hi guys

ive got a 115 Johnson outboard that won’t start

I’ve tried to start it couple of days ago after 6 months of sitting there but won’t start.

ive charged the batteries and changed the sparks plug but won’t turn over.

all so won’t go into gear.

cheers 

 Hi All,

I have an old 1996 merc 40hp which hasnt been looked after.

The cowling is caked with years and years of burned on salt water stains.

I tried CLR, but I think that might only work on minor stains, does anyone have any tips on how to clean it off without damaging the plastic?

Thanks !

I'm about to embark on replacing my trailer brakes as they are sticking on after use, which is obviously not good. Everything looks pretty much past its use by date.

I have a Carlisle system with rubber hoses throughout and a duel axle trailer. The fittings are is bad shape, so thinking its a total replacement job.

I'm hoping someone who has done this can point me in the right direction.

In order to buy the right parts, I was thinking of removing all the brake lines and fittings back to the Carlisle unit, and one of the callipers. I'm assuming I go to a hose specialist (like Hose Mart) and order the replacement hoses and fittings to the correct length?

I was just going to go to Martins Trailer Parts for the callipers, shoes, and all the T pieces and other hardware I need.

Since my current hardware is really corroded, can you buy stainless fittings/callipers? Is it worth it?

I'll redo the bearings whilst I'm at it, but I've done that before so OK with that.

Any advice/tips from someone who has done this would be appreciated.

Cheers

Terry

Hi Fish Wrecked members,

Wondering if anyone is running a Lewmar Anchor Winch fitted by Saltwater marine at the time of boat purchase?

I have a 2006 Trailcraft 660 Trailblazer with the Lewmar unit fitted, although the spec plate on the unit is faded/rusted & unable to read the details / Winch Manual pages through the 10 years have stuck together & also unable to read,

Does anyone with the the same winch unit (2006 fitted) have details on the Chain Link size suitable for this unit?

I may also need to replace the gypsy on the unit, which i believe can be bought online, although want to make sure we purchase the right chain size so far,

my feeling is the unit will handle 6-8mm short link chain - can someone confirm?

cheers,

Jordan

 Hey guys

What do you all use to secure your rods into your rocket launches to stop them flying/bouncing by waves out while out on boat.

Thanks

 G’day everyone, 

So to follow up on a post I did a few weeks ago about my broken suzuki outboard, I’ve ordered a brand 70hp 4 stroke Yamaha to replace it. So soon I’ll be stuck with a broken suzuki that I need to get rid of. So just wondering if anyone knows a place or someone in Perth who might be interested in buying it. 

Its a 2007 70hp suzuki 4-stroke with 650hrs on it, it kicks over and runs still, but not very well. Mechanic told me it needs the head rebuilt or something, said about $4k to fix. 

The guy putting my new Yamaha on said that he would take the old suzuki off and keep it as payment for taking it off, so essentially $500 value, does that seem reasonable? 

Cheers Paul 

Hi all
Was previously using Photobucket, but not happy to pay them for storage of a few photos that I use to upload on here. What other options do I have, remembering Im no Tech-head.

Boat finally parked on its new home on the water and I don't want to pull her out to fill the tank. Is there other on-water refuelling options other than the Mandurah Marina and Bouvard Marina.

Not sure if there is a facility at Mandurah Quays.

PS was trying to upload the photo of her on the floating jetty, and discovered now you have to pay Photobucket - get stuffed!!!

 Hi guys

I'm looking for a fabricator to make up a custom folding wake tower that we can use to attach a bimini off, as the current set up is too short for me to stand at the wheel. Our thought is to make it so we can make the boat more versatile, and also use the wake tower for swag storage when going camping.

Any tips on previous good work/rates would definitely be appreciated. 

Cheers. 

Loaded the boat to go fishing yesterday, drive to ramp.  Launched.  Left jetty.  Turned helm to head away from jetty. And....

Pop!

Blew a hydraulic line off the back of the helm.

End of fishing day before we were out of the marina.

The hose has come out of the brass screw on fitting so i think it is just an easy fix.  Has been used many hours with no issue so i need to investigate why, perhaps some vibration has loosened it just enough to pop it.  Perhaps the locktite never binded properly.

