can someone help me out does anyone in the peel region straighten propellars

hoping someone may have done this before

I purchased a CDI Electronics switch box for my 30hp Mariner as mine was screwed and they don’t make the switch box for that engine anymore. Anyway the CDI switch box (part number 114-4952K1) says that I need to change the throttle cam as this new switch box has throttle adjusted timing. They have supplied the parts to change the cam but for the life of me I cannot get it to fit and if I did change the throttle cam then the new throttle cam doesn’t have the little inserts to connect to the gear selection cam.... I’ve put some photos up that may make it easier to understand.

my questions are has someone done this before?

why does it need throttle adjusted timing? When running was running fine on the pre set timing.

can I fit the switch box and not worry about the throttle adjusted timing? At the end of the day it’s just moving the trigger slightly to tell it when to fire, as I said was working fine before when it ran so why do I need it?

any help would be good 

I recently bought a Furuno fcv 628 sounder with a transom mount p66 transducer I have been unable to use the rez boost ,accu fish and bottom discrimination features My question is dose anyone use these features and how do they rate there effectiveness I am assuming my problem is the transducer so what transducer are you using

 Hi folks, 1st time post so hope its right.

I have recently acquired a Derben 18ft half cab. Stories abound about Derben being built light weight, is this an issue ?

Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of these Derben boats ?

At present looks like transom, stringers and floor need rebuilding by self.

My ears are open to all input good or bad.

Thanks in advance.

Gaz

Ps. 16kg and 11kg pinks 13m water out from Mandurah. Hope the pics work, hehe.

 Hi All, Apologies if this information has already been posted but thought it may be useful. I had two sets of expired flares to dispose and found it was a relatively easy process at the Randord Road Waste Transfer Station (Canning Vale). Just took the flares to the booth attendant who recorded them in their register and then took them over to a dedicated hazardous waste area and put in a secure container reserved for flares. Free to dispose and they accept hazardous waste from other areas. Hope this helps, stay safe.

Have some mates doing the Rotto swim this year and planning on taking the boat over to check it out, launching at Leeuwin ramp around 8am and hoping to get a beach mooring North of the main jetty as the south side is closed off. Question is at what point can you cross over to come into the North side of the main jetty, or is it just a case of beware of the swimmers? 

hi guys
I have recently rebuilt my console in my CC - in doing so I chucked the old screen as it was smoked and crazed and am looking to get a new one made which will run on the inside of the stainless top rail- just looking for clear but trying to understand if there is any reason to go acrylic or Perspex ?

any thoughts?

 hey guys are there any boat wreckers in perth?

im looking for an aluminium project boat 15-17ft.

not fussed if it doesnt have engine just looking for hull and trailer

let me know if you have anything

also are there any wreckers in perth that do boats? 

cheers! 

I have a VOLVO PENTA AQ140 that needs replacing I was wondering if any one has one or knows where I can get one or the best place to go or contact it does not need to be a Volvo Penta as long as it is compatable be it diesel or petrol,it has 280 drive leg

thanks
terry harrop

 Hi i was woundering if someone could tell me the best and cheapest place to take my boat motor for a service in perth sor preffabaly 

 I was out on my  2002 15hp mercury mariner the other day and it was running fine then i stoped and went to start it but it would only idle and wen i put it into gear it would just stall i was stranded for bloody 3 hours untill i drifted to sure is this a dirty carby do u  recken ?....cheers

 Does any one have any tips on freeing up zips on clears that have seized up or is it possible to have the zips replaced

 I'm finally getting around to installing a tipper and capstan on the Reefrunner. I've thought about how to do it for a long time, and came to the conclusion that I could just fab up another one out of marine ply and fibreglass, as I did on the last boat. The Dominator had old-style coamings, very awkward to mount a capstan on, but I came up with a good, easily removable mount, shown below. 

I extended the two back studs, shortened the front one, and just held it down with them, with ally plate underneath to spread the load. The block was built of 16mm marine ply, and heavily glassed. But the Reefrunner has a more modern coaming, but without enough room to simply flush mount it. The next size Caribbean up, the 2300, is wide enough, the Reefie just misses out. So a mount it is. I started with 3 offcuts of 12mm marine ply from the last job. Worked out rough size required, drilled the cutout hole through the first two, then laminated them up with resin and glass mat, clamped together.

