Hi Guys, 

We finally got our boat in the water today for its first propper run (charter called it off due to the conditions, so had the whole day) but it went fairly well, just a few questions about a couple of things,

firstly the depth of our leg on the outboard is set to just above level with the bottom of the boat, as you can see by the arrow in the picture when we are running it seems as though the cav plate is a bit over an inch under water, should we lift it by one hole?

Secondly on the prop that the outboard came with (2004 50 hp Etec) there are these lumps on the body of the prop in front of the blades? Does anybody know what these are for? We are thinking that they are just causing drag. It came off a dual setup if that aids in shedding any light onto the matter.

Cheers guys,

Josh

Hi Guys,

Myself and my dad are looking for a good fibreglass hull for a project. I've read that the Baron Sportsman is a good hull for the deaper sea / rougher waters but i havent found many for sale.

We found a Regent Viscount 19ft also seen them by the name of Regal Rush. Owner thinks it was made in about a 1980. Does anyone know what the hulls are like for strength and handling? It has the chines and looks very simular to the Baron Sportsman.

 Its been out of the water for about 7 years and has a volvo 145a with a 270 stern drive but the engine is buggered which doesnt really matter as we were looking at putting in a different motor and possibly stern drive.

The hull looks to be in good condition, sounds all hard, no cracks or bumps.

What are your thoughts on the hull?

Cheers,

Brendan

Hi all,

Down at All boats this morning, dropping off the Douglass Craft to have the Johnson given the once over and to rectify that misfire at >2500rpm and spoke to Quentin. We were looking over the boat renovations, when he mentioned that the inbuilt fuel tank should have and earth strap from the tank to the deck filler. It makes sense to a certain degree, with the habits of static electricity, but I would have thought with a fibreglass boat, plastic deck filler and reinforced plastic fuel filler hose, that that would not be an issue. What do you others know?

I will let you all know how it went when I pick up the boat as to what the problem with the motor was and how reasonable ABB was.

Hi Guys

 Doing some tidying up on the old girl and am stuck on how to remove the residual adhesive/gum that is left behind after I removed some foam engine insulation that had been fitted inside the engine cowling (non-factory). Tried WD40, eucalyptus oil, thinners but they just leave a tacky surface. Any ideas?

 The second question relates to the coils. I have a dead powerpack and after replacing the trigger coil assy in 2010 thought that for about $400 I can replace both PPs and 6 coils which would pretty much give me a new ignition system and maintain reliability. I cant justify dropping 15-20 K on a new motor and whilst the old 2 stroke is smelly & thirsty it still has good comp and has been very reliable.

 With the coils there is a single post coil and a double post type. Both are listed for 79-84 models and I noticed that I have four of the single and two of the double fitted to my motor... does it make a difference??? Price wise the double post (one post for HT lead and a post for the LT lead as opposed to the LT lead feeding straight into the resin block on the single post) are about $20 and the single post are $35 each.

  Thanks for your help

 Bob

Got a friend that had a little accident over at Rotto on the weekend. Big gouge in the glass.

Anyone got a tip on a good repairer that can match the glass colours well?

I got the cover out for the new DF150 over the weekend and was surprised to see there's no vented section for the air intake.

It's the genuine Suzuki type, light grey colour.

I'd seen them from a distance on other boats before and noticed it was all the same colour etc, but assumed there was a thinner, breathable fabric section over the air intake - but it's all the same stuff, which is quite thick sunbrella fabric.

It's breathable, but still a bit restrictive of flow - so I  can't see how it wouldn't affect performance in the upper revs when the engine needs to suck a lot more air.

It's a bit weird that Suzuki would go to the trouble of designing a gaping big air intake and supply a genuine cover that restricts air flow in some way.

The other type I've seen are the black ones, which have a mesh section over the intake - which would be essential as the black ones don't look like they'd breathe at all.

Anyone noted any issues ?

Dose outboard fuel oil have a use by date ?????? (i have some a few years old)

Looking at getting a new bimini with canvas and clears made for a Fraser 626. Can anyone recommend a shop that does good work??

I have been looking to get a centre console purely for fishing, and would love to get an older "retro" type hull and fit it out with teak decks and covering boards, remove all railings and not vital fittings to get the "clean" look that a lot of earlier American game boats had. I have the teak just need the boat..... this one comes pretty close to ticking all the boxes but my timing is not ideal and its in QLD (prob 6k to get it here at least) thought this was pretty good value anyway

225 4strke Yam, decent looking trailer with a lot of money spent recently on it, 23 ft Huntsman hull -from memory these were a mould that came from International Marine (Bertram 23-25)  -looking at the reverse chine looks  an older model hull (70's) but these were a lot thicker glass layup than  later models  -also means it will be heavier!

