Hello Boating Fishos,

So I've narrowed down my next secondhand boat purchase to either CC 600 or Seafarer 6.0.

I'm very interested in hearing peoples reviews and experiences on these boats, especially owners.

The boat would be used 80% fishing out to 20nm and 20% skiing and squidding

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I do very much like the Seafarer however after having a hull with a pod previously I don't want to go back. Yes I know it's down to the keel and not very long - but once bitten twice shy.

Also I'm guessing these boats would go over the 2T limit for towing?

Many thanks,

Hello Boating Fishos,

So I've narrowed down my next secondhand boat purchase to either CC 600 or Seafarer 6.0.

I'm very interested in hearing peoples reviews and experiences on these boats, especially owners.

The boat would be used 80% fishing out to 20nm and 20% skiing and squidding

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(simultaneously)

I do very much like the Seafarer however after having a hull with a pod previously I don't want to go back. Yes I know it's down to the keel and not very long - but once bitten twice shy.

Also I'm guessing these boats would go over the 2T limit for towing?

Many thanks,

 hi guys, just trying to suss out what this unit is as new to boating and interested. not the bilge but the other unit, it has no inlet/outlet pipes/lines to it just power thats not connected? any thoughts its sealed to the bottom of the boat?? something to prevent electrolosis?? any info would be awesome..  STACER 475 RUNABOUT.. cheers

Been thinking about installing a twin battery system in my little 4.7m Quintrex coast runner with 60HP 4/stroke on the back,  haven’t had a problem to date, but just to be a little more self-reliant when we’re out the back of GI on FFB etc.

The battery in the boat is still fine (can’t see a date) but I don’t know it’s full history as I’ve only owned her for just under a year. I currently take a Lithium jumpstarter battery pack out with us and haven’t had to use in anger but think a more permanent solution would be better peace of mind.

I don’t have an huge loads only the usual electrical for this size craft -  Nav lights, bilge pump, VHF radio, 7” combo fishfinder/GPS, some LED strip under the gunnels, USB charging port and cig lighter socket just in case.

Most operating is daylight hours.

Going to use a Blue Sea Mini Add-A-Battery kit (65A charging) and buy a new battery for starting and move the current battery over to power the house circuits.

Should I just bite the bullet and get two new batteries and be done with it?

Thinking a standard marine battery with at least 70AH would suffice for the above house loads?

I have room next to the existing battery for the second battery or alternately I can put it on the other side of the transom with slightly longer cables to distribute the weight more evenly, thinking opposite side would be best as she’s only little and light?

Currently I have rigged up a weatherproof Anderson socket on top of existing battery box via a flying lead for charging with a smart charger in the shed, as I got sick of trying to remove the lid from the battery box (difficult), will this still work via a VSR for a dual battery setup when isolated from the loads (off) ?

 Thanks in advance guys.

 Hi guys. 

I am looking at a 5.2 renegade built by hampton yachts just wondering if anyone has any info on them. I  cant find too much on the net. 

Hull and side thickness?

Build quality?

Cheers 

Craig 

 I see Whitworths have some good prices on Lowrance and Raymarine gear at present. Don’t have a link, but got an email today for it.

 I've been mulling over getting a boat for sometime and getting a bit more serious about the idea of late. Wondering if anyone on the forums has experience of using/owning the panga style boats in WA? I'm thinking the classic Yamaha designs that are used across South East Asia, central America etc. I like the shallow draft and ability to get planing with smaller engines as I'd like to keep the boating setup easy to manage store etc. Thinking about 5.8-6m size with say 50hp for fishing around Perth and trips to Rotto when conditions are right given size of the boat? Any thoughts or experiences? 

I've got a 5.4m ali trailcraft would I be able to launch and retrieve in broome, or do you need a drop down wheel?

 I've just discovered that my Merc gateway will only trnsmit EITHER fuel flow, or fuel level, not both. Got it from this thread on THT.  www.thehulltruth.com/marine-electronics-forum/949181-merc-150-four-stroke-circuit-diagram-fuel-level-sensor.html  So that answers a question. The fuel manager on the Axiom Dashboard works on engine fuel flow vs whatever tank capacity you enter, should be accurate. But, of course, fuel managers like that don't know if you have been robbed, entered an incorrect amount when refilling, etc, so I'd like to hook up the existing tank sender to a gauge as a cross-check. I seem to recall not all senders and gauges match up, with different resistance senders available. I see 30-240 ohms is fairly common, and, as the tank is empty, I should be able to put an ohmmeter across it to check? 

