Hey All

just wondering what all you guys use for lighting on your boat for night fishing.

we haev to square led worklights for the deck but wanted to know what you guys have for the front?

Thanks in advance  

I recently purchased a 67L plastic tank to use as an under-floor fuel storage (see photo), the problem is when the boat is on the trailer it sits at an angle which seems to reduce the capacity of the tank when filling to about 50L. To try and fix this I want to spin the tank around and have the filling point at its highest but in order to make sure I can use all the fuel I need to have the internal tank pick up hose to draw from the lowest point in the tank. To achieve this I need to make the internal tank pickup hosing longer. When looking at the hose I noticed it seemed to be just black pvc ribbed 10mm hosing. My question is, Is this hosing ok for this purpose? and if so where can I get some more of it? The tank is easily accessible and the hosing can be monitored over time if required.

 Hey all

I need to replace a 800mm section of my trailer does anyone have a piece I can buy or know where i can get a piece of galvanized   tubing 76x48 by a metre long cheers 

 Can anyone recommend a signs place NOR that does good boat names and wraps, with some creative ability. I don't want something quite off the shelf.

Hi guys just purchased our first boat 5m fibreglass. Considering getting a Minn kota or Jarvis walker spotlock/virtual anchor. Is anyone using one of these ? Chasing some advice before investing. Cheers in advance.

 hello

iv just bought a penguin phantom with a centre console conversion

it has a 90hp yammy 2stroke

porblem is that i am not getting maximum operating revs out of it. it slowley gets to 25kn and peaks out at 4100rpm

the prop it has is a 13 1/4 - 17 stainless prop (im pretty sure that is just the factory recommended prop)

should get to 5.5k based on the yamaha web page

before i go spending money on props is there anything i should be checking first? motor sounds great and is not missing so isnt fuel related i think

i would also like to know if anyone who has had a penguin phantom how it went, top speed etc

cheers

travis

Hi All - been a while since I've posted. I'm trying to help a mate who has a Warrior 620SF.. "Shamwari" is her name.

He's having a heap of issues getting a quality read with his sounder - 10 inch Furuno.. and just can't seem to get it sorted.. to the extent of having the Furuno Tech's involved and taking the boat for a run with them in it. The outcome wasn't what he wanted to hear as the tech's feel there is a constant flow of airated water that is effecting the Furuno's performance (295) with the read from the transducer.

He has the transom mount tranny 525 ST 600w AND has also purchased  the p61 thru hull tranny as well to try and get this sorted. He's asked me to post on Fishwrecked in the hope of resolving the matter as he's just about exhausted options at this stage.

He's owned the boat for a good coupla years now with no intention of selling as he's just had fitted a new Yammie 200 4 stroke in the last year.  Just wondering if anyone else has suffered similar issues and what you have done to resolve it. If you can help him out he/ we would really appreciate it.

Thanks Fishwreckers

 Hello.

I'm chasing the depth and width of the seal "channel" on rectangular aluminium scuppers, and am hoping someone on the forum can help.  I need to buy replacement seals but forgot to take measurements on my boat before leaving for Perth.

I'm looking to buy replacement rubber seals from Clark Rubber.  I know "service" kits are available, but i don't see the foam seals doing a proper job of keeping the water out for very long.

Cheers.

Tom

 Hi all

Just purchased live bait pump to install in my haines.  I already have 2 bungs the upper I will use for the inlet with a strainer my question is the original hole is 22mm I need to ream it out to 26mm.  Do I have to coat the inside of the hole with a sealer.  I'm using sikaflex around each flange nut but do I seal between the nuts with something to prevent rot.

 Hey guys I am looking at buying my first boat and am after some advice. My price range is around the 6-7k mark am hoping for something I can fish offshore with and do the odd rotto trip with. Is there anything in particluar I should be looking at ? Also how many hours is a lot for an outoard? I’m currently looking at a 19ft guardian with a 140hp 2001 Mercury outboard. Any advice would be great 

cheers 

Tim

So i have a deep cycle battery powering my house electrics and a cranking battery to start the motor.  I can charge either depending on the setting of the colhersy switch.

Both batterys are house in the rear storage area at the back of the cockpit.

