My yami 115 4 stroke tilt/trim is almost shot, have topped up hydraulics etc but last service it was mentioned it was on its way out due to wearing (cant remember exact terminology used as was a while back, but it does stop in place at times which is nerve wracking when trimming up at the islands and not going down!).

Didnt get a quote at the time, anyone got a rough idea of cost to replace?

Cheers

Adam

 Hi all,

I have just bought a brand new dual axle trailer from a "popular" Australian manufacturer.

Can you please check the rear of the hub in the attached pics.  This is from the non brake axle.  I was looking for the traditional rubber waterproof seal which sits outside the rear of the hub on the axle.  This trailer did not come with them.

Am I missing something or is this a new design of bearing protection?  The trailer has not seen water yet.

Thank you all in advance.

Chris

A heads up if you ever need a Suzuki IAC valve.

I had motor trouble over the weekend and took the donk (Suzuki 70 4stroke) in to my regular service centre. The problem was diagnosed as a faulty "Idle air control valve" and replaced at a cost of over $600 dollars. Part was $498 and labour $121.

A bit miffed at a $500 part I did some research to check pricing on the Suzuki part. I came acroos the ausfish thread - link below. Suzuki actually use a Mitsubishi part here (apparently quite common).  Same IAC valve used in some Outlanders, Lancers and other cars. Price? around $120. Further research showed "after market parts" available for under $50.

How do Suzuki justify rebadging a part and then chargeing 4 times the retail price for it? Daylight robbery. 

http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/archive/index.php/t-198488.html

Hello all.

I'm looking for some guidance on the installation of the oil seal protector and propeller stopper on my 2009 Suzuki DF250, and hope there are some forum members familiar enough with Suzuki outboards who will be able to explain to me what i've found.  I live in a remote town and unfortuntely i can't simply take it to a marine mechanic, hence why i've learnt to do much of the mechanical work myself, and want to ensure i get it right first time.

While regreasing the prop shaft today as part of some annual maintenance, i spotted what looked like melted plastic or rubber behind the propeller stopper.  Fearing a damaged oil seal, i proceeded to remove the propeller stopper and i came across a loose set clip, a thin tapered ring (almost like some kind of bearing race), and a melted/damaged oil seal protector.  Luckily the oil seal looks completely undamaged, which is a win, but i'm very confused with the setup between the propeller stopper and and the oil seal.  Refer to the attached photos.

A few things do look very odd:

1) I would have expected the oil seal to be seated further into the bearing housing, exposing a groove for the set clip to lock in the oil seal protector within the bearing housing itself.

2) The thin tapered ring doesn't fit in with the overall scheme, and doesn't show up on any drawings (mostly use Browns Point).

3) There was another person who had a similar observation on their DF225 and posted this on a Suzuki outboard forum in Aug-19 wwith no responses (https://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/forum/general-discussion/suzuki-outboard-parts-forum/52866-prop-shaft-seal-replacement).

I've somehow managed to get the pieces to fit together if they are indeed all meant to be used, but even still the arrangement doesn't seem right because the new oil seal protector could potenitally rub on the raised 93J1 text on the propeller stopper (i know all these parts should be spinning in sync on the prop shaft, but there is the potential they could slip causing damage).

I will be ordering a new oil seal protector within the next couple of days, and hope my usual dealer will have some answers, but i'm not inspired with confidence given the online resources i've already been through.

Look forward to hearing back something.

Tom

Hey guys,

after a local fibreglass repairs for my boat. Im in Baldivis and looking for someone who knows what they are doing and are good at what they do.  

 Gday All,

I saw this morning, there are a gel crack along the side of the  hull ( I am not sure since when)

Is this need to be fix immidiately? i am bit tight on budget, planning to fix it next year.

how much do you think it will cost to fix it (rough estimate)?  have a lot of sentimental with the tub so not planning to sell it

Thanks

Bono

 HI all,

Looking for answers with a tilt and trim issue. 

The other day I was out with my son fishing and I noticed that my tilt up was working but I was a little intermediately, I'd press the up button on my outboard throttle and it wouldn't go up straight away, I'd have to press/tap it a few times. By the time I got back to the ramp it wasn't working at all via the forward control and even on the outboard switch on the side. The whole time though the tilt down was working perfectly normal. When I got home and washed the boat I decided to check if it was the relay that was the issue so I swapped over the relay that was working with the one that wasn't and it didn't still work, but the weird thing is as soon as I put the relay that was working back on it was now not working! Thinking maybe it was on its way out too I bought a brand new one today and put it on and it still isn't working. 

