Hi guys,

Before I get some fibreglass work done on my newly purchashed, second hand boat - I need to do something with the trailer. It's unregistered but doesn't seem to be in too bad condition. 

Has anyone had a boat trailer refurbished professionally ? Is this even a thing ?

I'm in no way skilled enough to do this sort of thing myself. 

I'm tossing up wether to refurbish the current trailer and get it registered, or bite the bullet and pay ~$4k for a new trailer. I feel the boat was great buy at $9k but if I add another $4k on top of that then it might be over capitalising.

One thing I know is that I want a good, reliable trailer that I am confident in taking up north. Maybe that answers my own question...

Cheers!

If you are that lucky and lived on the canals what is the opinion about choices to protect the boat.
Leaving it in to soak, then antifoul
Boat lifter
Drive on floating "bricks" - Float bricks
Net pontoon - the motions of the boat in the net rubs off growth?? Sea Pen
Old man is thinking about this so doing a little homework for him.
Like my privacy a little to much for this, plus $$$$ to move there a BIG issue, but still might store my boat there for ease off use.
cheers from anyone that can help.

 Hi

new to the site, just purchased my first cuddy cabin. It's a freedom escape 1750. 

I have a lowrance HDS 12, I think gen 1. This has a fuel sensor attached which is my only form of fuel reading. I would like to install a normal fuel gauge for peace of mind. The fuel consumption feature on this is really great.

how hard are fuel gauges to install and what's the best type?

thanks guys

Hi guys
looking at doing a bit of maintenance/freshen up on an engine I have bought - its a mercruiser 260 (5.7 carby) and starts and runs fine - the marinised externals all look a bit tired so I am looking to replace
*Manifolds and risers
*raw water pump impellor
*circulating pump
*thermostat

I am looking at non genuine parts mainly and my first look at prices between AUS and US indicate they are wildly different - most of the US priced stuff I have seen is on EBAY however and the shipping is huge (like 700 for manifolds and risers and 800 for shipping!)
Has anyone bought ex US with reasonable shipping? - cheaper shipping is likely to equate to slower shipping but I don't care so much about how long it takes

cheers

 Hi guys.

Anyone know roughly how much it'll cost to increase transom height?   My boat currently takes 20" outboards but most late model 140hp-175hp are 25" legs.   There's a notch in the middle of the boat where the outboard is mounted, which is about 150mm lower than the rest of the transom.  So, I don't need to increase the whole transom, just the notch.  The dimensions of the notch/gap (whatever is called) is 740mm wide and 150mm high

Is it DIY-able?

 Also, peoples thoughts on using jack plates?  The Americans seem to love it..

 Hey all

Im revamping a 4.3 kingsray just need some advice on the side supports.

My plan is to remove both front bench seat and fit a false floor with 2 pedestal seats at the front.

I have access to ally and welders and all that but just need some ideas on the best way to support the sides with gussets etc.

Thanks =)

Does anybody have an idea on the weight?, 5.8m, former sterndrive, now removed. It is of the heavier fiberglass variety, 1986 I believe.

 Hi guys.

Putting in twin fuel tanks and wondering what's the best way to plumb them?  I was thinking of plumbing the tanks into a 4 way valve (1, 2, both, off) and from there, into the fuel filter/water seperator.  Another thing is, my fuel filter has twin in and out. Can I plumb directly from the tanks into the filter, and not worry about the 4 way valve, and have individual shut off valves for each fuel line/tank?

Ideally I would like the motor to pull fuel from both tanks at the same time to keep fuel levels even.

Suggestions?  

Ranmarrrrrr, where are you?? Haha

Thanks!

 Looking to fo the plugs on my 60hp 4 stroke  yammy soon.

Is there a special thin walled tool available to remove them.?

If there is were is the best place to buy or order one from?

As from memory a standard vehicle sparkplug socket doesnt work due to the walls being to thick to get in there. (Was the case on my old 50hp anyway)

Thanks in advance

Good Morning all,

I have had an issue with a perished seal on the top of my fuel tank and the resultant leaked juice has lifted and rotted the cork decking on the step at the bow. Bit of a mess now...

Can anyone recommend anybody to make the repairs? I would prefer the cork decking be replaced on the whole step, plus a new face board and wide stair nosing for protection, shaped around the faring and pot winch.

