Hi all.

Been rewiring parts of my boat and came across this component which was connected in-line with the ignition power supply from the outboard's wiring harness (2009 Suzuki DF250).   This supply had the NMEA2000 network backbone, trim tabs control unit, and a compass lbacklight connected to it.

It was in a sealed plastic sachet.  A few checks with the multimeter shows it's not a diode and has a DC resistance of ~15 Ohm.  Given I still had no idea what it was, I then decided to cut open the sachet and was greeted with this component which looks like a resistor.  A Google search on the printed number on the component has come up with donuts.  But that 15 in the part number probably means 15 Ohms.

Everything appeared to be working fine on this power circuit before I went for a re-wire.  The resistance seems too high to be an in-line ferrite bead, but what has me stumped is how this resistance hasn't caused a significant volt drop given NMEA2000 backbones are generally rated up to 3 Amps.  Even 0.5A load would see a 6V volt-drop.

I'm an EE and I'm stumped.... Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

Tom.

 https://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/power-boats/swiftcraft/227464

Would love a new Sportsman 21

Hi all,

Over the christmas break I managed to hit a submerged rock with my propeller which has caused a small dent in the blade.

The motor is a 1996 175 hp Mercury Offshore and is counter rotating (the boat has one engine, I anticipate the previous owner purchased a used counter rotating motor from someones twin rig).

I can't detect any change in the performace of the boat or vibration of the motor since i have damagd he prop.

The code written on the prop is: 48 16545 A40 21P. I have been able to find a used on online for about $100 but I want to make sure it is counter rotating prior to ordering - is there something in the code which reffers to counter rotating?

Given that i am unable to detect any change in the performace of the boat or vibration of the motor since i have damagd he prop is it nessecary to replace the prop/would it be a good idea to file down the dent to reduce its profile?

attached is a photo of the prop code.

Hey all,

Looking for a bit of advice.

I have a Southwind 655 which had a hydrofoil on the outboard when I bought it.  The reading I did sugests the hulls were prone to porpoising and hence a lot of people put hydrofoils on.  Anyway 6 years later and I just left it there as the boat's always handled well.

I noticed about a year ago that the cavitation plate had cracked right through, and basically broken off.  It was only held on by the hydrofoil bolt.  I had it welded up and it broke again within a few weeks.  I assume that the hydrfoil is probably putting a far amount of flex on the plate and the weld wasnt strong enough.   The attached picture shows what I mean (an example, not mine).

When climbing back in the boat after a dive on the weekend a boat went past smashing me with wake (good to see everyone keeping a distance with a dive flag up), and I grabed the hydrofoil to stop breaking my face on the boat and it broke off in my hand (had gone a bit brittle).

SO... Has anyone successfully had a cav plate  welded up before?  If I get it welded again, and scrap the hydrofoil, will it hold up?  The boat seemed to handle ok with half of a hydrofoil so Im willing to give it a crack without one at all.

Or should I replace the hydrofoil along with the chunk of my cav plate?

Or... someone's no doubt going to tell me to replace the lower leg.  :P

Cheers,

Lavs

 Hi guys, 

Picked up a great condition 560 charger a month ago and have just started to put it all back togethor now after gutting all the old gear out. I am a little hesitant to make a call on the new outboard size at the moment with recommendations either side of the fence. 

I am looking at the three motors below but am a little unsure if the transom can safely take the extra weight of a 150. Have spoked to one of the members on here who has the df140 and was quite happy on the back of the same boat, but also have been out on the same boat with a F175 which handled really well off and had an unreal top speed and good economy for getting out wide! 

I do a lot of trips to shark bay and exmouth and do some long trips to get too the areas i like to fish, likely to do runs out too the trench for marlin/YF when the water warms up as well. 

Suzuki DF140 approx 50kg lighter and significantly cheaper 

or 

Suzuki DF150 / Yamah F150 much better torque and better cruising speed. 

Any advice or experience going through the same decision process would be much appreciated! 

Hi fellow fishoes.  I am looking at some advice please on mooring a boat. I am looking at mooring my 18 ft runabout in geographe bay for 3 months. I will be using the boat some weekends and was wondering how the motor copes with not being flushed after every use? Is mooring adviseable? Any advice would be greatful.. cheers Don 

Was chasing some info about the CruiseCraft Outsider 625, more specifically a 2001 model. Most of us know the good reputation that CruiseCraft has, however with the 2001 model, was there anything in particular that was a problem? Or any general info or opinions about the 625 would be appreciated.

Cheers

Woodsy

 Does anyone know what the older Savage fibreglass hulls were like such as the 18 ft Commanders and Escorts...were they any good?

 i am chasing a powerhead for my vintage johnson motor 1975 25hp can anybody help me maybe somebody may have an old johnson sitting in shed gathering cobwebs 

 Hi all,

I'm in the proccess of purchasing a Haines Hunter 650 classic and i have an issue with the kill tank set up. It doesn't have a bung to release water, so you either sponge it out or pump it out, I suppose with a bildge pump. What do people do with the same kill tank set up as this as I've seen it on quite a few boats while searching?

