I have recently bought a second hand Cruisecraft 685, and given the boats age the VHF and stereo need replacing. The current setup has a VHF and 27MHz (both Navman) in the dash and a stereo (GME) on the side as you enter the cabin. The 27MHz doesn't work, and I haven't actually needed to use it, so I am thinking of getting rid of it completely. I could then move the stereo to the dash in the 27MHz hole, making access to the stereo easier. Do other people still use 27MHz, or do you think I should get rid of it?

In terms of VHF, I am considering the GME and the iCom. I have read that the iCom is a better unit, but its substantially more expensive (less so if I buy overseas though). The GME would be easier to install as it has a faceplate that fits around it to cover the hole from the old VHF, whereas I would have to mske something up for the iCom. So, is the iCom worth the extra money to buy and hassle to install, or should I just get the GME.

For the stereo, I am looking at the Fusion (MS-IP700) and the GME. Fusion have some great units which can operate an ipod, which is way more convenient than CDs. They are also a dedicated stereo company so they probably so it better. GME have a fairly new product out called GDEK which looks great. The GDEK has 2 components, a control unit which would mount in the dash where the old 27MHz is, and a second unit that holds an ipod/USB and the speakers and everything plug into. This would actually work quite well as I could mount the second unit in the location of the current stereo as thats where the speaker wires all currently go. Then I just need to run a wire up to the dash to the control unit, which is easier than running all the wires to the dash. I am concerned that GME stereos are not as good as Fusion, and the sound would be better/louder from the Fusion. 

So I am after everybodies opinion on stereos and radios.... do I need 27MHz? iCom or GME for the VHF? GME or Fusion for the stereo? Something else again? All opinions welcome

hi all just looking to get a few suggestions.

the anchor hatch bopens into the small cab and the anchor rope just sits in a box on the floor.

the problem i have is that when i get water over the bow it runs into the cab unless i completely remove the anchorfrom bow roller (sprit?) and bring it inboard.

i was thinking maybe a milkcrate tied to the bow rail and keep anchor rope there so it doesnt go thru the hatch but was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and how they dealt with it

Tiny

 Looking at modifying my 16 ft Phantom so I can access the anchor well from the deck through the console . Any good suggestions/pics ? 

 Hi lads,

After recent fishing trip, when I wash down the boat, I found some crack kind of like a knock from inside ( as the photo ). I got no idea what had happen there. Can anyone let me know what causes that? Would that affect the function of the outboard?

Thanks in advance. Cheers

Ken

Hi All,

Did this Suspension seat Modification about 2 1/2 years ago and still going without any problems or rusting on any of the shafts.

Basically takes an office Seat mechanism to be incorporates it into a boat seat, where the pedestal goes.

You can buy specifically made ones to do the job online, but found all the ones were too high for my application so decided to just reverse engineer an office chair to work in a boat.

Did a little sketch of how i did it, so if it save you back on a bad wave i reckon its worth it. (father in law doesn't whinge as much now when you hit a good wave)

I was able to pick up a few old office chairs from a local 2nd hand office furniture shop, who leaves all the stuff on the kerb they hope to go missing instead of binning it.

Only had to buy 2 new bases, cause the old ones wouldn't want to come out, sikaflex, screws and bolts, which came to less than $100.

The most time consuming part was to machice down the old chair base thatwas made of plastic. Did it old school, started with a grinder cutting disc, then a bastard file to get a almost perfect fit so as the sikaflex takes up any last inperfection, locking the plastic sleve cutdown from the base into place.

I reckon having a comfortable seat makes boating so much mure pleasurable, which = more fishing.

Last Pics are of the old Pedestals when i took them out, and are also availble for sale for a good offer.

 Looking seriously about picking up a 2008 6.2m stacer with 4ml sides and 5m bottom. 

I've done some research on the ocean runner and stacer and found they are pressed. 

