Hey All,

Probably a bit late for this as i've already paid for and collected the boat but i'd like to hear everyones pro's and cons for Polycraft boats.

The one i bought is a 5.3m Cuddy Cabin (2007) with a 115hp suzuki (450 hours).

What i've heard so far is mostly good, rides like glass but tough(er) than ally. Only negative is they're hard to modify and repair should things go bad.

Let me know what you think good or bad.

OD

need a bit of advice regarding coil packs in my 70hp Johnson 2 stroke.... here’s the story

headed out last night and at the boat ramp the engine was running real rough and Smokey. As I had just changed the spark plugs I had the old ones with me so swapped them back over, made no difference. Checked the spark by pulling the lead of when running haha. The top one shocked me hard, middle one didn’t shock me at all, bottom one shocked hard again (good way to test I know haha) swapped leads over and made no difference. Mucked around for a bit checking coil wiring and swapping spark plugs again but still no difference. Thought bugger it we will head out slowly as we were just going in the sound for snapper. Less than 5 minutes into it the engine came good and hasn’t missed a beat since

my question is I didn’t think the coil pack would have an intermittent fault, it’s either working or not? Correct me if I’m wrong. I’ve re checked all wiring and terminals again today and all is fine and runs fine on the muffs.

anyone have any ideas or had similar issues?

Does anyone know if the cruise craft reef raider 166 is any good?

I am looking at one in pretty good condition for its age with a 90hp yamaha 2 stroke on it (2010) 180hrs and im just curious if anyone has any experience with them. I have been told that boats with chines dont handle that well..... if anyone could give me some feedback or personal experiences that would be great.

Hi all.

Does anyone have a link to download Suzuki service manuals (specifically looking for a 2009 Suzuki DF250) from the internet?

The forum search function is not working for me (clicking it opened up a spam tab, and now i can't click the search pane at all).

Thanks in advance.

 Hi All,

im looking to change out a few rollers to bunks on my trailer. Actually, i would prefer someone else to do it due being extremely lazy.

Ive seen some recommendations on here some time ago, but cant find them now.

I am North of the river, but appreciate i might have to travel South. 

Any recommendations on who can do the work?

Thanks

 What are peoples thoughts on replacing the timing belt tensioner, when replacing the timing belt,  some mechanics tell me i dont need to and some do. F225fet 2011

 Hey all, Just wondering where Mercury owners get their motors serviced SOR. Thanks

Hey
Does anyone know of have photos where the anodes are in a 70hp Johnson? I know the ones on the leg and skeg but cant find the ones on the engine. With my 200 yammy on my big boat they are between the spark plugs but I cannot seem to find them on my Johnson and Google isn't much help

Any tips or pics would be helpful

Cheers

Been a while since this type of thread was updated.

Whos kicking goals in Mobile Marine Service NOR these days?

(Need a Throttle cable replaced on a Yam F200)

 The Yammy manual says it should take 2.5 litres, and the dipstick oil level should read halfway up the hashed part of the dipstick.

(including new filter)

I only put in 2 litres and its halfway up the dipstick.

Should I be worried, the manual mentions that the sump is tapered smaller at the top, so not to over do the filling.

 Hi all.

The sump in my yammy f50 is full of fuel anyone had this happen before.

Placcy tank is normally left connected and the valve closed when not in use and never had problems before. I'm guessing the tank has pressurised and pushed a heap of fuel through the carbies or maybe the fuel pump diaphragm. Only found out as when the motor was started the motor was running rough and really smoky and then cut out so lifted the cowling and there was fuel everywhere pulled the dip stick out and it came pouring out.

Now to find out how badly damaged the motor is. 

Any ideas from anyone. 

Cheers

Rod

Hey guys, in the market for a new ali trailer, who you guys reccommend? Boat is a 23ft CC, Based South of River

Hello Boating Fishos,

So I've narrowed down my next secondhand boat purchase to either CC 600 or Seafarer 6.0.

I'm very interested in hearing peoples reviews and experiences on these boats, especially owners.

The boat would be used 80% fishing out to 20nm and 20% skiing and squidding

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I do very much like the Seafarer however after having a hull with a pod previously I don't want to go back. Yes I know it's down to the keel and not very long - but once bitten twice shy.

Also I'm guessing these boats would go over the 2T limit for towing?

Many thanks,

Hello Boating Fishos,

So I've narrowed down my next secondhand boat purchase to either CC 600 or Seafarer 6.0.

I'm very interested in hearing peoples reviews and experiences on these boats, especially owners.