Could someone please tell me if there is a fuse for this part somewhere? I do notice however that when I press on the button even before, it is making a clicking noise which I assume is the circuit opening but it is just dead with no movement almost like when a car has a flat battery, it makes that clicking noise but there's nothing. When I turn the button to start the outboard there is no dramas at all, I'm really perplexed with this one. 

Any help would be much appreciated as I really want to get it sorted so I can hit the water again this weekend. 

Thanks 

Geoff 

 I'm looking to swap my 27mhz radio out for a VHF system. I have a GME base and aerial:-

https://www.gme.net.au/catalogue/antennas/antenna-mounting-hardware/abl014b.aspx

The base has 27mhz stamped on it, but it looks like I can just buy a new Aerial and reuse this base which will save a whole load of work - does anyone know a reason that won't work? 

Thanks!

Daryn

 Hi all, 

Just wondering if any of you members have a new Mercury 75HP 4 stroke, and if so give some feedback on them please. I am close to purchasing a new boat and it has a Merc 4 stroke so would just like to know how they perform and what they are like with fuel economy etc. It would be pushing a 484 Alloy Side Console. 

Any feedback would be appreciated. 

Thanks

Geoff 

 Hi, my old boat had a 4s but the new one has a Carburetor'd Yamaha salt water series 2 V6 200 2 stroke.

my questions is for anyone with the same/similar 2s motor, if trolling for periods off time are the plugs likely to foul up (like on a dirt bike) or is this a non issue on these motors?

also what could I expect my fuel economy trolling around 7knots.

cheers 

 I've had my Sea Rider for about 10 years now, and the only real dollars spent on her was a new 250 Zuke back in 2012.

I thought it time to spend some coin and give the ole girl some attention.

First was taking the deck off, and removing both tanks. Rewelded one small crack in front tank, cleaned and pressure tested both to make sure they are ok.

Pressure cleaned the inside of the hull, and replaced all the hoses.

Gives me confidence when seeing solid welds along the hull reinforcing too!

Next was a colour upgrade: The old purple colour was significantly faded (Any red based colour fades faster than others!), so decided on a deep grey.

OLD: 

During Painting: 

New Paint Completed:

 (Also had the painter apply a coat of black anti-fouling on hull.)

Next was something I'd been thinking about for years but never got around to: A shade canopy over the deck.

Took it to an aluminium welder in Mandurah: PJ's and he welded it all up for me.

I didn't want corner posts, as they get in the way whilst fishing, so  decided on 2 rear uprights as shown to give it stability.

Also used 38mm pipe for greater rigidity to frame.

I made the cover up at work, and saved a few shekkels! 

Incorporated in the framework was a new bait board between the rear uprights.

Next on the list was grinding off all the old rivets, bubbled ali rust spots etc, then a bit of bog, and a buff and touchup respray where required.

Also welded on a 25x25mm angle to the front dash so the sunnies and gear stopped falling to the deck every time we went ovewr a decent swell.

Only a little modification, but a bloody frustration every trip when it wasnt done!

I still have to get the stickers done for the sides with the name etc, but that'll happen in a few months.

I intend to reproduce the Original SEA RIDER stickers for both sides to keep that original integrity look.

I'll add the name and image to the front on both Port and Starboad sides.

She's not yet completed, but I'm happy with progress.

I reckon she's got some great lines, and as I've always been happy with the way she performs on the water, its good to see her look good out of the water too!

 I re-launched her on the weekend just to get her wet again - now cant wait for a fishing trip!

Cheers.

Browny.

Hey guy

I had a look at my motor today and noticed some salt build up. I don't know much about motors, is this a problem? should I be washing out the base of the motor?

The pics are taken from the right had side of the motor.

Cheers

has anyone done this to there outboard ecu. i was thinking about it

but it is expensive. it would be good to hear anyone opinions if they

have had it done. they are telling me that a 150 4 stroke yamaha

is seeing 180 to 185hp after a re-map

cheers

Mark

 Morning team,

I am going to install a saltwater deck wash in on my fibreglass boat but being that I have only owned plate boats, should I stay clear of having my hole for my auction drilled through my transom or doesn't really matter if I seal it well with sikaflex/marine sealant ? 

Hi guys, wondering if I could get some opinions.

have a new boat arriving soon and have done a bit of research and am looking at fitting it with. Lowrance live HD’s 12, and having a 1kw TN260 and active 3 in 1 transducer.

most of my fishing will be bottom bouncing in up to 100m, but want the opportunity to do deeper drops when up at Exmouth, or when we get some really nice days. 