I wondered why the template specified a 102mm cutout for the penetration, plus cutouts for the motor terminals. I wanted as much meat as possible around the stud holes, so I went 92mm hole, plenty of room. Except that it sat up on one side, didn't spot the little casting protrusion on the underside. So A bit of router work was necessary.

All ready for shaping before I start hot laying multiple layers of mat .

Hi Guys,

I'm looking at getting an electric trolling motor so I can use anchor mode to fish offshore from Perth and down south.

I'm looking at an 80lb Motorguide or Minn Kota. Leaning towards the Motorguide as it links to Lowrance sounders.  I have a 6m plate boat, its not a big 6m.

They sound good but I want to know how they work in the wind and swell that we get on the west coast. Are they worthwhile?

Any info will be appreciated.

Thanks

howdy
a week or so ago someone was asking about hull cleaner - I had my CC in the water for a few weeks over xmas and decided to give the hull a clean on the weekend using Peter G's hull cleaner
- the pic below doesn't show it so well but "non dirty" part of the hull was actually quite stained and has come up really well
Given the warmer temps it works better to do it in sections of 1-2m of a time - spray it on, agitate after about 5 minutes and spray off after about 10 (before it dries)

We're running a dual battery system through a voltage sensitive relay. All works well. The second (house) battery is a big deep cycle which we'll use to run an Engel during an upcoming trip. We're going to run a 120 watt solar blanket as additional charging to the engines alternator.
I'm wondering whether it's ok to run the panel at the same time as the engine is charging or is it a case of one or the other, but not both Thanks in advance, John.

Have seen a lot of bad reviews on USA forums about corrosion issues on the early Yamaha 4 strokes, especially in the exhaust. I am considering buying a boat with this motor, just wondering if anyone in WA and Australia has had any issues with this, and if I should avoid this motor, anyone who has had first hand experience with this, good or bad, I would like to here your opinions.

thanks

I am looking at a new boat and have honed in on a Redline 6.6 or Genesis in runabout configuration. Need tow weight under 2.5t (2016 prado) so pretty sure that rules out a hard top. Want something capable of getting to the Abrolhos. 400l fuel tank? But mostly day trips and chasing crays. Not after fancy crap that can break. Fresh water (container) or toilets (ocean or bucket). 

Anyone on here got one of these? Keen on feedback. Interested in how people made their choice and any features you consider a must have. Both look like solid rigs. Redline maybe more aggressive chines? Better ride? Any issues with corrosion from water remaining in these if they don’t drain fully?

Recent posts were very complimentary of the new merc 4 strokes so leaning that way also.

 I know, should be able to search this, but i click all I like on the Search function and nothing happens. So can people give me some names for fabricators who build a solid tipper. Needs to be strong enough for full size pro pots.

 Guys seen some previous posts on tips to free up steering on the motor pivot shaft where the grease has hardened, my motor is 90 HP Suzi 4 stroke. Interested if anyone has tried the following tip suggested via a you tube clip.

I have disconnected steering cable and confirmed no issues there.

The tip suggested heating up the area in between grease nipples ( I would suggest with hair dryer or the sorts) while trying to pump frsh grease in and turning motor. Any thoughts or recommendations.

Last resort is to remove power head to access the shaft?

I've got a Seafarer V-Sea with the max 90hp, 2x batteries, deckwash and a 90l underfloor fuel tank that starts at the bilge and finishes at the end of the deck.

Long story short she's bum heavy and the previous owner whacked a hydrofoil on it to negate this and I have tried to sort the issue with the foil removed.

I have since moved the outboard up a hole, then up another and back down one which has helped. I also bought a 4 blade prop which helps in smaller choppy conditions but the bow is still lifting too high over big chop and swells causing the hull to slap rather than slice through.

I put the foil back on and now with the 4 blade prop she slices through the  heavy chop like a dream (30knot winds in the Peel) but I just don't like the way the foil grabs when you come down a bit of swell or chop and pushes you in one direction.

Has anyone had a similar problem and negated this by putting some weight in the anchor well? I could chuck on an anchor winch with butloads of chain but looking for a cheaper option for now.

Cheers JF

Chasing any and all info i can for the boat builders that once were "HYDRA CRAFT" outta the Territory.

From what i can work out they have since closed doors, as i think they traded via GS marine??

im trying to get a bit of info for a hull before spending my $$$$. 