There is also a patch on the starboard side where the fuel was snaking away and again lifted the cork decking that would need fixing.

Any and all suggestions very greatly appreciated! :)

Cheers,
Tim

Hi Guys

So I have noticed that when my boat is on the battery charger I am getting a tingle on my forearm if I brush any bare ali whilst standing outside the boat on the ground with bare feet.

When on the charger my isolator is switched to off and my nuetral connection is as it always is, being an ali boat the motor is earthed to the hull through its mounts (although all other nuetrals are run to a negative bus or to the neg on the battery.

Doing a google search this appears to happen quite often and some are blaming chargers that are only double insulated with no earth prong (which mine is).

Just wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue and what they did (if anything) to remedy it?

Steve

 Hi guys,

I have just purchased an older fibreglass boat (swiftcraft sea hawk). I have a few minor jobs that I am planning to get a fibreglasser conduct.

It has been suggested that I get the fibreglasser to drill core holes around the floor and inject foam into the bilge area to provide positive bouancy, better ride etc. From my searching I can only assume it would be a closed cell foam but I will need to confirm if this can be injected and if this is what is actually used...

Either way I have been told that it is not worth doing/worth the money as the swiftcraft are solidly built and the foam will only end up absorbing water, get heavy and promote rotting of the stringers etc.

But from what I read - if it is closed cell foam - then it won't absorb any water.

Can anyone who has had this same job done provide some feedback on it ? Is it worth doing to ensure safety and improve the ride or is there really not much point ?

Thanks !

Looking for recommendations for outboard servicing (Mercury) in Mandurah area.

Mobile would be good. Prefer to watch and learn if possible rather than drop into a shop.

Any recommendations? (or stay clear of?)

Cheers Rod

 Hey guys, I've been servicing my 225 4stroke outboard for a fair while now doing all the normal things,  just wondering if any of you blokes with an idea can tell me how often should I get the extras like tappet clearances adjusted and idle speed checked, any other things that I might want to get a pro to look at?

Thanks,

Matt

 What grease  are people using in there  pivots etc on thier outboards.?

Hey guys,

I was just wondering what the main differences were between the two?

cheers

 Im looking for a copy of the old logo for a Penguin Ultimate. Just wondering if anyone has one or a photo of one I could get made up by a signage person. Not sure if it's the same as on the Penguin Huntress or not. Can't seem to find anything around the country with the ultimate logo on it. I know these boats are getting old now so just trying to keep it original to a certain degree. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

ok so they are not worms! a type of sealant maybe?
- anyone seen anything like this before? - I hope they have come from a bowser rather than my tank! - if they are in my tank I cant imagine where they would have come from?
removed from a Racor unit with water sep at bottom, filter is about a year old (according to the date changed written on it) so they could have been in there a while -

Hey guys, I recently scored an old 5m Quintrex as a project boat.

I need to replace the false floor in it. I am basically stuck with using 1/2 inch marine ply as the floor.

(Old floor is the same) The biggest thing i need is what is the best stuff to use to glue the carpet to the ply?

The carpet was given to me by a mate who got it from BCF so its got no rubber backing on it.

Cheers

 Hi Folks, recently bought a project boat that has a 97 model evinrude 150hp. The boat only has 1 gauge hooked up (tacho) but there are 2 other sets of wires leading to nowhere which had been taped up by previous owner. Im guessing they are for other gauges?  If anyone has any idea what these would be for I'd love to find out. The first set is white with brown stripe, black and purple. The second set is grey, black and purple. Cheers, Steve

Hi all - Merry Xmas and all that stuff.

I currently have a Qunitrex 2016 F390 with a 2016 Suzuki DF20A with a few custom mods. When purchainsing the tinny I had all the intention of puuting it on top of the camper - however  circumstnce have changed and sold the camper .... I also have the F390 for sale. I want to up size - quite like the tiller style steering. Looking for a deep vee Hull with good stabilty at rest. I have been quite surprised at the size of engines that are tiller steered and am intrigued on what a 50 -70hp 4st would be like to steer in this configeration.

I am after something from 4.2 upto 5.6 - with some degree of under floor storage and with deep sides.

