a deposit of your liking up to you. I am a member of CBPC and it will be a fairly short trip just to try it. Also interested in any 14 1/2 Stainles merc prop 17 or 18p

Cheers.

 Good morning I'm a new member name is Laurie im in Queensland but don't hold that against me  I'm in he process of installing a ruff drum anchor winch I know I have to strengthen the well was wondering the best way to go about it  either some sheets of 6mil marine ply or  put some inch thick support strips and glass it in the vertical mount has a lot of thickness just under the wi screen the boat is a 1981 5 Mtrs Yalta half cabin any suggestions is much appreciated  cheers Laurie Lozza