I've  always thought plate was considered any material over 4ml and have always thought of pressed being a more light weight thinner material and perhaps not as strong?  I intend on using the boat for a bit of everything including off shore fishing so would like to know if these hulls are up to it. Yes I know the ride of allys are crap though my other option being  trailcraft is most probably worse.  Weight of the stacer hull I believe was somewhere between 650/700kg same as trailcraft 

Any info would be great 

 Has anyone thought of using one of those car reversing cameras as an underwater camera on a boat? Haha

Apparently most of the cameras are waterproof so I'm thinking of maybe installing the camera as a "transducer" to show you real images of what's under the boat, on the included screen. There are kits for less than $100.

Hmm, maybe I'll be the guinea pig for fellow members! Haha

Hi - I currently own a Bluefin Wrangler 475 which is rated to an 80 hp. I purchased it new in 2009 with a 60 hp yammie. The boat really feels it when loaded up and travelling against a big tide or river flow. Now I am considering putting a 80 hp motor on the back . I am a bit hesitant as it is costly and I am unsure how much more available power I will have. For the money I could most likely buy a really good second hand boat that will suit my needs better if I sell my current set up.

Does anyone own a Bluefin 475 with an 80 hp 4 stroke? It would be great to know what speeds etc. people are getting, I would like to cruise at around 50 km at under 5000rpm.

Thanks

 Hi all ,

I've recently been looking at purchasing a old W.A made boat (penguin phantom). Can't find much info about the boats on the net .Does anyone have one or any further info or photos .

Chasing some advice on intermittent electrical fault on my Evinrude Oceanpro (2 Stroke) 200hp outboard.

Headed out today at 6am. Started normally with no problems and durning the 40 min run out - nothing suspicious. Stopped at first spot and started drift. Went to start to move for second drift and nothing - not even a click or whine. Radios, etc all powered up. Engine gauges all powered on and beep ok when key turned on. Checked throttle out of gear, battery terminals, changed batteries but still nothing. Checked under the cover but nothing obvious. After about another 6 attempts decided to call Sea Rescue for assistance. After about 30mins towing (1.5hrs since problem first found) attempted to start motor and off she roared. Stopped and started about a dozen times since and starts every time.

Obviously an electrical problem before the starter motor. Any sparks or outboard mechanics got any suggestions where I should start looking? Thanks in advance.

 Hi Guys,

I have a 1996 25hp Mercury 2 stroke that has been sitting in the shed for a few years and got it running today easy enough. I am going to have a crack at servicing it myself given the $$ that can be saved and i think its a good idea to know the outboard a bit better. I am able to source most parts required (ie. spark plugs, gear oil, fuel filter etc) however does anyone know if you are able to buy a 'service kit' that includes fuel pump gaskets, diaphram kit, fuel filter assembly etc to save time sourcing each part number?

I will call a few Mercury dealers tomorow and ask the question however given a few members on this site service their own outboards im curious as to how you source parts for them.

 Hi guys.

Am about to change propellers on my outboard and thinking of greasing the propeller shaft with Lubrimatic Marine Grease. Has anyone used the product with their propeller shaft? Also, how often would you re-grease the shaft?

 just a tad excited as iam placing a order for a suzuki 90hp on monday, just sold my faithful old girl 90hp 2 stroke merc lastnight.

anyone had any work done by all boats in kingsley, so far they have been real good. plenty of advice and willing to chat. 

only problem but hardley a problem is suzuki has intergrated there hour meter into the tacho, leaving me with a hole to fill in the dash, i see they have a volt meter that i could put in its place anyone use these.

like a kid in a lolly shop

cheers

stripped the motor of lastnight gauges and control arm

goodbye old girl

 Hi everyone

Looking at getting a seaquest tournament plate ally boat but can't find a whole lot of info on them,  is there anyone out there who has one or knows how they ride?  Any Info would be Great,  thanks 

 HI Guys

Just chasing a bit of advice on a couple of issues before I get my trailer inspected. I have a Carribbean Reef Runner and a couple of weeks ago I was trying to work out what it weighed on the trailer. In the end I had it weighed and it came in at 2.25t all up full of fuel (225L) and the ususal crap that I carry. The Dunbier trailer it sits on is in pretty good nick but only rated for 2t. 