I enjoy going out and chasing Snapper / Dhuie in the open water as well as huinting Black Bream and mulloway in the estury / River. I know there is always a comprise and you have to pick the weather.

I need to be able to launch / retrieve / handle it on my own - not after any bling - just functionality.

I have been looking at the following models:

Savage 445 Safari - 50 Etec

Savage 525 Safari - 70 Yamaha 4st

Quintrex 449 Magnum - 60 Yamaha 4st

Stacer 429 Outlaw - 50 4st

Does anyone out there reconmend or have experienc in these or other models / engine packages.  

Any advise is most welcomed.

Have a safe a happy festive season - tight lines to all.......

 Hey Fellas,

Just seeing if anyone is able to offer some advice on why there is no water coming from the tell tale when flushing out my yamaha four stroke outboard?

Cheers,

Mitch

Time for the QL tabs to go, had enough but i can't fit the plate type tabs that i want so i am looking at Zipwakes.

I know all the Fury's have them now but does anyone else have much experience with them ? Good/Bad ?

http://www.zipwake.com/

Cheers

Vinnie

 HI, I have a Bonito 20 and was chasing info about these hulls. Can anyone confirm that they were originally made as a regency viscount then Estuary Marine took them over and made them as the bonito. Also I was told that the later models may have been extended with a pod. Does anyone know if this is true and if so does anyone know who has the moulds or what happened to them.

Cheers for any info and compliments of the season to all.

I’ve changed over my seals, bearing races and bearings and regreased it all and tightened the nut while turning the hub a good dozen or so times. Usually I do up the castle nut to ‘nut tight’ and then back it off a notch (finger tight) but when I’ve done this there is a tiny bit of play in the hub so I’m about half a notch from the sweet spot. I’ve used the wrench and tightened it just enough to slide in the cotter pin.

I have a 1996 Savage Scorpion 485 with a 50hp 2 stroke mercury outboard and have been considering repowering with a used low hours motor.

I know that modern 4 stroke motors are very fashionable and highly rated at the moment for fuel effiecency, low noise, reliability etc but my question is what were the 4 stroke motors like before EFI and all the new bells and whistles and are they worth considering for my situation.

The oil pump on my current motor is damaged in a way that would require it being pulled apart to fix and the mechanic said once you pull it apart then you might as well rebuild it. Currently the motor smokes alot at idle and the mechanic mentioned that because I am premixing the fuel at 50:1 while at idle the motor is actually getting too much oil and a correctly working oil injection system would stop this problem. The boat is slightly under powered and would take up to a 80hp according to the plate. 

Thanks

 I have a 4.3m derben runabout. Has a 70hp evinrude on it that's dead. Wondering what size motor I can put on it. It doesn't have a plate on it saying. Wondering if a 90hp will be ok. 

 hey folks

For a few weeks now at random the engine keeps cutting out. I could be underway at 20 knots or even at 8 knots the engine will just cut out but each time it will restart without any problems. It doesn't always cut out when I'm out so it's just very random. So far we've checked the batteries, the kill switch and have even put a laptop on the motor to check for any errors. There are no error codes flashing on the dash when the engine cuts out.

Anyone have ideas ideas or suggestions?

cheers

Stumpie

Been looking for a cheap fibreglass project and stumbled across a cheap barracuda 5.5m powered by an ancient 115hp mariner, will be having a look at it in a few days hopefully. Just wondering if anyone has any feedback or advice about this particular boat (ride/handling, problems to look out for etc). I looked in the search function and there was a rebuild done on one back in 2014 i think but not much info.

thanks in advance,

Steve

the brakes are working fine - lock up no probs if I turn up the controller but if I pull the break away pin they lock up but the pump keeps going - it didn't do that before I changed the pads
No leaking fluid, have bled it with the trailer nose down, nose up and level, did it from the back (furtherest caliper) first and then from the fronts and tried the reverse of that - pump still goes when I pull the pin continuously!!!!

Trailer is a 2014 and has done no work so doubt the unit would be faulty but it needs to go over the pits for rego and don't think they will pass it if the unit keeps going after the breakaway pin is pulled even if it does lock up the brakes

Before I send it off to someone does anyone have any bright ideas? (unit faulty?)