Any opinions between the Simrad ns evo 3 or the lowrance live HD’s? From what I understand the lowrance is a newer model, maybe not as powerful processor, and both have vessel view for the mercury 4 stroke.

anyone used this transducer setup? I have done a lot of reading and this seems to me to get a good balance, but I have found it quite mind biloggling sorting through the info.

any advice or experiences greatly appreciated!!

cheers

goat

I have an fcv 295, the transducer is 200B-8B/50B-9B low and high frequency I'm looking for help

or advice on how to properly mount the transducer for a better performance my boat is a 32ft

center console hull is 100% fibre glass... please I would appreciate anyone that has used or mount 

before a same model... thanks 

 Hi all, ive been in the market for a boat for a while now, mainly because im very fussy with what i want. But a common occurance ive had is motors with scary service history (mainly the etecs) but im wondering what it would cost for a re power. Looking for something 6m and ali so a 4st 150hp would be sufficient, not looking for a thirsty racer (got one in the garage already). I like the Suzuki's dunno much about yammys but saw a new merc at the ramp the other day and didnt realise it was running till the boat started moving which impressed me not really phased  by honda. Just looking for some info from you who have recently repowered cost of new and/or price you got trade in on the old. Just dont want to buy a problem motor then over capitalize too much on repowering. Cheers

 Hi All, 

 Hey Guys!

I have talked the Mrs into an upgrade, and shr really likes the look of a mustang 2000 tournament we have found. I'm taking here tomorrow to have a look in the flesh and get a feel for it.

I have done a search on here and there are a few posts going back several years, but I thought Id ask if anyone has some feedback on the hull, good/bad is welcome. 

This is a late 90's hull which needs quite the tidy up (polish, carpet, upholstery, bench seat replacement, new electronics, probably full rewire) , but is clean and appears solid at first inspection. It appears slightly underpowered with a 2st merc 135v6. (which will be replaced in due course).

Sitting on an almost new trailer (original trailer was nicked a couple years back)

What are your thoughts on these boats? 

Wondering how many on here have an old / cheap fiberglass - Ali boat and don't insure it ?

I've let mine laps but am considering changing company's and getting a condition report completed by a shipwright just for piece of mind.

The boat itself has all the safety gear, nav lights work etc, trailer recently recondition
and licensed. Its still solid and I see no issues with it or my skippering capability.

Purchase price was only 6k..

The only thing I think of is if its in a road accident or something did happen on the water....and a mate was injured etc.

Thoughts ??

 We picked up a 2010 Yamaha 6hp 2stroke for our boat. We are getting little bits coming out of the tell tail that looks like sand but crumbles between your fingers and blocks the outlet everynow and then. I was thinking it could be the internal anodes? Has anyone had this problem? Engine has had little use and said it was always flushed. Does anyone know the location of the anodes as I found little information on the net.

 Hi all I recently purchased a boat, i dont know much about boats and prices but i jumped in blindly... i probably should have opted for a pre purchase inspection but my eager personality got ahead of me as it was always a dream to own a boat...

i purchased a fiberglass 1978 Guardian Half Cab with a yamaha saltwater series 130hp engine with 72 running hours on a 7.4m dual axle trailer for 13k.

Issues with the boat are that there is apparently rot in the transom only minor at this stage according to the service mechanic and he reckons it will last 3-4 years.

Soft floor which is getting softer day by day and i think it will only just see out the season.

there is less then a cup of water out the bung after each trip but the bilge which sits above the lowest part in the hull pumps out dirty brown water which i think comes after rain or water through the deck.

My question is did i get ripped off? 

should i repair the floor and transom or sell the hull and find a new one?

any rough estimates on pricing and any recommended repairers !

Thanks all for reading and hope to hear back from you sorry if i am missing any information and i know its hard without physically seeing the boat. thanks.

Hi guys first post on the forums and would love some help on what battery's to get for my motor , Yamaha saltwater series 130hp  , needs 2 batteries and have no clue where to start , thanks 

Did a service on the '17 Mercury 150 on Saturday. Found the oil drain valve to be seized with plenty of salt build up.

I opened it up with a breaker bar but found one of the three o'ring had picked up/was damaged. Being Saturday afternoon that put a holt to Sunday fishing plans with the young fella...

None of the major mercury dealers carry the o'rings in WA. After a little bit of googling i found a US website the cross matched the Mercury part number with the actual o'ring size in the description #winning.