My question is, to those who have installed fixed these things, is do i need a new brass ring thingie that goes on the hose (is it a crimp) that tightens up inside the nut?

 is anyone on here running one of these? What kind of rope and how much can you get on? And does anyone have any suggestions as to an alternative? I notice they are not freefall, but reel out at 42m pm, same as retrieve--seems a bit slow, as I am used to a freefall winch. 

As most of us know, slipper springs on tandem axle trailers are not load sharing. For those who like the single leaf parabolic springs this causes problems due to the spring capacity having to be effectively down-rated.

Well, I just saw that you can get a load sharing equalizer bar. Below is a picture of an offering from Trojan. Now I know most people will just say why not use eye to eye springs rather than slippers, but this just provides another option. I quite like the single leaf parabolic springs, and this set up will allow true load sharing with the simpicity of the parabolics.

Any of you engineering types have any feedback on this.

 Well, I went and did it. After much soul searching, discussions with the very important other half, seemingly endless net research, and a general evaluation of where I wanted my life to go for what years are left, the money has gone down. Did before Xmas, in fact, but I still had some details to sort re various aspects of the build. Now that it is more or less settled, I can go  public, as it where.

I can probably blame Darren253 for all this, because it was his build thread that really got me thinking. That, and the desire to cover more sea miles than I could reasonably ask the Dominator to do in comfort. So the idea took shape, my impending 65th birthday meant I could dip into a bit of super, and here we are. The boat and trailer is on order, the outboard has been paid for. I was lucky to snag a 150 4s Mercury on the last day of the special which finished in December, at a considerable saving over the RRP. Aftergoing for a run on Darren's, the performance is much more than adequate, I can't find a single person on the net with anything but praise, and the simple low-stressed big block design should keep long-term ownership costs down. The motor will be hung by Midwest Marine, Mercury agents in Geraldton, after I have finished  my instal work on everything else. The bluetooth module to enable you to record and monitor performance figures and codes on your phone was thrown in with the deal.

Currently awaiting a quote on a good electronics setup. I'm looking at Raymarine gear, consisting of a Axiom 9RVX Pro, and an Axiom 7 RV. Reason for the smaller one is that I can't quite get a 9RVX and a 9RV side by side on the dash. This will give me the ability to run a 1kw transducer with no extra modules, and the 7 will be dedicated as a chartplotter, with maybe a sidebar of engine info.

 Transducer looks like being a thru-hull B175M with tilted element, as the RV-100 already has high chirp, as well as the sidescan/downscan/3D functions with the stabilisation built in. These are a transom mount, and will likely be mounted on a sliding bracket to keep it out of the wway when required. I'm also going for an autopilot, probably the Raymarine EV-100.

An electric capstan will be mounted on a removable bracket, with a stainless tipper, and, as I ended up selling my Maxwell HRC-6FF with the old boat, I'll likely go for a Lonestar GX2, as the instal on the drums on these hulls is far easier than it would have been on my old boat.

This will all be powered by a dual battery setup, with VSR and parallelling switch. A good size House electrical feed of 13.2mm2 will run to a main panel to feed all the goodies without voltage drop. The two winches will be powered separately. 

As for the hull,I'm opting for the walkthrough transom, not cheap, but I've had enough of climbing over transoms. One boarding platform with underslung telescopic ladder will be fitted. The no-cost raised hardtop option is being taken up, and it will be fitted with two Bowmar hatches for ventilation. Under the passenger seat, there will be the standard storage box, but, on the helm side, I'm fitting a stainless seat support bracket  to fit an icebox under. My reasoning for fitting it under the helm seat is that when you are trolling for billfish with 3 on board, the two  observers will have a seat each. I'll make the box myself, fitted with a lid that can open without pulling the box out of position. The long 1440mm long underfloor space which can be opened up when you remove the little divider will do for day tripping, and the big madfish bag may become redundant. We'll see how it goes for holding ice.  A large L&R Boatlatch has been scored courtesy of the Fishwrecked economy. On the subject of trailers, I have opted for a larger one than normally supplied,C-channel, as the whole weight thing would be decidedly iffy for going away, IMO--going for a 2400kg Easytow, with breakaway brakes.