The boat would be used 80% fishing out to 20nm and 20% skiing and squidding

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(simultaneously)

I do very much like the Seafarer however after having a hull with a pod previously I don't want to go back. Yes I know it's down to the keel and not very long - but once bitten twice shy.

Also I'm guessing these boats would go over the 2T limit for towing?

Many thanks,

 hi guys, just trying to suss out what this unit is as new to boating and interested. not the bilge but the other unit, it has no inlet/outlet pipes/lines to it just power thats not connected? any thoughts its sealed to the bottom of the boat?? something to prevent electrolosis?? any info would be awesome..  STACER 475 RUNABOUT.. cheers

Been thinking about installing a twin battery system in my little 4.7m Quintrex coast runner with 60HP 4/stroke on the back,  haven’t had a problem to date, but just to be a little more self-reliant when we’re out the back of GI on FFB etc.

The battery in the boat is still fine (can’t see a date) but I don’t know it’s full history as I’ve only owned her for just under a year. I currently take a Lithium jumpstarter battery pack out with us and haven’t had to use in anger but think a more permanent solution would be better peace of mind.

I don’t have an huge loads only the usual electrical for this size craft -  Nav lights, bilge pump, VHF radio, 7” combo fishfinder/GPS, some LED strip under the gunnels, USB charging port and cig lighter socket just in case.

Most operating is daylight hours.

Going to use a Blue Sea Mini Add-A-Battery kit (65A charging) and buy a new battery for starting and move the current battery over to power the house circuits.

Should I just bite the bullet and get two new batteries and be done with it?

Thinking a standard marine battery with at least 70AH would suffice for the above house loads?

I have room next to the existing battery for the second battery or alternately I can put it on the other side of the transom with slightly longer cables to distribute the weight more evenly, thinking opposite side would be best as she’s only little and light?

Currently I have rigged up a weatherproof Anderson socket on top of existing battery box via a flying lead for charging with a smart charger in the shed, as I got sick of trying to remove the lid from the battery box (difficult), will this still work via a VSR for a dual battery setup when isolated from the loads (off) ?

 Thanks in advance guys.

 Hi guys. 

I am looking at a 5.2 renegade built by hampton yachts just wondering if anyone has any info on them. I  cant find too much on the net. 

Hull and side thickness?

Build quality?

Cheers 

Craig 

 I see Whitworths have some good prices on Lowrance and Raymarine gear at present. Don’t have a link, but got an email today for it.

 I've been mulling over getting a boat for sometime and getting a bit more serious about the idea of late. Wondering if anyone on the forums has experience of using/owning the panga style boats in WA? I'm thinking the classic Yamaha designs that are used across South East Asia, central America etc. I like the shallow draft and ability to get planing with smaller engines as I'd like to keep the boating setup easy to manage store etc. Thinking about 5.8-6m size with say 50hp for fishing around Perth and trips to Rotto when conditions are right given size of the boat? Any thoughts or experiences? 

I've got a 5.4m ali trailcraft would I be able to launch and retrieve in broome, or do you need a drop down wheel?

 I've just discovered that my Merc gateway will only trnsmit EITHER fuel flow, or fuel level, not both. Got it from this thread on THT.  www.thehulltruth.com/marine-electronics-forum/949181-merc-150-four-stroke-circuit-diagram-fuel-level-sensor.html  So that answers a question. The fuel manager on the Axiom Dashboard works on engine fuel flow vs whatever tank capacity you enter, should be accurate. But, of course, fuel managers like that don't know if you have been robbed, entered an incorrect amount when refilling, etc, so I'd like to hook up the existing tank sender to a gauge as a cross-check. I seem to recall not all senders and gauges match up, with different resistance senders available. I see 30-240 ohms is fairly common, and, as the tank is empty, I should be able to put an ohmmeter across it to check? 

 Left fuel in the tank, approximately 8. Months,  didn't realize it was E 10, seized the high pressure fuel pump,  very time consuming to change. Got a new pump, the system had been covered but not sealed for the 10days until I had the part, fitted it and,,,,   no go. blaming myself for not sealing the system until I could do the job, started trouble shooting. After a good hour of draining ,flushing, checking power,  discovered the new fuel pump did not work. Pulled it out of the motor , tested it with a multimeter, dead shorted. $75.oo Chinese knock off. No problems with warranty, all good now.

Moral of the story, don't assume because something is new it's perfect, check the simple things first.

If you get red unleaded fuel, and suspect it's E10, mix 100mm of water with 100mm of the fuel, and if you let it settle for a while, and finish up with 90mm of fuel floating on 110 mm of water, its E10.

 Is there a product/ capping that goes over gunwhale rubber? 

Mine is all cracked and faded out, however it's glued on and not easy to remove...

