A quick question regarding an Anderson plug for power supply to the electric boat trailer winch.

Winch is a Powerwinch 912, boat is a 6.7 metre ally centre cab weighing around 2 tonne.

Would the 50 amp Anderson plug be adequate, or would something bigger be required ?

The next size up that I have seen is 120 amp, is there anything available between 50 and 120amp?

Thanks in advance,

The Saint

 Hi guys

just put a new yamaha F115A on the back of my ocean whaler, when the dealer sea trialed it to find the right pitch prop they ended up settling for a 17 pitch but said the ultimate would be an 18 pitch if that size was made. 

My question is what are the benefits if any of firstly a stainless steel prop and secondly 3 or 4 blade. 

The motor is currently doing about 5700-5800 rpm wide open throttle. 

Any input would be appreciated. 

 Time has finally come for a new boat

After months of looking and finally getting the missus somewhat keen

We finally found a boat that ticked all our required boxes, Searider 5.5 mtr

While I am at it I just want to say that Chris at Allboats was great to deal with, in fact so were Maz , Damian and Bridget

My wife is a legend , all she asked for was a transom door and the boat could not be red

Looking forwards to some great fishing moments coming up

Any chance that the previous owner is a member here ?

Katman

Hi guys,

I have a Haines Signature 550c and have a space where a 45L fresh water tank can be housed. I am keen in putting in a fresh water deck wash/shower and have the room at the back of the boat to mount the pump and the curly hose and trigger sprayer will fit towards the back of a side pocket.

Originally I was just going to run a smallish pump with fresh water but it wouldn't be very hard to put a 2-way valve in and switch inputs between fresh and sea water. The Jabsco Parmax 4 kit looks good and is recommended by a lot of people but seeing it can pump somewhere between 15-20L/min, would empty my tank very quickly.

Has anyone used the smaller Jabsco parmax 3 which pumps closer to 13L/min.
Or even the little Jabsco parmax 1 which is only 4.2L/min?

I don't really needs heaps of flow, or pressure. Its more so I can use it as a general deck wash when fishing and fresh water wash/shower after wakeboarding and diving etc.

Thanks,
Dale

 So my boat that got stolen last night was found in Ellen Brooke. The guy who stole it used his own number plate to put on the trailer and the car plate reported belongs to him aswell and neither were stolen so he is going to get a good knock on the door from the cops. Wish I got his address because I'd love to pay him a visit. They stole literally everything from the boat most of which is custom to it and won't fit other boats with out serious alterations this is what is left

Looking at Suzuki and whether to wait for the new 200HP 4cyl they have just announced (expected later this year) or get their 225HP V6.

http://www.suzukimarine.com/News/2014/01/Suzuki%20indroduces%20a%20New%20200%20HP%20Four%20Cylinder%20Four%20Stroke%20Outboard%20Motor.aspx

Boat currently has a 225HP Suzuki 4 stroke (2004 model) and we are looking at something newer mainly for trips to the Monties etc. Currently does ~41knts flat out and ~27knts at 4100rpm when calm.

Not many figures for fuel yet for the new Suzuki but comparing the Yammie 200HP 4cyl versus V6 it looks like quite noticeable fuel savings could be had.

http://yamahaoutboards.com/sites/default/files/bulletins/ALM_Trophy195LT_F200XB_2013-04-30_ALM.pdf
http://yamahaoutboards.com/sites/default/files/bulletins/ALM_Trophy195Limited_F200XA_2012-07-02_ALM.pdf

RPM MPG V6 MPG 4cyl Improvement
1000 4.46 6.86 53.81%
1500 3.72 5.08 36.56%
2000 2.69 3.71 37.92%
2500 3.1 4.64 49.68%
3000 5.11 5.6 9.59%
3500 4.97 5.41 8.85%
4000 4.05 4.43 9.38%
4500 3.56 4.12 15.73%
5000 3.04 3.29 8.22%
5500 2.72 2.79 2.57%
5900 2.79 2.8 0.36%

Comparing the Suzuki 200 V6 vs Suzuki 175hp Lean Burn

http://www.suzukimarine.com/Product%20Lines/Outboard%20Motors/Products/DF175/2012/~/media/Marine/BoatBuilders/TestResults/B/Blue%20Wave%20Boats/Blue%20Wave%202000A%20Pure%20Bay%20DF175TX
http://www.suzukimarine.com/Product%20Lines/Outboard%20Motors/Products/DF200/2012/~/media/Marine/BoatBuilders/TestResults/B/Blue%20Wave%20Boats/Blue%20Wave%202000A%20Pure%20Bay%20DF200TX

RPM MPG 200hp V6 MPG 175hp 4cyl Improvement
1000 4.89 6.67 36.40%
1500 3.33 5.09 52.85%
2000 2.3 3.33 44.78%
2500 1.64 2.19 33.54%
3000 5.06 5.97 17.98%
3500 5.16 6.23 20.74%
4000 5.17 5.86 13.35%
4500 4.48 5.17 15.40%
5000 4.22 4.7 11.37%
5500 3.7 4.13 11.62%
5900 3.39 3.48 2.65%

Leaning towards the new 200HP 4cyl Suzuki, what do you think? We will miss the extra power of the 225hp V6 Suzuki we currently have?