I decided to upgrade the trailer so with a little help from the guys at Martins I have installed new springs and discs brakes. I bought a Hydrstar actuator a hydraline brake line kit which meant I didn't have to make up my own lines which was a bonus.

I have two issues though, I have been told you cant use plastic cable ties to secure brake lines to the axles. This means either using stainless steel ties, hose clamps, drilling into the axle to mount brackets, welding tags or something else. Having said that I have had a look at a heap of trailers in the last couple of weeks to check setups and I reckon the majority are using plastic ties to secure the lines to axles including brand new trailers on display in a couple of yards. I am going to give it ago and see what happens;

the other issue is the actuator install. The ones that I have seen all seem to have the brake fluid output value to the front of the trailer and the cabling to the rear. I cant find any info to suggest they cant be turned around I just havent seen anyone who has done it. The install instructions just say find a flat spot in a convenient position to run wires. They also say to avoid unnecessary bends in the brake lines and keep the distance as short as possible. I would have thought having the output at the back facing the brakes would have meet that criteria rather than the other way around. Does anyone know of any drop dead reason I shouldnt mount with the cabling at the front and the brake output at the back.

Thanks for any help.

Mick

 Hi I'm chasing some marine ply to make a flat platform in my dingy the sizes are 

580x950

and 720 one end 950 the other end and it's by 730 sort of a v shape.

Another question what glue should I use? And also should I put marine carpet ontop of it?

 On a a couple of recent trips in my boat, on the way back in I have noticed one of my Smart gauges coming up showing Check Pitot. It has cleared itself later on but I have looked through my manuals but although they mention Pitot there is nothing else to tell me where to find it in order to check it. Can anyone tell me where to look? And also why it might be coming on? I am presuming that something is blocking it but until I know where to look there is not much I can do.

Cheers

 Doing some research on Yalta Craft boats, looking to buy at the end of year. 

Finding a lot of positive comments although I havnt been on one yet.

Can any members pass me on any comments, positive or negative through experiences. 

Thanks 

godders 

 G'day all - would anyone have a transom bracket to fit a 90's Johnson 25hp? I bought a 25 on spec to replace my 35 Evinrude and they had cut the 2 locking bolts to get it off the boat. Of course I tried to drill them out and stuffed the bracket assembled completely. It is exactly the same bracket as my 35 Evinrude which I am a bit wary of scrapping just yet.

 Hi Guys

Just thought id throw up some pictures and the story of my new boat, its my second boat with the first one being a 17ft - 2007 Revival Cuddy Cab with a 115 Mercury 2 stroke, Great boat for all purposes but due to a new house build and a few unexpected variations had to sell and down size in budget, wasn’t too keen on using a boat yard but in the end was contacted by Joondalup Boat shack, done a quick search on here...seen good reports so gave Rod a go. Very straight forward guy with excellent custom service, I was happy with the sale.

So after sorting a new budget with the fun police I spent the next four months searching for a new boat, $10,000 - $12,000 made life hard after having a boat in excellent condition with all the extras, was looking at Baron, Pacemaker & Swift Craft when they popped up in that price range around the same size. After scrolling past this one several times decided to take a look as it was a bit cheaper and bigger, now iv done a little reading but by no means know a lot about fiber glass or out board motors, I guess after looking at 10 to 20 boats in a Variety of conditions in the last 4 months I started to get a feel for what’s got issues and whats got issues.

So after no sea trial or compression check I bought it, don’t know how these hulls handle or review. The owner and his son came across very straight and being keen fisho's with a new model along side I had faith it had been looked after...plus they stated it had been in the family for the last 3 decades with the motor being on the boat for the last 4 years, this was purchased from a forum member so after a PM I was confident it had had been in reasonable care. Don’t know the year of the hull but would guess late 70's early 80's..It’s a 19 ft Guardian with a 1995 2 stroke 115 Johnson on board with 90lts of fuel capacity, trailer is 1979. Little more deck space than me old one, with a cabin like my last but this time with a hard top. Beside some gel coat cracking and a little peeling in the cabin area everything seemed solid with no major visible repairs or replacements. Straight up it needed money spent on safety gear to get on the water but I took that into consideration.