All the usual hull fruit will be added, such as washdown, live bait tank, and fresh water with its own pump. LED lighting for under gunwhales has been ordered, and overhead LED worklights and an LED spotlight are being decided on. Rod holders in trolling positions will be heavy duty, with a couple of slimlines added for storage and downrigger duties. I'm sticking with the standard non-skid deck for now--my reasoning is that I'll give it a go, as retrofitting a covering won't be any harder than doing it first up. I will fit a couple of bits of Z-tread or the like on the boarding platform and walkthrough if they look slippery. But certainly no carpet. Full bunk infills for those overnighters, but no built-in toilet. After a lot of thinking, I came to the conclusion that, while they may be a winner for day tripping, they would be bloody useless for overnighting--who wants to pull the bed up to get to the dunny in the middle of the night? Our current porta-potty will continue to do duty, and at least we have a door you can close.

4.5 m outriggers are planned, still deciding on the form they will take, but a kiwi-made set by Reel Rods, hardtop mounted , has taken my fancy. I'll just need to confirm the hardtop will be strong enough.

Bennet trim tabs are being fitted by Mansfields, as is the rocket launcher ,the walk-through transom, the boat latch, and the s/sbait board. All the rest will be my work. Our place will start looking like xmas at the post office over the next month as all the orders start arriving.

I intend to do it once, and do it right. 

 Hi Everyone,

Does anyone out there know the approx weight of a 6m fraser? looking to buy a car thats sutable for towing but also not too big for the misses to drive daily, the landcruisers too big for her so unfortunatley it has to go.

Yes it's up for sale if anyone is intrested

2005 petrol V8 GLX 112000k black

Thanks in advanced.

My boat is in dire need of a polish. What are others favourite and/or tried and tested products for polishing fibrelglass/gelcoat?? And if I'm feeling lazy is there any businesses out there who detail boats?
Cheers

Hey Guys

wondering how do you guys restrain your motor if travelling long trips?

we are driving to Kalbarri in a few weeks in inlaws have a 5.9 jackman with a 175 merc on it.

the quostion is do you use anything to stop it moving around from the road bumps and stuff?

Thanks In Advance 

 Hi guys

This may be old news to some but I just found out that RoadMaster Trailers in Bayswater has closed down. Geez...another local manufactuer done.

 One for the e tec gurus out there have a 2008 e tec and the icommand gauges both have gone blank with no data or readouts but they are still getting power as it lit up with the backlight .Having done a google search i have found they did have some problems with software updates that the dealer could do through computer although a lot of these appeared to be in america.Just wondering if any other owners have had same issues or some advice before i take to mechanic as there hourly rate to fault find can become expensive and the price of new gauges is fairly pricy as well TIA

Well after 10 good years and 650hrs of owning a 70hp suzuki 4 stroke outboard, I was given the bad news that no boat owner wants to hear, your motors stuffed!

It all started about 6 months ago when I noticed the outboard was idling a little rough every now and then, didn’t think too much of it, hadn’t used it enough before then so maybe some stale fuel. But then it wouldn’t start, I needed to give it a fair bit of throttle to kick over and then warm up so that it didn’t stall, but when it was cruising it was fine and didn’t miss a beat. Thought I better get it looked at before the cray season kicked off. Drop it in to the mechanic and get him to look it over, that day get the call from the mechanic that it’s bad news and that the bottom cylinder has lost most of its compression. It’s a 4-5hr job to pull the motor down to tell me the extent of the damage and quote me on a price to fix it. He didn’t wanna say too much to me in terms of what the damage could be and what the cost to fix might be, which is fair enough because he hasn’t seen inside the engine yet so it’s hard to say, I asked for a worse case scenario tho and he reluctantly said it could possibly be up to $4000 to fix (rebuild) so he suggested I wait until I’ve got the money to fix the motor before he pulls it apart and has a better look at it, no point spending $1000 to open it up and then put it back together again if I’m not gonna fix it there and then.