Started out as a rewire a few weeks ago and now have internal stripped out and 350chev about to be removed and install an OB and paint job on internal.

Researched this and stuck on final choice on whether to install a pod or notch the transom to make a well WITH hydraulic jacking plate on the Berty.

Appreciate any comments/experience from anyone who has gone down this path. Notching transom keeps the look of boat but performance wise the pod might be better. 

Looking at a 225HP YAMMIE 4stroke on back.

Hi Guys its a 31 degree Winter's day here in Karratha.

I'm a Newbie to posting so please accept my apology in advance, searched the forum's but got weird results - like my search item inserted in all random posts?

Just picked up a Leeder 710 Deluxe '96 model Carby 5.7L Alpha One leg.

Can you tag me in existing site posts that discuss solutions to:

1. Mystery electrical fault that sees the engine running fine then (550 genuine hrs) stop randomly but will restart almost straight away?

1b. Service intervals must do vs can do.

2. Leeder specific prop/pitch/blade# thread for the Alpha One leg.

3. Leeder tips and tricks for weekly running.

Thanks guys much appreciated.

 Looking for comments good or bad for who services Mercury Outboards SOR as mine needs its 500 hour service, the first since I bought it. I used to use Saltwater Marine but they no longer service outboards. Cheers.

Just wondering where do you service your boat annually . I have a old honda and live in north of the river. Any suggestion ?

mobile or shop doesn't really matter as long as honest. The place that I  normally go doesn't service any Honda outboard anymore

Thanks Guyss.

I recently installed a Lowrance VHF hooked up to a new 2.4m Pacific aerial. When I was in Coral Bay the performance of this unit was so bad I thought that the install must of been bad. I checked all connections and they looked good. I could pick up sea rescue loud and clear when departing the ramp but by the time I got to the North passage it was breaking up badly and once outside nothing. Boat to boat I reckon the range was no more than 3km max.

I can't believe that a new radio could be that piss-weak. Could anything else be affecting the TX/RX ability or should it just be deep-sixed and replaced with better quality ?

cheers

Hi all,

I am attempting to repair some very small corrosion holes along either side of the keel line on a pressed-aluminium Savage Lancer 530.

Unfortunately, welding spits & crackles have resulted in uncovering a very strange design (to me) aspect of this vessel.

To explain…  the hull is composed largely of a single-skin pressed aluminium sheeting. iIn this pressing are strakes run along either side of the keel, approximately 125mm either side of the keel line.  Nothing out of the ordinary so far.

However, what’s strange to me is that on the inside of the hull is a separate sheet of aluminium which is welded to the keel line, but folded ‘down’ into the inner edge of the first strake; the first strakes being those parallel nd either side of the keel line.  That is, the hull is ‘double skinned’ between the keel line and the first strake, except it’s welded along only the keel line.

The distance between the aluminium sheets is only a few millimetres, say 4mm.

The problem I have is that the design has permitted a perfect location for wet sand to accumulate between the aluminium layers making a repair almost impossible except (I suggest) by removing all the floor stringers (frames), cutting away the ‘false’ inside layer, cleaning and re-welding. Basically rebuilding the whole boat.

I would appreciate any thoughts on this, such as:

1.   Has anybody come across this issue, and have they managed to solve it?

-          2. Does anybody have any idea why a narrow (125mm) sheet would be placed in such as manner? If it was intended to be structural, why weld it only to the keel line & not seal it ? My arguement is that structural integrity relies on metal not corroding, yet this design creates a terrific environment for corrosion.

-          3. Suggestions on ways to fix?

In my opinion, if I wanted the bottom of a boat to corrode away as quickly as possible and make it impossible to repair, I would have designed it in this manner!

Attached some photos to explain issue.

Many thanks in anticipation

Patch

 I have recently bought a second hand Cruisecraft 685, and given the boats age the VHF and stereo need replacing. The current setup has a VHF and 27MHz (both Navman) in the dash and a stereo (GME) on the side as you enter the cabin. The 27MHz doesn't work, and I haven't actually needed to use it, so I am thinking of getting rid of it completely. I could then move the stereo to the dash in the 27MHz hole, making access to the stereo easier. Do other people still use 27MHz, or do you think I should get rid of it?