Howdy All

Shifting gone very stiff on the last outing (yesterday)
Throttling back from high revs in forward was tight.
Adjusted the throttle friction and made no difference.
Shifting into reverse by the end of the day was really really hard (very nearly hit the dock coming in)
Just engaged reverse but wouldn't rev up.

First off its not the cables or the remote - already pulled them apart and isolated them.
When the cables are disconnected at the engine, the cables and remote move ok, no binding etc

Checked the shifter on the side of the block and... cracks.. so todays trip is cancelled :(

Given the cracks are in the slide I would assume its something downstream into the gearbox binding up? ie the cables can provide enough pressure to crack the slide.

When the cables are disconnected its still really stiff to come back from fwd. (Goes in fwd ok.ish)
Was using 2 ring spanners top and bottom to isolate any twisting of the slide but was still very tight.
Was spinning prop with foot to ensure the gearbox was moving against it - ie not blocked by gears meshing.

I cant find any schematics of what the shift slide is attached too other than its under the engine block and tucked away.

Anyone got any pointers before I let the mechanics at it?

I keep my boat on hardstand so trailer road use at the moment is not an issue - which is good because the trailer on my new (to me) centre console is not rated for the boat. I have been looking for a second hand one that is legal to be able to tow it if needed but they are thin on the ground - so a mate of mine who owns a steel fabrication business (handy chap to know) is building me one - yay!

I just have to provide plans and pictures... so I have drawn up a sketch below and overall she will be around 8.5 metres, in steel and will have elec/hydraulic break away fitted. At this stage all I can come up with in terms of nice to haves are folding drawbar (hinged) and will probably enclose the triangle section in mesh (helps with stones and is easier to walk on)and bang a few eyelets around the place to assist tying covers down

1) Apart from that any other suggestions that you would put on if you could? -
2) sourcing axles/springs, hubs/calipers, hydrastar units, etc etc - Martins??? anyone else worth trying?

cheers

 G'Day All,

Can anyone please show where I connect my interface cable at the engine?

All the sockets look to have plugs already in them so I am confused.....any pictures would be most welcomed.

Tight Lines

GO

Discovered I have a hose flushing port after almost 3 years of owning my boat. The manual says to flush it either way but not to run it when using the flushing port but is it best to use the flushing port while the engine is still warm or will it still flush out the necessary areas cold?

 Decided that as my Suzi’s are getting onto the dreaded 1000 hrs I’d better have a closer look at them.

Im not 100% but I thought they may have dropped 100-200rpm at full bore.

While there are a few simple reasons that this could be the case, (stretched cables, fuel filters etc) I thought it warranted a closer look at them in general.

So stripped off all the intake gear, injectors, fuel pumps and Vapor separator 

A days fiddling around but internally everything looked spotless, barely a light film of faint oil in the intake with zero build up (no EGR system helps), 

Clayton’s clean of the injectors with carby cleaner and a 9 volt battery, no blocked nozzles

Stripped vapor seperator and pump/strainer (no varnish or clumps to be seen as others have reported)

Changed LP and HP filters

Decoked with plugs out from a spray can (not sure how effective this is but some shit came out)

Adjusted throttle cable.

All other service items done at end of last trip.

Chucked it in the water and gained about 150rpm on that outboard. (5400-5600)

Never been 100% happy with the 21” props as we run very heavily laiden, so borrowed a pair of 19” off my good friend Mr Stone  and with boat very light they got to near 6000 which I am happier with as they should be near max rpm of the range at lighter load.

So a quick WTB ad turns up someone with a pair of used 19” from Ryan C which probably need a tidy up so now just to wait for the weather to f**k off next week and off to the islands for

 Hi all,

New member so first of hello. I've been directed to this site many of times and always found the information great.

Anyone got any reviews or feedback on Spitfire Trailers? Got a price on a brandnew full aluminium trailer, with torsion springs, hydraulic brakes, LED lights, walk platform along with the boat fitted for $4550. I don't really know anything about them or if they've had a few recalls or bad batches etc, but the price is pretty hard to knock back.

I can buy a galvanised chinese seatrail trailer but I'm worried about the galvanising which I've heard there has been afew rusting out in under 2 years, but the sales rep did tell me it was an issue of a few years ago and that they have sorted that problem out with the manufactuer, the main problem was the steel not being cleaned properly. 

Any feedback on the spitfires would be much appreciated. 

Thanks 

Geoff 

 Hi wreckers 

I am getting to old to manually pull a anchor.

Thinking about a winch for the trusted Traily 5.4m.

Any recommendations would be  appreciated 

Cheers 

Neels