Once home I stripped the carpet and inside cabin to have a good look over and clean. 

First up i replaced the cabin cushions through foam sales in Myaree, Simon was great giving excellent service and price, this was the wife’s request to keep the kids happy during the Sunday arvo river cruise’s, cabin ply was given a quick sand and a coat of clear vanish. After that and budget in mind I had to keep the lowrance Elite 5 and radio that came separate, but installed a new Furuno 587 fish finder with a 600W tranny to get me on my way. Epird, Jackets, Flares and bilge pump were purchase. Fitted these and checked nav lights etc for working order.

The motor hadn’t had a service for a while and giving its age and the fact I like to get out past the 50’s I thought id give it a once over myself, spark plugs were looking a little average so they got replaced, water pump, thermos and fuel filter also got changed out. The water pump was first, dropping the leg and doing the change out did have me worried, after searching online for parts was glad I went through Chivers, very little price difference with this gear plus the service and advice was so much appreciated, with the manual and most stuff online now days I got it sorted after a few nervous moments, looking back it wasn’t to difficult and am glad I’ve done it.

Was going to give the thermos a miss, but again after speaking to the guys at Chivers, a hundred plus dollars was a small price to pay especially if intending to head out a few miles. Getting these out was the most time consuming thing ever!! Until re fitting the new ones came around. My model on paper shows to be the worse of all models with 2 sets of hands required, so glad I did these though as they were almost non existence. I always thought outboard motors were expensive to service after the first boat, even with experience I believe outboards would have to be one of the most time consuming thing’s I’ve ever worked on. 

Well that’s it so far, the motors running sweat, still looking forward to the first run on the water to clean the carbon out…hope it floats!! Still plenty to do, a good cut en polish wouldn’t hurt but I’m not worried about appearance atm, trailer breaks also need a refit so transits require care. If I do like it more than I think ill give spending big dollar’s on a new tub a miss and give this hull a true refit next winter. Not sure if ive done the right thing here, but was super keen to get back on the water. I have faith in these older builds and this worked out well under budget.

Thanks for reading, any comments appreciated.

Brock 

Purchased a poly boat today with good trailer for an absolute steal, the trailer is A1 the boat on the other hand has some substantial issue with the hull, the floor has a major bow in it. Just wondering if anyone has had the same issues and how they fixed it.

I was thinking of either filling it with hot water and applying some heat with a heat gun to the other side or bringing it to the powder coaters and sticking in their oven to get it to temp then applying even pressure. Not sure what temp I would have to heat it too though.

any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 Hi Guys,

So i pulled the floor of my bayhunter this morning chasing a fuel smell and i've pulled off all the lines and filler hose.

I'm replacing all of these as the clear plastic fuel and breather lines are rock hard. There was also a split on the outside layer of the filler hose so thats getting replaced also.

Question i wanted to ask is, the non barbed take offs where the breather lines and filer hose connect to the tank seemed to have some marone/red sealant on them as well as the hose clamps.

Does anyone know what this is and if its necessary?

I had planned to double hose clamp all the connections.

Also the one barbed fitting which had the main fuel line take coming from had the sealant on it also. I didn't think this would be necessary on a barbed fitting with a hose clamp but was hoping if anyone knew any different?

Thanks in advance

Steve 

For those that don't have a battery meter on their boat console, this little device will come handy. Recently installed 2 on my boat (have 3 batteties). It costs about $10 and I reckon, a very worthwhile accessory. I simply cut the ends off and wired them directly to the isolators.

When the engine is off, it measures the battery output. When the engine is on, it measures the alternator output making sure the batteries are getting charged.

Hope it helps some members.

Anyone know any options for 17ft fibreglass centre consoles?