I use to have a boat with a flooding kill tank. It was so easy to clean when there was blood in it and it was easy to drain. 

My solution is I could cut a hole into the back wall of the kill tank and put a bung in it (but all the blood and crap will end up in the bildge) and then pump it out which really dosn't turn me on. This is about the only gripe I have concerning this boat,, but tts not a deal beaker for me.

Are there any owners of the Haines Hunter 650 classic who have a flooding kill tank, and if so, I'd and would like to know how they have achieved it? Other questions....how does the boat go? and if anybody has been on one are they as good as the reviews say they are? The boat I'm getting is going to be used mostly as a fishing rig with the odd stay at Rotto or wherever.

 G'day all.

We had a little bit of an issue with our hydraulic steering the other day, however we had a spare fitting on board and limped home. (Had to use two stroke oil). It got me wondering about what extras you should have on board (apart from safety gear of course). 

There's obviously a limit to what you can carry to cover all eventualities. Your mechanical knowledge, the possibility of an "at sea" repair and so on will also restrict what you can do.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             My question is - What do you carry every trip in the way of both spares and tools?

In addition, what's the most complicated "get home" fix you've ever pulled off, either at sea or remote area when you make it to land somewhere?

 G,day all. Does anyone know what the specs are on the oil in helm pump hydraulic steering systems?

We had an olive on our helm pump let go yesterday but were able to limp home using 2 stroke oil. We flushed the system using in Hi-Drive oil at home (I was concerned some of the additives in two stroke oil may damage seals in the unit) but didn't have enough to fill and bleed the system.

 I can't imagine the manufacturer of the unit would actually produce their own oil and last time I looked it was well over 20 bucks a bottle. It's not so much the cost, but I like the idea of being able to try Pirtek, Enzed or similar if I got stuck.

Opinions about the use of auto trans fluid are varied enough to worry me so I won't use that, and from what I can see in the manuals of some of our machines at work synthetic fluids are not always advised. Any specialist advice would be much appreciated.                                  Thanks,    John 

Hi All . Hope someone can help me . I have just purchased the boat. The wiring on the barron is mess under the dash . I have hooked up a new lowrance . Radios and all worked fine then .
Checked port and starboard lights zilch. Wired them up to a toggle switch . Turned on power and now I have nothing . The instuments on the dash still work . Radios , lowrance & lights etc now wont work .

I am not electrical minded but think there is either a short or the original wires are done wrong . Need this sorted out before the 8th jan as need a report done for insurance for club marine .

Could any one help please I live in High Wycombe .

Cheers

 Anyone Know a good place thats fair on price to purchase a steering cable. In rockingham would be ideal but willing to travel.

 Howdy all

i have a 1990 v4 2stroke evinrude motor on my western craft I seem to be using more fuel lately, I used to get about 3 trips out to check the craypots out now I am only getting about 2 trips before I have to fill up again, I had a service done in October, is there anything I can do to get better fuel economy or is just tuff titties it's an old heavy two banger cheers and merry Christmas to all

 After some information of anyone who was done a through hull transducer on a 670 commodore. 

I just picked up a 2007 commodore attitude 7000 and it has a m260 linked to a furuno 585. Works fine although have fitted my simrad evo3 and was looking at putting a SS175M in to cover all bases. 

Any help or ideas appreciated.

Cheers

 Good Evening Ladies and Gentlemen

I own a 4.75m trailcraft fitted with a 60 Mercury 4 strokeabout 2006 vintage.

Bought it approx May 2018. Long story, please rerad to the end

Had a major service 2 months ago, in Rockingham, they also recommended that the fuel system be replaced as the fuel lines were delaminating, I agreed, in the interests of safety and reliability.

Took the boat out for a dive 2 weeks ago, it would start, but not run. It appeared to starving of fuel. I used the fuel primer, which was soft to squeeze, couldn't get it hard (no jokes please). Tried 25-30 times, motor would not idle or rev.

Had to flag a passing boat for a tow. Gave them a carton of beer.

Straight back to the service yard, late friday, but they had a look, reckon the fuel priming bulb was cactus, didn't charge labour, but charged me for parts. I was happy, fault found, confidence restored.

Until today, first time out since fixed, motor runs well, do a dive, then motor will start but not idle or rev. BUGGER, tried priming all sorts of things, flag down a boat, then I get it to run and return to Point Peron no issue.

Boat yard closed for Christmas, Bugger!
I suspect vapour lock. 
Is this correct?
How do I prevent it or overcome it?
Thanks

Willy

Jarrahland

 I've just had a problem on my last trip. I've got a Suzuki df140 2010 that runs perfectly, but when I reverse the engine warning light comes on and it beeps every few seconds

When I start going forward it goes away again. It only does it in the water though I can't get it to do it on the trailer. Anyone had this before?

Update: Have finally managed to get it back out on the water, and as well as beeping in reverse, it now beeps when idling in neutral as well. I've had the mechanic plug into it, and no error codes are coming up. Again, it only does it in the water and not when flushing with a hose. Any ideas gents? Mechanic will have to come out on the boat otherwise, hoping for any ideas before that

I've been getting fuel in the bilge when I overfill the tank and have avoided it by filling up to 85l instead of the full 90 until I get around to properly sealing the fuel intake hose where it connects to the tank and fuel sender thread which I am finally going to do.