In terms of VHF, I am considering the GME and the iCom. I have read that the iCom is a better unit, but its substantially more expensive (less so if I buy overseas though). The GME would be easier to install as it has a faceplate that fits around it to cover the hole from the old VHF, whereas I would have to mske something up for the iCom. So, is the iCom worth the extra money to buy and hassle to install, or should I just get the GME.

For the stereo, I am looking at the Fusion (MS-IP700) and the GME. Fusion have some great units which can operate an ipod, which is way more convenient than CDs. They are also a dedicated stereo company so they probably so it better. GME have a fairly new product out called GDEK which looks great. The GDEK has 2 components, a control unit which would mount in the dash where the old 27MHz is, and a second unit that holds an ipod/USB and the speakers and everything plug into. This would actually work quite well as I could mount the second unit in the location of the current stereo as thats where the speaker wires all currently go. Then I just need to run a wire up to the dash to the control unit, which is easier than running all the wires to the dash. I am concerned that GME stereos are not as good as Fusion, and the sound would be better/louder from the Fusion. 

So I am after everybodies opinion on stereos and radios.... do I need 27MHz? iCom or GME for the VHF? GME or Fusion for the stereo? Something else again? All opinions welcome

hi all just looking to get a few suggestions.

the anchor hatch bopens into the small cab and the anchor rope just sits in a box on the floor.

the problem i have is that when i get water over the bow it runs into the cab unless i completely remove the anchorfrom bow roller (sprit?) and bring it inboard.

i was thinking maybe a milkcrate tied to the bow rail and keep anchor rope there so it doesnt go thru the hatch but was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and how they dealt with it

Tiny

 Looking at modifying my 16 ft Phantom so I can access the anchor well from the deck through the console . Any good suggestions/pics ? 

 Hi lads,

After recent fishing trip, when I wash down the boat, I found some crack kind of like a knock from inside ( as the photo ). I got no idea what had happen there. Can anyone let me know what causes that? Would that affect the function of the outboard?

Thanks in advance. Cheers

Ken

Hi All,

Did this Suspension seat Modification about 2 1/2 years ago and still going without any problems or rusting on any of the shafts.

Basically takes an office Seat mechanism to be incorporates it into a boat seat, where the pedestal goes.

You can buy specifically made ones to do the job online, but found all the ones were too high for my application so decided to just reverse engineer an office chair to work in a boat.

Did a little sketch of how i did it, so if it save you back on a bad wave i reckon its worth it. (father in law doesn't whinge as much now when you hit a good wave)

I was able to pick up a few old office chairs from a local 2nd hand office furniture shop, who leaves all the stuff on the kerb they hope to go missing instead of binning it.

Only had to buy 2 new bases, cause the old ones wouldn't want to come out, sikaflex, screws and bolts, which came to less than $100.

The most time consuming part was to machice down the old chair base thatwas made of plastic. Did it old school, started with a grinder cutting disc, then a bastard file to get a almost perfect fit so as the sikaflex takes up any last inperfection, locking the plastic sleve cutdown from the base into place.

I reckon having a comfortable seat makes boating so much mure pleasurable, which = more fishing.

Last Pics are of the old Pedestals when i took them out, and are also availble for sale for a good offer.

 Looking seriously about picking up a 2008 6.2m stacer with 4ml sides and 5m bottom. 

I've done some research on the ocean runner and stacer and found they are pressed. 

I've  always thought plate was considered any material over 4ml and have always thought of pressed being a more light weight thinner material and perhaps not as strong?  I intend on using the boat for a bit of everything including off shore fishing so would like to know if these hulls are up to it. Yes I know the ride of allys are crap though my other option being  trailcraft is most probably worse.  Weight of the stacer hull I believe was somewhere between 650/700kg same as trailcraft 

Any info would be great 

 Has anyone thought of using one of those car reversing cameras as an underwater camera on a boat? Haha

Apparently most of the cameras are waterproof so I'm thinking of maybe installing the camera as a "transducer" to show you real images of what's under the boat, on the included screen. There are kits for less than $100.

Hmm, maybe I'll be the guinea pig for fellow members! Haha

Hi - I currently own a Bluefin Wrangler 475 which is rated to an 80 hp. I purchased it new in 2009 with a 60 hp yammie. The boat really feels it when loaded up and travelling against a big tide or river flow. Now I am considering putting a 80 hp motor on the back . I am a bit hesitant as it is costly and I am unsure how much more available power I will have. For the money I could most likely buy a really good second hand boat that will suit my needs better if I sell my current set up.

Does anyone own a Bluefin 475 with an 80 hp 4 stroke? It would be great to know what speeds etc. people are getting, I would like to cruise at around 50 km at under 5000rpm.

Thanks

 Hi all ,

I've recently been looking at purchasing a old W.A made boat (penguin phantom). Can't find much info about the boats on the net .Does anyone have one or any further info or photos .