22k....... not bad eh!

http://boatpoint.com.au/boats-for-sale/boatdetails.aspx?R=11408367

Well it has been along 5 months we decided to cut the project short by not doing the eskies,wave breaker or water tank that will be next winter.1 year with out having access to a boat is long enough so we figure finish her in time for summer and the attention to detail and extra parts can be done as we go.

Can t remember my last post though final stages have been building a glass fuel tank with vinylester resins and powder bound cloth, side pockets battery trays and the flowcoat and fitout.Will have to do some gelcoat resprays in certain areas at a later stage just for the attention to detail.Well looking forward to some good fishing on the west coast now bring on the spaniards dollies and and a few marlin down this way would not go astray  tight lines guys. 

 Hi Guys and Girl,

Has any one had anything to do the Hysucat foil systems .Saw a Abcat on here with one on.

Can't find much online about them and if the can they fitted to all cats.

Things like cost?

Whats the diff in the handling characteristic to a normal cat?

Do they fit both fibo and ali cats .

Any info would be great.

Cheers

Anyone out there no the recommended outboard hp or maximum transom weight for a 4.9 metre penguin phantom fibreglass boat

There I was, cruising at 28knots then boat started to vibrate, could feel it in the hull.

Stopped for a check, and I could hear knocking, not too bad, in sync with the idling revs.

Killed the engine and restarted, noisy as and rough as a dogs arse, I wont even fire her up as she is too clunky... 

Before I start, any idea's experience, Its  2002 Johnson 2 stroke.... Sad thing is I was putting her up for sale too....due to upgrade...

Aprreciate it 

DB

 Hi guys I just got a new Carribean Reef runner 21ft.

I'm struggling with a new name. Any ideas?

1999 Johnson 130hp ocean pro Fuel Efficiency.

does anyone have any info on the best way to run these motors like how many revs should i be running it to get maximum fuel efficiency.

Cheers.

‎110hrs on the outboard over the last 6 months and it was in Perth for a couple of months so really about 110hrs in 4 months. Based on those numbers I'll need 3 services a year, bugger knows how many hours I will clock up once I get my new gear for chasing billies.
How many hours have you done??

CCC

hopefully i can explain my question well enough someone understands me.

i have a lowrance HDS elite 5 and a navionics chart underlay and i like to have the screen zoomed in on the chart for greater detail.

is there an option where the screen keeps my boat in the middle and the chart moves so i don't have to move the screen with the cursors all the time to see my position?
 

thanks for any help

claymore.

 Hey folks.  More brain picking. 

Just wondering how far out I can safely travel in my tub. 

Its a quicksilver 520 (aka savage Tasman 5.2m) cuddy cab, glass, 90L fuel, with a mercury saltwater 115hp 2 stroke. 

Wondering if I would be able to hit the fads over summer, or if the boats too small, or not enough fuel. 

A few guys from work and I are looking at going and getting our skippers tickets.

We all have different experience levels in regards to boating.

Can anyone suggest a good licenser to contact?

My name is Victoria and in 2011 I swam the Rottnest Channel Swim as the only solo swimmer from SA. This year I am looking to swim again, but this time with 3 other medical students from around Australia in a team of 4. The other three swimmers are all very competent.

We are very excited about doing this - and just yesterday afternoon were accepted in the ballot - now we just need to find a boat. 

Ideally looking for someone with a 7-10m boat, able to hold 6 people+ that is capable of making the trek from Cottesloe Beach to Rotto. However, we don't have access to a boat at the moment - so anything would be a good start!!!

Could you please be in touch if you think you may be able to help in any way - either if you have a boat, or think you know someone who could help. This would be much appreciated. I would be very happy to send some more information about myself if required.

Victoria

M: 0400 7777 14

E:

 Hi Guys,

The time has come to mount my recently purchased 50hp Etec onto the boat, and I was wondering how deep the prop/ leg should be from the bottom of the boat? I know that that it can be too deep, as I found out with the old 35hp when we put that on, it was too deep, and didnt really go properly till we raised the transom up higher, is there some rule to go by?

Cheers guys,

Josh

Blowing a tyre on the 4wd while towing the boat a month or so ago led to a minor accident that could have been alot worse, but still the end result was bad enough to require a rebuild of my boat trailer.

When the tyre blew I was struggling to keep it under control, I ended out veering of the road to the left, over the kerb, and hitting a sign on the side of the road with the right hand wing mirror (close to me) and just graze the back 2cm of the 4wd, and then onto the mud guard of the trailer.  This caused the mud guard to press on and blow the right hand trailer tyre and knocked the trailer out of square by bending the main bar, and just about every bit of steel in the trailer.