Feel free to comment here, or send me a private msg if wanna keep it secret :) 

Cheers in advance crew.....

 G'day all,

Just wondering if anyone can give any advice on applying flowcoat please. 

I hit the trailer when retrieving the boat just before Christmas and gave a real deep scratch to the gelcoat and also dug out a little fiberglass I believe, so over the last week and a bit I've scrapped out the scratch to fill it, and have also laid a little bit of new fiberglass where I gouged some out. 

Anyway I sanded the area back laid up the glass and when I was ready to do the gelcaot I went to get it at Whitworths, and the guy serving me there tells me I shouldn't use gelcoat for the job, he recommended I use flowcoat. He explained that gelcoat dries tacky and it is more used for making molds, and that flowcoat is for a finish over fiberglass. 

So I take his advice and buy the flowcoat, now I have taped up the area with double thickness masking tape (put 2 strips for every side of the outside area that I didn't want to get the new flowcoat over) and applied a thick-ish layer of flowcoat with a paint brush.... All good the flowcoat has gone off and I have left it 24 hours before sanding it, but the problem I am getting is I do the first bit of sanding with a higher grit snadpaper say a 240 or 120 grit and lightly knock of the rough brush strokes from the brush, I then come down to a 400 grit wet and dry, down to a 600 grit wet and dry, and lastly a 1200 grit wet and dry, and the main problem is before I've even hit it with the 1200 grit I can see the outside area of the repair has the fiberglass showing through, and the area I am working on is basically showing through also, its like not sanding too heavy handed, and using a low grit sandpaper, but I'm wearing away the gelcoat of the outside area and then also the repair area. 

I've watched a heap of videos on repairs to fiberglass damage, minor and major, and one thing I have noticed with most (american) is they use gelcoat, not flowcoat and their work doesn't seem to have the repair work show through, or they rub too much gelcoat off from the outside area of the repair. 

Am I possibly not putting enough flowcoat on? from what I have watched I believe I am applying the same amount as the guys in the videos, or should I overlap the repair area heaps more and try and blend it in? Or should I spray it on instead of painting it on, or should I use gelcoat?

Really stuck on this one and so wanna get my boat out on the water again, any advice very much appreciated. 

Thanks 
Geoff

 Spotted this boat at the Skyshow, "Yampi Lad",

Anyone know why designbed/built it?
Good looking hull on it

gday all, Just noticed the vhf radio in my boat was working properly just wondering if I am up for a new one or it is a simple fix. Was working fine till yesterday. Now turns on, but cant read any numbers on the screen, and only hear static. cant change channels or seem to be able to transmit or anything. Its a GME brand probably about 10 years old.

cheers for any tips

 Howdy all

just chasing a bit of info from the gurus or techies on site, I have a 1990 90hp v4 evinrude 2 stroke outboard.

when I start it at home with the muffs on I can get up to 3000rpm when using idle lever, but when I'm in the water and at ramp starting it I can only get about 1000-1100rpm with idle lever which makes it hard to warm the ole girl up as she stalls a bit if I can't get the revs up any ideas as too why cheers and thanks.

 Hey guys, I posted on here a few weeks ago about my motor beeping only when in reverse, and only on the water. It's now started beeping when in neutral as well, but again only when in the water. The deep goes away when you put it into gear and take off a bit. I can't get it to beep at all when flushing with the earmuffs at all. I've had the mechanic plug into it and it's not throwing any alarms at all. I'm going to take a video when on the water next for him to have a look at it. But, anyone got any ideas to try?

Startng to toy with the idea of a new motor for my 625 Cruise Craft.  Currently has a 200 Opti but would go 4 stroke on a new one.  Any thoughts on Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda or Merc?  

Startng to toy with the idea of a new motor for my 625 Cruise Craft.  Currently has a 200 Opti but would go 4 stroke on a new one.  Any thoughts on Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda or Merc?  

Am going to relocate my  Airmar B164 through hull transducer further torwards the back of the boat (was never installed in the right location) and install a new Airmar B75 2nd transducer to connect to a 2nn combo unit, HDS carbon 9. This will leave a nice hole in the hull where the current through hull tranny resides.

John F has offered his skills to fit the current and new trannies, but i need a good fiberglass person to patch the hole fwhere the current transducer comes from

Anyone happen to have anyone they could receommend?

Cheers

Bodie