All the house electrics, excluding the pumps, are located on or near the dash.  They include nav lights, three radios (am/fm, 27mg, vhf), 12v accessory plug and sounder / plotter combo.

I think i need a heavier cable running from my house battery forward to the buzz boards under the dash.  I have the voltage displayed on the sounder plotter and it drops quite drasticly when i transmit on vhf if i am not running the charge from the motor through the house batteey at the time.

Will heavier cables between the battery and the dash reduce the voltage drop?  The distance is about 3.5 m i suppose.

Hello all,

New to boating, and wanted to ask this question about going to and from Rotto from Hillarys Marina.

From what I have seen people tend to come out of hillarys and head south along the coast to the Trigg / Scarborough sentinal and then head out , rather than just heading straight across from Hillarys.

This also seems the same coming back home. Is there a particular reason for this?

I'm using a 5.5 Savage.

Cheers!

 Hi Guys been a while since I posted but just wanted to get some ideas. I’m looking at making this a full hardtop with sliding windows in the 2 sides. At the moment it full hardtop until the angled piece which is vinyl. So I’m thinking of bringing the windscreen up on a higher angle and bringing the sheet out to meet it with 50-100 mm overhang all the way around. Does anyone have any better ideas or maybe pictures of hardtop builds.

thanks.

 might interest some people on here, came across it on youtube. goes to pt 8 wich was posted 5 days ago by the looks of it.

i like watching this wa classic being built

it raises questions for me, are they still getting built new? does anyone know this bloke?

www.youtube.com/watch

  So the Father in law has finished his boat refeurb after a few months of getting it, he bought a second hand Marriner 175 2 stroke but is unhappy with it.

so he is looking at getting a brand spanking evinrude e-tec g2 150 or 225.

anyone got any info on what they are like or used them before

Thanks In Advance

 Looking for some advice I currently use Mercury premium plus synthetic blend on my 91 marriner outboard, I wanted to try this xd100 everyone keeps telling me about. Am I ok just to wait to my tank gets low and top it up with the xd100? Is it ok to use on my outboard? Cheers. 

 Hi guys

About to start a Lone Star winch install and wanting to see your installs

My anchor well is deep and wide and I have options of where I can install , thinking of having it low enough so that the drum sits below the upper edge of front deck , any suggestions why this is not a good idea

Also curious as to whether there is a better way of running cables through the panel other than just simple rubber grommets

**** Its in ****

Well most of it , the winch and switch panel are done , now just got to mount the solenoid and run the cables , bought the Lonestar wiring kit so basically just run cables and connect to the terminals

That is the GX2 model there , reckon I have room to mount a spare

Cheers Katman

Can anyone in Perth, Karratha or Geraldton recommend a good marine mechanic with experience servicing Volvo penta 8.1 gi-ff engine and DP-E outdrives. Looking for annual service to be done and want it to be looked at by an experienced mechanic who has worked with these before. Thanks in advance.

hi guys

ive got a 115 Johnson outboard that won’t start

I’ve tried to start it couple of days ago after 6 months of sitting there but won’t start.

ive charged the batteries and changed the sparks plug but won’t turn over.

all so won’t go into gear.

cheers 

 Hi All,

I have an old 1996 merc 40hp which hasnt been looked after.

The cowling is caked with years and years of burned on salt water stains.

I tried CLR, but I think that might only work on minor stains, does anyone have any tips on how to clean it off without damaging the plastic?

Thanks !

I'm about to embark on replacing my trailer brakes as they are sticking on after use, which is obviously not good. Everything looks pretty much past its use by date.

I have a Carlisle system with rubber hoses throughout and a duel axle trailer. The fittings are is bad shape, so thinking its a total replacement job.

I'm hoping someone who has done this can point me in the right direction.

In order to buy the right parts, I was thinking of removing all the brake lines and fittings back to the Carlisle unit, and one of the callipers. I'm assuming I go to a hose specialist (like Hose Mart) and order the replacement hoses and fittings to the correct length?

I was just going to go to Martins Trailer Parts for the callipers, shoes, and all the T pieces and other hardware I need.

Since my current hardware is really corroded, can you buy stainless fittings/callipers? Is it worth it?

I'll redo the bearings whilst I'm at it, but I've done that before so OK with that.