So after doing some reading on the internet I’ve discovered that I’m not alone, it’s happened to quite a few suzuki outboards in the same era as mine (2002-2007). From what I’ve read there is a corrosion issue in the exhaust system which when it corrodes a hole in the wall of the exhaust it allows salt water to get back into the bottom cylinder, which is obviously a major problem. There’s heaps of posts on various forums around the world with people having he same issue, some with only 300hrs on the motor. Some are saying it’s excessive corrosion due to dissimilar metals being used in the exhaust system somewhere, I’m not mechanically minded at all so I’m just repeating what I’ve read. I brought this boat and motor combo brand new 10 years ago with the plan of keeping it for a long time, so I looked after it as well as I could, had it serviced every year, always flushed it with fresh water after use (excluding a few north trips where that isn’t an option, maybe that was my undoing?! But once I was back from those trips it got lots of TLC to make up for it) so I was pretty disappointed to hear what’s happened to my engine. I guess the question now tho, is do I get it rebuilt for possibly $4000, but not be sure if the problem is going to occur again or not, or lash out and buy a new one for $13000. Big price difference there. At the moment I’m just saving some coin and thinking of rebuilding it and then selling it, I’ve already got the bad taste in my mouth now which will be hard to get out. There’s a link below to someone who has had the same issue as me for anyone who wants to look into it more. Or just google “suzuki internal exhaust passage corrosion”. http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=24647&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Hey folks, I'm looking at an M260 transducer for my 625 Cruise Craft.  The boat has a liner, just wandering if anyone here has fitted one of these transducers, specifically any pics of where you cut away the liner.  

 Hi guys

Just about to start an anchor winch install on my plate ali and curious as to whether I will need to reinforce the bulkhead where the winch will bolt up to.

If I do need to get a plate welded in , who can you suggest North of the river.

Oh yeah its a LoneStar winch, sold me when I saw the winch comparison on Youtube , would suggest anybody look at that before deciding on a brand to buy.

Cheers Katman

 Hi All, what would be the best method to take a painted Ali boat back to bare Ali and to leave it unpainted and would you have to finish it off some way so it looks ok. Cheers 

 hi, 

ive now got a couple of rod holders that look like the attached. While it's pretty cheap and easy to replace them , I'd rather get stronger ones.

my options are buy something to replace them, or get these welded up properly. I'm not sure how a full weld on 2mm ish SS would go and whether it's worth the hassle. From the factory, these just have 4-5 spot welds on them that fail.

what have others done? 

Can anyone recommend some rod holders built to last?

thanks

blair

 Just purchased a couple of replacement interceptor units and cable/grommet assemblies from a retailer in Perth.

I was advised by the retailer to ensure the grommet hole on the mounting face is bevelled out at 45 degrees or else it can affect the installation of the interceptor units, and went on to say this was actually written in the installation manual but overlooked by so many, and was a common cause for interceptor failure.

I have looked in the manual and i can't find any statement which suggests the grommet hole must be bevelled.

I removed the existing units from my boat last night and the grommet holes are not bevelled.  Prior to removing the units there was nothing to suggest incorrect installation (i.e. interceptor unit bowing).

Could anyone here that has a fair amount of familiarity with the installation of this system please provide their thoughts/experience?

TIA.

Tom

 Hi all just wondering what experiences people have had installing anodes on there Ali boats.

Has anyone seen any differences or negative action by having one and on a boat that is not in the water all the time.

Thanks in advance Frank

Hi Guys, (Merry Christmas)

Been a few older threads re this but couldn't find the answer I'm look'n for.

Having trouble working out the Pro's & Con's etc of Front/Side vs Bullhorn. Can't find any youtube video's showing/explaining onboard differences etc.

From other threads it appears HyDrive is "still" the way to go? http://www.hydrive.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/OUTBOARD-SELECTION-BOOKLET-2016.pdf

My Ali 4.5mtr runabout has a flat transom both sides, no pod or anything in the way either side etc, so guess I could go either way?

So far I've sussed out (I think) with the Front/Side mount, the cables are fixed in place, don't move side to side, however from the pics it looks like the rod slides in-out of the existing OB tube, that we all know requires PITA maintenance. I guess the other con with the side mount is some knob using it as handle to pull themselves back in the tub, leaning on it while pulling something/one out of the water etc?

Where with the Bullhorn, cables are moving side to side with ram (apparently can be an issue) but OB tube (thread ends) is only a fixing point for the ram to hang off, ram sits in-front of OB so perhaps less likely to get used as a railing handle?

So those with experience, what are your thoughts/recommendations?