Being a poly tank I know I should be using a non hardening sealant so is this the product I should be looking at or is there something else that is more applicable to what I need it for? Cheers

www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/permatex-permatex-form-a-gasket-sealant---no.-2---85g/114973.html

 Last week, came back from a few days in Perth and thought better bait up the pots before the 7.30 cut off.

So we whizzed home, hooked up the boat and raced to the ramp, arriving at 6.30

In we go and off, few people on the finger jetty fishing and we passed maybe 20 meters away.

As we were going out Cam says "I think that blokes caught something"

We get out and jerk the first pot and there nylon on the pot rope which Cam keeps pulling, and pulling, and fkn pulling...

"Where does the other end go?"

Must have taken his entire spool 

Luckily the line protection worked a treat.

He was gone when we got back in, I was going to pass his line back to him.

Just after some advice, I am re-doing my bearings at the moment and it was really hard to get the hub off. The back bear didnt come off with the hub and took some hitting with a punch and hammer to remove, the rear one was really tight. Last time I did them it came straight off, the only thing I can think off is I had the axle galvenised when I did a refurb on trailer last year. The part that the hub goes on was then machined back.

Just wondering what I should do? how tight should the bearings be on the axle?

 hello all

in the proccess of getting a motor installed on my boat, would be good to have a smaller oil reservioir 

as space is an issue, i have called around and mercury do not make anything smaller than a 10l tank

does anyone know of any aftermarket brands or another possible engine manufacture that has a smaller tank 

that would be compatible for a optimax??

might sound dumb, can you get a custom one built, aluminium maybe?

thanks in advance

travis

Hi all,

My boat is 15 years old now, and whilst he carpet on the floor has served me well, it's tired now and needs replacing.

I see there are some very nice options now...Seadek, Deck Armour etc.

I'm like most of us and use my boat hard...fishing, craying, abalone....gets a bit of a beating.

Am I better off sticking with marine carpet, or are these synthetic decks a good option for taking the knocks?

Does anyone has first hand experience with any of these types of products?

Comments or recommendations?

Cheers

my mechanic found the cause of that rumbling bearing..... :-)

Better to sort it now than mid summer I guess!, bearings all shot and hopefully no excessive wear on the shafts....

Hi everyone,

I have just joined up and have enjoyed the articles I have seen come up on google searches and thought I would share my new project and contribute and learn along the way. Should be fun!

I am onto my 4th boat, having had 3 bowriders, a Glasscraft, Caribbean and a Trailcraft. This will be the biggest rig and first cabin boat. I picked it up recently and have started some work on it, starting with a new floor.

Is anyone familiar with this old fibreglass hull? It has had some interesting things done like the cabin is all Ally! Inboard has been converted to outboard with a great pod. Has a fuel tank in the bow. It is registered as a Chivers, however I cannot match any images looking at the thunderbird, seamaster, safari, bahama etc. The cabin shape looks like it has been modelled off a Genesis or Baron. I also looked into the Formula family and can’t seem to find a match with Pacemakers. It has the old Guardian/Chivers blue paint in spots and I have checked in with some old salts who can’t pick it either. The strakes is what gets me, Baron would be the closest but I am yet to find a picture of a hull with such bulbous rounded strakes/spray rails. 

If if anyone has any info that would be awesome to know who built it and when 60’s or 70’s ?

Length is 6.5m plus the pod, beam is about 2.3m

HI All,

currently own a 2006 Trailcraft 660 Trailblazer, the dash/helm on the boat has very limited space to mount a new Sounder (Furuno FCV-588 or Simrad s2009) due to the angle set on the front windows.

Wondering if anyone with the same model has made any changes to their dash/helm area to fit anything bigger than a 9' unit?

currently i have a Elite9ti which squeezes in middle of the helm area, this would obviously be moved and used only really as a GPS if i was to upgrade.

my only worry is changing the dash myself would include a fair amount of work, one that i couldn't tackle myself.

ultimately would like to have the Sounder here the Elite9 bracket is located (photo below) and the Elite9 above the stearing wheel & gauges.

apprecaite any thoughts or comments/photos that others may have on changes to their dash due to limited space. 

Hi all
my winter refit is near complete on my CC - I have 2 deck hatches which I need to replace - starboard shown in the pic below, labelled cactus for good measure!
- they are recessed into the deck from factory - the company that made the hatches no longer exists and they are about to give way.
I was thinking of using starboard/kingboard to replace - previous owner (I assume) did the same thing for two rear hatches (bottom of photo)
the hatches are 590mm x 335mm - and about 8mm deep - the few starboard suppliers i have seen have pieces 1220x2440mm so if anyone has an idea of where I can source smaller pieces it would be greatly appreciated

cheers
Clint

Hey guys if you know any boats for sale that fit the subject criteria i would love to know about it :)

Cant be a run about as im 6'4 and the low steering kills me 

Let me know, cheers! 

removed