Quick trip down to Hallite and i now have a full set of o'ring/seals for the oil drain valve.

Problem is $10minimum and only $2 worth of items... So if any FW members with a new merc who do their own servicing suffer the same fate, I’ve got 4 spare sets of seals kicking around my garage.

 Hey all,

I have a Voyager 5.5 sports (possibly also known as a fisherman) which has been doing me proud for a couple of years now, however twice I have had small cracks in the hull and have had these repaired fine.
however the guys that patched it said that Voyagers were known for having quite thin glass layers on the hull and sides. I'm guessing a cost saving exercise at the time?
This is a constant concern to me whenever launching or retrieving in case of a swell or anything untowards that may push the boat out of alignment and I get another crack in the hull.
So the time has come to come to look at strengthening the hull (its too nice a boat to sell Vs he cost of replacement size boat) I want to add several layers of woven glass to the hull and replace stringers with Thermalite or composite fo some sort.

My questions are:

Does anyone know if the stringers in this model are fibreglass or timber? I know the keel is timber. But a chap in WA told me he thought the Voyagers had glass stringers? I know i'll find out when I lift the floor, but any thoughts from anyone has done this project before would be a great help.

and....when I lift the floor and remove/work on the stringers and add glass layers to the hull. Can I do this on the trailer? or should I look at different supports? my trailer is fully rollered with no keel support just rollers down doth sides. (all have good contact evenly it appears)
There are varying thoughts on how to support your boat when the floor comes out and I am hoping someone with Voayger experiemce may be able to help.

Hope to hear form anyone to get me through this dilemma. 

Couple of pics of the boat for reference...:-)
Cheers
Craig

So many yayyys,

after buying a new boat and having it professionally looked over before purchase and finding that I have large piece of metal missing to what seems to be my gear box or drive cast housing is really disappointing.
I haven't even taken to boat out in the water yet. How was this missed when I paid like 300 dollars for a engine pre purchase inspection when I found it working 10 mins of flushing the engine after hearing the same noise I heard when I was there with the mechanic for the inspection but was told it's normal for it to sound like that because there is no water acting against the prop. I believed and trusted them being they are the expert but after flushing it again, it just didn't sit right with me so took off 6 bolts and had metal pieces fall out. It's been like it for a while because the fragments are corroded and oxidised. 

being that it seems that the pre purchase inspection was not completed properly what options do I have other than insurance but looks like it will be a massive insurance job :( 

* Thread closed - Paul has requested his account removed * Adam

Hi Fellow shipwreckers

I have a cruise stringer 506 that drips water on drivers side while driving at a faster part does not leek when slow pace have tyred so much to fix this issue has any one have had this problem or what shall I do or go to I'm in Victoria (Berwick)

Thankyou 

Brad 

Hey guys. Curious if anyone has a 585 with an aftermarket mounting bracket and where they got it from?? Seen these pop up but can't find the part number of any ram supplier here in Perth. I'm curious on what attachment they use to attach the bracket to the unit ? I have only found one similar but has a rod attachment not a swivel ball ?

help would be amazing. Cheer guys  

Hi guys.

am thinking about having an auxillary bracket fitted when the new boat arrives. any suggestions as to whether any preffered side or is it just personal preference? just need ot know so i can make sure the swim platform doesnt get fitted on that side.

cheers!

goat.

Hi all
a few people have been discussing dinghy mods and side vs centre console in small boats- so i thought i would post some pics of a boat i converted a while back
I started with an old but solid savage gannet - 4.2m - it was bare bones - perfect to fit out how i wanted it which was purely for north west trips (Gnaraloo mainly)
I got a guy off gumtree to add raised side/bow rail and a bow sprit and rear boarding platform. Painted it up next to the wifes washing.....added the floor and forward casting platform which had a lot of storage underneath (and still functioned as a rear facing seat).
The fuel tank was moved forward and i installed a anchor well to get that gear out of the way. The side console had plenty of storage underneath leaving the decks uncluttered (well mostly...)
I bought a new/old stock mariner from hiteck and a basic gps/sounder, nav lights, bilge pump , forward bait board mounted on the old control box mount, rod holders etc etc - the end result was an awesome little boat that as i have mentioned previously - side console you can drive solo and is well balanced with two on (side by side seating on the bench)
This little boat went everywhere with us - from Gnaraloo to being towed out to the trench and used to flick fly's around whilst the other boat trolled - it caught a lot of fish and this whole unit cost very little to put together. I sold it a good 15 years ago to a guy in Karratha and wonder where it is knocking around these days
cheers