 Left fuel in the tank, approximately 8. Months,  didn't realize it was E 10, seized the high pressure fuel pump,  very time consuming to change. Got a new pump, the system had been covered but not sealed for the 10days until I had the part, fitted it and,,,,   no go. blaming myself for not sealing the system until I could do the job, started trouble shooting. After a good hour of draining ,flushing, checking power,  discovered the new fuel pump did not work. Pulled it out of the motor , tested it with a multimeter, dead shorted. $75.oo Chinese knock off. No problems with warranty, all good now.

Moral of the story, don't assume because something is new it's perfect, check the simple things first.

If you get red unleaded fuel, and suspect it's E10, mix 100mm of water with 100mm of the fuel, and if you let it settle for a while, and finish up with 90mm of fuel floating on 110 mm of water, its E10.

 Is there a product/ capping that goes over gunwhale rubber? 

Mine is all cracked and faded out, however it's glued on and not easy to remove...

Howdy All

Shifting gone very stiff on the last outing (yesterday)
Throttling back from high revs in forward was tight.
Adjusted the throttle friction and made no difference.
Shifting into reverse by the end of the day was really really hard (very nearly hit the dock coming in)
Just engaged reverse but wouldn't rev up.

First off its not the cables or the remote - already pulled them apart and isolated them.
When the cables are disconnected at the engine, the cables and remote move ok, no binding etc

Checked the shifter on the side of the block and... cracks.. so todays trip is cancelled :(

Given the cracks are in the slide I would assume its something downstream into the gearbox binding up? ie the cables can provide enough pressure to crack the slide.

When the cables are disconnected its still really stiff to come back from fwd. (Goes in fwd ok.ish)
Was using 2 ring spanners top and bottom to isolate any twisting of the slide but was still very tight.
Was spinning prop with foot to ensure the gearbox was moving against it - ie not blocked by gears meshing.

I cant find any schematics of what the shift slide is attached too other than its under the engine block and tucked away.

Anyone got any pointers before I let the mechanics at it?

I keep my boat on hardstand so trailer road use at the moment is not an issue - which is good because the trailer on my new (to me) centre console is not rated for the boat. I have been looking for a second hand one that is legal to be able to tow it if needed but they are thin on the ground - so a mate of mine who owns a steel fabrication business (handy chap to know) is building me one - yay!

I just have to provide plans and pictures... so I have drawn up a sketch below and overall she will be around 8.5 metres, in steel and will have elec/hydraulic break away fitted. At this stage all I can come up with in terms of nice to haves are folding drawbar (hinged) and will probably enclose the triangle section in mesh (helps with stones and is easier to walk on)and bang a few eyelets around the place to assist tying covers down

1) Apart from that any other suggestions that you would put on if you could? -
2) sourcing axles/springs, hubs/calipers, hydrastar units, etc etc - Martins??? anyone else worth trying?

cheers

 G'Day All,

Can anyone please show where I connect my interface cable at the engine?

All the sockets look to have plugs already in them so I am confused.....any pictures would be most welcomed.

Tight Lines

GO

Discovered I have a hose flushing port after almost 3 years of owning my boat. The manual says to flush it either way but not to run it when using the flushing port but is it best to use the flushing port while the engine is still warm or will it still flush out the necessary areas cold?

 Decided that as my Suzi’s are getting onto the dreaded 1000 hrs I’d better have a closer look at them.

Im not 100% but I thought they may have dropped 100-200rpm at full bore.

While there are a few simple reasons that this could be the case, (stretched cables, fuel filters etc) I thought it warranted a closer look at them in general.

So stripped off all the intake gear, injectors, fuel pumps and Vapor separator 

A days fiddling around but internally everything looked spotless, barely a light film of faint oil in the intake with zero build up (no EGR system helps), 

Clayton’s clean of the injectors with carby cleaner and a 9 volt battery, no blocked nozzles

Stripped vapor seperator and pump/strainer (no varnish or clumps to be seen as others have reported)

Changed LP and HP filters

Decoked with plugs out from a spray can (not sure how effective this is but some shit came out)

Adjusted throttle cable.

All other service items done at end of last trip.

Chucked it in the water and gained about 150rpm on that outboard. (5400-5600)

Never been 100% happy with the 21” props as we run very heavily laiden, so borrowed a pair of 19” off my good friend Mr Stone  and with boat very light they got to near 6000 which I am happier with as they should be near max rpm of the range at lighter load.

So a quick WTB ad turns up someone with a pair of used 19” from Ryan C which probably need a tidy up so now just to wait for the weather to f**k off next week and off to the islands for

 Hi all,

New member so first of hello. I've been directed to this site many of times and always found the information great.

Anyone got any reviews or feedback on Spitfire Trailers? Got a price on a brandnew full aluminium trailer, with torsion springs, hydraulic brakes, LED lights, walk platform along with the boat fitted for $4550. I don't really know anything about them or if they've had a few recalls or bad batches etc, but the price is pretty hard to knock back.