Any advice/tips from someone who has done this would be appreciated.

Cheers

Terry

Hi Fish Wrecked members,

Wondering if anyone is running a Lewmar Anchor Winch fitted by Saltwater marine at the time of boat purchase?

I have a 2006 Trailcraft 660 Trailblazer with the Lewmar unit fitted, although the spec plate on the unit is faded/rusted & unable to read the details / Winch Manual pages through the 10 years have stuck together & also unable to read,

Does anyone with the the same winch unit (2006 fitted) have details on the Chain Link size suitable for this unit?

I may also need to replace the gypsy on the unit, which i believe can be bought online, although want to make sure we purchase the right chain size so far,

my feeling is the unit will handle 6-8mm short link chain - can someone confirm?

cheers,

Jordan

 Hey guys

What do you all use to secure your rods into your rocket launches to stop them flying/bouncing by waves out while out on boat.

Thanks

 G’day everyone, 

So to follow up on a post I did a few weeks ago about my broken suzuki outboard, I’ve ordered a brand 70hp 4 stroke Yamaha to replace it. So soon I’ll be stuck with a broken suzuki that I need to get rid of. So just wondering if anyone knows a place or someone in Perth who might be interested in buying it. 

Its a 2007 70hp suzuki 4-stroke with 650hrs on it, it kicks over and runs still, but not very well. Mechanic told me it needs the head rebuilt or something, said about $4k to fix. 

The guy putting my new Yamaha on said that he would take the old suzuki off and keep it as payment for taking it off, so essentially $500 value, does that seem reasonable? 

Cheers Paul 

Hi all
Was previously using Photobucket, but not happy to pay them for storage of a few photos that I use to upload on here. What other options do I have, remembering Im no Tech-head.

Boat finally parked on its new home on the water and I don't want to pull her out to fill the tank. Is there other on-water refuelling options other than the Mandurah Marina and Bouvard Marina.

Not sure if there is a facility at Mandurah Quays.

PS was trying to upload the photo of her on the floating jetty, and discovered now you have to pay Photobucket - get stuffed!!!

 Hi guys

I'm looking for a fabricator to make up a custom folding wake tower that we can use to attach a bimini off, as the current set up is too short for me to stand at the wheel. Our thought is to make it so we can make the boat more versatile, and also use the wake tower for swag storage when going camping.

Any tips on previous good work/rates would definitely be appreciated. 

Cheers. 

Loaded the boat to go fishing yesterday, drive to ramp.  Launched.  Left jetty.  Turned helm to head away from jetty. And....

Pop!

Blew a hydraulic line off the back of the helm.

End of fishing day before we were out of the marina.

The hose has come out of the brass screw on fitting so i think it is just an easy fix.  Has been used many hours with no issue so i need to investigate why, perhaps some vibration has loosened it just enough to pop it.  Perhaps the locktite never binded properly.

My question is, to those who have installed fixed these things, is do i need a new brass ring thingie that goes on the hose (is it a crimp) that tightens up inside the nut?

 is anyone on here running one of these? What kind of rope and how much can you get on? And does anyone have any suggestions as to an alternative? I notice they are not freefall, but reel out at 42m pm, same as retrieve--seems a bit slow, as I am used to a freefall winch. 

As most of us know, slipper springs on tandem axle trailers are not load sharing. For those who like the single leaf parabolic springs this causes problems due to the spring capacity having to be effectively down-rated.

Well, I just saw that you can get a load sharing equalizer bar. Below is a picture of an offering from Trojan. Now I know most people will just say why not use eye to eye springs rather than slippers, but this just provides another option. I quite like the single leaf parabolic springs, and this set up will allow true load sharing with the simpicity of the parabolics.

Any of you engineering types have any feedback on this.

 Well, I went and did it. After much soul searching, discussions with the very important other half, seemingly endless net research, and a general evaluation of where I wanted my life to go for what years are left, the money has gone down. Did before Xmas, in fact, but I still had some details to sort re various aspects of the build. Now that it is more or less settled, I can go  public, as it where.