Also,

1. Whitworths has them for just under 1k, any better out there? https://www.whitworths.com.au/catalogsearch/result/index/?q=Hydrive&order=price&dir=asc

2. Whats a decent wheel that won't get to hot to handle after sitting in the sun for awhile, that won't perish quickly?

Cheers!

 Good morning all

ive had this fuel tank since I bought my boat but have not used it, it's 67 litres so I am going to put it in, but just want to ask is this piece of connection a breather hole or do I have to connect something to it cheers dakka

 G'day

Comming home yesterday from the boat ramp,doing about 60km and my trailer brakes completly locked up leaving a decent black mark up the road and nearly 2 motors on the bonnet of a car behind me.Maybe 10 frantic minutes blocking the road they released by them self.Any ideas or help would be appreciated as i don't want this to happen again.

Cheers

 Wanted to buy a 99 merc 60 hp starter motor anyone wrecking an engine bloody Christmas time making it impossible 

I have a 150 HP Mercury Optimax, 2 stroke engine. I had to drop the lower end down the other day and in doing so pulled the speedo tube down a couple of inches too many before I realized. Now that the lower end is back on the tube bellies out in a large loop. I want to pull it back up but can't see where it connects to or where it comes out of the tube under the engine, too much in the way to see.

Has anyone had the same problem and managed to rectify it with out too much drama?

Any information on this would be like a chrissy prezzie to me especially if its accompanied by photos as I am not that mechanically minded. Thanks and cheers in advance.

Here is some simple tips that may help get you out of trouble at sea if you have mechanical issues.

Theres alot of variables as to EFI, carby etc but your EFI will likely flash a code of 2 digits, google what it means

First rule-check the simple cheap and obvious stuff first!

IT WONT START or crank at all

• Check kill lanyard, jiggle it and refit
• Jiggle gear lever for "start in gear lockout"
• Check battery, swap to other battery, check electronics for power/voltage
• Get the pull start lanyard out 

It wont start but cranks normally

• Check fuel bulb, if sucked flat filter or supply blocked, if flacid  out of fuel (check sight glass?)
• Pump up bulb until firm
• Carby outboard-may be flooded, full throttle out of gear and crank for 20 seconds til it fires (maybe take cover off outboard)
• Take a spark plug lead out and get your simple mate to hold onto it while you crank (maybe not but stick a spare plug into it and watch for spark)
• Chuck in your spare spark plugs as a last resort (tilt outboard up for this)

If it loses power then dies

• Smell the outboard-fuel, hot, burnt wiring?
• A carby will rarely just go full tit to stop instantly from a fuel issue, it will lose power and die as the bowl empties
• grab the fuel bulb, if its sucked flat you have a blockage or filter blockage
• If its flacid you are either out of fuel or have a hole in your fuel line between tank/bulb
• Check site glass for water/dirt
• Swap to other batteries
• If its hot, check for a bag or weed on leg, let it cool down. Watch telltail, impellor may be cooked.

If it just stops dead with no alarms

• Kill switch?
• Check if other equip is working, check voltages and when you crank (if it has 13 volts but drops way down when trying to crank battery may be dying)
• Earth or power wire (some like Suzi have a seperate white? wire straight to supply for ECU)
• Some other electrical prob

If your outboard overheats and impellor is shot

• If you have a deckwash and your muffs, put muffs on and ducktape, connect up deckwash and idle in (with care of course)
• Connect deckwash to flushing port instead (Im not 100% that all outboards get full cooling from this so "caveat emptor")

If your hydraulic steering is knackered

• Try and block reduce the leak if on a hose
•  at a pinch you can put anything in it, cooking oil, engine oil, even water.
• lash the outboard central and make a rope bridle from each aft mooring bits and drag something in the water to steer. There are many variations of this but I have seen crayboats drag a craypot for this.

If your leg drops its oil but you have to drive it

• Fill it with grease and go easy

Most electronics have a battery power feature so you can see what your battery charge state is, check the menu/manual

TOOLS AND SPARES-minimum

• Plug spanner
• Pliers, small shifters
• Philips and flat screwdriver
• Duct tape
• Cable ties (good ones)
• Spare plugs and fuel filter
• Torch
• Fuses as required (tin foil twisted up can substitute also)
• Random pieces of electrical wire

This is just some ideas, and I may have overlooked some stuff so feel free to comment constructively (or PM and I'll add to keep it all in one place)