Only one I've really seen is the Haines Prowler 525 which looks like a beast of a boat set up with a 115 four stroke. Pretty much ticks all the boxes.

Any others to consider?

I love the Suzis on my boat, reliable smooth quiet despite pushing up to 600hrs. Ive serviced them religeously and checked compresssions etc.

But a couple of months ago while googling some service info for my pair of DF115's, I was pretty suprised to come across this

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/395845-suzuki-df140-engine-holder-corrosion-fix.html

and ALOT of other similar threads from both US and Aus. I hadnt heard about this before and was pretty suprised, but given the sort of use my boat gets (remote long trips with the kids etc) and being an engineer I decided to bit the bullet and have a look.

NOTE-the pics below that have a corrosion hole were borrowed off another website-the repair ones are mine.

Mine had plenty of meat there in both engines

Basically Suzuki designed the DF90/115/140 to have an O2 sensor fitted in the exhaust/engine holder casting but must have decided at the time it wasnt required. The hole was removed completely from these outboards around 2007 so is only an issue up to that date.

Interestingly the new "Lean Burn" Suzukis, is really just the addition of an O2 sensor (experts correct if Im wrong!)

One of the rare less smart Japs at the factory then decided to use up the seacontainer load of mild steel plugs to fill the hole.

The combination of hot exhaust gases, salt water and galvanic reaction then proceeds to corrode away the engine holder until it blows thru and burns the wiring loom which runs past that point. This brings up a 3:2 alarm code

I believe a faulty thermostat (causing cold combustion) increases the acidity of the exhaust gases also.

Anyhow, I found a mob in the US who makes aluminium plugs specifically to replace these and at about $15 each plus $10 post they were on my doorstep in 10 days.

I also ordered magnetic drain plugs for the gearboxes (should be standard in any machinery).

Couple of days back my flights to work were delayed for a day so I thought f++k it, lets do it.

Stb engine first, covers off, 8mm allen key socket-FK, no go. Loaded it til hex was buggered.

Opened port covers, same thing, but it came loose when forced to the limit. With some trepidation I looked in and was glad to see plenty of meat there.

Fitted the Goldplug then went back to the stb.

Out with the welder, and welded a bolt onto the plug.

It took a fair bit of force (18" bar) but came loose, quick internal inspection (phew all good in there) and fit the Goldplug

If the hole blows thru, a new engine holder is about $US1K plus about 6 hrs installation or it is possible to weld up the hole as quite a few have done but Im happy to have caught mine early sorted it.

When I get home in a month I'll have to take it for a test run to the islands 

hi all just purchased a little boat and im wondering how much to mix the fuel

its a 15hp Johnson model number is J15RECR 97 Johnson

was thinking 50:1

Hi Team,

I need to replace my rusty old trailer and found this on Gumtree, I have a 5.7m f/g half cab, old and very heavy.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/osborne-park/boat-accessories-parts/aluminium-boat-trailer-to-suit-fibreglass-boats-up-to-20ft/1040753604

Seabreeze Boating is the dealer, but haven't heard much about this mob let alone trailers they sell. Has anyone experienced or know anything about these trialers? They seem to be priced reasonably, they also sell a galv model.

Thanks for your assistance.

I have put my Evinrude Elan 35hp outboard into Bosun Marine in Dunsborough for a service. They tell me the power pack has gone and it's $600 for a new one. A bit dear for an older motor - any suggestions on a fix or where to source a second hand unit?

http://www.perthnow.com.au/news/breaking-news/search-for-missing-fisherman-off-wa/story-fnhrvfuw-1226989475095

 Hi guys

Just bought a secondhand Delkor MF200 battery on gumtree for a cheap $60!  It is in good condition (green colour in hydrometer).  There is no description as to whether it is a deep cycle or not, previous owner doesn't know.  The description on the battery is as follows:

Maintenance free

200AH @ 20ah rate

Reserve 430amps

CCA 1000 amps

Can someone shed some light as to whether the battery is deep cycle/hybrid?  Google didnt return any useful info..

Thanks

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