Chasing some advice on intermittent electrical fault on my Evinrude Oceanpro (2 Stroke) 200hp outboard.

Headed out today at 6am. Started normally with no problems and durning the 40 min run out - nothing suspicious. Stopped at first spot and started drift. Went to start to move for second drift and nothing - not even a click or whine. Radios, etc all powered up. Engine gauges all powered on and beep ok when key turned on. Checked throttle out of gear, battery terminals, changed batteries but still nothing. Checked under the cover but nothing obvious. After about another 6 attempts decided to call Sea Rescue for assistance. After about 30mins towing (1.5hrs since problem first found) attempted to start motor and off she roared. Stopped and started about a dozen times since and starts every time.

Obviously an electrical problem before the starter motor. Any sparks or outboard mechanics got any suggestions where I should start looking? Thanks in advance.

 Hi Guys,

I have a 1996 25hp Mercury 2 stroke that has been sitting in the shed for a few years and got it running today easy enough. I am going to have a crack at servicing it myself given the $$ that can be saved and i think its a good idea to know the outboard a bit better. I am able to source most parts required (ie. spark plugs, gear oil, fuel filter etc) however does anyone know if you are able to buy a 'service kit' that includes fuel pump gaskets, diaphram kit, fuel filter assembly etc to save time sourcing each part number?

I will call a few Mercury dealers tomorow and ask the question however given a few members on this site service their own outboards im curious as to how you source parts for them.

 Hi guys.

Am about to change propellers on my outboard and thinking of greasing the propeller shaft with Lubrimatic Marine Grease. Has anyone used the product with their propeller shaft? Also, how often would you re-grease the shaft?

 just a tad excited as iam placing a order for a suzuki 90hp on monday, just sold my faithful old girl 90hp 2 stroke merc lastnight.

anyone had any work done by all boats in kingsley, so far they have been real good. plenty of advice and willing to chat. 

only problem but hardley a problem is suzuki has intergrated there hour meter into the tacho, leaving me with a hole to fill in the dash, i see they have a volt meter that i could put in its place anyone use these.

like a kid in a lolly shop

cheers

stripped the motor of lastnight gauges and control arm

goodbye old girl

 Hi everyone

Looking at getting a seaquest tournament plate ally boat but can't find a whole lot of info on them,  is there anyone out there who has one or knows how they ride?  Any Info would be Great,  thanks 

 HI Guys

Just chasing a bit of advice on a couple of issues before I get my trailer inspected. I have a Carribbean Reef Runner and a couple of weeks ago I was trying to work out what it weighed on the trailer. In the end I had it weighed and it came in at 2.25t all up full of fuel (225L) and the ususal crap that I carry. The Dunbier trailer it sits on is in pretty good nick but only rated for 2t. 

I decided to upgrade the trailer so with a little help from the guys at Martins I have installed new springs and discs brakes. I bought a Hydrstar actuator a hydraline brake line kit which meant I didn't have to make up my own lines which was a bonus.

I have two issues though, I have been told you cant use plastic cable ties to secure brake lines to the axles. This means either using stainless steel ties, hose clamps, drilling into the axle to mount brackets, welding tags or something else. Having said that I have had a look at a heap of trailers in the last couple of weeks to check setups and I reckon the majority are using plastic ties to secure the lines to axles including brand new trailers on display in a couple of yards. I am going to give it ago and see what happens;

the other issue is the actuator install. The ones that I have seen all seem to have the brake fluid output value to the front of the trailer and the cabling to the rear. I cant find any info to suggest they cant be turned around I just havent seen anyone who has done it. The install instructions just say find a flat spot in a convenient position to run wires. They also say to avoid unnecessary bends in the brake lines and keep the distance as short as possible. I would have thought having the output at the back facing the brakes would have meet that criteria rather than the other way around. Does anyone know of any drop dead reason I shouldnt mount with the cabling at the front and the brake output at the back.

Thanks for any help.

Mick

 Hi I'm chasing some marine ply to make a flat platform in my dingy the sizes are 

580x950

and 720 one end 950 the other end and it's by 730 sort of a v shape.

Another question what glue should I use? And also should I put marine carpet ontop of it?

 On a a couple of recent trips in my boat, on the way back in I have noticed one of my Smart gauges coming up showing Check Pitot. It has cleared itself later on but I have looked through my manuals but although they mention Pitot there is nothing else to tell me where to find it in order to check it. Can anyone tell me where to look? And also why it might be coming on? I am presuming that something is blocking it but until I know where to look there is not much I can do.

Cheers

 Doing some research on Yalta Craft boats, looking to buy at the end of year. 

Finding a lot of positive comments although I havnt been on one yet.

Can any members pass me on any comments, positive or negative through experiences. 

Thanks 

godders