I can probably blame Darren253 for all this, because it was his build thread that really got me thinking. That, and the desire to cover more sea miles than I could reasonably ask the Dominator to do in comfort. So the idea took shape, my impending 65th birthday meant I could dip into a bit of super, and here we are. The boat and trailer is on order, the outboard has been paid for. I was lucky to snag a 150 4s Mercury on the last day of the special which finished in December, at a considerable saving over the RRP. Aftergoing for a run on Darren's, the performance is much more than adequate, I can't find a single person on the net with anything but praise, and the simple low-stressed big block design should keep long-term ownership costs down. The motor will be hung by Midwest Marine, Mercury agents in Geraldton, after I have finished  my instal work on everything else. The bluetooth module to enable you to record and monitor performance figures and codes on your phone was thrown in with the deal.

Currently awaiting a quote on a good electronics setup. I'm looking at Raymarine gear, consisting of a Axiom 9RVX Pro, and an Axiom 7 RV. Reason for the smaller one is that I can't quite get a 9RVX and a 9RV side by side on the dash. This will give me the ability to run a 1kw transducer with no extra modules, and the 7 will be dedicated as a chartplotter, with maybe a sidebar of engine info.

 Transducer looks like being a thru-hull B175M with tilted element, as the RV-100 already has high chirp, as well as the sidescan/downscan/3D functions with the stabilisation built in. These are a transom mount, and will likely be mounted on a sliding bracket to keep it out of the wway when required. I'm also going for an autopilot, probably the Raymarine EV-100.

An electric capstan will be mounted on a removable bracket, with a stainless tipper, and, as I ended up selling my Maxwell HRC-6FF with the old boat, I'll likely go for a Lonestar GX2, as the instal on the drums on these hulls is far easier than it would have been on my old boat.

This will all be powered by a dual battery setup, with VSR and parallelling switch. A good size House electrical feed of 13.2mm2 will run to a main panel to feed all the goodies without voltage drop. The two winches will be powered separately. 

As for the hull,I'm opting for the walkthrough transom, not cheap, but I've had enough of climbing over transoms. One boarding platform with underslung telescopic ladder will be fitted. The no-cost raised hardtop option is being taken up, and it will be fitted with two Bowmar hatches for ventilation. Under the passenger seat, there will be the standard storage box, but, on the helm side, I'm fitting a stainless seat support bracket  to fit an icebox under. My reasoning for fitting it under the helm seat is that when you are trolling for billfish with 3 on board, the two  observers will have a seat each. I'll make the box myself, fitted with a lid that can open without pulling the box out of position. The long 1440mm long underfloor space which can be opened up when you remove the little divider will do for day tripping, and the big madfish bag may become redundant. We'll see how it goes for holding ice.  A large L&R Boatlatch has been scored courtesy of the Fishwrecked economy. On the subject of trailers, I have opted for a larger one than normally supplied,C-channel, as the whole weight thing would be decidedly iffy for going away, IMO--going for a 2400kg Easytow, with breakaway brakes.

All the usual hull fruit will be added, such as washdown, live bait tank, and fresh water with its own pump. LED lighting for under gunwhales has been ordered, and overhead LED worklights and an LED spotlight are being decided on. Rod holders in trolling positions will be heavy duty, with a couple of slimlines added for storage and downrigger duties. I'm sticking with the standard non-skid deck for now--my reasoning is that I'll give it a go, as retrofitting a covering won't be any harder than doing it first up. I will fit a couple of bits of Z-tread or the like on the boarding platform and walkthrough if they look slippery. But certainly no carpet. Full bunk infills for those overnighters, but no built-in toilet. After a lot of thinking, I came to the conclusion that, while they may be a winner for day tripping, they would be bloody useless for overnighting--who wants to pull the bed up to get to the dunny in the middle of the night? Our current porta-potty will continue to do duty, and at least we have a door you can close.

4.5 m outriggers are planned, still deciding on the form they will take, but a kiwi-made set by Reel Rods, hardtop mounted , has taken my fancy. I'll just need to confirm the hardtop will be strong enough.

Bennet trim tabs are being fitted by Mansfields, as is the rocket launcher ,the walk-through transom, the boat latch, and the s/sbait board. All the rest will be my work. Our place will start looking like xmas at the post office over the next month as all the orders start arriving.

I intend to do it once, and do it right.