So I saved some pennies and while the ban is on, Dad and I are rebuilding the trailer.  Construction is 50x50x5mm SHS.  C Channel was considered, but as it is a only a dinghy trailer for cost we went with shs.  Rollers, spindles, brackets purchased from Martins Trailer parts, or when we couldnt find what we needed, fabricated by myself or taken from the old trailer cleaned up and reused.

Probably 20 hours labour so far between me and dad, we working on it again today and think we will probably get the boat on this afternoon for a final adjustment before stripping everything down, cleaning up all the slag/welds before its off to be hot dipped galv.

Total Cost so far approx $350 steel, $440 in bkts, red poly rollers, spindles, lights etc.

I will reply with the total weight and the cost for hot dipping and a photo when its done.

Bryan

 I'm thinking of pulling out my donk and leg in the new year after Rotto Chrissie break and doing a rebuild.

Does anyone have a good ref on anyone that can do a good rebuild on a big block V8 Mercruiser and Bravo 1 leg ...

and who does not charge an amr & a leg!!!!

looking at rings, bearings, seals, head gasket and valve grind probally. Think pistons and bore still good. Water pump is new.

Leg would be knuckle universal joint and bearings, plus lower leg seals and bearings.

Boat is at Freo Boat Park, so can be on a hard stand to lift out motor?

cheers

Tony

too many projects on the go for me...however thought some of you boys might be interested...might have to change the name though...not sure what the go is there

http://perth.gumtree.com.au/c-Boats-Jet-Skis-boats-jet-skis-other-7-6-plate-alli-center-console-W0QQAdIdZ327001565

 Love this forum.  Very informative, so I'm going to continue to pick everyone's brains. 

 Im needing (wanting) a new gps/fish finder. 

The thing is, I have no idea what to get. Do I get a gps plotter and fish finder separately, or get a combo unit. 

What I need is colour maps, and preferably a colour fish finder. It needs to be easy to use and read for me and the wife. With the fish finder I'd like to have a reasonable idea of wha the bottom is made of and what the contours are shaped like. 

I only want to spend around $1000 all up. 

Any help is greatly appreciated. 

I am thinking about buying a brand new 539 Stacer Nomad with a 115 horsepower Optimax. Could any one share any thoughts/information on either of these products please?

Any input is appreciated. 

Hi guys,

Has anyone had got any experiences on the mercury saltwater series, 2 strokes.

I have seen alot of boats with them on and was wondering if they are reliable and are they good on fuel. trying to compare them to four strokes. seen a 115 in a 5.8m ali but wondering if it is not enough hp with 4 blokes on the boat.

planning on doing alot of trolling.

cheers

I know I have touched on this before, but running up the outboard today and previously, once the motor in forward (or reverse) goes past 2500rpm, it seems to misfire dramatically and brings it back to 2500rpm. The motor is a Johnson 150hp 1993 2 stroke.

My question is: Is this Johnsons way of limiting revs when the motor is not under load, or could it be something more to do with maintenance? I know there is a S L O W system to reduce engine revs when the engine gets too hot but this is when it has only been running for a few minutes and the tell tale and the block are still only warm. I have checked all the wiring and replaced some connections which were suspect but this has made know difference. It has fresh fuel, the plugs are new and set at .030" and the it does not overoil now.

Any thoughts?

It will be going into All Boats soon as that is where I bought it secondhand, and they have kindly offered to check it out under the so called warranty, but I am not a person to let an engine beat me!!!!

This is the engine.

Hi guys,

Long time reader but first post.

In the market for my first boat but confused on what to look at. I have been looking for 12+ months but ready to buy now. Budget is 30-40K and looking for a ali 5.8 to 6.1m boat. Looking for a plate hull preferably with a four stroke. But there is not much out there. I only have a grand vitara to tow it so cant go fiberglass.

This is where i am stuck. What manufacturers are good (i like the trailcraft)?

All the boats i have seen lately have 2 strokes and mostly the merc saltwater series. Is it worth hanging out for a four stroke? is the fuel economy/ noise that much better/quieter? what hp should i be looking at for this size boat? not sure if i want to fork out 35k for a 2 stroke and then upgrade the motor 2 years later.

Some advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Okay brains trust, I'm after your knowledge yet again.

I've had previous experience installing my own marine electrics, sounder, finder and Fusion sound gear, but the networking concept is a  bit foreign to me. I understand there is a standard which most new products are certified for, but from what I'm looking at none of the differing companies use the same style plug. The wiring in the connector for the new Furuno 585 I bought has no plug or termination, it's just a set of colour coded wires. All the wiring for networking the HDS 8 has a 2 ended plug. Can one be so crude as to lop an end off the HDS plug and join the wiring in a direct manner ? is there special terminations of the wiring which will stop it from working ? Is there some sort of junction box ?

All input is welcomed and appreciated
Cheers
Adrian.