I can buy a galvanised chinese seatrail trailer but I'm worried about the galvanising which I've heard there has been afew rusting out in under 2 years, but the sales rep did tell me it was an issue of a few years ago and that they have sorted that problem out with the manufactuer, the main problem was the steel not being cleaned properly. 

Any feedback on the spitfires would be much appreciated. 

Thanks 

Geoff 

 Hi wreckers 

I am getting to old to manually pull a anchor.

Thinking about a winch for the trusted Traily 5.4m.

Any recommendations would be  appreciated 

Cheers 

Neels 

Hi All

I have a 2004 Mariner 30 hp. Starts fine, cruises fine but if I have been cruising at speed for a while it stalls as I back the revs off.

Im thinking it could be crap in the tank?

Thoughts?

Thanks

Jamie

Evening all,

I recently bought a 02 Chivers Predator 650. Since owning it there has been a lingering and sometimes overpowering fuel smell.

The young fella was ill when he fell asleep in the cab a few weeks back and more recently a couple of friends have asked about the fuel smell. When you lift the covers in the cabin, one side of which houses the incoming fuel hose, the smell is incredible. Both sides however, not just the breater and fuel hose side. 

I took it to the mechanic today who tipped the boat up on the foklift and a very small amount of water and fuel came out the rear. There is also a very small residual amount of fuel in the cabin, which I only noticed later today. 

The fuel tank is a fully sealed fibreglass unit, in the hull with no inspection hatches to check the hoses/ connectors at either end. 

My question is really, how the hell does anyone find a potential leak without basically drilling holes throughout the floor until you see something amiss? I rang Chivers to see if they could help but all the boys working there have only got experience with the ali boats, I understand Luke Chivers has moved on now? 

Surely there are other options available short of paying thousands to rip out the fuel tank and replace it? The whole floor would need to come up to do it! 

Any help/ thoughts/ experiences would be gladly received. 

 hi anyone using 2 stroke sail outboards? any info available? thanks

Built right here here in Geraldton (again) by Xtreme Marine, biggest Cray boat in WA at 86’

19 tonnes of plate, 700kg of wire...

 Hey guys I am looking at putting a floor in the tinnie i just bought. how hard is this to do?

Any Advice would be appreciated

 anybody out there know of a good mobile outboard mechanic (nor) 

 Hi All

Im looking for recommendations for a pre-purchase inspection service for a trailer boat in Freo.

Who is the go-to person?

Thanks

 A question for you car mechanics please, who deal with this stuff regularly

Cleaning of petrol fuel injectors-what works and what doesnt?
Im not talking tipping 200mls of wonder juice into the tank, rather insitu such as Carbon Clean or removing for cleaning.
My Suzuki outboards have close on 1000hrs, and probably due for a look but not keen to replace them for $250 eash x 8 = $2K

Anecdotal but I reckon Im using more juice than before (or maybe carrying more shit!) at the islands and reckon Im about 200rpm down at full bore.

Otherwise they start, run, idle and load up perfectly.

I know there are plenty of reasons to lose a little top end including cable adjustment, filters, prop damage etc

But just after some specific injector advice
 

 Hey guys and gals, doesanyone know anything about boat collars? How much they cost, if anyone in bunbury supplies or fits them. If they are any good? 

Had a problem last Tuesday out at sea. Couldn't start my Suzuki DF250 motor.

Managed to start easily back home with a different battery connected directly to the motor, and then started easily on the existing battery/ies connected directly.

Pulled out the old cables and found severe corrosion on the lugs particularly on the earth cables so I have decided to replace all cables from the batteries

Question would you use 25mm2 (3 B&S) tinned cable or 2 B&S (32mm2) not tinned.

I believe both can handle the approx starting current of about 100 amps. I intend to solder the cable, crimp with an hydraulic crimper and then solder the open end of the lug to exclude moisture and will also seal over the sleeve of the lugs with glue lined heat shrink.

Also have a 180 watt solar panel which is currently connected in parallel on a 2nd battery switch. Can anyone advise if this is the correct way to connect a solar panel

Thanks in advance for any answers

Eric

Not sure if this has been covered before but the mrs and i are in the market for a boat, she has asked me to get some figures on cost of ownership (service, insurance, gear, misc) for each year. Im completely new to boat ownership so any help is much appreciated. Looking for an ali around 6m something the family is comfortable on. Spending around 35-40k. Just need to get a budget sorted before jumping into anything.

 Hi I need to put some rod holders in my fibreglass boat but only have 85mm of room on the gunnel and all the rod holders ive looked at have flanges that are bigger. There is a grab rail along the edge so I could use rail mounts butI dont really trust them. What do you guys use any suggestions would be apreciated. Has anyone used this slide in type of holder.